Winnebago Step problem

scdave · 07-03-2010, 12:32 PM

Help....Have a 2006 Sightseer 29R....Picked it up from storage and the steps will not come out...Battery is fine...Light goes on underneath the step when you open the door...Any thoughts ??

Spikester · 07-03-2010, 01:34 PM

Could you post the type of steps that you have, could help us help you figure out what is the matter, different brands operate at little different.

Light coming on indicates you have power to your step controller, and that the door switch is working, if you have a step switch that changes its mode of operation, it maybe the culprit. If you have the step operators/owners manual there should be a procedure to troubleshoot to find the bad component.

Spike

John Hilley · 07-03-2010, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spikester

Could you post the type of steps that you have, could help us help you figure out what is the matter, different brands operate at little different.

Light coming on indicates you have power to your step controller, and that the door switch is working, if you have a step switch that changes its mode of operation, it maybe the culprit. If you have the step operators/owners manual there should be a procedure to troubleshoot to find the bad component.

Spike

Sometimes lubricating the linkage fixes the problem. The controller senses resistance and quits. This is so that if the step hits a curb or something it stops. If the linkage is stiff enough it won't go out at all.

Wyatt53 · 07-03-2010, 02:33 PM

I had the same problem and found a pin in the linkage backed out jamming things up.

Petro · 07-03-2010, 04:22 PM

Try lightly tapping the motor with a wrench or hammer. I had that happen once and it started to work. I assume a little rust accumulated from extended storage.

Don

Clay L · 07-04-2010, 08:12 AM

Winnebago uses Kwikee steps I believe and you can get a troubleshooting manual (Step service training manual) here Kwikee Products - Literature

These guys rebuild the controller unit for $75 RV Electric Step Controls Rebuilding Service | RV Controls

If you do need a motor here are some possible sources for inexpensive replacements I have saved from various threads over the years.

" 1) AM Equipment 402 E. Hazel St Jefferson, OR 97352, (541) 327-1546 the motor is $29 plus $7 shipping.

2) www.rvdealership.com that sells a repair parts kit made specifically for these units - includes gears.

3) Replacement step motor at AutoZone. It's a Siemens "Window Lift Motor", part number WL43003.

4) Autozone. The brand is "Siemens"
The ID tag lists the following numbers:
59720-20
121899

5) A 1986-1995 Ford Taurus left front window lift motor matched my motor. NAPA part # BK655-1395 $63.99 I ordered my motor from Auto-Zone Manufactured by Dorman part# 742-206. This has a lifetime Warranty and was $49.99. "

scdave · 07-04-2010, 12:23 PM

Please see my reply below...

scdave · 07-04-2010, 12:39 PM

I can't Thank You all enough....As you can see I am a newbie but I new that I would get a lot of hep from this Forum...Its the first place I turned to....

The good news...The step is now working...

Yesterday, I tried everything including tapping on the motor with a hammer...I then came to the Forum for help...Today, I went out and sent Mama into the coach to start it and then open the door while I tried to pull down on the step from the outside...Nothing...I then went back under and tried with the hammer again while the coach was running and the door closed...Tap, Tap Tap, crawled out and asked mama to open the door...Step came out...I have lubed it in the past but I just did it again and operated the step maybe 15 times...

So, appears something inside the motor was frozen, rusted or what ever...I suppose there is not much further I can do other than make sure I occasionally operate the step when its in storage...If anyone has further suggestion I would appreciate it...

Again, Thanks to all of you especially Clay L with the reference information...Hope you all have a wonderful fourth of July...

David & Joan, Tucker & Hagen our German Short hairs
Winn 2006 Sightseer 29R Ford...Jeep wrangler unlimited toad...

dengraham · 07-04-2010, 03:39 PM

Dave,
I lubed mine for years but only last year at GNR did I see the bottom of the step on display. I was missing two of the four lube spots under the top step. The best lube is the Kwik Lube because it sprays on like a penetrating oil and then "foams" up to a grease. Really good stuff

scdave · 07-05-2010, 08:18 AM

Thanks Dennis...I think Kwik Lube is what they recommend ion the owners Manuel...I have been using a Lithium Grease but I am going to get the Kwik Lube...

TandW · 07-05-2010, 08:23 AM

Don't be smackin' those motors too hard lest you shatter the magnets within.

scdave · 07-05-2010, 09:15 PM

Step stopped working again :(

MaverickBBD · 07-06-2010, 11:00 AM

At least now you know where the motor is. Get some lube on those steps before you write off the motor.

"007" · 07-06-2010, 11:18 AM

Check the ground wire for steps under chassis. Should be near step make sure it tight and clean. Have someone lift your brake pedal in the up position. Than try and open and close door.
Brake switch may need adjustment and you should have a Zerk for lube of fitting in bell crank for return of master cylinder shaft. Which is controled by brake pedal return.

Reason steps need lube steps have to return fully to top for complete closer if not step will not reset control board you will have to jump out and lift steps manually to reset control.

