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Old 04-12-2022, 02:02 AM   #1
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Winnebago Tour HWH Levelers Help

Hi everyone
I've recently bought a winnebago tour 36 2007 I live in the UK so nobody here to help I'm away in the rv now only second time using it. I done the auto levelling and it didn't seem right so I did it again second time it seemed to stop moving but the motor was still buzzing away but it said on the panel excess slope so I pushed stop retracted the jacks but after that nothing is working jacks or slides the motor does make a clicking noise but nothing else. I'm stuck on a campsite jacks up slides out. I know I can manually wind them in but can't find the hwh motor to turn valves etc does anyone have any tips on getting it working or location and how it's done. Don't want to break anything myself
Many thanks for any help
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Old 04-12-2022, 07:12 AM   #2
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Page 118 of your owners manual locates the HWH pump beneath the entrance steps:

• The hydraulic pump is located beneath the
entrance steps. To access the pump, remove
the nut from the underside of the top step ‘lip’
and lift the step upward and remove.


Here's the link for more info plus photos:

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...007/07Tour.pdf
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Old 04-12-2022, 11:23 AM   #3
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Thanks very much for that information I'll try and get it all back in now if someone else has had to do it manually please let me know the sequence etc I don't have a drill so going to be a long wind with a spanner ��
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Old 04-12-2022, 02:35 PM   #4
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Page 10-4 and following (starting on page 118 of the pdf linked above) of your Operator Manual details the Emergency Room Retraction procedure, complete with pictures.
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Old 04-12-2022, 09:59 PM   #5
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Check out this video,
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Old 04-13-2022, 06:41 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rothwell View Post
Thanks very much for that information I'll try and get it all back in now if someone else has had to do it manually please let me know the sequence etc I don't have a drill so going to be a long wind with a spanner ��
If I were you, I'd buy an inexpensive drill/driver from Harbor Freight. A corded one is fine, you have a generator and, with corded, won't need to keep any batteries charged. I'd go for this one. Just don't use the hammer function when you retract your slide:

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-...ver-64119.html

You'll also need a suitably sized driver bit. Get a set of drill bits and you'll find all sorts of uses for it. At $20, I'd just keep it on your MH.

Harbor Freight power tools aren't known for their longevity but their fine for occasional use.

Good luck.
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Old 04-15-2022, 01:16 AM   #7
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Thanks but someone in the past has done the emergency retraction and didn't release it again and have stripped both nylon/plastic nuts so it's still stuck on the campsite have a guy coming today hopefully he'll fix the problem and I'll get the sides in and get it home. Thanks for these replies much appreciated
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Old 04-15-2022, 07:49 AM   #8
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Oh man that stinks, hope he can get you going, let us know what he does, we all learn from these challenges.
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Old 04-18-2022, 08:46 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rothwell View Post
Hi everyone
I've recently bought a winnebago tour 36 2007 I live in the UK so nobody here to help I'm away in the rv now only second time using it. I done the auto levelling and it didn't seem right so I did it again second time it seemed to stop moving but the motor was still buzzing away but it said on the panel excess slope so I pushed stop retracted the jacks but after that nothing is working jacks or slides the motor does make a clicking noise but nothing else. I'm stuck on a campsite jacks up slides out. I know I can manually wind them in but can't find the hwh motor to turn valves etc does anyone have any tips on getting it working or location and how it's done. Don't want to break anything myself
Many thanks for any help
I'm sorry for you. Bummer.
Did you check the fluid level in the HWH tank? With the top step up, you should be looking down onto the top of the tank. (I use a burgundy cord to hold the step up going to the center console draw handle.) The black hex tower is the dipstick/fill port. Try adding Dexron-III to bring the level up some. You may have a hydraulic leak. And, make certain the room solenoid pressure release valve on the end of the solenoid is snug closed. Don't force tighten it.
What year is your coach? If the basement is on the slide, look at the room slide rams. Check the trays out. They should not be bent. Check the hanger bolts out for the basement box. These are know to break.
I'll be watching here for your problem cause and fix.
God bless your days.
Rick Y
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Old 04-18-2022, 11:22 PM   #10
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Thanks again people
Yes someone stripped a nut on each slider so I ended up getting them in with ratchet straps just on each side of the rams took me a few hours and I had to release the 6 Hydraulic pipes and just let the fluid drop into a big container under the pump etc because the back of each solenoid i turned 4.5 anti clockwise but still couldn't really get the sliders moving...When pressing the slide button for a second it gets 12v but drops straight to 8v and also both side electric awnings seemed to be really weak too as if flat batteries but they're new and fully charged. I have a guy coming in a few days it's either a bad earth a bad pump or maybe just a relay all solenoids were working when tested and the pump I'll post it here when I find the fault hopefully
Thank you
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Old 04-19-2022, 06:05 AM   #11
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After you get things sorted out, we'll be interested in your experiences RVing in the UK with your 36' Tour. From what we see on TV, it seems to be mostly smaller travel trailers or "caravans" as you call them.
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Old 04-24-2022, 02:41 AM   #12
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Hi again everyone
Found the problem the pump as I said was working but obviously not pumping fluid as was really quiet turns out the end of the hydraulic pump had sheared off so I need a new pump does anyone know the pump part number there are numbers on it but I can't find anything with these numbers and I downloaded the hwh brochure for it but doesn't show part numbers the numbers on it are "Rohs Reach 414947 made in China 122616 Maybe its already a replacement part but any help again appreciated the build on the tank sticker is HWH AP29808
And yes using a big A class in the UK can be a bit of a pain I have toured in America in an A class years back and everything is easy especially every campsite but most sites here are not designed for big stuff so yes it's hard getting to some with the lhd and size going down small lanes and getting sites to accommodate us too.
Thanks
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Old 04-24-2022, 02:59 AM   #13
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Thanks for that but I couldn't wind it in because someone in the past had stripped the thread on the plastic blocks inside the manual winders on both slides so I ended up using ratchet straps on each side of the slider rails took for ever as they were really hard to even move a few millimetres each side even after I'd released all 6 hydraulic pipes for the slide by the pump but got them all in and now trying to buy a new pump for it and I'm having someone make me new better plastic or nylon blocks to go on the manual adjusters.
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Old 04-24-2022, 05:44 AM   #14
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the numbers on it are "Rohs Reach 414947 made in China 122616 Maybe its already a replacement part but any help again appreciated the build on the tank sticker is HWH AP29808
You wrote that the end of the pump was sheared off so I was wondering if it could be repaired. I suggest you taking some good photos of the damage and sending them to Paul Maddox, aka azpete. He's a Winnieowners member who works for HWH. He can be contacted via PM (Winnieowners private message) or, better yet, via [email protected] or at 602-549-3638. He's published this contact information here and on IRV2, so I wouldn't be reluctant to call him or email him directly rather than sending a PM.

