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Old 04-14-2022, 11:42 AM   #1
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2019 View Weboost cell booster install without roof port

Hello, has anyone installed the Weboost cell repeater in their 2019 or even 2018 Winnebago View (as no changes between these models)? I have the 24V as an fyi.

I am having a dickens of a time finding an entrance to the rig without drilling (something I won’t do). I have found a few possibilities, one going under the RV into the wet bay and then routing the cable under the beds to below the fridge.

And the other was running the outside cable fully under the rig to the right under the drivers seat that has all the cables that route up to under the seat. Only problem with that is once so get it under the seat, I will have to install the booster there and I’m limited on where I could place inside antenna.


Any assistance would be greatly appreciated if anyone has done this already!
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Old 04-14-2022, 01:54 PM   #2
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Not done that specific work but one big thing on RV is how lightweight and simple the construction can be.
That idea opens up lots of different methods if we get lucky. So I might suggest looking at spaces which may be there for wires but hidden if we don't look really close. The cabinets are one that I used a lot as they are often made, not of solid wood, but a "sandwith" which may look solid while it is actually two thin layers on a lightweight frame.

When I wanted to run wires, I found it worked really well to use a really small pry bar to get underneath the edge of the inner layer and tease it off the framing. Then to replace, I had a heavy duty stapler that was plenty strong to drive staples through the thin panels to replace them.

Maybe a bit of looking finds a cabinet to come up in without the wires showing?
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Old 04-14-2022, 02:58 PM   #3
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We have the 2021 24V. It was supplied with a roof access port just behind the kitchen TV. Basically it a pre drilled opening thru roof to a dog house on the roof. At the dog house the idea is to drill in to the horizontal surface and caulk the opening. At least that is how I installed the cable. I think it will OK.

Not saying you have the preinstalled roof port but looking online it looks like the 2019 models were supplied with one?
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Old 04-14-2022, 03:20 PM   #4
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@Sparky-Yeah they did start them on certain models. The view and navion didn't start adding the roof port until either 2020 or 2021 models. I was looking at the solar port to possibly bring it in, but wow, not happening as that hole through the roof is small.



@Richard-, I pretty much know every nook and cranny of the wiring pathways inside, it’s why I know it’s next to near impossible to get from the ‘cab’ section into the living section with wiring. I appreciate you getting back to me. Hopefully someone that has done this already will have an idea on what they did. Small sampling of the many nooks and crannies.



BTW the front cab I already had that apart to add a additional monitor (for the GPS/Rear Camera) and I added speakers under the top bed, doors and tweeters. In the coach living side I added an additional outlet in the cabinet under sink, and Aisle lighting through the coach and bathroom. A new water pump and removed the ridiculous bed supports that allowed the bed to be ‘raised’, which never was a stable solution.

The only options Winnebago has done is add another solar panel and a rear table.


Thanks for the suggestions and attempt to assist. Happy travels.
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Old 04-14-2022, 05:32 PM   #5
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Would you consider something like this?https://www.amazon.com/Link-Solar-We...s%2C125&sr=8-4
Or this one for a single cable,https://www.amazon.com/KING-CE2000-P...%2C103&sr=8-22
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Old 04-14-2022, 06:55 PM   #6
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I have one installed on my 2017 Adventurer. But I did drill a hole in the front fiberglass cap and then used a cable entry cover plate.

https://www.campingworld.com/outdoor...oax-28929.html

It's not a big deal, and no, it doesn't leak. There is nothing in the radius of the front of your cap.
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Old 04-14-2022, 07:53 PM   #7
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@Sparkie-That’s a great idea if I was going to drill into the roof. Something I’m definitely not comfortable doing. I think I’ll be going through the wet bay underneath. I really do appreciate you finding those for me. Thanks for the assist. Ken
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Old 04-14-2022, 07:55 PM   #8
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@Creativepart- I also appreciate that you shared what you installed. For me I’m just not comfortable with doing anything to my roof. Maybe it’s the fact my first and second RV’s had serious roof issues that have totally scared me from ever trying to do anything with an RV roof. Now granted since those two RV’s, roofing technology has definitely come a long way too.
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Old 04-15-2022, 07:44 AM   #9
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Actually, what I suggested doesn’t really apply to your RV. On rereading I see you have a View. For some reason I thought you had a Class A, which has a front fiberglass cap. Class C RVs don’t really have an empty front cap like the Class A does. So my suggestion was really a non-starter. Sorry.
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Old 04-20-2022, 04:23 PM   #10
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weboost

I have seen some people route through the fridge vent from the side under the vent cover.
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Old 04-20-2022, 04:30 PM   #11
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Hello Coachz, that would be a great idea, only problem is on this rig, no refrigerator vent exists. All DC powered so no need for a vent. I finally started running the cable through the wet bay and behind the control panel cover. I unfortunately need an additional 10’ of cable that should complete the install. The 30’ was just shy about 6 feet. On order and once in I should be complete. Such is life…

Thanks for the idea though.
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Old 04-20-2022, 04:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Databoy01 View Post
Hello, has anyone installed the Weboost cell repeater in their 2019 or even 2018 Winnebago View (as no changes between these models)? I have the 24V as an fyi.

