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Old 03-08-2020, 06:13 PM   #21
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gipper11, any time your static test probe lights on the neutral side of the plug the neutral is floating (not connected to the common buss in the breaker panel). More than likely the neutral has come loose in one of the splitter boxes or the connector after the inverter. As shown in the drawing above.
The reason the test probe lights is because it is seeing the voltage potential being passed through a device plugged into the circuit.
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Old 03-09-2020, 02:14 AM   #22
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I had a similar problem with my 2014 Reyo P (4 receptical out). After I bypassed my inverter input/output AC plugs at the inverter, all receptical worked. Have yet to fix the inverter. Larry 2014 Reyo P
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Old 03-09-2020, 04:45 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhodesaz View Post
I looked at my Itasca outlet once. What I saw inside scared me. Not normal!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JZPu3WPoFivL4Avo9
This is very typical of RV and mobile home type of receptacles and switches. They use "pinch" instead of wire breaks with wire nuts. Saves a lot of space.
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Old 03-09-2020, 07:14 AM   #24
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Sounds like the identical problem I had on my '17 J a couple years ago. Drove me crazy trying to figure it out Ended up replacing the inside (near floor) GFCI outlet (with a higher quality one), and that solved the problem.
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Old 03-09-2020, 07:33 AM   #25
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Dang, I'm going through something very similar right now. All of a sudden I notice that all of the receptacles controlled by the inverter are out - happened this morning. It's the second time this extended trip.

I don't have any idea what's causing it, but my solution has been to turn off everything in the RV and then turn off the shore power and turn it back on = works like a champ.


This leads me to believe that the inverter is working, the GFIC on the inverter has not tripped i.e. I didn't have to reset it.

When the problem is occurring, the voltage on the inverter panel in the RV reads 12.5 to 13.0 volts, o.oo on current and.10 on "output."

So, what is it that turning off the shore power is doing? It must be an auto reset on something but I have no idea what.

Morich - thoughts? The inverter is new as of 9/2018
Thanks
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Old 03-09-2020, 09:57 AM   #26
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Sounds like there is a relay in the inverter which switches from using battery power to make the 110AC to using regular 110 coming in over the shore power cord. One would have to look at the inverter internal drawing to see but my guess would be there is some form of mini "transfer switch" inside the inverter. Likely not called a transfer switch but doing the same action? If it is getting just a bit funky on the transfer sensing, a bit of sudden voltage change when powering up on shore power may be kicking it's reaction.
Just theory with little actual looking, though! Whether these are solid state or actual mechanical relays is something I've never looked into.
Got a make and model for the inverter handy? I would not mind actually looking for info on it, as a better option to guessing!
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Old 03-09-2020, 01:33 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Upinsmoke View Post
Dang, I'm going through something very similar right now. All of a sudden I notice that all of the receptacles controlled by the inverter are out - happened this morning. It's the second time this extended trip.

I don't have any idea what's causing it, but my solution has been to turn off everything in the RV and then turn off the shore power and turn it back on = works like a champ.


This leads me to believe that the inverter is working, the GFIC on the inverter has not tripped i.e. I didn't have to reset it.

When the problem is occurring, the voltage on the inverter panel in the RV reads 12.5 to 13.0 volts, o.oo on current and.10 on "output."

So, what is it that turning off the shore power is doing? It must be an auto reset on something but I have no idea what.

Morich - thoughts? The inverter is new as of 9/2018
Thanks
My opinion is that something is up with the inverter. Your inverter was replaced in 9/2018 - was it an exact replacement?

Note to any View owners is that Winnebago made a number of upgrades to the View in each serial number series and the owner should carefully study the 110 volt schematic for their specific serial number.
The schematic for the OP is for his 2017 24V, however, the supporting document also states for 2016: https://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2016/194814.pdf (taken straight from the 10545W1 serial number)
The 10545W2 begins the 2017 and the schematic is slightly different than 10545W1.
Later year models began to ship with a different inverter and an external auto transfer switch that was mounted right beyond the inverter.
It appears that the former year model the inverter has an internal transfer.
Regardless, if the inverter is on but no 110 volt it is likely the inverter outlet (GFCI).
Sheet 2 of the schematic for 10545W1 shows where to check for 110 volt input power to the inverter and where to check for power from the inverter to the GFCI.
This check should be done with a volt meter and not a power detection stick and should be done by someone that is knowledable with energized circuits.

Morich has done a great job advising the OP, but the joining in of other year make and model owners makes for reason for the note of caution about checking wiring schematics for your specific serial number.

Bobby
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Old 03-09-2020, 02:43 PM   #28
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BKG/ Bobby is right on with what he is pointing out. It seems so easy to say we have X year and Y model but it takes lots closer looking if we really want to get down to the correct answer. If folks are used to looking at drawings and then see something different on their RV, it doesn't give them near the heartache as they are used to things looking a bit strange at times when they pull the wrong drawing or some small detail has changed.
On the first question, we first pinned it down to power at the GFCI outlet mounted right on the inverter but no power on several outlets that are out further on the string. So with GFCI working a little bit like a switch, we get power has to be going into the GFCI as that outlet works and it is on the output side of the GFCI "switch". So we say the inverter is good as well as the GFCI but there is a chance that there is a broken wire right there in the box with the GFCI or along the chain feeding outlets from there on.
But getting the right info from drawing, it is really best to chase it down to year, make, model and then we sometimes still need to go to the serial number as changes are made to detail, even within the year.
On my Vista, there are two different sets of drawing and one of the changes is on the 110 AC for showing an outlet near the passenger seat when there is a switch located near that spot on the other serial number. So when we are trying to sort out trouble, coming across a switch throws the thinking way off if we are expecting an outlet!
My old boss used to get kind of excited and want to know, "How longs it going to take to fix?"
I usually didn't tell him but the truth is often, "Just a couple minutes after I find what's wrong!" Fixing trouble is easy, finding the trouble, not so much!
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Old 03-10-2020, 02:02 AM   #29
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Morich and others, my apologies, the inverter is a Xantrex 807-1000. I can't get any other information off of it right now because, naturally, it's attached to the back wall of a filled compartment.

After posting yesterday, I contacted Xantrex who started a case file for me as it's still under warranty. The tech said the next time it happens (2 x in 19 days now) take a voltage reading of input voltage. Apparently a small difference +/-in voltage can, indeed, trip an interior relay which then won't reset until voltage is disconnected and then re-connected.

Further, failing that, he suggested a "hard reset" of disconnecting the power lead (12v) from the inverter and leaving it sit for 30+ minutes and then re-connect. I initially thought I may have to remove the inverter to do this but I believe I can trace the positive line back and more easily disconnect it there.

If this doesn't work, it has to go back to them for evaluation of a bad "board" and/or relay/xfer switch.

Thanks for all of the brain power here!
I'll keep you posted.
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Old 03-10-2020, 07:30 AM   #30
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For an easier removal of the 12V input, I might look to breakers or other cutoff. If a potrion of the 12v is not currently needed, trip that breaker. Many of us have some form of coach battery cutoff for when we store the unit, so if you do not have need of any of the 12v, trip that breaker or cutoff. If using/living in the RV, look for one that feeds less of the whole system and there should be one that kills far less of the coach.
As I look at newer electronics, I find far less thought is put into design for reliable use and it gets really hard to keep it all working.
Dish is one that is a current bug as I am in an area where there is massive constant building and that leaves power very prone to high and low voltages with the result that the little critical parts of the power supplies are not able to handle the changes and the official "solution" is to unplug and restart the system. So I do not have any form of new modern alarms as I know that they would be off as much as on!
Best of luck as we are in very error prone territory!
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