It might be something that a local hydraulic shop can repair since the pump itself works. With all of the commercial equipment that relies on hydraulics, they can be wizards.

Here's a link to the HWH page on the AP29808 part #. It says something about it being rebuildable. You wrote that the end of the pump was sheared off so I was wondering if any of these drawings help locate the damage.

https://www.hwhcorp.com/mr307000.pdf

Page 52 of the Winnebago parts catalog lists a different part number for your MH, 153452-22-703 EA PUMP/MOTOR/TANK ASM. RAP91686/AP36694:

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...7/7wkr36ld.pdf

Here are some HWH links to those part numbers:

RAP91686- https://www.hwhcorp.com/mr303360.pdf

AP36694- https://www.hwhcorp.com/mp70399a-c.pdf

And here's another HWH link to some diagrams:

https://www.hwhcorp.com/winnebago2007_diagrams.html

Paul (azpete) should be able to help you navigate the above part numbers.

I've seen complete pump assemblies on eBay and at some or the RV salvage yards, but you'd probably have a tough time finding what you need. When looking at complete assemblies, keep in mind that new slide solenoid valves alone would cost over $200 each, jack valves maybe a little less. Here are links to two salvage yards:

https://colawrvsalvage.com/

https://rvparts.visonerv.com/
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Old 04-24-2022, 07:34 AM   #15
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Thanks very much for all that information very helpful indeed I'm in the UK though but I'll see if any of them numbers help me to locate one here
Much appreciated ������
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Old 04-24-2022, 09:35 AM   #16
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When mention of the voltage on the battery dropping from12 to 8, I might throw in a question of how things are being done as there is a small point often missed.
Do you start the RV engine before trying to move slides or jacks or start the generator?

Reason this can be important is the way the electronics work on the RV. All three of these actions may require serious battery voltage to work best. Good high voltage levels is one way to avoid overheating the motors and we can best get that high voltage from the engine alternator. The alternatoris a better higher level than the converter when plugged into shore power. There are many times when it seems to make little difference but then there are also times when we can drive ourselves into a real problem if we don't form the best habits.

I consider it a matter of priorities when wanting to leave a campsite! Yes, it is important to get the jacks and slide in but I also want the RV engine to start!

So if we have been camping and possibly both sets of batteries are not in top shape, whether a few years old or just that we've discharged them a bit, I want to first start the RV engine as that then puts the alternator in operation and closes the mode solenoid. The engine alternator when first being started will be putting out something like 14 volts as a way to speed up recharging the start battery but at the same time the mode solenoid will close and connect both battery strings together!

After starting the RV engine, we then get the power from the coach and start batteries connected PLUS the 14 volts from the alternator. That allows anything like motors or starter for the generator to get good best voltage levels to do their job but with the added benefit that we are not prone to using the remaining battery power trying to do some job and then finding not enough power left to start the engine!

I try to form good habits to avoid that WHOOPS situation that may require a tow truck for a jump start.
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Old 04-24-2022, 11:21 AM   #17
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Thanks very much for all that information very helpful indeed I'm in the UK though but I'll see if any of them numbers help me to locate one here
Much appreciated ������
I think that's likely to be futile. I really think your best bet is to contact azpete with photos and go from there in pursuing local repairs based on his recommendations. That's assuming, of course that the unit is totally destroyed.
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Old 04-24-2022, 11:56 AM   #18
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Which model HWH leveling system do you have? That is very important information when you contact AZPETE.
I have the 610 common-ground model, which is computerized automatic leveling.
BTW there should be a HWH control box under the dash of your MH, mine just lays on the floor. It has several fuses on the back.


Morich is correct; HWH systems require "good" voltage when operating. The drop to 8VDC is not sufficient to operate the system. HWH requires a minimum of 12.8 VDC to operate; thus the recommendation to have the engine running or be connected to shore power or genset running.
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Old 04-25-2022, 12:57 AM   #19
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Thanks for all that information the batteries are only a few weeks old but yes I'll try having the engine running in future Thanks
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Old 05-12-2022, 12:30 AM   #20
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Hi again people finding it hard to get a pump here obviously this I Believe is the motor number I need 153452-18-705* EA* MOTOR ONLY - 3.7" MONARCH RAP91249 who would be the best place to source this from to buy and ship to the UK many thanks
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