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Old 09-24-2018, 06:30 PM   #21
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Xphoneguy,
Quote:
Originally Posted by xphoneguy View Post
Yes the frig ran totally differently... originally it ran a full on/off cycle every 3 minutes and wouldn't run a full cycle at all at 12.1Volts.
When you say 'originally', did you have the thermostat replaced first or was the fuse removal the only change that was made? Also, is a 'full cycle' sequencing from on to off to on again or some other sequence?

Thanks again!

Wayne
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Old 09-25-2018, 02:33 PM   #22
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Waynee,

I did not have my thermostat replaced. During the investigation of the problem Winnebago told me the only issue they were aware of were some thermostat replacements. by "originally" I meant before I removed the fuse. The fuse removal was the only change that was made - it made all the difference.

Yes, a full cycle was a constant on, off, on. That sequence starting on then to off and back to on was what I meant by a full cycle. It was happening every 3 minutes no matter what the temperature was set at.
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Old 09-25-2018, 04:35 PM   #23
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Xphoneguy,


Thanks again for the information update. At this point, I think I've developed a good understanding of the refrig's operation and what to expect. Removal of the subject fuse should complete the process and I can put this subject to rest!


Thanks again!


Wayne
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Old 10-05-2018, 04:16 PM   #24
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Mine would run one night on batteries and solar, but we'd be dead in the water by bedtime the 2nd night.


I'll look into this... my fridge has never really been "right", and this might be a possible reason!


Thanks!
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Old 10-28-2018, 01:42 PM   #25
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2019 N24J Update: The following synopsis is operation mainly connected to shore power with multiple all day driving periods. As of yet, I have not had the opportunity to do any dry camping.

Upon delivery (April 2018) my Norcold DE0061 refrigerator had a faulty thermostat. It would exhibit ~ 40 įF temperature swings and was not able to preserve food.

After replacement, good temperatures were able to be maintained in both refrigerator and freezer compartments. Like others, it would cycle on and off every 5 minutes, 24x7.

On this forum, I read about the fuse issue. While my MH was at the dealer for other warranty work, I asked them to let me know Winnebago's position on the fuse removal/replacement issue.

Winnebago authorized the dealer to replace what I understand was the as-delivered glass type fuse in question with a flat type (NEC?) fuse. When I next turned on the refrigerator, it initially started to cool for about 30 minutes and then totally stopped working.

I have an appointment with the dealer to solve the problem.
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Old 10-28-2018, 01:58 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by xphoneguy View Post
Just wondering if anyone out there has a 2018 View with the non propane, 12V electrical only, refrigerator and is having trouble with running it all night when not plugged into shore power as I am.

I have kept a log and even set at a low setting, the refrigerator runs a full on/off cycle every 3 minutes. My stock batteries are discharged in about 6 hours to a level of 12.3V. At that point the refrigerator doesn't cycle correctly. Normally I can hear a click at the beginning and end of the cycle but once it reaches 12.3V, I no longer hear the click and the thing just runs, slows down and then runs but it really doesn't sound quite the same. Once the batteries reach 12.1V, the refrigerator totally shuts off.

I had a night that was cold so had to run the furnace some. In the morning I didn't even have enough battery to start the generator. Winnebago is saying I could have a faulty temp sensor for the refrigerator.

Just looking for some input from some other 2018 View owners in regard to how often their refrigerators cycle and if they are having trouble with the batteries lasting overnight. I am contemplating beefing up the stock batteries with 2 much heavier batteries with a total of 300 amp hours but also need to adapt the battery compartment as they are too tall to fit.
I have a 2018 Fuse with the same refrigerator and while I have not had this problem I would be interested in knowing how long you can boon dock without running your batteries down now that you have this fix.
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Old 10-29-2018, 11:02 AM   #27
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Wayneey,


Bummer! We are back from a very long road trip in our 18V24D. Lots of dry camping along the way. Synopsis, with the two T-1275 batteries I can dry camp and run the CPAP all night but still know the refrigerator is drawing too much power. I was very hopeful the fuse thing would solve the issue. Strange that you had a different response than Xphoneguy. Also interesting they told him the fuse was unnecessary and replaced yours with a different fuse


By now I was hoping WGO would have a constant and same response for the fridge repair. It does seem the complaints have faded somewhat but now the supposed "final fix" has killed the unit... Way down south in Dixie we call that failure. Two years shipping the unit.


Along the way as you know we had Tstat replaced, then the entire refrigerator replaced. And...when I defrosted upon return from the long trip I found they had once again kinked the stupid drain hose, not draining, water went everywhere. Second time on that one.


Now I was just about to set up my trip to the dealer when I read your post. I suppose I can give it a shot, several things to do like replace the Air Cond unit and those nagging new rig fixes but I would really like to see the refrigerator issue put to rest. Think I will get the oil change kit and tread water for a few weeks to see what shakes out. I hope the replacement fuse caused the failure in some way. Not happy you have the problem but sure as heck am waiting for the resolution. Please keep us posted.