I am having a dickens of a time finding an entrance to the rig without drilling (something I won’t do). I have found a few possibilities, one going under the RV into the wet bay and then routing the cable under the beds to below the fridge.

And the other was running the outside cable fully under the rig to the right under the drivers seat that has all the cables that route up to under the seat. Only problem with that is once so get it under the seat, I will have to install the booster there and I’m limited on where I could place inside antenna.


Any assistance would be greatly appreciated if anyone has done this already!
My 2008 WB Destination it was routed roof (yes I had to drill) into an area where the power monitor area is got 12v there. Inside antenna is by TV. I don’t believe you can get around not drilling.
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Old 04-20-2022, 06:07 PM   #13
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I have a WeBoost 65 V which had an extending pool (35 feet) so I only use it when stopped. As a result, I pull the cable thru the window and use foam rubber to call the windows. Works great. A possible use for the mobile version ???
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Old 04-20-2022, 06:22 PM   #14
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I see that you're pretty much done by now, but you can route all cables down the fresh water air vent pipe and drill a hole to fish it out where you need it.

I look forward to your later post about the WeBoost 65 V. Thanks - Ken
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Old 04-21-2022, 07:33 AM   #15
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Installed a CCrane WiFi booster on 2012 24M wo drilling any holes. Modified a Dish TV Satellite Antenna mount and clamped it to the top of the roof ladder with "J" bolts. Replaced the dish with the vertical booster antenna mounted to the collapsible tube with 2 "U" clamps. Replaced the Dish hex nuts w wing nuts to allow the booster antenna to be raised and lowered by climbing up the ladder. Tie wrapped the cable to the ladder and routed under the chassis inside plastic wire wrap conduit to the hole under the drivers seat.


For interior surface wiring, checkout 3/8 inch plastic wiremold at Home Depot, the tan color matched my interior color and has a nice finished look, avoids drilling holes. Attaches w double sticky tape.


Using booster/repeater to compose this reply. Only downside is to remember to lower the antenna before moving, total height off the ground, about 14 feet.
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Old 04-21-2022, 07:37 AM   #16
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What got lost in this (for me) is how you mounted your outside antenna without drilling the holes you are committed to avoiding? Thanks.
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Old 04-21-2022, 08:39 AM   #17
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What got lost in this (for me) is how you mounted your outside antenna without drilling the holes you are committed to avoiding? Thanks.
Sorry, I'm 1200 miles from the PC with photos of the installation. The ladder vertical tubes curve around the rear top corner of the RV roof and offer a distance of about a foot parallel (horizontal) with the roof. I got a 4 foot length of aluminum channel stock from home depot and cut two pieces to bridge the two horizontal ladder tubes and attached them to the ladder tubes with four (2 for each piece of channel) "J" hooks, also from Home Depot. I put a piece of silicon rubber gasket material between the ladder tubes and channel to prevent damaging the finish on the ladder tubes and 4 lengths of shrink tubing over the "J" hooks. There is no metal to metal contact.



The two pieces of aluminum channel were spaced to accommodate the mounting holes on the Dish TV antenna base. The cable from the booster/repeater was routed thru the Dish TV mast, I left a loop of cable at the bottom of the mast to allow for the raising and lowering of the mast. The cable was protected from staffing against the sharp edge of the mast open pipe by taking the outside insulation off of a piece of 10 gauge wire, splitting one side lengthwise (a horizontal gromet) and gluing it to the circumference of the open pipe with silicon rubber. The cable was routed down the ladder using plastic conduit tie wrapped to the ladder. Once under the RV, I followed the trailer hitch wiring to the drivers side entry. In my rig the wiring harness was routed to the rear of the slide, close to the center of the vehicle.
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Old 04-21-2022, 09:00 AM   #18
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Thank you for your very comprehensive answer. There is much here that I can use. I have seen the ladder installation for the external antenna in a number of posts. Unfortunately, all it does for me is create ladder envy (my rig doesn't have one) LOL.
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Old 04-25-2022, 02:49 PM   #19
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Well I finally finished the project and I also added a lighted switch, so I know to turn it off when dry camping. I did go through the wet bay as shown in the images, then ran the cable under the beds and up behind the refrigerator, the horizontal to the AV cabinet behind the TV for the booster. I used the 12V adapter to power it and used the switch as shown. Thanks everyone for your ideas, help and assistance!
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