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Old 01-28-2022, 09:59 AM   #1
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Coach Battery Drain

I have a 2010 Access 31J. When going to check on it in storage I found the coach battery completely dead. It had been about 3 weeks since I had last run the engine. I had also noticed during some weekend trips that the battery would run down over the course of a few days to the point where it would hesitate to start. What are some potential sources of coach battery drain to start checking?
The RV is new to me (a few months). The battery is less than 2 years old. I took it home, charged it and will get it load tested to see if it's still any good.

Thanks!
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Old 01-28-2022, 10:40 AM   #2
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A review of some big points in case you may be missing some of them?

Know that there are two seperate systems, coach which does most of the Rv items and then start which does the starting and things we normally find on most cars/trucks.
But the confusing part is that these are connected at different times for different reasons, making it difficult.
So the starting battery is the one to study if the engine is hard/slow to start. It tends to be more understandable as we are more used to it. Main point on it is that it only gets charged from the engine alternator when running, not when connecting the RV to power, etc.! It has drains left like the radio presets and any ignition, door locks, etc. onboard-----or if the step is left extended, there may be a light underneath it which kills the battery pretty quick!

Second group is the coach which is charged by the converter while the RV is plugged in OR it can also pick up a small amount of charge while we drive as a "mode solenoid" connects the two systems together! But only while the engine runs or while we are pushing the boost switch on the dash, not if we put a charger on the start battery!
So the drains on the coach systems are any safety items like the CO and propane detectors OR if we leave the dash radio powered by the coach. There is often a dash switch to control which battery powers the dash radio?

Lots of folks with lots of differing ideas on how to handle the problems of keeping both sets charged on something we may not drive often. Part of the solution has to depend on how we each use the RV as time alone will also let a battery "self-dicharge" given enough time!

When we used an RV somewhat infrequently, my preffered method was to add a kill switch to both the coach and start battery negative terminals to fully isolate the batteries and then strap the positives together with a small wire and add a charger to do both sets while stored.
Many prefer adding something like Trik-L-Start, etc to use part of the charge from the coach for the start and then leave the RV plugged into power so the converter can charge both.

Lots of options and no one method fits all of us as we vary so much!
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Old 01-28-2022, 12:38 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply.

My problem is with the starting battery. I wasn't aware of the step being left out as a possible drain on the starting battery. I'll have to check if mine has a light. That would explain the somewhat hard starts after a weekend trip. While in storage the step has been up, so it seems like there is still something else draining the battery.

I haven't had any issues with the coach batteries (yet). I have been running the generator periodically to give it some exercise and top the batteries when there is significant time between uses.

I will be looking into installing a cut off for use in storage. Until then I'm likely to keep the battery at home until our next trip.

Thanks!
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Old 01-28-2022, 01:31 PM   #4
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And just as a headsup? It is not at all uncommon for folks to trade the RV off when they sense the batteries are no longer very good!
That often puts an RV on a lot and the dealer is certainly not the one to tell us of any small "defects" or even know about them, so the RV may set for a few months and the batteries may go totally dead, so they jump start it and that lasts for a few tries or long enough to sell it!

The problem with the step light for me was that I was always looking in the daytime and not spotting the light burning!
Turns out the step is a full blown wonder on what and how it works!
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Old 01-29-2022, 05:02 PM   #5
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Hey Ranger, I installed an Amp-L-Start on mine. Winnebago at least on mine won’t charge the engine battery when plugged in to shore power.

The amp l start will tie the batteries together with a controller monitoring the batteries and it keeps both batteries charged as long as you are plugged into shore power, engine running or on generator.

Not exactly sure about your unit but it sure works for me. Easy hookup, a ground wire, and one wire to the house battery and one to the engine battery, that’s it.

Google amp-l-start and you should turn it up.

Safe travels
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Old 01-29-2022, 05:32 PM   #6
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If you don’t know the battery’s history since new it might just be “done.”

Certainly, be sure all is off when in storage. But keep in mind the chassis battery dying in storage doesn’t necessarily mean that everything wasn’t turned off.
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Old 02-03-2022, 12:41 PM   #7
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Our View drains the starter battery in less than a week if it sits (web says this is normal??). But I now keep a solar charger on it when parked. The coach batteries are already charged by solar (but one year I tarped the rig cutting off the solar and both batteries died, $$$
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Old 02-04-2022, 09:33 AM   #8
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An update.

After charging the battery at home, I put it back in and we took a short weekend trip with it. It performed well with no signs of draining as we had seen previously. It's back in storage now until we get another spell of nice weather. I'll see how it holds up over the next few weeks.

I also looked into the step light mentioned by Morich. In my case, the light is only on when the door is open, so I'm sure it wasn't lit the whole time we were in the campground.

I'm also going to look into a solar charger. Any recommendations?

Thanks!
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Old 02-04-2022, 11:53 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger View Post
An update.

After charging the battery at home, I put it back in and we took a short weekend trip with it. It performed well with no signs of draining as we had seen previously. It's back in storage now until we get another spell of nice weather. I'll see how it holds up over the next few weeks.

I also looked into the step light mentioned by Morich. In my case, the light is only on when the door is open, so I'm sure it wasn't lit the whole time we were in the campground.

I'm also going to look into a solar charger. Any recommendations?

Thanks!
On a side note, when on shoreline power, if I turn the ignition key to the first position, (no dash lights on), both coach and starter batteries get charged.
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Old 02-05-2022, 08:44 AM   #10
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I had a post here the other day and just when I was going to post it my hand slipped...oh well.

My 2 cents:

My 2008 Winnebago Destination 39W was in storage plugged into 110V supply. After about 10 days or so the service (Start) battery would drop to 11.4 volts. I'd have to use the boost to start it. Drove me crazy and decided to call Winnebago. Here is what they told me.

