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10-20-2009, 09:42 PM
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#1
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Winnebago Watcher
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 4
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Coach blower
I have an '02 Adventurer 32V that the coach blower has gone south in. I have a very good idea where it is located and how to get to it. My problem is, I believe the motor has to be replaced. It only works on high. So I'm assuming that it is shot. Where does one get this fan motor, what is a part number for it? I am also assuming that for a big man, 6' 5" and 300# needs to remove the water heater first.
Need to get this fixed fast. Other half says it has to be fixed before we travel this winter.
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10-20-2009, 10:21 PM
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#2
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 358
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I don't believe it is a defective blower. There is a resistor mounted in the blower housing that is inserted for speeds other than high fan speed setting. It is a common part to go bad.
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Harry
2015 Tuscany 40 KQ
2013 Honda CR-V
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10-21-2009, 12:59 AM
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#3
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBChief
I have an '02 Adventurer 32V that the coach blower has gone south in. I have a very good idea where it is located and how to get to it. My problem is, I believe the motor has to be replaced. It only works on high. So I'm assuming that it is shot. Where does one get this fan motor, what is a part number for it? I am also assuming that for a big man, 6' 5" and 300# needs to remove the water heater first.
Need to get this fixed fast. Other half says it has to be fixed before we travel this winter.
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are you talking about the "coach heater" that is controlled by a low and high speed switch on the dash?
if so, check in the archives of this forum for a fix.
the usual problem is that the fan blower migrates enough on its shaft to hit the housing, making noise on high speed. on low speed mine would just blow the fuse which is also the fuse for the back up monitor.
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01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks, toad '14 smart car
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10-21-2009, 01:17 AM
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#4
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Antioch CA
Posts: 79
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as Dan L has mentioned Look at the archieve for this fix. I had to do this fix to mine when I first got my 2003 Suncruiser 33V. It ended up being the resistor that is located on the front fire wall on the passenger side. I got the part at Napa auto. You should be able to find the exact posting it even has a picture attached.
Do a search for "resistor" and you'll find a posting for this fix on a post on 1/9/07 it erven gives the part #
__________________
2003 Itasca Suncruiser 33V
8.1 GMC, Workhorse, Allison, Koni's
2004 Honda Element toad
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10-21-2009, 10:46 AM
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#5
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Draper, UT
Posts: 309
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Hi Ho: You say it won't work on low speed, but does it make an unusual noise on high speed? If so, then you do have to take the motor out and either fix it or replace it. Lots of info on this website about doing that.
Dirk
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02-08-2010, 10:28 AM
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#6
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12
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Can't find fuse.......
Hello Dan or anyone else who can help me.... I have an 03 Winnebago 35u on W22 chassis. Yesterday I turned on the Coach Heater switch to High and heard a 'pop' under dash. The rear monitor quit working and coach heater fan doesn't run.I have removed and checked (with meter) the fuses on the two fuse panels under dash,left side; and under the hood on fire wall. The inline fuse to the monitor is good also. There must be a Coach Heater blower fuse that I am not finding.... Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks,Lloyd
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02-08-2010, 10:22 PM
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#7
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flash1942
Hello Dan or anyone else who can help me.... I have an 03 Winnebago 35u on W22 chassis. Yesterday I turned on the Coach Heater switch to High and heard a 'pop' under dash. The rear monitor quit working and coach heater fan doesn't run.I have removed and checked (with meter) the fuses on the two fuse panels under dash,left side; and under the hood on fire wall. The inline fuse to the monitor is good also. There must be a Coach Heater blower fuse that I am not finding.... Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks,Lloyd
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you sent me an email type thing, but the system will not let me reply to you that way.
the fuse for my blower and backup monitor is the top right fuse on the rectangular panel under the dash to the left of the steering wheel, accessed with the dash lifted. i had to remove the hot wire from the blower switch to keep it from blowing again. replace this fuse. check the fuse contacts. it may not pass high current but still check ok with a meter.
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01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks, toad '14 smart car
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02-09-2010, 10:26 AM
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#8
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: On the Road Westward
Posts: 711
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CBChief, If the fan turns ok on hi, then I believe it is the resister pack in the heater package below deck. I replaced mine, after removing water heater.
But with a little thought you could wire a resister pack behind the dash switch. You already have a wire to the motor (hi speed). Disconnect lo speed wire and tape off. Add resister pack between switch lo speed contact and hi speed wire going to motor.
Put resister pack in a small enclosure with muffin fan to cool.
Sure beats the heck out of removing water heater & aux heating unit. (been there, done that several times)
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Dan & Sharon & Kasey (Our Yorkie Puppy (12 Yrs Old) On the Road (2012 Journey 36M, 2006 Jeep Liberty)
USN-Ret ('65-'93) Fulltimers, Class of 2012
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02-09-2010, 04:58 PM
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#9
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12
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blower fuse
Thanks Dan and other Dan, for the suggestions on my problem.I disconnected the blower switch and replaced the blown 15amp fuse.Now my rear view monitor works.That was my main concern.When I get some warmer weather ,I will troubleshoot the blower and resister pack. Thanks again,Lloyd
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02-09-2010, 05:50 PM
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#10
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flash1942
Thanks Dan and other Dan, for the suggestions on my problem.I disconnected the blower switch and replaced the blown 15amp fuse.Now my rear view monitor works.That was my main concern.When I get some warmer weather ,I will troubleshoot the blower and resister pack. Thanks again,Lloyd
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my problem with my coach heater blower was that it would only start on high, not low and it made a loud noise. i guess i hit the low switch inadvertently at night, it was on low too long and it blew the fuse and then the motor wouldn't run at all.
i found out from this forum that my problem is that the motor basket blower is not secured properly to the motor shaft and the basket migrates until it hits the housing, making much noise and little heat. the motor is difficult to reach without removing the water heater in my moho. there is an epoxy repair suggested in the archives of this forum.
i just use the propane furnace if the dash heat isn't enough when driving.
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01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks, toad '14 smart car
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11-10-2011, 07:41 PM
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#11
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 16
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I just did the repair on my Suncruiser 33V today. Mine operated on high with the noise, still worked on low, but also had the noise. Figured I should fix it before it went completely south. I followed the repair procedure under "FILE" at the top of the page.
Initially, I thought I could play human contourtionist and get the blower box out without removing the water heater, complete waste of time and total back breaker! So, drown 10 and punt, pulled the water heater out, then the blower box. The repair was obvious once I got the blower motor out.
Once the squirel cage fan was removed, the problem apparent, the cage had moved on the shaft over time. I placed the single washer (spacer) on the shaft and re-installed. I attempted to drill the cage and shaft to pin them together, but the shaft was too hard to drill without damaging the plastic on the cage in the process. So I added glue to the end to hopefully keep it all in pace. All back together and works like a charm! So happy to hve this done and it didn't cost a dime! I can only imagine what it would have cost at the dealer at $110/hour!
Really, really want to thank everyone who takes the times to post information on these problems, they are litterally money int he pocket! Thanks to all!
Kev
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