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Old 09-26-2010, 05:43 PM   #1
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Arrived at Forest City...interesting trip

We began our 3 week vacation with a trip to Winne at Forest City. The lot is packed with coaches for service. Our appointment is tomorrow but I have no idea how many are ahead of us and if they take everyone with an appointment in at the start of the day.

We came with intentions of having the big slide bushings replaced (I can see one cracking and the slide seems to be settling more on the inside floor) and having the rear slide adjusted (it is slightly lopsided in the opening). However, on the way here we had the following 'stuff' happen:

1. heater core that I busted my knuckles replacing in 2006 blew out and started leaking like crazy. Bypassed it for now.

2. air horns quit working and I have not been able to determine the cause.

3. genset would not start during one stop....seemed like it was fuel starved. I finally got it started and will replace the fuel filter first chance I get.

4. fog lights quit working, kept kicking the breaker. I was able to find the short today and got them working again.

5. heat pump works intermittently. Gas furnace works fine. I suspect the T stat and do have a spare.

6. King Dome is acting up again.

My list for Winne tomorrow is the slide bushings, adjust rear slide, fix air horns and I will discuss the heater core with Bryan Funke. If the best they can do is put another core in it made by the same folks, I will pass and get a radiator shop to build me a better core when I get home. Not looking forward to pulling the face off the coach but I have done it before and learned a few tricks. I do wonder why these OEM cores are not holding up better.

I looked over a new Tour they have parked on display outside the Visitor Center and I will say my paint job is superior in many ways to the factory job on that Tour.
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Old 09-26-2010, 05:56 PM   #2
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......
Drive safe Gary .. See you in a few weeks in Myrtle Beach.
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:04 PM   #3
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Gary;

Thanks for the report. Your trip to FC kind of reminds me of my trip to FL in March. Tell Bryan hello for me as he has been so helpful to me in the past. You are in a good place for repairs so "Get her done" We are looking forward to seeing you and Julia in Myrtle Beach. Oh and your new paint job also.

Don
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Old 09-27-2010, 12:39 PM   #4
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What are the differences in your paint and the factory paint? I have written to Winnebago twice about their (very drab, to me) paint color selections.
On the other hand, the quality of the work looks good to me. I have never seen one with orange peel, runs or overspray. And I do examine the coaches very closely at rallies and RV shows.

Kerry
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Old 09-27-2010, 06:10 PM   #5
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Drove past Winnie today, picking up parts for my coach.

I am in Belmond (30 miles south of Forest City) having work done at a new RV repair shop there.

Hopefully, I get sprung tomorrow night, and head west.

Safe travels.
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Old 09-27-2010, 06:22 PM   #6
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Drove past Winnie today, picking up parts for my coach.

I am in Belmond (30 miles south of Forest City) having work done at a new RV repair shop there.

Hopefully, I get sprung tomorrow night, and head west.

Safe travels.
What is the name of the RV repair facility you are using? What all do they do?
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Old 09-28-2010, 06:36 AM   #7
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What are the differences in your paint and the factory paint? I have written to Winnebago twice about their (very drab, to me) paint color selections.
On the other hand, the quality of the work looks good to me. I have never seen one with orange peel, runs or overspray. And I do examine the coaches very closely at rallies and RV shows.

Kerry
Primarily, the smoothness of the final finish. On the new Tour I looked at, you could feel all the ridges where the various colors are painted on. On mine, they wet sanded all those 'edges' then applied 3 more coats of clear. You cannot feel any ridges...it is baby butt smooth. Also, the lines are very clean on mine and the factory job I saw had some places where the color appeared to seep under the tape.

Among the fairly drab champaigns, muted greens, etc, our coach really stands out among those parked here for service.
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Old 09-28-2010, 10:31 AM   #8
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What is the name of the RV repair facility you are using? What all do they do?
Kurt's Complete Auto and RV Service.

641-430-4115

You may remember Kurt as the recently-departed director of the shop at Winnebago.

He has gone full-time on his own, despite the many protestations of Winnebago management, where he is well missed.