Do not leave the step switch in the ON position (not because of the light) because the steps, along with all the other parasitic draws, will draw more current than the converter can keep up with. They also stated that the Service switch and House switch needed to be in the ON position for the charging system to work. The House batteries will charge to full and then the Service batteries will charge.

Once i started leaving the steps out and the step switch in the OFF position I never had another problem with the service batteries dropping voltage when plugged in. On the destination I could let the steps go in and using a stick, turn the step switch off. Now in covered storage I just leave the step out with the switch off.

Happy trails.

p.s. If one has the ability, a toggle switch could be hooked to the step power feed, mounted, and used to turn the step off if it is not viable to do so otherwise.

Please check with the manufacturer for you brand and model for reasons of battery drain on a constant basis. Each brand/model is different.
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Old 02-05-2022, 09:21 AM   #11
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Please check with the manufacturer for you brand and model for reasons of battery drain on a constant basis. Each brand/model is different.
This is a definite idea that we should all keep very much in mind as RV come in lots of differentversions and lots of different options on each, so what onedoes is no factor in what another may do.

Mention of the start battery charging once the coach battery is charged is an example! This defintiely is true but only IF that RV has the small electronics to do that connection and many do not, so we each have to know our own RV to find out how it works.

It will be obvious to most of us that a newer larger RV will have lots of options/features not on a smaller older RV and those items are not restricted to the items we see but also many of the unseen items will be different.
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Old 02-05-2022, 09:59 PM   #12
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Coach Battery Drain

If you coach is a Winnebago give them a call. I have found them very helpful in the past.
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Old 02-06-2022, 07:33 AM   #13
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I don't know if you've ever experienced it but even an automobile's battery can go dead over three weeks due to "parasitic loads" (radio, clock, alarms, etc.), especially if it's weak or not fully charged. I've read that this load can average 85mA or .085A. Over the course of three weeks, .085A x 24 hours x 21 days = 42.84Ah. Even without the load from the step, this is enough to cause a problem, especially if the battery is getting older and/or wasn't fully charged.

https://powertronbatteryco.com/how-t...r-car-battery/

Morich's comment about full disconnect switches is a good one.
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Old 02-06-2022, 08:32 AM   #14
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I don't know if you've ever experienced it but even an automobile's battery can go dead over three weeks due to "parasitic loads" (radio, clock, alarms, etc.), especially if it's weak or not fully charged. I've read that this load can average 85mA or .085A. Over the course of three weeks, .085A x 24 hours x 21 days = 42.84Ah. Even without the load from the step, this is enough to cause a problem, especially if the battery is getting older and/or wasn't fully charged.

https://powertronbatteryco.com/how-t...r-car-battery/

Morich's comment about full disconnect switches is a good one.
This is a point where I think most of us have to almost be knocked in the head to get the big difference in how we use the RV versus a car!
We use the car and a good battery lasts three years or so without much attention but in an RV the start battery goes flat every time we look at it, unless we happen to be one who keep it on the road most of the time like we do our cars!
Even if full timers, we rarely start up the engine and run itlong enough to recharge a half dead battery, so if we do that several times in a row, it gets critical and we may get into the habit of just hitting the boost switch and griping a bit, instead of really finding out what we are doing to the battery. Then the next step is finding the silly battery is totally ruined and can't firgure out why!

If we don't do something to keep the start battery fully charged and go through the use as above, the battery likely gets lower and lower until it is being damaged due to being such a low state of charge!

Setting at a campsite for 3-4 days, driving 4 hours and setting another 3-4 days is one sure way to gradually let the battery go lower and lower until we do damage!
Batteries do not fully charge in 4 hours of driving! The voltage will likely show good but that is one certain way to shorten the life!
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Old 02-06-2022, 10:09 AM   #15
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Until I can get solar panels mounted on my roof, I have a 50W panel temporarily mounted on the rear ladder which, conveniently faces south while in storage. The angle is adjustable via a system of cords and a bungee. I ran a length of 10 gauge landscaping cord to my battery compartment and an inexpensive solar controller. I remove the cord and secure the panel for travel.

That, along with an Amp-L-Start (easy to install), keeps my house and starting batteries charged and ready to go.

I already had the 50W panel but a 20W should be adequate if you have reasonable sun exposure. Don't count on the small automotive panels (typically 5W or so) to do the job. Here's an example of a reasonably priced 20W panel/controller:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-solar-Main...%2C112&sr=8-15

Here's a 30W model:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-solar-Main...%2C112&sr=8-19

Make sure you connect directly to your house batteries. Your starting battery will charge via the Amp-L-Start. Don't rely on plugging into a cigarette lighter receptacle.

It won't be as efficient, but if you're concerned about theft, you can prop the panel up inside your windshield if it has decent sun exposure. In this case, I'd opt for the higher wattage, 30A panel.
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Old 02-10-2022, 11:30 AM   #16
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A couple of things...
MY winnebago power step is connected to the chassis/starter batteries.
In fact, all of the 'to go' loads are - power awning, slides, leveling jacks.
The rest of the 12v loads are on the house circuit.

I replaced the GC2's under the steps with a DIY 230A lifepo4 pack, put it under the settee in the main cabin. Now that the house batts are out of the old tray, I added a second starting battery, a 100w solar panel and basic controller just for them, and a dc to dc charger for chassis to house pack - it only runs when the key is on.

The old isolator/conbimer solenoid was removed. And the generator lead now on the chassis side as well - as-built was to the house circuit.

It's been a three-month project and a couple of grand. Sure works awesome!



Lifepo4 230A pack, new converter/charger and inverter. There is 430W of PV's on the roof and a 160W portable 'suitcase'. Two mppt SCC's.

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