MrTransistor · 07-06-2010, 03:13 PM

Hello scdave,

I feel I need to jump in here with a little technical information. DC motors as used on the steps have brushes to transfer the current to the rotating part (armature/rotor). When the steps go in or out, they always stop at the same two spots on the armature. The next time the step is commanded to move, it always starts from one of these two points. After many, many start/stop cycles, the armature develops burned spots at those points and this resists current flow (which is maximum at 0 RPM) causing the motor to stand still having not enough torque. Generally referred to as a ‘dead’ spot on the armature, this usually starts out as an intermittent and with time becomes worse until it happens every time.

If the up/down stops are adjustable, they can be moved ever so slightly to allow the motor to stop on a clean spot of the armature eliminating the problem and allowing the dead spot to be cleaned naturally by the brushes. The motors life can usually be extended indefinitely this way, or until the brushes become so worn and shortened that they no longer contact the armature.

For larger motors, that have access to the brush area, there is a fine abrasive stone mounted on a wooden handle that is used to clean and refurbish the armature. For smaller motors like the steps, this may not be applicable. Some times the motor can be disassembled and the armature can be chucked into a lathe or miller to be spun for cleaning. I’ve actually used a drill to spin an armature for cleaning. If this is not possible, the only alternative is replacement. Electric window motors have this problem and are generally replaced because of the hassle of cleaning the armature.

This may or may not be the problem with your step, but from what you describe, it sounds like a possibility. Hope you come up with a solution.

Ps. The brain may be getting old but the knowledge in there is still useful. Might as well get it out while I still can.

scdave · 07-08-2010, 12:38 PM

Okay...I disconnected the ground wire cleaned up the screw and the washer, reattached and still nothing...Light still comes on when you open the door...Not sure about this brake pedal thingy...I did try lifting on the pedal but that did not do anything...When you press the pedal in slightly I do hear a clicking sound like a Solenoid which I suspect is for the brake lights...Remember, the steps will not operate even with the motor running.....A few days ago I tapped on the motor several different times and it just so happened that the steps started working but then stopped again...I guess I also should mention that the rig has 20,000 miles on it, we have owned it since new and we do spend considerable time at the beach both in Central California and Southern Oregon..So I am suspecting some rust although I do keep the coach very clean and enclosed during storage...In fact, we are headed to the Kite Festival in Bookings Oregon on Saturday..I guess we will just use a step ladder in the mean time...At this point I am suspecting a bad motor unless anybody has any other idea's...Also looks like quite a chore to replace it myself...Any other trouble shooting thoughts or should I just order a new Motor ?? Thanks in advance everyone...

scdave · 07-08-2010, 12:44 PM

Okay...I disconnected the ground wire cleaned up the screw and the washer, reattached and still nothing...Light still comes on when you open the door...Not sure about this brake pedal thingy...I did try lifting on the pedal but that did not do anything...When you press the pedal in slightly I do hear a clicking sound like a Solenoid which I suspect is for the brake lights...Remember, the steps will not operate even with the motor running.....A few days ago I tapped on the motor several different times and it just so happened that the steps started working but then stopped again...I guess I also should mention that the rig has 20,000 miles on it, we have owned it since new and we do spend considerable time at the beach both in Central California and Southern Oregon..So I am suspecting some rust although I do keep the coach very clean and enclosed during storage...In fact, we are headed to the Kite Festival in Bookings Oregon on Saturday..I guess we will just use a step ladder in the mean time...At this point I am suspecting a bad motor unless anybody has any other idea's...Also looks like quite a chore to replace it myself...Any other trouble shooting thoughts or should I just order a new Motor ?? Thanks in advance everyone...

scdave · 07-08-2010, 12:54 PM

By the way "Mrtransistor"...Thanks for the armature information...It just so happens I am familiar with them...I built slot cars in the 60's for both myself and for sale...We wound all of our racing armatures ourselves...The motor appears sealed so I am not quite sure if I can get to the armature...Clay L gave me a reference to re-build it for $75. with a three day turn around...Won't help for this coming week but if I can get the thing out of there that seems like a cost effective repair...

MrTransistor · 07-08-2010, 01:16 PM

Hello scdave,

A $75 rebuild sounds reasonable enough. I do believe I would verify the failure, if possible, with a voltmeter connected to the motor leads to verify the presence of 12 volts during actuation. Good luck. Enjoy the birds.

"007" · 07-08-2010, 01:20 PM

When you lift the brake pedal you are operating a switch that follows the brake travel when brake is returned to its most upper position steps will work. If not the control lead back to steps is open and will not open step.
The brake switch affects both your steps and Cruise Control system.
Unless your rubber man you need help with someone lifting brake pedal and some one operating door.
The switch plunger can be adjusted.
Thats why I have a spring on Master Cylinder
rod to make sure the brake pedal returns to its idle position. I earlier post this picture of Zerk fitting on bell crank shaft which some have had placed.
Here is more information relating to Zerk fitting and the brake issue.