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Old 08-28-2022, 03:38 PM   #21
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I think this is the battery you have?
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT9831DT

Looking close at the top of the battery, it appears to have both post and stud attachment points and I'm betting the second will have wingnuts on your batteries!

I'm getting a better feel for doing this as the wingnuts would often let you just stick an arm up and feel for turning them loose without having to see or get tools in the space???

The problem I might see is that the second battery still leaves that problem of having a hot wire flopping around up there, no matter which you take off first, left or right side of coach?

At work when we had to work something hot, we always had something like heavy canvas to wrap the end before we turned it loose but with little space, that gets into questions! Not impossible but needs some study before starting.
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Old 08-28-2022, 04:55 PM   #22
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I always say 2 heads are better than one and 3 is even better.


I did what Morich did but came up with a different battery

Maybe you only have one stud like this https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT9...&gclsrc=aw.ds&

Either way assuming stud was used, you might be bale to unscrew those studs and add to your new battery or the new batteries if you buy the right type will haver new studs.

The reason I eventually scrapped the idea of the cheaper Duracell in favor of vMax Tank was because of more AHs and no Automotive post; so less things to cause a short.

I did not realize the battery would pivot out the case. That dimension should be critical for a new battery even if NAPA.

Can I assume you can remove the bolt on the mounting bracket by going inside the RV? I am now thinking you cannot even drop the tray unless that bracket is removed?

With only 12 " clearance even with my low profile lift I could only drop to 3 " above the ground so you would still need to pivot battery out.
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Old 08-28-2022, 06:55 PM   #23
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Probably the same battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by Morich View Post
I think this is the battery you have?
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT9831DT

Looking close at the top of the battery, it appears to have both post and stud attachment points and I'm betting the second will have wingnuts on your batteries!

I'm getting a better feel for doing this as the wingnuts would often let you just stick an arm up and feel for turning them loose without having to see or get tools in the space???

The problem I might see is that the second battery still leaves that problem of having a hot wire flopping around up there, no matter which you take off first, left or right side of coach?

At work when we had to work something hot, we always had something like heavy canvas to wrap the end before we turned it loose but with little space, that gets into questions! Not impossible but needs some study before starting.
I'm pretty sure that is the same battery.

There is only about 2 inches or so between the top of the battery case (NOT the posts) and the bottom of the chassis. Very difficult to get a picture. Not enough room to get a hand in and do anything like disconnect the battery cables.

Best I can tell, the battery will have to be lowered or removed to disconnect the cables.
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Old 08-28-2022, 07:00 PM   #24
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Different battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
I always say 2 heads are better than one and 3 is even better.


I did what Morich did but came up with a different battery

Maybe you only have one stud like this https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT9...&gclsrc=aw.ds&

Either way assuming stud was used, you might be bale to unscrew those studs and add to your new battery or the new batteries if you buy the right type will haver new studs.

The reason I eventually scrapped the idea of the cheaper Duracell in favor of vMax Tank was because of more AHs and no Automotive post; so less things to cause a short.

I did not realize the battery would pivot out the case. That dimension should be critical for a new battery even if NAPA.

Can I assume you can remove the bolt on the mounting bracket by going inside the RV? I am now thinking you cannot even drop the tray unless that bracket is removed?

With only 12 " clearance even with my low profile lift I could only drop to 3 " above the ground so you would still need to pivot battery out.
I don't think this is the same battery. The one in the ERA has both the round post that a round clamp fits around (like many cars use) AND a threaded post where the cables are held down with a nut as far as I can tell. I'm pretty sure it's the same battery Morich linked in a previous post.

As currently installed, the large round post that isn't used is closest to the opening in the battery tray and the screw / bolt terminals and cables are behind it. So access to the terminals where the cables are attached are behind the unused round posts. Just another reason why access is so difficult.