He is ASE Master Certified, and very knowledgable. He has a bit of a backlog, but will take appointments. The shop is large enough to fit coaches inside, and still have room for 6 cars. The Iowa River RV park, run by the city of Belmond, is a block away and is $10-$12 a night for full hookup. You can also park at Kurts for free, with no hookups.

He did a whole coach re-seal, coolant bottle retrofit, chassis service, generator service, chassis solenoid (Trombetta) change, re-glued the rear and front doors (again! but this time with a new adhesive he says will do it!) repaired the dash air, replaced the failed RVP basement air main board, re-attached a few body panel mounts that he found coming loose, and inspected the slide out glide blocks.

All of this in 2 days. He has the resources to do almost anything. I found him hard working and thoughtful.

So far, I am quite satisfied.
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Old 09-28-2010, 10:47 AM   #9
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We have an Ultimate Advantage; The heater core I replaced Twice; Then I had a Rad; shop build me one, that ended that problem. For removing the cap I made a cradle that would hold the cap. I put 4 wheels on it I could take it off in less then 30 minutes. I also made a bracket to hold the lines up and take the strain off the heater core. Some of those engineers Need to go back to picking fruit;; I do not wish to discredit anyone.. Just my discust with the QC.;
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Old 09-28-2010, 12:00 PM   #10
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Why does the front cap have to come off? I had my heater core replaced under warrenty so now I'm wondering if it might start leaking again
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Old 09-28-2010, 12:27 PM   #11
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smlranger: You made me go out and closely examine the paint on the 08 Tour.
Something has really changed. Mine has no ridges between colors. It's good work.
There is no excuse for the ridges you saw...and paint seeping under the tape is totally unacceptable. Colors, well, no sense of exterior style, camouflage is out.
Wasn't there a big announcement about the new quality control Manager recently?
Seems like, based on what you saw and touched, he's not the right person for the job. Very regretful situation. I want Winnebago to thrive!!
Anyway, thanks for the update.
Kerry
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Old 09-28-2010, 04:31 PM   #12
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BucknJeff be sure and do a write up on http://www.rvservicereviews.com so I will remember Kurts's the next time I am passing through the area.
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:59 PM   #13
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BucknJeff be sure and do a write up on http://www.rvservicereviews.com so I will remember Kurts's the next time I am passing through the area.
Excellent idea !

I also posted the Iowa River RV Park on rv park reviews dot com.

Thanks.
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Old 09-29-2010, 12:53 PM   #14
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TY BnJ!
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:09 PM   #15
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smlranger: You made me go out and closely examine the paint on the 08 Tour.
Something has really changed. Mine has no ridges between colors. It's good work.
There is no excuse for the ridges you saw...and paint seeping under the tape is totally unacceptable. Colors, well, no sense of exterior style, camouflage is out.
Wasn't there a big announcement about the new quality control Manager recently?
Seems like, based on what you saw and touched, he's not the right person for the job. Very regretful situation. I want Winnebago to thrive!!
Anyway, thanks for the update.
Kerry
I'm not suggesting the coach looked bad or that it was a bad paint job. I just was comparing it to the work done by the folks who recently painted mine. My paint job has some flaws but most folks wouldn't notice them.

CDI paints coaches for Winnebago. I have heard many folks compliment the work they do on FBP jobs.
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Old 10-02-2010, 02:40 PM   #16
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I have read somewhere that the heater core should be grounded with its own wire running from it to ground and that would stop the electolisis problem.
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Old 10-03-2010, 05:08 AM   #17
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I have read somewhere that the heater core should be grounded with its own wire running from it to ground and that would stop the electolisis problem.
That was suggested by the supplier of the core, SCS Fridgette. I grounded mine when I replaced it in 2006; still only lasted 4 years
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Old 10-03-2010, 10:38 PM   #18
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That was suggested by the supplier of the core, SCS Fridgette. I grounded mine when I replaced it in 2006; still only lasted 4 years
I wonder if they make a sacrifical zinc like we use on boats for it. That would be a better solution than just grounding the unit
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:51 AM   #19
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OK...this is Fran showing ignorance! What is a heater core?
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Old 10-04-2010, 06:35 AM   #20
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OUCHHHHH. David don't hide behind Fran you sly fox you....LOL
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