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Old 11-10-2013, 12:22 PM   #1
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Boost switch not working

On my 2002 Itasca suncruiser when my chassis battery ran down I tried to use the dash boost switch to start the motor home but it did nothing. The coach batteries were fine as a matter of fact I used jumper cables from the chassis batteries to the coach batteries to star the coach. There are 2 relays behind a panel above batteries. One I think is for the coach battery switch. Is the other relay what connects the 2 batteries together to start coach. I have the winnebago wiring diagrams but does not really say what the relays are for. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 11-11-2013, 07:06 AM   #2
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The wiring diagrams are available on the Winnebago site for your model. You should download them and keep a copy in the MH.
You do need to fill out your Signature so we can help you better.
Now as far as getting the MH going, did you have the Chassis battery disconnect switch on or off? Also are you using the Boost switch correctly? That is holding it in the Boost position and turning the key to the MH to start it? I know it may sound stupid but ya never know Have someone press the boost switch while you sit there and listen to the relays and see if one actually clicks over.
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Old 11-11-2013, 07:54 AM   #3
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I just had that problem with my 2008 Adventurer, boost relay actually clicked but no voltage going through the relay, replaced relay works great now. So even if it clicks need to check voltage on both large posts on the relay to make sure it is actually making connection.

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Old 11-11-2013, 09:24 AM   #4
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On mine (Workhorse chassis) Winnebago calls it the AUX START switch. The solenoid is a continuous duty unit and is activated two ways.
One by the momentary rocker switch on the dash or by a wire from the RUN terminal of the ignition switch.

The fuse on mine is on the fuse panel under the dash on the left towards the back and is labeled "Step Warning".

The wire from that fuse goes to the step control board, back up monitor, AUX Start solenoid, and the MotorAid rear heater fan.

The other solenoid you see is the Battery Disconnect solenoid and is a latching relay that draws no current when at rest.
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Old 11-11-2013, 04:23 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by SuperGewl View Post
The wiring diagrams are available on the Winnebago site for your model. You should download them and keep a copy in the MH.
You do need to fill out your Signature so we can help you better.
Now as far as getting the MH going, did you have the Chassis battery disconnect switch on or off? Also are you using the Boost switch correctly? That is holding it in the Boost position and turning the key to the MH to start it? I know it may sound stupid but ya never know Have someone press the boost switch while you sit there and listen to the relays and see if one actually clicks over.
I have my motorhome information on my signiture line and I do have the itasca wiring diagrams but they do not indicate which relay is for the boost. I was using it correctley. I was hoding it in while trying to start the engine.
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Old 11-11-2013, 05:42 PM   #6
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Hold the switch down for a minute or so before trying to start the engine - That gives some time for the chassis battery to take more of a charge from the house batteries.
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Old 11-12-2013, 08:16 AM   #7
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Take a look at the diagram below. Note that the Battery Mode (Aux Start) solenoid on the left has one signal lead and the battery disconnect solenoid has two signal leads. You can identify the solenoids by which wires go to each one.

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Old 11-12-2013, 06:40 PM   #8
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thanks everyone, this info will help me identify the correct relay and to see if relay is bad or just not getting power from switch.
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:29 PM   #9
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thanks everyone, this info will help me identify the correct relay and to see if relay is bad or just not getting power from switch.
I always seem to ask the silly question, but are you simply pushing the switch once (and hearing a click from the solenoid) or are you holding down the switch for a few minutes to 'charge' the battery?

The first time I needed to use this feature I misunderstood how the switch worked and thought I had a problem with the switch or solenoid, but it turned out to be user error: me.
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Old 11-16-2013, 06:00 PM   #10
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I went to the motorhome today to check out boost switch found relay clicking but not making the circuit across so relay is bad. Went to a pet boys to buy one but they had nothing. Does anybody know where I could get one other than winnebago?
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:32 AM   #11
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I went to the motorhome today to check out boost switch found relay clicking but not making the circuit across so relay is bad. Went to a pet boys to buy one but they had nothing. Does anybody know where I could get one other than winnebago?
do a forum search.
ims, you need a continuous duty unit designed for 15 volts, not intermittent.
some say the unit can be taken apart and the contacts cleaned.
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:45 AM   #12
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White Rodgers 70-111224 Solenoid, SPNO, 12 VDC Isolated Coil, Continuous Duty - Amazon.com