BTW, our DE0061 keeps great temps with the air dam in place, no complaint there at all. The thing is working but it killed the OEM dinky batteries fast which led me to go with the T-1275 for 300AH. They handle the load but if WGO is correct this fridge should run all week with a little solar boost on those 300AH batteries. As it is they need a generator run and solar every day, a lot more draw than the engineering docs state.


Whew! As noted before we learned there are "variants" of the refrigerator in the wild and in place in our new View units. What we can't get a handle on is the exact engineering differences in the "variants" in this design and why some units give absolutely no issue and why does Xphoneguy's unit work with NO fuse and they put one in yours etc..


Waiting for the dust to settle...
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Old 10-31-2018, 04:03 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kayak73 View Post
As noted before we learned there are "variants" of the refrigerator in the wild and in place in our new View units.
To your point, a friend with an 18V24J had the fuse removed and the refrigerator didn't run at all. The green idiot light was on and that was it. Re-inserted the fuse and it ran fine.

In my case, when I turned the refrigerator on, it ran for about 2 hours and then flat stopped. Makes one wonder how the dealer tested it after replacing the fuse. Also makes me wonder if the fuse ruptured.

When I bring it back for additional service, I'm going to formally request the refrigerator be replaced. Be interesting to hear the response.

Wayne
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Old 11-04-2018, 08:27 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xphoneguy View Post

As far as removing the trim... 1st this should be a warranty issue and then it is up to the dealer to remove. If you want to try it yourself, the bottom just pulls off. The left side is not to hard. Push on the outside and slightly bend it towards you while trying to push it towards the frig to remove the trim from the clips that hold it. It is tricky. The right side is the same method but is harder because of the door hinges. If you take off the door, you can probably do it much easier.

Good Luck
My View was built in March 2018 but it is a 2019 model. I could see the fuse behind the top grill. I also noticed a side access panel cut in the side wall of the adjacent pantry/closet (Model 24V, I don't know if this is the case for 2018 models or other View floorplans).

Once I removed the access panel I can easily access the fuse. Glad I can go this route, I notice the refrigerator has a tether cable secured to the back. The refrigerator might have come out an inch if I tried to pull it out.
Also, verified there is a 15 amp fuse at the coach fuse panel that also protects this power feed.
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Old 01-05-2019, 09:07 PM   #30
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@ Kayak --- Re. Air Dam

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kayak73 View Post
Wayneey,
BTW, our DE0061 keeps great temps with the air dam in place, no complaint there at all.
Waiting for the dust to settle...

What is the "Air Dam? Where is it located in the refrigerator?



Thanks,


My thermostat was replaced in Aug 2017 along with removing the fuse on top of refrigerator. At forest City a week after I bought the 18 ND. So they have knowen about this problem a very long time. My refrigerator runs 10 minutes on and 10 minutes off. set at 4.1
We also have the access panel in the pantry on the side wall on the 2018 Navion D


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Old 01-06-2019, 03:42 PM   #31
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DC Refrigerator in 2018 Navion

Removed the fuse from top of refrigerator.
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Old 01-11-2019, 03:34 PM   #32
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When I bring it back for additional service, I'm going to formally request the refrigerator be replaced. Be interesting to hear the response.
Wayne
When I brought the Navion back to the dealer, I reviewed the history of the refrigerator (which the dealer was familiar with) and requested the unit be replaced under warranty. After testing by the dealer they agreed and sent their recommendation to Winnebago to replace the unit. Due to some confusion related to who (Norcold or Winnebago) was responsible for authorizing the replacement (don't even think about asking more!) agreement was reached and a new refrigerator was shipped and installed on January 3rd. I picked it up the next day.

To monitor the new refrig's performance I parked the Navion in front of my house for a few days. When I parked, the batteries were fully charged and I decided to run on batteries only. After the first night (Friday) the batteries were about 50% discharged. The next day (Saturday) I ran some errands and ran the generator (propane version) a bit. The weather was scattered clouds so the solar didn't fully recharge but there was enough power to run another night. There was one isolated hiccup at about 10:45 AM but it didn't seem to repeat itself.

Followed the same routine on Sunday, which was mostly cloudy. I ran the generator quite a bit but when I stopped for the night forgot to turn off the propane valve. The resulting current draw was too much for the stock house batteries. As a result, you can see on the temperature charts where the batteries got so low (9.8V in the morning) the refrigerator turned off. While I drove around doing errands and running the generator, the refrig recovered nicely.

All in all, I'm confident enough with the new frig to start my next trip in a few weeks.

On a separate note, while I wasn't able to watch the new refrig being installed I was able to take a photo of the old refrig in it's carton waiting to be returned to Norcold. Previously the round glass barrel shaped fuse was replaced with the flat one shown.

The 2nd photo shows the new refrig installed, to best of my knowledge, as delivered from Norcold, with the same type fuse. I need to confirm this with the dealer, i.e., that they didn't make any mods to the fuse assembly.

