Winnebago roof complaints - Page 2

Don-Savannah, GA · 09-10-2003, 05:51 PM

Larry,
The "need" is probably because you have a Winnebago! That said, the way to find out if yours is separating is to push on the roof, just above the drip rail edge, if you can press on it and the seam opens you have the "need". There are areas where it can't be pushed in, even if the joint is bad, that is where the roof supports are. My advice is to order a roll of Eternabond, cut it to 1-1/2' width and stick it on the full length of the seam, then you can sleep better at night.

Don Harris
Savannah, GA
1999 Winnebago Adventurer, 35C, Class A, Ford V10, 20,500 GVWR chassis.
1995 Saturn SW2 Toad, Blue Ox Aventa towing system, SMI Toad brake.

LMB · 09-10-2003, 05:59 PM

Thanks Don. I have the Need!
Tape on order!
Thanks, Larry

Sharon & Jim Cook · 09-10-2003, 07:29 PM

I read of this problem on another web site right before we were to leave Texas last April. Sure enough when my husband checked he found the roof was not tight to the sealant the entire length on both sides. Needless to say we stayed over and made an appointment with the local Winnebago dealer. They resealed both sides and charged a little of $200.00. Now it's September and again an area above the slide-out is coming loose. My question about the eternabond is if you are cutting it to 1 1/2 inches are you making two cuts on the 4" wide roll and isn't that difficult to manage? Can you use it 2" wide if you just cut it half?

Jim & Sharon Cook
W8WKE & KC8TFN
Xenia, Ohio
2000 Journey 36L
Toad 2002 Pontiac Grand Am GT
Blue Ox Aladin Tow Bar
Brake Buddy
Fulltimers since Jan 1, 1999

Gadget Man · 09-11-2003, 02:46 PM

Jim & Sharon,

>>Can you use it 2" wide if you just cut it half?<<

Absolutely...don't see why this would be a problem.

Craig

1998 Winnebago Adventurer 30W
V-10 Enhanced with Banks
2001 Suzuki XL-7 4x4 Toad
Yamaha WaveRaider
Sea-Doo GTX Limited

LMB · 09-11-2003, 05:34 PM

At the risk of beating this horse to death, can the Eternabond tape be treated as if it were part of the coach, ie: washed, waxed, etc.?
Larry

Gadget Man · 09-12-2003, 10:36 AM

Larry,

Yes, it can be washed and waxed and etc.

Craig

1998 Winnebago Adventurer 30W
V-10 Enhanced with Banks
2001 Suzuki XL-7 4x4 Toad
Yamaha WaveRaider
Sea-Doo GTX Limited

LMB · 09-12-2003, 06:21 PM

Thanks Craig, just checking,
Larry

clipperbob · 09-13-2003, 01:47 PM

The current Winnebago roof skin warranty is 10 years? Why should all this be an issue to the Owners?

Bob, Diane, the kid and the dogs
2001 Coachmen Catalina Sport 195 rk
2003 Jeep Rubicon
Baltimore, MD
<a href="http://www.wunderground.com/US/MD/Phoenix.html">
<img src="http://banners.wunderground.com/banner/gizmotimetemp_both/language/www/US/MD/Phoenix.gif"

CaptBill · 09-13-2003, 03:59 PM

Bob, you are correct; the roof skin warranty is 10 years, but that is only on the material as supplied to Winnebago. The roof installation is one year, along with the rest of the motorhome. The roof panels aren't failing, so the 10 year warranty wouldn't apply. The roof SEALANT is what could fail, by seperating from the surface to which it is applied. The routine inspections will catch this, and the old sealant can be cut out, the area cleaned with a thinnner, and new adhesive/sealant applied.

By the way, if the sealant seperates from the roof panel or J channel, you won't have a water leak inside the rig because the J channel where the roof panel is tucked into doesn't have an opening into the wall cavity. But if a sudden strong gust of wind caught the roof from the side where the adhesive was no longer holding, the roof panel could 'flip' up out of the J, allowing the wind to get under the panel and tear it.

CaptBill
Indian River, De
2002 Horizon 36LD

traveler of california · 09-30-2003, 03:06 PM

I ordered 2" tape from eternabond and am awaiting delivery. My question: When doing the seam along the sides do you overlap the awning rails? I can't see any other way to accomplish the sealing.

