2006 Adventurer Aux Batt Switch

[jmccullough]

My Aux Batt toggle switch, located by the stairwell, does not stay in the off, or on position. I am able to hold the switch in either position to supply power to the house. Would this be a bad switch or is there another issue that might be causing this behavior? Would greatly appreciate help with this.

[Morich]

No, the switch is working as designed.
It operates a special type of relay that Latches with magnetic parts to stay in the last posiont it has moved into.
That allows the switch to be momentary switch which"bounces back" when you relaese it and that momentary use of power and then stopping lets it move the relay and then stop using power while we are camping, etc.

However there can be other factors which keep the whole disconnect/ reconnect from working. One of those can be as simple as the battery needed to move the relay involved is not enough. The switch can work but it doesn't move the relay to close if it has too little battery power!

We may be able to help if you can give us more info on what the problem is that prompts the question.

Also it will be good too post up which model 2006 adventurer you have so we can go to the correct drawings.
The overall drawing list is here but with 7 different models it is best to go to the correct one as there can be differences.
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ram/Wiring.htm

As an overall first look, it can be as simple as finding the mode solenoid and battery disconnect relay, which are often side by side and often labeled for location? Then if you are close by and somebody pushes the disconnect button, you can often hear the relay move!

[jmccullough]

Thanks for the reply Richard. The Model is the WPG33V. When I depress the toggle in either direction, I can hear the relay click over. Batteries are reading 12.4v each. The issue is I cannot run the generator unless hold the switch in either position. When I release the switch, the generator turns off. This is a recent purchase and I am new to motorhomes in general. My assumption, according to the manual, is that I can switch the Aux Batt on for use and off for storage to avoid parasitic drain.

[creativepart]

My assumption, according to the manual, is that I can switch the Aux Batt on for use and off for storage to avoid parasitic drain.

Jim, your assumption on the switch operation is correct.

And, Richard's comment that the switch doesn't "stay" in the on or off position is also correct. My Aux Battery switch in the stairway (now called a House Battery switch) and the chassis battery switch next to it have a small green light on the leading edge and when "on" the green light is lit, when off it's off. But you push it or pull it to turn it on and off and you hear the solenoids clicking.

The generator problem sounds like some other issue. However, I can see how they could be related. In the compartment where the 12v push to reset breakers are there is a sticker on a plate and it says that behind that plate are those disconnect solenoids. There is a BIM in that place also and a generator connection there as well.

It's possible that you have an issue with the BIM or one of those disconnect solenoids OR it could be something else.

This might be something you should have an independent tech come take a quick look at. I wouldn't take it to a dealer as they'll take too long and charge too much.

Best of luck.

[Morich]

Okay, good info there as we can go to the drawings and look at what it should be doing.
there are so many mystery items on RV , that I like to get as much confusion out as possible!

This is the drawing set for your RV , if it is something you want to look at or we can do some looking and get some info that may help.

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_146761.pdf

This is a snip I may of that part. Click to get a bigger/better picture?



This space is where we do have a fair amount of trouble and it does help if we get down what it is doing for us or to us!!

The big thing for you right now is the way the disconnect switch and relay should work. The relay or solenoid at the left is where the dash switch can be pushed to connect coach and chassis battery together to jump start OR when we have the engine on, it connects them to get some charge from the engine alternator to the run down coach battery as we drive.
Good stuff to know but NOT likely your problem for now. Solenoids or relay are different names for a switch that is moved by electricity instead of our hand!

So the disconnect relay is closer to what may be failing.
When we look at Winnebago drawings, they have wires labeled and we can look at where those wires come from and go to , on this list:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf



Tape on battery cable ends?


I marked the wires which make the relay work in blue. The LJ wire picks up coach battery, takes it up to eht switch and then when we push the switch to engage or disengage the batteries, that power comes back down to the relay and makes it engage or disengage, depending on which way we have pushes the momentary switch. When it moves, there is supposed to be a magnet gizmo which holds it there, on or off and we should be able to let go of the switch and not use any more battery as the magnet holds it.

I suspect you are finding a bad relay that is not stayiing latched! Since you can hear it and the genrator does get power when you hold the switch, it seems like the magnet part is not doing it's job?? See the red line going from coach battery to contacts in relay ? It seems the contacts are closing but not staying closed? I've not seen much complaints on these but I am guessing it has lost the magnet function? Guessing that the inside 12Volt like lights also fails when the generator controls get cut off as they are also run through this disconnect?

If true, the part number is just below the relay battery disconnect label on the drawing?

But an important small confusionpoint that snags a lot of new er users is that the disconnect DOES NOT remove all the drains! Shocking, yes,but it is true that the safety stuff like cO and propane detectors and steps are considered too important to disconnect and they WILL run a battery down when stored, even with disconnect thrown!

The way to get ALL drains disconnected it to put a cutoff on the negative side of the battery wiring.

It's a bear to get the fuse panel out of the way but I think that may be where you need to go to fix it!
The other is just info for future! Hope it gets you there! Good luck!