Last update (for now) on the solar install. The roof install.
We used Sprinter Van Roof Rail Slide Kit (https://rbcomponents.com/products/sp...nt=42642796304
) (2 per solar panel in our case) to affix 80/20's T slot 1050 profiles (each 55 inches long) (https://8020.net/1050.html
) . We also had cut some 30" long pieces of the 1050to mount to the slides to extend the rear panel past the slide rail, and the front panel, forward of the slide rails.
We had to take a Dremel and cut out part of the sprinter's passenger side roof rail to drop in the slide kit due to the awning also utilizing the passenger side rail.
In the front, due to the awning, we couldn't use the Sprinter Slide rail, so we affixed a 1"1"x28" aluminum angle to the awning mount extending forward past the slide rail. Since this extended beyond the end of the slid rail, the 1050 was mounted in a way to extend forward beyond the slide rail as well. The rear panel extended beyond the slide rails as well and the 1050 was utilized the same way there.
We used the solar gland from Renogy where the wiring goes through the roof. We used butyl tape, stainless screws to affix the gland to the roof and prevent leaks, then liberally caulked around the gland. The solar panel electrical wires drop into the area in the closet, we ran them (between the closet roof and the insulation of the roof) to the wire chase in the closet. From there, they follow the plumbing vent and a lot of OEM wires to behind/under the drawers. Where the OEM inverter was located, we installed the solar disconnect - figuring we don't need readily access to it very often. (photo of disconnect above in thread)
Things that make life easier, but do add a little cost - using the slide in T-Nuts sold by 80/20 as well as ordering the screws from them. Always order a few extra slide ins and screws. Make sure you order screws that will fit all the items being attached - The lock washer, the solar mounting plate, mounting the track to the the other track, these are varying lengths. I found 12mm to be the happy medium when mounting the panels to the track (so I used M6 and 12mm screws and nuts).
I also went through 2 small tubes of Blue Loctite - any bolt/nut that was outside the vehicle got Loctite. Battery mounts/nuts, all the hardware on the solar panels (and I do mean ALL).
After all this, it reminds me how we NEVER use the areal antenna, rarely use the AM/FM on the Jensen. We only use the TV on the counter for Netflix etc. We ALWAYS comment how we wish they didnt put the TV there since we can use a tablet the same way, without losing counterspace. Had the TV antenna not been there, we coulda put in a 4th panel.
3 Renogy 175 Panels (https://www.renogy.com/175-watt-mono...e-solar-panel/
1 Renogy Solar entry gland (https://www.renogy.com/solar-double-cable-entry-gland
6 pieces of 55 inches 80/20 1050 T slot (https://8020.net/1050.html
3 pieces of 80/20 1050 T slot 30 inches
1 piece of aluminum angle 1/8" thick, 30 inches
A lot of M6 screws (10mm, 12mm and longer)
A lot of M6 Slide In nuts (https://8020.net/3873.html
Blue '242' Loctite thread locker
Lots of split ring lock washers
Butyl Tape (NOT PLUMBERS PUTTY!!!) (https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-8-Inc...A1S57KNZPNGJP4
Sikaflex 715 Semi Self Leveling caulk (https://usa.sika.com/en/industry/tra...aflex-715.html
Solar Connector Kit (Includes the 3 to 1 Branch connectors, tools and such) (https://www.amazon.com/BougeRV-Conne.../dp/B0928F9CR9
10 ga Solar PV cables (https://www.amazon.com/BougeRV-Exten...NrPXRydWU&th=1