This go me thinking that I just don't understand how the type of fuse or having or not having a fuse would affect the normal operation of the refrigerator as has been discussed. I would really appreciate understanding what I'm missing here ...

In the meantime, I'm going to put together an air dam barrier, go on my next trip, and consider the refrigerator a done deal ...

Wayne
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Old 01-11-2019, 04:06 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayneey View Post
... snip ...
This go me thinking that I just don't understand how the type of fuse or having or not having a fuse would affect the normal operation of the refrigerator as has been discussed. I would really appreciate understanding what I'm missing here ...
... snip ...
Wayne
Iím with you, Wayne. I have not removed the fuse on mine because I just donít understand how it might render the refrigerator haywire. Iíve even monitored the temperature of the fuse with an infrared thermometer and see virtually no change in it with the refrigerator running or idle.

Meanwhile, Iíve learned to simply adjust my homemade air dam to essentially regulate the temps in the refrigerator and freezer sections. That worked wonderfully well last summer for about five months straight as well as a few shorter trips/stays in the View. My goal is to keep the refrigerator 38-40į and the freezer at 5-8į. Works consistently well enough to call it good!
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:57 PM   #34
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Removed the glass fuse on top of Refrigerator

When I looked at the wire feeding the refrigerator I found the fuse had not been removed as I was told by WBC. So I cut it out the fuse and wire nut the wires back together. The wire cover coming out of the fuse was burn and the glass fuse was discolored from the heat. 18 Navion D
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Old 01-12-2019, 10:20 AM   #35
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The wire cover coming out of the fuse was burn and the glass fuse was discolored from the heat. 18 Navion D
Makes me wonder if there's a problem with the original fuse fixture itself, e.g., some condition that allows the fixture to overheat. I seem to remember reading a post on another forum where the OP said shaking the fuse fixture caused the DE-0061 to turn off. An intermittent connection of some sort that generates arcing ... ?
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Old 01-28-2019, 08:45 AM   #36
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I have a 2019 Navion D. In see an access panel inside the adjacent cabinet. As I look thru the grill, I don't see any fuse but I do see what could be a splice 1/2 way over the back edge of the refer itself so I cannot say what was actually done. I have been dry camping for the past week now. My batteries ( stock) will be at 11.8 or there about in the morn ing with them at appx 12.6-9 when I go to bed. It is also cold enough I have my furnace set to 68 and it cycles on and off to hold, so I know that fan is drawing some juice as well but I don't know how much. I hear that fan go on once in a while thru the night but I do not notice the refer cycling very often. No problem maintaining cold temp in refer. I'm guessing WB made the mod on mine when built (7-18)
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Old 01-29-2019, 03:16 PM   #37
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It is also cold enough I have my furnace set to 68 and it cycles on and off to hold, so I know that fan is drawing some juice as well but I don't know how much. (7-18)
The propane solenoid draws 2 AH which will use a fair amount of power overnight, unless you have the power saving mod installed. Of course, that's better than freezing ...


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Old 02-05-2019, 01:24 PM   #38
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Why not turn the refer off at night? Won't lose much cold if the doors are tight and the seals good.
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Old 04-16-2019, 07:48 AM   #39
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I just purchased a new 2018 View & could not be more surprised to find the refrigerator alone is draining the batteries overnight. I do a lot of dry camping & this is a huge problem.

Winnebago sent me this response to the problem:
Subject: RE: 10X54781 - 2018 View questions

Dear Robert,

When you get the coach to the dealer what they are going to do is pull the fridge out the opening and back by the T-stat there is an in-line glass fuse. The dealer is going to eliminate that glass fuse and install an in-line blade fuse. What is happening is the glass fuse is acting like a resettable breaker. Once it heats up a little it will shut the compressor down, once the fuse cools it will then bring the compressor back on causing the fridge to short cycle draining the battery much faster than normal. This is a situation that we have ran into with another coach and this was the cure.

I returned it twice to the dealer. First visit they said the fuse, refrigerator & batteries were fine & I should just adapt to it.

Were you able to upgrade your batteries? The latest version of the View is including Group 31 batteries w/ 2000 w inverter in place of the Group 24 batteries & 1000 w inverter, but I have not be able to get Winnebago to reply possibility of making this change.
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Old 04-16-2019, 09:36 AM   #40
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I have a new 2019 D, built in December. I installed two golf cart batteries. I have a very accurate battery monitor. It is set to show 0%, when the batteries are half discharged. Running my fridge overnight, I typically use about 50% of my safe usable battery. This means I have really used 25% of my total battery capacity. The fridge cycles on and off frequently, as this is the way a low draw compressor works best. I am set at #4 on the fridge and it keeps the freezer at, or below, 10 degrees.



Overall, the fridge works well and two golf cart batteries are plenty for overnight use. Next step for me would be two lithium batteries, to essentially double the battery capacity.
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