Windshield Leak - Page 2

Bob and Vicki · 12-09-2009, 06:35 PM

PeterB
Thanks for the photos and instructions. Our windshield has leaked for a few years. This last week I had the guts to dig into it and repair it. The rust was very minor a wire wheel cleaned it right up. Then some primer, then black paint and let it dry for a couple days. Sticky tape the channel back in place and seal the windshield with some 3M windshield sealer/glue. Was an easy fix. However, I don't think that it's going to rain again when we're driving, ever!

2006 Meridian 36G

ROMAD · 01-22-2010, 09:36 PM

I wanted to say thanks to PeteB for the excellent photos and instructions on resealing the windshields on our coaches. After two botched attempts by Camping World, I repaired it myself. PeteB's pictures looked just like the corrosion I found when I got through a pound of caulk that had been put on over the rust. The top of the driver side glass was no longer attached to the metal frame. Cleaned it all up, treated the rust and painted the metal then resealed the glass. Will put the channel and rubber strip on tomorrow after everything has time to cure. A lot of ladder time, but not a difficult repair.

AFChap · 01-23-2010, 04:28 PM

Quote:

I have an 07 Safari Simba. The windshield became so loose that it pulled away from the top enough so that I can stick my finger through the opening. <snip> The glass installers claim that there is no frame in mine.

Yep, you are on the Winnebago Owner's Forum here ... I have read of many problems with Safari & Monaco like you describe ... and some with Newmar. They are TOTALLY different from Winnebago in terms of windshield frame (which is part of the steel roll cage around the driver compartment). On many motorhomes, the windshield is secured into the fiberglass front cap with a rubber seal. On a Winnebago, the rubber seal around the fiberglass front cap is not a part of the windshield seal at all ... the windshield is a part of the underlying metal framework.

azloafer · 01-24-2010, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AFChap

Yep, you are on the Winnebago Owner's Forum here ... I have read of many problems with Safari & Monaco like you describe ... and some with Newmar. They are TOTALLY different from Winnebago in terms of windshield frame (which is part of the steel roll cage around the driver compartment). On many motorhomes, the windshield is secured into the fiberglass front cap with a rubber seal. On a Winnebago, the rubber seal around the fiberglass front cap is not a part of the windshield seal at all ... the windshield is a part of the underlying metal framework.

Wouldn't a stainless steel trim solve this rust problem. It probably boils down to money.

I just recently bought a Winnebago Itasca so that is why I am here in the Winnebago section.

ROMAD · 01-24-2010, 11:04 PM

I do not think stainless steel trim would help. It all boils down to making sure the windshields are installed correctly and take care of any rust that is found around where the glass is glued on. Keeping the rust in check will insure that the corrosion does not case a failure of the steel cage to the glass. If in doubt, remove the rubber strip at the top and center of the windshields ( they just pull out of a plastic channel and is easily replaced) and inspect the condition of the metal surfaces. Not a difficult job but one you need to keep on top of.

AFChap · 01-25-2010, 08:47 PM

I agree that stainless steel trim would not make any difference ...maybe make the entire steel roll cage and the integrated windshield out of stainless steel??

The steel is dipped with an anti-corrision treatment during the build process, but obviously it still does rust when water gets at it. The rubber molding around the glass keeps most water out, but not all. My only rust problem on the glass frame thus far appeared to be the result of a leaking clearance lamp, and the water trickled down the inside of the cap to the frame where it sat and did it's damage over a long period of time.

SeaRay · 01-26-2010, 03:29 PM

I have a question about repairing the leak. I have put eternabond around the roof seam and around the antenna and across the center frot cap. Also caulked around the clearance lights. Still have a leak that drips down onto the middle center of the dash between the instrument panel and the windshield. I am assuming the windshield is the source. A reputable glass company locally told me that they would reseal it without removing the windshield for $45. It would be a cheap fix but I wonder if it will fix the problem. They claim to have repaired several this way with sucess.
Probably worth $45 to find out. Any thoughts?
Thanks
SeaRay

AFChap · 01-26-2010, 03:52 PM

SeaRay ... if the metal frame shows any rust, particularly in the area of the leak, that rust needs to be cleaned up and sprayed with a cure or it will continue and can possibly crack the glass.

