Another Basement Air Question

[GaDawgFan]

This is probably a dumb question, but how do I know when both compressors are running? I know that when hooked up to 50 amp or running off of the genset there is enough power to run both, but how do I confirm when both are running.

[GaDawgFan]

This is probably a dumb question, but how do I know when both compressors are running? I know that when hooked up to 50 amp or running off of the genset there is enough power to run both, but how do I confirm when both are running.

[JB Texas]

Listen for the "resonance" wah-wah sound. Otherwise, the only other way I know of is to take the cover off the electrical connection box (to the left of the unit - you have to lift the grille cover) and check the lights. Anyone???

[Joe-K]

If you are on 30 amp power or running off the generator, your EMS will display the amperage being drawn by the coach. Read the EMS meter for total current draw before starting the air conditioner and take a note of the reading as a baseline number.

Next start the A/C and read the power draw. The indoor blower and outdoor blower motors each draw around 3 amps, and each compressor draws about 9 amps.

If you see the amperage increase about 15 amps, from before the A/C was started, one compressor and the two blowers are running. If the amperage is 24 amps higher then the baseline, then both compressors and the blowers are running.

Of course those numbers are approximate as they will vary some based on ambient and indoor temperatures as well as the fan speed, but should give you an idea of whether 1 or 2 are running.

[Tom N]

Note the EMS Power Status A/C COMP #2. When connected to 30amps this light will indicate when A/C COMP #2 is running.

-Tom

[Omurray]

If your system is not cooling as well as you think it should, it could be the famous Winnebago duct tape failure. I just completed resealing the duct on my Journey and it made a big difference in the cooling.

[AFChap]

The easiest way to tell is to watch the amp readings, as others have indicated. On my EMS, you will see amp readings only when on 30a or generator power. The first compressor kicks on and amps go to somewhere around 15-18. NOTE there is apx 2 min delay after the first compressor kicks on before the second kicks on. AND, the second only kicks on if there is a temp differential (inside air vs thermostat setting) of more than 2 degrees I believe. If you stick your head out the door apx 2 min after the first compressor starts, you will hear the outside blower motor shut down, then kick back on with the startup of the second compressor. Then check the amp reading again. If the 2nd is running, the reading will be something around 23-24.

The power status lights that Tom mentioned indicated that power is "applied" and available to the item listed. They do not however mean that item is actually running. The only time we have seen any of the status lights turn off was when running on 30amp power and trying to run the microwave/coffee maker/toaster/hair dryer at the same time.

[Tenn.Vol.]

One of the ways I can tell if #2 comp. is on while on Gen. power.
Approx. 20sec. after the #1 comp power up, a relay in the thermostat
will click on, calling for #2 comp. At the same time the EMS system
amp display will drop down 2 amps. I assume that both comp. are ganged
together, and when #2 comes on line it lightens the load on #1 comp.
Say the amp meter read 14amps, and #2 comp. comes on line, amp.meter
drops to 12amps.

As I had trouble with my thermostat picking up the #2 comp. I have
some experience standing in front of the thermostat!!!!Tenn.Vol.

[skigramp]

While you are connected to 30 amps, disable the number 2 compressor by turning off the circuit breaker (mine is at the foot of the bed ... 2004 39W Jouney) and watching the EMS as it cyles the number 1 compressor through start up, sustained load, and fan only ....

turn off number 1 compressor by setting the thermostat above the current temperature ...

wait about 3 minutes after number 1 compressor shuts off then flip the circuit breaker for compressor 2 back on now set the thermostat at least 5 degrees below the current tempeature ... then watch the EMS ...

Now you should see the amperage for running the number 1 followed by the amperage for running number 1 and 2

{I can run my #1 compressor on a 20 amp circuit }

[03 CORVETTE]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Omurray:
If your system is not cooling as well as you think it should, it could be the famous Winnebago duct tape failure. I just completed resealing the duct on my Journey and it made a big difference in the cooling. </div></BLOCKQUOTE> i have an 06 adventurer and i found last nite that my duct is untaping about four feet up from the bend at the bottom............there is only maybe 4 inches from duct to inside back of the bus....how did you retape??? itlooks like bus was built around ducts.........jim k

[Charles99]

I would use Mastic. It is a product that AC installers put on Duct joints now. You can buy it at Lowes in the AC Duct section or at an AC supply house. Just put a paint brush on a 4 foot stick reach up in there and slop it on. The only other option is to take the rear cap off and re-do the connections.

[Oh-one]

03, This is a common problem with these units. Since yours is a 06 this will be covered by warranty and can be done by any Winnebago dealer.

[03 CORVETTE]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Oh-one:
03, This is a common problem with these units. Since yours is a 06 this will be covered by warranty and can be done by any Winnebago dealer. </div></BLOCKQUOTE> called winnebago im out by months they dont want to pay for removing the cap........this may take a while.......

[wagonmaster2]

Thanks for the suggestion for the use of Mastic, that sounds like an easier fix than removing the rear cap.
Wagonmaster2