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Old 03-27-2017, 08:47 AM   #1
PHS
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A/C problems

Hi all
New to the motorhome scene. We are retired and looking forward to many trips. We purchased an older motorhome to make sure we were going to enjoy traveling in one. We purchased a 2002 Winnebago Brave 32V one owner with 38K on it about a month ago. We now have over 40K it. Everything seemed to work fine. We are getting ready to take about a 2 week trip to Florida this coming Thursday, so I was checking everything out. One of the A/C units will not turn on, it did work fine when we tried it during purchase. The fan or nothing will turn on, even in on (hand) the fan will not run. I have check breakers and fuses. Anybody have any ideas were to start looking? Also I just notice the previous owner removed the satellite dish and just left the screw holes in the top without sealing them. What should I use to seal these holes. We live in a very small town so can I use silicone to seal the holes until we can get the correct sealant?
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Old 03-27-2017, 10:59 AM   #2
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:welcome:

Does your RV have 50 amp or 30 amp shore cord? A 50A service is actually 2 legs of 50A 120v power, for a total of 100A of 120v. A 30A service is only one leg of 30A power. Since a single AC usually needs close to 15A or more to start, usually two AC in a 30A RV won't operate together without the generator or an electrical management system that controls the AC so they don't start or run at the same time.

If you have a digital thermostat, check the manual for it to be sure it's set correctly for two zones of heat/cool. If you don't have a paper manual, use Google to search for the manual for your make/model thermostat to review settings.

Silicon caulk is not suggested for filling holes or caulking, it will fail and nothing sticks to the residue left by the silicon. If the roof is a EDPM membrane, Dicor self leveling caulk will fill and seal the holes. Another option would be to use Eternabond tape. If the roof is fiberglass, Bondo or other fiberglass fill will work, however touch up with paint may be needed to prevent UV degradation.
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Old 03-27-2017, 11:10 AM   #3
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You should be OK with a silicone sealer. Outdoor use. Non-acidic. If it smells like vinegar it has acetic acid in it.

Can't help with your AC. Sorry.
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Old 03-27-2017, 11:27 AM   #4
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DO NOT USE SILICON on your roof. Seal either with Eternabond or a caulking made specifically for that purpose. Shame on the PO.
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Old 03-27-2017, 11:33 AM   #5
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Once you use silicone, nothing else will stick there, including silicone, so you have to completely remove the caulk before resealing. I am in the process of doing that on my used camper that the PO put silicone on and it is a royal pain. You have to remove the fitting in order to scrape the surface, use a razor blade to get most off, then alley 3m silicone remover then sand the surface lightly, then putt the fitting back on and seal with decor or eternabond.. ickkk
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Old 03-27-2017, 01:55 PM   #6
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It has 30 amp service, BFlinn that might just be the problem it was hooked up to shore service the time both A/Cs were running. Also I noticed on the generator panel it only has A/C#2 listed. Where do you get Dicor or Eternabond ?
Thanks for the replies.
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Old 03-27-2017, 03:18 PM   #7
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Dicor and Eternabond can be purchased and shipped from Amazon, Camping World, Grainger, etc. Also available at Home Depot and the like. If your generator is a 5500 watt unit, it can run both A/C at once.
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Old 03-27-2017, 05:55 PM   #8
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Thanks BFlinn my generator is a 5500 but only one A/C will run so maybe I still have a problem? Also love your 2000 TDI Beetle. I am on my 5th VW Diesel had one of the buy back emission scandal cars.
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Old 03-27-2017, 06:15 PM   #9
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Check that both circuit breakers on the generator are on. (trip and reset) Some RVs without an automatic transfer switch require the output of the generator be plugged into an outlet the shore cord is usually plugged into.
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Old 03-27-2017, 06:23 PM   #10
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Ok....some one educate me..... 2002 WBGO Brave has a fiberglass roof. OP said the PO removed the satellite dish leaving open screw holes. Why can't you use a gob of silicone caulking to seal thes small openings?????????
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Old 03-27-2017, 07:16 PM   #11
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Silicon caulk will fail. As I and others have said, a later proper fix will need extra effort to remove the silicon that can prevent things bonding. When silicon caulk was first marketed in the '60's, it was sold as a long term solution to caulking needs. Many boat owners (including my Dad) used it on seams and joints on boats. It gathered dirt and looked bad, and eventually fell out of the seams. Trying to paint and repair where the silicon had been was a nightmare. I never use it except sealing aquariums (with the appropriate aquarium silicon) Much better products are now made, that are flexible, long lasting, and don't cause later bonding/painting issues where silicon was used.

On a hard fiberglass surface, holes won't shrink or expand much, why use a flexible product? Bondo or resin with chopped fiberglass, JB Weld or Liquid Steel epoxy based fillers are much better repairs.
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
Check that both circuit breakers on the generator are on. (trip and reset) Some RVs without an automatic transfer switch require the output of the generator be plugged into an outlet the shore cord is usually plugged into.
x 2 On the generator unit itself there are usually two breakers. Not the ones in you electrical panel, but in the generator bay.
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHS View Post
Thanks BFlinn my generator is a 5500 but only one A/C will run so maybe I still have a problem? Also love your 2000 TDI Beetle. I am on my 5th VW Diesel had one of the buy back emission scandal cars.


Love VW's TDI to and have had 5. Just got a check for $4400 from VW on the settlement and will get an additional $2200. And that on a 2015 that I paid 20k for. Manna from heaven.
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Old 03-28-2017, 09:08 PM   #14
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PHS, your 2004 Brave has a roof built the same as my 2004 Chieftain; it is firberglass. Around the vents, sat dish,etc Winnebago uses self-leveling sealant. That stuff works really well and after 13.5 yrs, I have had ZERO problems with all those joints.

Here's what Camping World sells:http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...t-white-/32126

When my coach was brand new it was delivered with a 6 in crack in the fiberglass roof radius above the entry door. The dealer repaired the fiberglass but then used silicone to seal the roof to gutter joint. I have been fighting that 3 ft section because nothing sticks there for any length of time. Silcone on the roof to sidewall joint can be a royal pain in the a$$.

Go to the Winnebago website and download the service guide for the roof-to-sidewall sealing procedure. Ignoring that maintenance can cause a whole section of fiberglass to launch in a strong head or side wind. That seam uses a urethane sealer.

Good luck on the a/c unit. I have the basement unit different than your roof units. Since it just not coming on, the cause should be relatively straightforward to fix.

Enjoy your Brave,
Bill
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Old 03-28-2017, 09:45 PM   #15
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PHS, on your coach the front A/C is fed directly from the breaker panel when on shore or generator power. The rear A/C when on shore power is fed from the breaker panel through the ATS (auto transfer switch) to the rear A/C unit, when on generator power one power leg of the generator feeds the breaker panel and the other power leg feeds the rear A/C unit through the ATS. Hope this helps a little.
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