SeaRay · 04-24-2010, 09:14 AM

Well as you might guess, the quick (5 minute) fix did nothing to stop my leak. All the dufus did was dab some caulk along the top of the windshield and charge me $45.
I will try pulling the rubber seal and whatever else covers the windshield and see if I can clean up the metal and is so, I will try cutting a strip of eternabond tape and sealing the windshield to the frame with it.
We recently sealed the roof caps on both sides with this stuff and I am convinced that if you can get it in the right place, no water will get past it.
SeaRay

Rick Stephenson · 04-25-2010, 07:49 PM

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the vast majority of the steps you are planning to take I have done with no success. The final solution is to remove the glass panes, reconstruct the the frame, and re-install the glass panes. I had this done late last summer and the dash has remained nice and dry.

bubbarv · 04-26-2010, 05:22 AM

Well, our new to us Winnebago has a very slow leak, so I'll be taking a look at it this morning. I've got what may be a dumb question:

To do the procedure that Pete B. outlines, you can leave the windshields in, correct? This'll probably become clear once I get the trim piece out, but just in case...

Thanks to all!

Wayne M · 04-26-2010, 11:18 AM

Searay,
If it is a rusted frame, which is typical with a Winnebago, sealing and taping is only going to be a temporary measure. The rust needs to be treated and taken care of and then resealing the glass will work. I was fortunate that mine was under warranty. Just think, a 2008 Winnebago with a windshield frame rust problem. Now I thought that the chassis was "dipped" at the factory. I'm finding lots of little hidden places that have plates, etc., that were added on after the dip that are forming surface rust. I'm taking care of them as I see them.

Good luck.

john5 · 05-16-2010, 07:49 PM

Hi Pete, everyone mentions removing rust but no one has mentioned if the windshield has to be removed first. thanks

Dunnpe · 08-07-2010, 01:06 PM

Pete, I had the exact same thing under my double sided tape. I was really amazed how much rust was there. I did not have any rust through areas thankfully.
I am in the process now of applying the rust converter/preventer and will be reinstalling the channel and trim per your instructions. Thanks again for the write up. The project was relatively simple. I just set up ladders and planks to provide a good area to work on the rust. Thanks PeteD

Navy Flier · 08-07-2010, 10:27 PM

During GNR I went on the factory tour through the chassis prep building. That is where they put the front steel cage on and install the windshield and the instrument panel. The only thing that holds the windshield on is the adhesive used to bond it to the cage. It is true that the entire cage is dipped several times just like auto bodies. I would doubt that there is a single spot on the cage that would be missed. That having been said I did not go to the main assembly line to see what was done when they installed the front cap. That would be of interest. In addition to the dipping there was quite a bit of anti-rust coating applied after the dipping. It was done in areas they had to drill to attach various parts and pieces. It is possible (probable?) that more attachments are made on the assembly line. It would be a good thing for someone going on a plant tour to ask about.

JTN50 · 08-09-2010, 06:02 AM

I have a 2002 Winnebago and have had the same problem. I went to Camping World and purchased a rubber windsheild gutter and installed it above the existing rubber trim peice and have had no problems since. I realize the metal is more then likely rusted and I will have to face the fact that I may have to make major repairs at a latter date or else trade the unit for a newer one.

ChiefJohn · 08-09-2010, 07:29 AM

Our 2008 Vectra has had the same problem since we purchased the coach. Dealer tried and failed to repair, a factory visit in April on this problem did not stop the leak. We're going back next month and 'hope' for the best.

traveler of california · 08-09-2010, 02:46 PM

We went to CW and also purchased the gutter and have had the same results.

Nick

Dunnpe · 08-09-2010, 05:16 PM

Jtn50 and Nick, the gutter seems to work for you from water coming off the roof, but if you get caught in a rain storm while driving the water will come up the windshield and make its way under the rubber trim and behind the rest of the sealants where they are breaking away from the rust and result in the leak. Hope you don't have rust but it is not that hard to repair per PeterB's instructions.

JTN50 · 08-10-2010, 05:39 AM

Once I got the gutter installed I tested it with a water hose and found that when I sprayed the water at the windshield it indeed went up and under the rubber trim and leaked inside. I then wiped the water from under the trim cleaned it with Acetone and installed a very small bead of silcone caulk at the top of the windshield. This fixed the problem of the water coming up and under the rubber trim.