Nick, Journey '01

Don-Savannah, GA · 09-30-2003, 05:13 PM

Nick,
I have not seen the roof connection on an '01 Journey, same reason I did not go into candy stores as a poor child! My MH has a combination metal molding, the top exposed area is the gutter shaped like a U, just under it is the awning slot shaped like a C. When I applied the Eternabond I inserted one edge into the top of the U and the opposited edge on the roof. Putting one edge into the U restricted its width a little bit and perhaps its ability to drain but I don't think it is appreciable.
I read a post that someone said they could not install the Eternabond because of the awning rail, maybe some models don't have the combination molding! Best way to find out is to get a ladder, either a 10' or extension so you can actually see what you have. Post us if it is not a combination molding so we can keep others informed.

Don Harris
Savannah, GA
1999 Winnebago Adventurer, 35C, Class A, Ford V10, 20,500 GVWR chassis.
1995 Saturn SW2 Toad, Blue Ox Aventa towing system, SMI Toad brake.

misjcy · 10-01-2003, 05:57 AM

We have a 2003 Suncruiser 33V and I wanted to know if Winne has fixed this problem on the later models or do I still need to be concerned about the separation?

Also, if the roll comes in 2" width, why bother cutting off 1/2"? Seems like it would take time and if you don't cut it straight, look bad?

thanks, jim

Don-Savannah, GA · 10-01-2003, 05:01 PM

Jim,
Until recently the tape was not available in 2", only 4". I actually cut mine off 2-1" strips for the roof/gutter joint and used the 2" balance on the front and rear caps. You can use any width you desire.

Don Harris
Savannah, GA
1999 Winnebago Adventurer, 35C, Class A, Ford V10, 20,500 GVWR chassis.
1995 Saturn SW2 Toad, Blue Ox Aventa towing system, SMI Toad brake.

CaptBill · 10-01-2003, 05:07 PM

We have a 2003 Suncruiser 33V and I wanted to know if Winne has fixed this problem on the later models or do I still need to be concerned about the separation?

Jim, I'm not sure what you mean by this. This roof design is not "a problem" unless one doesn't follow the roof to wall sealant inspection (and replacement as necessary) procedures. They are built the same way they have always been. The "sealant", really a urethane adhesive, is used to bond the roof material in the "J" channel. During the inspection, when you press against to roof panel just abouve the "J", if you see a gap between it and the sealant, it's time for some clean-out of that section, and replacing with the correct material, which on an unpainted fiberglass roof, is urethane adhesive, p/n 072889-10-000; $7.40 tube plus hazmat shipping.

CaptBill
Indian River, De
2002 Horizon 36LD

misjcy · 10-02-2003, 06:44 AM

CaptBill, thanks for the reply.

I define a ˜problem' as a situation which requires attention in order to prevent extensive and compounding damage to the area in concern or adjacent parts/systems, outside of normal, generally understood wear/tear and common sense maintence (oil change, etc.)

Since Winnebago requires checking roof line sealant adhesion every six months, and making this a ˜required' maintenance item, which if not done voids the warranty, proves they know this is not just an infrequent issue. How many other non-dynamic systems (dynamic being lubricants, tire air-pressure, etc.) on the MH do they require mandatory 6 month inspection or the warranty is void? NONE! The closest system to which the roof line sealant issue would apply would be the windshield. Yet, there is no 6 month inspection requirement on this. Why? Because there is no issue with failure on this system.

Why won't Winnebago just redesign the roof/"J" channel attachment areas to take care of this problem. Obviously they have known about this for years and I'm sure they have tried to limit their liability by making the 10 year roof warranty valid for the FIRST owner ONLY!!! This really pisses me off because we bought our 2003 Suncruser used, with 9,000 miles, and it was first registered just nine months previously. It still had three months of factory warranty remaining, but NO ROOF WARRANTY!!!!

Plus, in your post, you say the roofs... ˜are built the same way they have always been.' My point exactly. Why not improve the design? Also, from the factory, why do they use ˜in-correct' material instead of the ˜correct' urethane adhesive?

This is why I called this ˜a problem' and not a maintenance issue.

Please don't get me wrong. I love this MH. We can't wait to go out as often as possible and rant/rave about how great it is.

But come on! Call ˜a problem' a problem when it really is and not a maintenance issue.

Thanks, jim

[This message was edited by misjcy on Thu October 02 2003 at 01:03 PM.]

Izzyblueye · 10-02-2003, 07:17 AM

JIM: Your post is right on. It is succinct and IMHO should be on the President of WIT's desk along with a copy to your Attorney General. Our accepting the status quo is not going to get things made any better.

