Charging of engine battery - Page 2

grtharris · 01-31-2015, 08:41 AM

jerichorick, The OP's coach does not have a B.I.R.D. system, the relay you pointed out is the continuous duty mode relay energized my the Battery Boost switch or the engine running signal.

osgoor · 01-31-2015, 11:51 AM

Thanks to everyone for their thoughtful replies. My actions will be to:

1) Replace the engine battery as I believe it is close to or is the original.
2) Add a Trik-l-start from the coach batteries to the chassis battery.

I appreciate all the effort you guys placed in your replies.
Rick

jerichorick · 02-01-2015, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grtharris

jerichorick, The OP's coach does not have a B.I.R.D. system, the relay you pointed out is the continuous duty mode relay energized my the Battery Boost switch or the engine running signal.

When I looked at the diagram the relay I found does the same thing. It is similar to the system I had on my '05 Vectra. The relay senses the low voltage and falls to it to provide charging. It's a bi-directional relay. What the initials actually stand for I don't recall at the moment. Mine failed and I had to replace it.

What the OP did in his final solution was to eliminate the relay with the Trik-l-start. Many coaches are using that system, including some Winnebago models.

Happy trails,

Rick Y

rottenkid · 02-01-2015, 08:11 AM

We have a Winnebago 26 HE. I'm on shore power all winter. I contacted Winnebago about a trickle charger for my chassis battery. At first they told me not to do that, then they changed their attitude and sent me a web site on the subject and told me to go ahead and add a trickle charger. I use these chargers on my Ferguson tractor, my riding lawn mower and my Astro van. They keep the battery healthy even in frigid weather.

osgoor · 02-08-2015, 10:27 AM

Interesting twist... still waiting on Trik-L-charger and new battery. I looked at the energy mgmt panel, engine battery and it said 4.1 volts. I expected this so no big deal. Today I pushed the black tank button and it came up with faded full lights. I had just dumped it so I knew that this was wrong. I checked the others (gray, fresh and LP and they all showed faded out full lights. I boosted the engine battery and started the engine and then all lights on the EMP worked normally.

I did not think the engine battery would cause the light issue I described. Should I be looking for another cause or problem???

Thanks

grtharris · 02-08-2015, 10:34 AM

osgoor, sounds like you chassis batteries were a little low also. Does not take much to mess with led readouts.

ChasA · 02-08-2015, 04:49 PM

I think grtharris meant your coach batteries are also low since engine battery=chassis battery.

grtharris · 02-08-2015, 06:40 PM

ChasA, that be correct I meant coach batteries.

osgoor · 02-11-2015, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grtharris

ChasA, that be correct I meant coach batteries.

House batteries (2 6 volt) show ok at 13.2 volts. Engine battery is dead. Lights on EMS panel show all tanks full again (dimly). I boosted the batteries to start the engine and the engine/chassis battery showed 15.2 volts on the EMS panel. Trik-L-charger to arrive Friday.

Fun fun fun

jerichorick · 02-12-2015, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by osgoor

House batteries (2 6 volt) show ok at 13.2 volts. Engine battery is dead. Lights on EMS panel show all tanks full again (dimly). I boosted the batteries to start the engine and the engine/chassis battery showed 15.2 volts on the EMS panel. Trik-L-charger to arrive Friday.

Fun fun fun

When you say "dead", did you measure the battery voltage?

osgoor · 02-13-2015, 02:34 PM

I did measure the battery voltage and it was 2.0 volts. New Trik-L-charge arrived today and was installed along with a new battery. Now, time will tell if all the little gremlins have been vanquished...

mgtr · 02-13-2015, 02:51 PM

We have been motorhoming since 1985, and I have never been able to say that "all the little gremlins have been vanquished." Just asking for more problems, in my opinion.

nothermark · 02-14-2015, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by osgoor

I did measure the battery voltage and it was 2.0 volts. New Trik-L-charge arrived today and was installed along with a new battery. Now, time will tell if all the little gremlins have been vanquished...

If the battery voltage does not come up in a day or two then you do not have enough current capacity in the trickle charger. You may need to use a bigger charger to get the battery up then use the trickle charger to maintain it.

jerichorick · 02-14-2015, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by osgoor

I did measure the battery voltage and it was 2.0 volts. New Trik-L-charge arrived today and was installed along with a new battery. Now, time will tell if all the little gremlins have been vanquished...

That is BURY IT dead. Most batteries do not recover from that deep a discharge. I think the standard rule of thumb is anything below 9V on a 12V battery is fatal to the battery. Once you have it charged (if you can charge it) disconnect it and read the voltage after 24hrs. If it sags more than .5V it may be bad. Go for another 24hrs and read it again. If the voltage continues to sag the battery is NG. On a fresh charge it may still start your rig but I would not trust it.

We wait...

Rick Y

Dr4Film · 02-14-2015, 01:43 PM

Quote:

New Trik-L-charge arrived today and was installed along with a new battery. Now, time will tell if all the little gremlins have been vanquished...

My understanding is that a new battery was installed. Therefore any concerns about charging the old battery or whether it would even take a charge is moot.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

ChasA · 02-14-2015, 04:22 PM

I agree with Richard. RIF reading is fundamental.

nothermark · 02-15-2015, 05:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerichorick

That is BURY IT dead. Most batteries do not recover from that deep a discharge. I think the standard rule of thumb is anything below 9V on a 12V battery is fatal to the battery. Once you have it charged (if you can charge it) disconnect it and read the voltage after 24hrs. If it sags more than .5V it may be bad. Go for another 24hrs and read it again. If the voltage continues to sag the battery is NG. On a fresh charge it may still start your rig but I would not trust it.

We wait...

Rick Y

Not really. It is beyond what most chargers will handle without some current limiting and a slow recharge to get the chemistry working again. That only makes it "dead" to the folks who don't take the time to sort out the problem. Use a low current trickle charger or a high current charger with something like a big lamp bulb in series to current limit while the chemistry comes back and you have more years left assuming it was decent in the first place.

jerichorick · 02-15-2015, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChasA

I agree with Richard. RIF reading is fundamental.

I have. The new battery has been subjected to a low voltage discharge that is beyond its design limits and may now be damaged. The OP needs to have this start battery tested with a good professional tester like I used when I was gainfully employed and did this for a living. The 24hr sag test is a next best substitute.

Rick Y

Hikerdogs · 02-15-2015, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by osgoor

House batteries (2 6 volt) show ok at 13.2 volts. Engine battery is dead. Lights on EMS panel show all tanks full again (dimly). I boosted the batteries to start the engine and the engine/chassis battery showed 15.2 volts on the EMS panel. Trik-L-charger to arrive Friday.

Fun fun fun

If you have 2, 6 volt batteries for house batteries someone has definitely been changing out the batteries. The 6 volt batteries have to be wired in series to have a 12 volt output. Your motorhome originally came with 2 group 29, or 2 group 31, 12 volt batteries wired in parallel.

The 15.2 volts on the chassis battery sounds way too high unless you were reading the panel with the booster attached as the engine was cranking. The maximum charge voltage should be about 14.3 volts.