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Old 07-25-2015, 09:22 AM   #1
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Chassis Batteries won't hold charge

I have a 2004 Winnebago Journey 40 ft. Recently I had to replace the Alternator with a rebuild and both Chassis batteries. For some reason the batteries are discharging at an alarming rate. Any ideas for the cause??
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Old 07-25-2015, 09:30 AM   #2
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Sorry you're here with problems.

Could be the wrong alternator for the application was installed, but need to know , what you consider an alarming rate. Hours? Days? Weeks?
Knowing your chassis manufacturer and engine , could be a help.
Freightliner ? Cummins?
Was there any wiring repair done when the alternator was installed ?
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Old 07-25-2015, 01:22 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by tdbare43 View Post
I have a 2004 Winnebago Journey 40 ft. Recently I had to replace the Alternator with a rebuild and both Chassis batteries. For some reason the batteries are discharging at an alarming rate. Any ideas for the cause??
Well Sir,
First off, may I ask, what the reason for the replacement alternator? Did it give up the ghost and stopped charging? Did it seize up? What? And, did you replace the chassis batteries just because you replaced the alternator? Or, were they not up to par in starting the coach or what? Just trying to build some history here.

Now, first off, if you have a Volt-ohm meter, and, no how to use it, what exactly do your chassis batteries say, when the engine is OFF? Now, that do they say when the engine is ON? And, take the readings at the battery posts, not any other place.

Second, just for your self assurance, have those chassis batteries load tested to make sure, they're good and, will handle the typical loads, associated with RV chassis duties.

Third, if you're still finding that there seems to be a higher than normal (there's always what's called "parasitic" drains on both sets of batteries) drain, then it's time for further investigation. The simple quick test is, disconnect the main ground at the chassis batteries. Put a 12V test light in between the negative post and, the cable end. If it lights up bright, yep, you got a "short" or, something's left on like interior compartment lights, interior coach lights inside the coach someplace, or, some other 12V appliance of some type.

A bit more tedious test is to, leave that test light in place, and, start pulling the 12V fuses for 12V operation (water pump, furnace, lights, and any other potential drains) in the coach, one by one, and see if that light goes out, after pulling any particular one. If it in fact goes out, after one is pulled, then you have at least an area to start looking, to find out why that circuit is causing you problems. Good luck.
Scott
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Old 07-25-2015, 02:30 PM   #4
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If the batteries were doing ok and the alternator went bad and you replaced it with a rebuilt one. that tells you that the alternator is bad. What happens is one of the diodes gets shorted out and it has no way to stop the currant loose. You have 6 diodes on the back side of it. Did you spark it when you put it in. Or short it out. But like everyone says we need more info. When you reconnect the battery does it make Sparks and so on.


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Old 07-27-2015, 07:23 AM   #5
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Chassis Batteries

We were about 100 miles from home when the Control Panel indicated that the batteries were not being charged. WE were in the middle of nowhere so I kept driving . I took the bus (Winnebago Journey 2004 with a cat 330 on a FreightLiner chassis) to a heavy duty truck shop. They checked and found the alternator to be faulty. They did not have the proper replacement battery for a Motor Home so they had it rebuilt locally and re-installed on the bus. Everything seemed fine at this point. The next day the batteries were flat so I took it back. The batteries were replaced and I thought all would be well. WRONG! Took the bus back home. The next day the batteries were dead again so I put my charger on them and brought them back up. Two hours after I removed the charger the batteries were dead again. Does that help ?? Once I get the bus started everything seems to be working normally. Go figure. LOL.
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Old 07-27-2015, 07:59 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdbare43 View Post
We were about 100 miles from home when the Control Panel indicated that the batteries were not being charged. WE were in the middle of nowhere so I kept driving . I took the bus (Winnebago Journey 2004 with a cat 330 on a FreightLiner chassis) to a heavy duty truck shop. They checked and found the alternator to be faulty. They did not have the proper replacement battery for a Motor Home so they had it rebuilt locally and re-installed on the bus. Everything seemed fine at this point. The next day the batteries were flat so I took it back. The batteries were replaced and I thought all would be well. WRONG! Took the bus back home. The next day the batteries were dead again so I put my charger on them and brought them back up. Two hours after I removed the charger the batteries were dead again. Does that help ?? Once I get the bus started everything seems to be working normally. Go figure. LOL.
Ted
Thank you for the full description, of you problem.
With that fast a draw down the cables should be hot, and the alternator should not be able to keep up when the coach is running. JMHO. of course.
First thing to try would be to disconnect the batteries from the coach and charge them, for 24 hrs. , then leave them disconnected, overnight, to see if they maintain their charge.
If the batteries stay up , then disconnect the heavy cable from the back of the alternator, and hook the batteries back up. if they aren't dead in a few hours then the problem is internal in the alternator.
The Freightliner wiring uses a diode in the exciter wire , to the alternator from the ignition , to prevent power feeding back once the ignition is turned off. I don't think that's you problem , because, if the diode goes bad you usually can't shut the engine down.
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Old 07-27-2015, 12:44 PM   #7
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If they are discharging at an "Alarming rate" My suspect would be the alternator in this case..

But here is some good news.. The technology to figure it out has been around at least as long as I have (I'm 64).

You will need: A CLAMP ON DC ammeter

Find the battery wire to the alternator and with the engine OFF clamp on and read.. IF you see current. there's your problem (Should be zero)

You can also test any other suspect the very same way.
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