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Old 07-21-2016, 11:02 PM   #21
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That's some great information there. Thanks
Texasranger... What line on the screen do you have to be on, when you toggle to the right. I can't even reset the date which shows January ??, 1990. My lines deal with the date, odometer, trip miles, fuel economy, etc. I also get a checklist screen of things I should check before getting on the road.

I wish I could at least set the current date and time. I have the Cummins ISL 8.9L Turbo 380HP with the Allison transmission.

Rick
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Old 07-22-2016, 04:59 AM   #22
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Texasranger... What line on the screen do you have to be on, when you toggle to the right. I can't even reset the date which shows January ??, 1990. My lines deal with the date, odometer, trip miles, fuel economy, etc. I also get a checklist screen of things I should check before getting on the road.

I wish I could at least set the current date and time. I have the Cummins ISL 8.9L Turbo 380HP with the Allison transmission.

Rick
I'll have to play with mine to find out. This is new to me as well.
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Old 07-22-2016, 05:16 AM   #23
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I would take it to the dealer again with the AC problem. AND make sure I got another work order from them, even if it just states that customer had such and such a problem, AGAIN, first reported under warranty, but could not duplicate. Keep the work orders safe and available, when the AC finally craps out, get it replaced/repaired under warranty. Shops are big about saying, "Oh, you don't need a work order, we couldn't find anything wrong!" . . . . Then when it finally takes the long dive, it ends up your word against theirs that it was reported, IF you don't have any paperwork!
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Old 07-22-2016, 06:45 AM   #24
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You don't want to be on any line. If you have the checklist on screen, left toggle to remove it.
With NO line highlighted, hold toggle to the right to enter setup screen. From here you should be able to set time/date.
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Old 07-24-2016, 07:54 AM   #25
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You don't want to be on any line. If you have the checklist on screen, left toggle to remove it.
With NO line highlighted, hold toggle to the right to enter setup screen. From here you should be able to set time/date.
Hi DancinCampers... THanks for the info. It worked. There are no codes right now. I figure that Freightliner cleared any error codes when they fixed the problem. At least I was able to finally set the date and time

Rick
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Old 07-24-2016, 06:43 PM   #26
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Well... Since my last posting on this topic, my AC (zone 1 - bedroom) worked fine for 2 straight days. Then today we moved to a different RV park 300 miles away. When we arrived, I hooked up to 50 AMP service and then turned on all 3 zones (using system button). Zone 1 acted up again - the compressors comes on only for about a minute, blows cool air. When the compressor shuts down, it blows warm air. I shut zone 1 off using the mode button. I tried about 5 times over a 2 hour period and zone 1 continued with the same - compressor on for a minute, blows cold air, compressor shuts down, blows warm air.

I just tried about 30 minutes ago and zone 1 is now working fine... This is very confusing. If it was the capacitor I don't think the compressor would kick on at all. If it was the freon, I don't think it would blow cool air at all. Any other suggestions? Could it be the power management system? Since the temps here are in the low 90's when we arrived, the power management showed that we reached 47 AMP output a couple of times but never went above 50 AMP...

Any suggestions or thoughts would be appreciated...

Rick
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Old 07-24-2016, 06:55 PM   #27
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Grumpy, I have a vastly different system than you do, so this may not apply.
But your is acting the same way mine acts when I try to run both ACs on my 30 amp connection. The control system will allow both compressors to kick in, but will very quickly 'shed' one of them - usually the rear. (Mine has 'Shed' lights to show me that the AC is on but not being allowed to run it's compressor) It keeps the fan running but the compressor is off. When the front AC reaches the set temperature and the compressor kicks off the rear compressor will then come on.
Perhaps your management system is doing the same thing??
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Old 07-24-2016, 07:38 PM   #28
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It occurs to me that an easy way to check to see if it's your energy management system preventing the compressor from coming on would be to turn off one of the other air conditioners. If the 'bad' one comes on when one of the others is turned off it would be a pretty safe bet that the EMS is simply doing it's job.
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Old 07-24-2016, 07:52 PM   #29
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are you in really hot conditions?

Heat affects how electricity flows. Higher heat = higher resistance = slower flow of electrons = less than optimal power availability.

I've really taken notice over the past two weeks the amazing increase in reports of electrical items in RV's acting up.