Best I can tell, the only option is to lower and/or remove the batteries to get access to the cables.
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Old 08-28-2022, 07:32 PM   #25
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Sounds like either type is going to be a problem to get the connections off without the battery coming down some first.
So maybe some thoughts on alternate ways to safely get them down are needed. I'm often frustrated doing things at home where I don't have the good stuff like when on jobs.
That means I have to sort ideas of how to get things moved at times.

One of those times might have some value here as it was a heavy item that needed to be lifted and then lowered gently! A 125 gallon tank of fish who were breeding and I wanted to lay floor under the tank but not disturb the fish to interrupt their party.
Expensive fish and breeding that I DID NOT want to stop!

With the gravel drive which makes rolling a heavy jack tricky, what about using wood like we might do for leveling an RV?
1. A couple stack of 2X stubs stacked high enough to just get a thick board like a 2X6 or
8 under and close to the base of the battery rack, so that when the nuts are backed
off on the bolt holding the rack to the floor, it can gradually come down onto the 2X.
2. Finsih taking the nuts off and see it ready to come down as far as the cables allow.
3. Go to one stack and lift one end of the 2X far enough to pull one of the end stack
boards out. How to lift the cross board and battery rack off the end stack, will depend
on how it feels at the time. Maybe a strong dude can man handle it upbut I'm
thinking a small bootle jack under the center! I can move a small bottle jack around
when I can't a big jack!
4. Lift with the jack, remove a board on one end. Lift the other end and remove a
board there and rotate until it gets low enough to work things better?
5. Once the cables are clear, drag the old one however needed as it is junk!

6. Go back with the new by prying the board up to add one under at each end, keeping
it somewhat level until up high enough to start using the jack to go up higher.

Slow, plodding, and tedious but keeping things under control all the time!

Or maybe I have way too much junk wood around here! My wife has a hard time seeing that stack as valuable tools!
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Old 08-31-2022, 05:04 PM   #26
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You can't go wrong with Lifeline AGMs. They were the company that pioneered the technology and made them exclusively for the military. East Penn is not bad, but there are MANY knock-off AGMs which are suboptimal. Of the pallet-load of Lifelines I was sent in 1994 for testing, five are still in service. I pretty much murdered most of the rest.
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Old 08-31-2022, 08:45 PM   #27
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Thanks for the Lifeline AGM recommendation

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Originally Posted by MadMaxWinny View Post
You can't go wrong with Lifeline AGMs. They were the company that pioneered the technology and made them exclusively for the military. East Penn is not bad, but there are MANY knock-off AGMs which are suboptimal. Of the pallet-load of Lifelines I was sent in 1994 for testing, five are still in service. I pretty much murdered most of the rest.
Thanks, I'll look into the Lifeline AGMs. I did a search a few days ago after someone else mentioned the brand but didn't find much in the way of vendors selling them. Maybe I was looking for Lifelines in all the wrong places...
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Old 09-01-2022, 06:43 AM   #28
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West Marine sold them years ago (before cutting a deal for all batteries with East Penn). You might check Lifeline's website to see if they are labeling under other brands.
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Old 09-01-2022, 12:34 PM   #29
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Thanks for the Lifeline recommendation

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Originally Posted by MadMaxWinny View Post
West Marine sold them years ago (before cutting a deal for all batteries with East Penn). You might check Lifeline's website to see if they are labeling under other brands.
I checked the Lifeline site. I don't see anything regarding them labeling other brands.

Availability seems non-existent around here (NE Georgia, US). They list some Batteries Plus locations, but their site doesn't show any products from Lifeline. Not clear if any of the other brands they sell are actually Lifeline products, but so far it doesn't look like it.

Contacted an independent RV service shop in the area. They said they thought it would take them about 1.5 hours @ $170 an hour to replace both batteries. Currently waiting on them to call me back regarding what battery brands they sell (they are listed on the Lifeline site as a dealer) and whether or not I can BYOB (Bring Your Own Battery), perhaps one of the other brands some some suggested (such as VMAXTANKS).
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Old 09-01-2022, 04:56 PM   #30
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So for your big picture $250 to exchange both batteries sounds good. Their hour rate is on the high side but the if 1.5hr estimate is true; it works. Given you gonna get AGMs; you should go 6 - 9 years depending on how much you use them.


