Add an Outlet

emmmw · 09-16-2009, 02:55 PM

Our 35J is only 30 amps and we rarely have any issues with power, until my DW is using a hot plate or other portable heating item in the kitchen. I am thinking about adding an electrical outlet through the outside wall of our MH into the kitchen area so my DW can have a dedicated 15amp circuit by running an extension cord from a 15amp plug to the coach. Am I heading into bad territory here? Looking for suggestions before I get into trouble. I have done a search and found nothing at all.

tncruiser · 09-16-2009, 03:08 PM

15 amps on an extension cord is to much contact an electrian it would be far less costly than fire damage
brian j tn crusier

chipper1929 · 09-16-2009, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tncruiser

15 amps on an extension cord is to much contact an electrian it would be far less costly than fire damage
brian j tn crusier

Not if the cord is rated for 15 amps.

John Hilley · 09-16-2009, 03:47 PM

You could possibly wire a receptacle into the second AC circuit. There is a second circuit on the generator output that goes to the second AC. It is possible to intercept this circuit where it comes out of the generator and put in a receptacle. You can put in another receptacle terminated with a 20 amp cord and plug which can plug into the 20 amp receptacle on the power pedestal. Then put a 20 amp plug on the cable ging into the cach for the second AC. You can wire a kitchen receptacle into the AC wiring at a convenient place to access the kitchen. This will be safe electrically and water proof.

emmmw · 09-16-2009, 03:48 PM

Maybe my term "15 amps" isn't correct... what I want to do is to add an outlet that I can use from the regular 3-prong outlets that are typically provided on the pole under the 30 amp or 50 amp outlets in campgrounds. This is where I typically route my lights and other outside stuff. Can't imagine an electrician would be needed for this. What I'm more concerned about is cutting a hole through the side of our MH.

stearn · 09-16-2009, 04:05 PM

Can't you go thru the basement? Then you would have a place to store the cord, and it would be out of sight. I would think there would be room inside one of the kitchen cabinets entering thru the floor. Maybe even coming next to the existing wires where the you wouldn't need to make a new hole.

KIX · 09-16-2009, 04:24 PM

Instead of penetrating the wall of your moho have you looked to see if you can come up through the floor. Maybe mount the receptacle in the side of a cabinet. Terminate the receptacle wiring inside your electrical bay and then just carry a 15 amp cord to hook up to the park pedestal.
I would think what you suggest would work fine but use a 20 amp receptacle in your kitchen and mount it away from the sink. A 20 amp is different from a 15 amp and both are available at Home Depot. They will look quite similar.

Luv2go · 09-16-2009, 05:25 PM

Kix has a good point but a 20 amp receptacle will require minimum 12ga wire and a 20amp plug as well.

emmmw · 09-16-2009, 07:02 PM

Thanks everybody! I don't know why I hadn't thought of coming through the floor with existing wires and eliminating my fear of cutting a hole in the side. I got the idea from a family we camped close to all summer that had a trailer with a male plug outside and a receptacle immediately inside his kitchen area and I thought it was a pretty functional feature... especially for a 30amp coach to plug in extra stuff. But going through the basement is a much better idea and I'll crawl through it this weekend and let everybody know once I've got it done.

wa8yxm · 09-17-2009, 12:43 PM

I would recommend two things

1: an "electrical Hatch" This is (usually) a round thing that goes in the outside wall it has a door with a slider on it for the cord.

2: A TWELVE GUAGE cord.. Whoever says 15 amps on an extension cord is too much never used a 12 guage cord.. I have several of them You can get 12 ga cords up to 100 feet at Sears (Very good cords) K-mart, Lowes, and Home Depot among other places.

Now.. You have absolutly NO wiring to do,, Just stuff one end of the cord through the hole and you are done.

John Mo · 09-17-2009, 12:59 PM

The kitchen on the 35J is right over a compartment with an electrical outlet and a port in the bottom for running electrical cords from that outlet to the outside. A lot of the coach's electricals are behind and beneath the cabinets in the kitchen. Should be very easy to run an extension cord up through the compartment and into the kitchen.

Theberrys · 09-17-2009, 02:26 PM

It might be best to install a GFCI outlet on the new line just to be safe. It costs a bit more but in the kitchen going directly to the post outside it's a good idea. Home Depot, Lowes and any hardware store will have them.

Dick

pace89 · 09-17-2009, 06:59 PM

I have added a receptacle in the water service bay. It is still subject to the 30amp service from the pedestal but is independently fused. I tied in at the box (12/3 wire) where the service enters the coach. Line goes to a bulb socket (hot wire across the socket). In the bulb socket I inserted a 15amp resetable circuit breaker, then it goes to a GFCI receptacle, it then goes to a lighted (Pilot Light on/off) switch on the bedroom wall. In the receptacle in the water bay I keep a box heater. When it gets to where I need heat in the water bay I can turn the heater on set as needed & control power to the heater/receptacle with switch in the bedroom. If heat is not needed & I just need 110 on that side of the coach (especialy if on the road/dry camping with jenny) I also can control power to the receptacle. A similar installation could be routed to the location of your choice. If interested photos at:

Picasa Web Albums - Terry & Bev + Cookie

Theberrys · 09-17-2009, 07:31 PM

Terry
Great mods. Looks like the coach is two hobbies in one. The floor really adds to the overall look. Thanks for the photos.
Dick

jdsr · 09-17-2009, 08:05 PM

If Im understanding your post, the only problem you are having is in the kit when you overload your breaker by plugging in to much at one time. My mh ac breaker box is mounted on cabinet at end of kit. Why not just run a piece of romex from A new outlet in your kit to the breaker box and install a new breaker(if there's a spare slot for another breaker) or dbl up on one that you wouldnt be using at the same time as the outlet in the kit. This would not work if your total demand would be 30 amps or more at the same time. But IMO if you need the extra 15 amps you could run the cable back to the elec comp in mh and use the seperate recp at the campground box to feed new cable. There are several other ways you could do it safely, but again it would depend on your needs.

emmmw · 09-17-2009, 08:18 PM

jdsr, My issue really is a total demand issue that occasionally puts us at or over 30 amps. I'm really just trying to get one more independent line into the kitchen without running a cord through a window.

A lot of great ideas provided and I appreciate them. I think John Mo and a couple others have the answer I was looking for and just didn't think about coming up through the basement into the kitchen for the outlet and running a separate extension cord from the post into that basement compartment.

I'll take a look at that this weekend and will shoot some pictures when I complete it. This isn't an absolute need, but once in a while when my wife has a rice cooker and a hot plate running in the kitchen while the ACs are both running and then the water heater kicks on we blow a fuse.

My thought is that when we are camping with full service and good electricity it could help to give her some independent power.

Thanks guys!