I bet when your zone 1 came back to life was as the direct temp was reducing.
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Old 07-24-2016, 07:54 PM   #30
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Grumpy, glad it worked. Your codes may still be there, but only active ones (before you turn engine off), can be read this way.
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Old 07-24-2016, 07:55 PM   #31
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Your management system is detecting that you don't have enough amps to safely run all three ACs. As the unit cools off it takes less amps and your third ac will come in.
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:22 PM   #32
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It occurs to me that an easy way to check to see if it's your energy management system preventing the compressor from coming on would be to turn off one of the other air conditioners. If the 'bad' one comes on when one of the others is turned off it would be a pretty safe bet that the EMS is simply doing it's job.
I did try that and zone 1 still acted up until zone 3 and zone 2 cooled down from the 90s to the low 80s. I am leaning towards the power management system as Texasranger mentioned in his post.

THanks everyone for your responses...
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Old 07-25-2016, 05:16 PM   #33
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Right now I have all three ACs working. The PowerLine Energy Management System shows:

L1 118 Volts 29 AMPS
L2 119 Volts 16 AMPS
BOTH 45 AMPS

Front AC ON 0A, Middle AC ON 0A, Rear ON AC 0A, Water Heater ON 10 A. All the other stuff shows on 0A.

Loads Shed = 0

This is confusing... Is my management system working correctly?

Rick
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Old 07-25-2016, 05:36 PM   #34
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Right now I have all three ACs working. The PowerLine Energy Management System shows:

L1 118 Volts 29 AMPS
L2 119 Volts 16 AMPS
BOTH 45 AMPS

Front AC ON 0A, Middle AC ON 0A, Rear ON AC 0A, Water Heater ON 10 A. All the other stuff shows on 0A.

Loads Shed = 0

This is confusing... Is my management system working correctly?

Rick


I noticed if I left my water off electric it let all three units start up.
So in the summer we just use the propane water heater. Turn on 10 min before bath time and good to go.
I also learned that after driving there is HOT HOT water. I didnt know that the water heater had a heat exchanger with the radiator system.
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Old 07-25-2016, 06:33 PM   #35
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I believe the 0A next to the a/c's indicate that they have not been shed. The 10A by the water heater indicates it has been shed in the past, and 10 amps was its' draw at the time it was shed.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:50 PM   #36
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I believe the 0A next to the a/c's indicate that they have not been shed. The 10A by the water heater indicates it has been shed in the past, and 10 amps was its' draw at the time it was shed.
DancinCampers - Thank you for your information...

So let me make sure I understand... The PowerLine Energy Management System does not tell you what appliances / devices are using XX AMPS? It only tells you if the appliance / device is on and if it gets shed, how much AMP it was drawing?

Seems confusing when L1 and L2 tell you how many AMPS are being drawn.

Rick
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Old 07-25-2016, 09:47 PM   #37
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Yes, when it sheds a load, it remembers how many amps were removed and places that in memory, and won't let that load come back on until there is enough total amps available.

The loads are shed in a specific order, preset by OEM. The amps you see are total, which the unit uses to decide when to shed.

At least, that is my understanding.
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Old 07-27-2016, 08:01 PM   #38
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OK... While traveling in mid 90 temperatures, I started my generator and turned on all three AC units approximately 1/2 hour prior to my arrival at the next park. When I arrived, I hooked up to 50 AMP service and this time, all three ACs worked they way they should. I did not have a shed of Zone 1.

I am confident now that the problems I had with Zone 1 was not AC related, but PowerLine Energy Management System doing its job. The last two parks where my Zone 1 AC unit acted up, was the result of their 50 AMP service not really putting out a full 50 AMP because of the heat wave in this area. Cooling the coach ahead of time, resolved the issue. I probably did not go over the 50 AMP limit.

Again... Thanks to all that provided assistance in this thread.

Rick
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Old 07-27-2016, 08:09 PM   #39
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OK... Still AC related so I am going to ask this question in this thread.

If I run my AC units (3) using generator a 1/2 hour before my arrival at a park, do I need to shut down the AC units before I plug in to 50 AMP service? Do the AC units automatically switch to the 50 AMP?

I automatically shut down the generator if the campground is dusty (dirt / gravel) so that I do not cause a dust storm. Then as soon as I get plugged in, I start the ACs up again.

Along the same lines, if I am hooked up to 50 AMP service and I turn on the generator to exercise it, should I shut off the AC system?

I have read the manual but it doesn't really address these two questions.

THanks in advance for your assistance.
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Old 07-27-2016, 08:22 PM   #40
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. The last two parks where my Zone 1 AC unit acted up, was the result of their 50 AMP service not really putting out a full 50 AMP because of the heat wave in this area. Cooling the coach ahead of time, resolved the issue. I probably did not go over the 50 AMP limit.

50 amp service is really a misnomer......it gets called that because it has a 50 amp breaker, however your coach is actually able to use 50 amps from L1 AND 50 amps from L2 for a combined total of 100 amps.
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