Here is a link to the one I like. I would have said any auto parts store would have one. I'm not all that familiar with Pep Boys. Certainly a NAPA store can cross reference the White Rogers number.
Good Luck
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:00 AM   #13
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The ones Winnebago uses are made by Trombeta. HERE is one a lot of people replace the Winnebago part with because it is more robust.
I had to use the Winnebago part number from Trombeta because I didn't have room for the Bear model.
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:09 PM   #14
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The ones Winnebago uses are made by Trombeta. HERE is one a lot of people replace the Winnebago part with because it is more robust.
I had to use the Winnebago part number from Trombeta because I didn't have room for the Bear model.
Thank you for the wiring diagram and the indication which relay was which. I did order one on line hope it is a good one. I did take the thing apart to see what was wrong with it see it just got very dirty and would not make contact. The one that was on mine said camdec 97226
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:24 PM   #15
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I got the solenoid and replaced it today. It works fine now thanks for the help.
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Old 11-23-2013, 09:21 AM   #16
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I got the solenoid and replaced it today. It works fine now thanks for the help.
Please post the part #, cost, and where you ordered online. THANKS
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Old 11-23-2013, 09:34 AM   #17
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Quote:
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The ones Winnebago uses are made by Trombeta. HERE is one a lot of people replace the Winnebago part with because it is more robust.
I had to use the Winnebago part number from Trombeta because I didn't have room for the Bear model.
That is what I bought a few months ago and from Murcal as in ad. Easy change, I then connected an Amp-L-Start to it to help keep chassis batteries up. With the ALS I have not had the ocassion to need the boost switch, but if I do I know have a new solenoid also. Happy with both products.
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:19 AM   #18
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I had the very same problem and so did my cousin and so have many others. that relay supplied by winnebago just doesn't cut the mustard. I was down in Florida and pick up a starter relay at NAPA. Justs a general purpose relay. they charged me &80 buck but found the very same model at many other locations later for just about $25-30.

the rating is only 80 amps but it does start the diesel as well continues to charge the batteries.
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Old 11-30-2013, 10:31 AM   #19
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I had the very same problem and so did my cousin and so have many others. that relay supplied by winnebago just doesn't cut the mustard. I was down in Florida and pick up a starter relay at NAPA. Justs a general purpose relay. they charged me &80 buck but found the very same model at many other locations later for just about $25-30.

the rating is only 80 amps but it does start the diesel as well continues to charge the batteries.
Starter relays are not 100% duty cycle, they are only meant to pull in during starting. The isolation/boost relay is pulled in whenever the ignition is on.
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Old 11-30-2013, 11:37 AM   #20
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Starter relays are not 100% duty cycle, they are only meant to pull in during starting. The isolation/boost relay is pulled in whenever the ignition is on.
Definitely needs to be a 100% duty cycle (constant duty) relay. If your coach has a B.I.R.D the relay is controlled by the BIRD. It can be activated when the ignition is off and plugged into shore power or the generator is running so the coach batteries are being charged. If the chassis battery drops below the threshold programed into the BIRD it will close and charge the chassis battery. It can also be open with the ignition on under certain conditions.

Bi-Directional Isolator Relay Delay by INTELLITEC
Intellitec Bi-Directional Isolator Relay Delay offers a new approach to charging batteries in an RV application. Unlike prior systems that only allowed charging the RV battery from the engines alternator, the Bi-Directional Isolator Relay Delay charges both batteries when either one is being charged. When the coach is being driven, both batteries will be charged from the engines alternator. When the coach is plugged into shore power, both batteries will be charged from the converter. If neither battery is being charged, the batteries are fully isolated. The controller also senses heavy loads on either battery to prevent the wrong battery from being inadvertently discharged.
It operates by sensing the voltage on both batteries. When either of these volts exceeds 13.3 volts for approximately 12 seconds, which happens when either battery is being charged, the control will close the isolator solenoid, connecting the two batteries together, charging them both. (Normal charging voltages are from approximately 13.8 to 14.4 volts.)
After the solenoid has been closed, the system continues to sense the voltage. If the ignition switch is off and the battery voltage drops below 12.8 volts for approximately 5 seconds, which might occur when the converter is heavily loaded, the solenoid is opened to prevent the chassis battery from being discharged by the coach loads. When the voltage goes above 13.3 volts again for approximately 5 seconds, the solenoid closes again.
If the ignition switch is on, the control allows the voltage to drop below 12.0 volts for approximately 5 seconds, before the solenoid is opened to insure the alternators full output is available for important chassis functions. When the voltage goes above 13.3 volts again for approximately 5 seconds, the solenoid will close.
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