2001 Itasca Suncruiser 32V

LMB · 10-02-2003, 08:10 AM

CaptBill, not to pick on you, but your last post about the replacement of the "correct" material for sealing the roof caught my eye. Are you saying that the tape is not a good idea or that one is better than the other? I am STILL waiting for the 2" eternabond tape to be shipped, 3 weeks and no light at the end of the tunnel. I talked to the guys at Roofers Tools and Equip. and they are rather casual about follow up on shipping or, who knows, maybe ordering as well.
I may cancell the order and use the caulk method so I can get on the road.
Larry

rvten · 10-02-2003, 12:07 PM

boy: Sent an e-mail to Winn. last night. They called me today and said to just inspect the roof seal and repair as needed. the person I talked to said to use silacone sealent/adhesive that you can buy from Home Depot or any hardware store. Do this every 6 months. Make sure you clean out the old material and wipe with alcohal to clean. Than fill the opening. We had a Pace Arrow with a rubber roof. Fleetwood also wanted it inspected every 6 months for the same thing.

Tom & Bonnie
Gardens RV Village
Crossville, TN
Winn. Adventurer 35U
W-20 8.1 Vortec

CaptBill · 10-02-2003, 03:15 PM

Jim, I understand your point, but the reason that I don't think this is a "problem" or bad design is that of the tens of thousands (dare I say a hundred thousand?) of these Winnebagos built this way, you can only find a handful of people that have actually experienced a problem, and I would bet that of those that did, it is even a much smaller number that performed the routine inspection/sealant replacement per Winnebago. I think if Winnebago had a "bad design" in this roof, they would have stopped using it a lonnnng time ago, not just put a requirement for 6 month inspections in the manual.

What do you think about Monaco's requirement to inspect the sealant on all of their windows in their motorhomes, every 6 months. They say if you don't, there is no warranty on sidewall delamination. They even say that you may have to remove all the windows from the coach to properly clean off the seperated sealant and re-seal. How about that?

And I know that you've probably heard this before, but is it really different that making sure you weigh your motorhome, front and rear axles, and then routinely (weekly) checking air pressure and maintaining it as required. If you don't do that, and have a tire failure, you're sitting out there with no tire warranty.

With regard to the 10 year original owner warranty, yes it's a shame it's not transferrable, but I doubt anybody really has any warranty replacement during that 10 years anyway. Did you know that the warranty is only on failure of the fiberglass material itself, and not on the integrity of the completed roof? That's right, if the material failed (delaminated or whatever), they would replace that roof panel, but we'd still have to pay for the labor after the first year. And the warranty does not cover sealants, so that's a moot point anyway.

Do you know how your roof is actually made, and what holds it on? I am not being a smart A$$ here. Many people have heard so many stories flying around on the internet that they "know" they must be true.

Even without ANY sealant ever applied to the roof to J channel, your roof will not blow off, and it will not leak. That is by design. The roof is bonded to the supporting structure over the entire flat area. If water leaks into the J channel, it cannot enter the interior of the walls structure. See attached drawing at http://www.qrents.com/images/roof2wall.jpg. The J channel adhesive retains the edge of the fiberglass roof panel in the J, so if a VERY strong gust of wind hit the motorhome from the side, it would not be "flipped" out of that channel.

Some people have put an end to the roof inspections but applying EternaBond. I've never used it one any of the 3 Winnebago class A's that I had, but I hear it is a great product. If it holds up as they claim, it should be more or less permament. The part number that I posted earlier is the correct material for unpainted WI roof to sidewall joints. It is their latest (2002) information and I would venture so far as to say some of those guys at WI customer service haven't read it themselves, and are saying use silicone. I wouldn't use silicone. Silicone sealant is not a very good adhesive, and should not be used for the roof. An elastomeric adhesive/sealant, which is an excellent adhesive, is what you need. If applied to clean and dry surfaces, it will bond tenaciously for years, and your 6 month inspection will only serve to reassure that all is well. There is also another product, made by 3M, and found in boating supply store and Home Depot and Lowes, called 5200, that I would use as a substitute. It is bright white, and when cured, is permanent. It will even cure under water.

I like WI motorhomes, even with their inspection requirements. Overall, I think they are a good design, well build, and provide reliability and longevity. All things considered, I still think they beat the others for the money.

CaptBill
Indian River, De
2002 Horizon 36LD

Buddy & Jenna Kidd · 10-02-2003, 04:03 PM

Well said CaptBill.

Buddy & Jenna Kidd
Oklahoma City, OK
2001 Horzion
2000 Saturn, BrakeBuddy
WIT 103677, FMCA F291518