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Old 01-10-2012, 10:59 AM   #1
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Cool Battery Equqlizing Charge - How to?

After doing some reading, I would like to "equalize" my 3 coach, and 2 engine batteries. My 20 amp charger will only put out 14.1 volts, and I think I need more like 15.1 volts. What kind of charger do I need for this, and where can get one? I don't have 120 volts available at my storage area.

My Xantrex 15 Inverter Charger only puts out only 14.1 volts initially, and drops down to 13.3 where it stays, so that won't do it.

Need help, Thanks, ...Doug

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Old 01-10-2012, 02:17 PM   #2
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Do you have the Xantrex 1500 Watt Freedom Inverter/Charger option with the Freedom Remote Interface? If so then then the Freedom Remote Interface adds Equalization capabiltiy:
Pdf page 6: http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Dis...A(Artwork).pdf

What you may not have is the ability to charge the chassis batties with the Inverter/Charger. Most add that with a Trick-L-Start.

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Old 01-10-2012, 04:02 PM   #3
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You should have little need to use a classic equalization charge on RV or car batteries and a lot of reasons to avoid it.

An equalization charge overcharges some battery cells in an attempt to get those cells that haven't been properly charged up to where they should be. Overcharging is harmful to battery cells.

Properly monitoring an equalization charge requires hydrometry (measuring specific gravity in each cell) and that requires hazmat precautions.

Another issue in RV's is that the charging voltage can be risky for any attached appliances so you need to make sure to remove the battery from the RV.

A much better route, IMHO, is to upgrade your converter to one that does proper battery charging and has a maintenance mode that maintains a full charge and applies a sulfation inhibiting technique (e.g. ChargeWizard based or Iota or WFCO). Promptly recharge your battery when it gets discharged and leave it under the care of the converter's storage maintenance mode when it is not in use.

A good vigorous charge after use followed by a lengthy period of a proper maintenance charge will also equalize the battery cells given time.

and yes, I am aware of the equalization mandates from on high and other such things. I just read them critically to see how they apply to my context and what following those recommendations will actually do for me. I find I can get good battery service at less hassle using techniques, equipment, and practices that fit better with my RV use.
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:16 PM   #4
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I took care of this problem with the Trick-L-Start. I installed it in the forward wall of the battery bay and did the hookups on the connectors on the frame. That allows for the trays to be pulled out and no wires to be concerned about.
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Old 01-11-2012, 06:13 AM   #5
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I may be misinformed. I thought "equalization" was to stir up the electrolyte and get the heavier fluid that may have settled to the bottom mixed with the rest of the electrolyte.

I could see it you were stationary, but wouldn't just driving a MH or 5er do the same thing. From what I have read, you shouldn't do it more often than once a month or so.
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Old 01-11-2012, 08:46 AM   #6
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Equalization is used to overcome Sulfation
From the Battery University Website (How to Prolong and Restore Lead-acid Batteries - Battery University):

Quote:
There are two types of sulfation: reversible or soft sulfation, and permanent or hard sulfation. If a battery is serviced early, reversible sulfation can often be corrected by applying an overcharge to a fully charged battery in the form of a regulated current of about 200mA. The battery terminal voltage is allowed to rise to between 2.50 and 2.66V/cell (15 and 16V on a 12V mono block) for about 24 hours. Increasing the battery temperature to 50–60C (122–140F) further helps in dissolving the crystals. Permanent sulfation sets in when the battery has been in a low state-of-charge for weeks or months, and at this stage no form of restoration is possible.
So, while driving the RV (or shaking the battery) will correct stratification (settling of the water/acid mix into layers) you have to equalize in order to break down the crystals that naturally form on the plates.

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Old 01-11-2012, 09:25 AM   #7
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I used to have a Power On Board charger that had the Equalization function, but it broke. Just thew the instructions away yesterday. My current Schumacher charger doesn't have that function, but I use BatteryMinder charger/maintainers/desulfators. Does it help that they get close to or over 120s during the summer heat in AZ?
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:49 AM   #8
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Charging voltage is reduced at higher temperature. Thats why many chargers have temperature probes connected to the negative post.

Here is what Battery University has to say about temperature effects: How Heat and Loading affect Battery Life - Battery University

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Old 01-11-2012, 09:54 AM   #9
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BTW Dunner - From one of your favorite websites: http://www.batteryminders.com/batter...on040109RV.pdf

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Old 01-11-2012, 10:13 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave78Chief View Post
BTW Dunner - From one of your favorite websites: http://www.batteryminders.com/batter...on040109RV.pdf

Dave
That third paragraph is confusing. Does it mean that if a battery has never lost more than 20% it can be brought to 85% or greater level of performance, or that is the level it can start desulfating?
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:53 AM   #11
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The way I see it:
You have State of Charge (SOC) and Amp Hour (AH) Capacity. To me, sulfation means you have reduced the total amount of AH available due to crystals forming on the plates resulting in depletion of active material surface. So their claim is, for a battery that has not lost more than 20% design AH capacity due to crystalization, then desulfication performed by the equalization process can recover the battery AH capacity to >= 85% of it's original design AH capacity.
An analogy: Use your handy steel brush to remove the surface rust off the furnace burner chamber so the steel to air heat transfer is restored back to original specs (measured in BTU's). Of course, some rust will remain (reduced effieciency) and sometimes the rust is so bad that the steel is damaged (torn out) while tryiing to remove the rust (time for new furnace).

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Old 01-11-2012, 01:26 PM   #12
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"20% of their power as determined by electrolyte specific gravity and/or no load battery voltage after “resting” battery for 10-12 hours."

I guess that means after charging.
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Old 01-11-2012, 02:17 PM   #13
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Yep. In other words, "The surface charge must be removed" either by sitting at rest for 10-12 hours or by loading for a few minutes.

As you know typical charging voltages range from 13.2 to 14.8 VDC however SOC charts like the one below range from 12.7 to 11.89 VDC.



In order to use SOC charts the "Surface Charge" must be removed before you can determine the "actual SOC" of a battery. These level differences (charging voltage vs SOC voltage) tend to confuse people about how to determine the condition of a battery. While all that information is great for ball parking the SOC, the problem is there is temperature corrections that have to be taken into account also. Most charts are based on a battery at-rest temperature of approximately 80 F (26.7 C).

Handy reference page: DEEP CYCLE BATTERY FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

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Old 01-11-2012, 02:27 PM   #14
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I don't know!!

In the 9 years we've owned our DSDP I've never done it and we still have the OEM batteries.
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