I try to avoid promoting one brand or the other, I can only tell you what I have and why. To be hones when I was shopping I could NOT find a bad AGM Mfg? If someone knows one, I would love to hear. A lot of batteries are made by same companies with different labels, i.e. somebody may say Everstart is a cheap battery. Well it is but it is just as good as some other name brands if not better. It is just marketing and branding.

I chose vMax Tanks because it had the highest ah rating 125/battery, was pure deep cycle battery and was the ONLY battery I could find in Grp 31 that would let 2 fit under my step. If you buy 2 AGMs with 105 ah each that is 210 vs my 250. It is like I have an extra 20 ah more than you would after ever charge cycle. In an RV that adds up

I was lucky to buy direct from Mfg, they shipped to my house fast and in impressive packaging. I may still have the packaging as each battery was serialized. One battery came in 13.1vdc and the other was 13.01vdc. The fact I was able to install myself was a bonus, but I think if I had your RV I would expect to pay at least $150 at most $250 and not blink. To put in perspective most RV Repair tech around here charge a min of $300 to come out. Don't matter if all you want is to put on a new wiper blade
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Old 09-02-2022, 09:39 PM   #31
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I spoke to the folks at the independent RV shop today. They confirmed it should be about $250 for labor, which I'm fine with.

Unfortunately, they will not install batteries I provide. I have to buy the batteries from them. The only brand they sell is Deka, which I'm not familiar with. I gather they are manufactured by East Penn, which I also know nothing about.

The batteries (12V 105AH AGMs) are $455 each, so with labor and tax I'm looking at around $1,250 installed.

That's higher than I was hoping for. If I was able to bring my own batteries it would shave around $250 off the installed cost.

Decisions, decisions...
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Old 09-03-2022, 04:08 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by RV-Travelers View Post
I spoke to the folks at the independent RV shop today. They confirmed it should be about $250 for labor, which I'm fine with.

Unfortunately, they will not install batteries I provide. I have to buy the batteries from them. The only brand they sell is Deka, which I'm not familiar with. I gather they are manufactured by East Penn, which I also know nothing about.

The batteries (12V 105AH AGMs) are $455 each, so with labor and tax I'm looking at around $1,250 installed.

That's higher than I was hoping for. If I was able to bring my own batteries it would shave around $250 off the installed cost.

Decisions, decisions...


If it were my money, I would run and not look back.

For starters I would NOT buy any 105ah, because I want as much capacity as possible for my fixed group 31 space. For you, it may not be problem assuming in 5 years you never ran your house batteries down for normal usage? East Penn may make everything, a lot of it is branding and you can go in circles trying to find who is who. If Deka had been 125ah and $475 for two, I would have Dekas instead of VMax Tanks.

Not sure where you are, but when I bought my batteries direct from Vmax tank, there was no tax nor shipping cost involved. I spent $500 total. From the link I provided you in Post #3, a pair of those same batteries have gone up $30 last week to $630 for two.

If it were me, I would change the narrative. Find the batteries I want with capacity I need and buy them at best price possible. Take a chill and then when they come; put them in the RV; so when you stop at shops or call, you can start by telling them what have. They see the RV and the battery and tell you how much they charge to install. You get a price less than $300 take it. Negotiate, if price is too high, tell them you were thinking $250.

I have a mobile tech that comes to my house, if I had your situation, I doubt he charge me $200 to install both of those batteries; so my my total cost for your project is $830, but I likely would do myself one way or the other.
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Old 09-03-2022, 08:16 AM   #33
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Thanks for the feedback, as always.

I'm thinking along the same lines. I'd rather get the batteries I want and then either find a shop to install them or perhaps take a stab at doing it myself, with some help from someone a lot younger and stronger than me.

As noted in one previous post, there is a non-RV shop I spoke to that thought they could install the pair of batteries in about 1.5 hours @ $170 an hour. They haven't seen the RV yet, so maybe I should get the batteries I want, drive over there and see if they are confident they can do it and at that price. So that's an option.

As also noted previously, I've already modified a floor jack with a platform to lower and raise a battery. The problem is very tight working quarters, and more importantly some serious physical limitations at this point in my life.
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Old 09-03-2022, 08:27 AM   #34
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I tend to do all I can and sometimes take chances on whether I can do it!
But I also have to admit that this is one I would not DIY as it has so many ways it can go wrong!
First thing is I might hurt myself! Just lifting/moving 70 pounds when laying on my back is NOT good!
Second thing is the cost involved if I happen to lose control and drop a battery to break it!
I might pull a muscle and regret it for a very long time but that hit on the pocket will take a long time to forget!
But I still remember dropping the first starter I ever changed and that was a loonnng time back! I think that thing cost me 15-20 dollars!
The combo is not one I would want to risk!
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Old 09-03-2022, 08:32 AM   #35
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I think the plan is:

1. Buy the batteries I want (probably the VMAXTANKS 125AH, depending on price)

2. Try to find a local shop to replace them, hopefully in the $250 or less range

3. If I can't find a local shop to do it, look into getting some help and doing it myself
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Old 09-03-2022, 08:50 AM   #36
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Is this worth considering? 100AH for $200, well-known name brand.

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Batter...0&sr=1-11&th=1
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Old 09-03-2022, 12:31 PM   #37
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Is this worth considering? 100AH for $200, well-known name brand.

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Batter...0&sr=1-11&th=1
Remember until someone tells me the name of a bad Battery mfg or bad brand, the brand is really meaningless to me.

If I am buying house batteries, my #1 and primary concern is rated at ahs or capacity. I would not buy the batteries because they are only 100ahs. The labor to install is going to be the same regardless of ahs.

But if you asking me is that a good deal,,,? Then the answer is yes, I see good deals all the time, I am not gonna buy a Chevy Blazer because it is 33% off when I want a Navigator. But you a Chevy Blazer may be all you need and I would say go for it.

I will try to explain why ahs is so important to me.

You and boondock side by side. we both run fridge, lights, TVs etc and we both use on average exactly 5ah/hr. That means you can go 20 hours before needing to recharge. I could go 5 hours longer or 25 hours with my 125ah vMax Tanks. And that is 5 hrs more on every recharge. It adds up fast. If you ever ran out of juice at in the middle of the night, you will start to seek out batteries with more capacity. Some people actually expand their battery banks.

But you may never NEVER really that capacity? So the 100ah may be perfect. I can't answer that. I can tell you what I would buy and now I am just elaborating why I bought the 125 SLR. No other mfg had 125ah that would fit in group 31.
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Old 09-03-2022, 12:54 PM   #38
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In your case, with restricted area, the sizeisgoing tobe a critical factor, so look carefully at the group size you currently have and match the new to fit it.
And as a further thought, that size is often what dictates the amp hour rating. More lead means larger and larger means more amp hours.
The 200 amp hours would be nice but not if you have no space! I would shop size/ shape, then more amp hours if it feels like you need more and price is always a part of my thinking.
I do commercail work and the cost is always a big factor as even Wal-mart wants the most value for the dollar!
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Old 09-03-2022, 04:12 PM   #39
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In my experience, AGM deep cycle batteries aren't necessarily sold by group size so pay close attention to the length, width and height, including terminals. And be extra careful, a group size designation may be indicative of a dual purpose starting/deep cycle AGM battery, especially if cold cranking amps (CCA) is in the specs.

I've read some posts that say that all AGM batteries are true deep cycle batteries but this contradicts that perspective:

https://www.power-sonic.com/blog/the...er%20batteries.
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Old 09-03-2022, 07:04 PM   #40
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Quote:
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In my experience, AGM deep cycle batteries aren't necessarily sold by group size
This is true for 6v batteries - either FLA or AGM. But a Group 31 AGM is a standard size and generally has 100 or more amp hours.
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