water heater drip

Lil'Darlin1972 · 05-07-2007, 04:50 PM

<span class="ev_code_PURPLE">We have a slow drip coming from the outside water heater area. It seems to be coming from the valve. Is this common, or should be try to fix it ??Thanks

</span>

Lil'Darlin1972 · 05-07-2007, 04:50 PM

<span class="ev_code_PURPLE">We have a slow drip coming from the outside water heater area. It seems to be coming from the valve. Is this common, or should be try to fix it ??Thanks

</span>

Trek-Cyclist · 05-07-2007, 04:55 PM

Sometimes the pressure valve doesn't seat right.
You might try to open it very quickly and let it snap shut. Watch out for hot water spraying out... You can shut the water off and open the hot water faucet first to relieve the pressure first... I like the quick snap method myself... If it's leaking at the threads it might have to be tightend or be removed. You can use teflon tape on the threads to help seal it... when or if you need to replace it.

Rick Buddrus · 05-07-2007, 05:26 PM

~Shannone & Chad

NOT common, fix it ASAP.

Y-Guy · 05-07-2007, 05:35 PM

I had a small leak from mine too. Seemed to be only during our long trip with us plugged in and using the 110v heater. I have it on my list of items to watch to see if it continues. As Ed mentioned I did open and close it (with water pressure off) and that did seem to help.

PS: Did you have issues with a leak in your large driver side storage bin?

Lil'Darlin1972 · 05-07-2007, 05:45 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I had a small leak from mine too. Seemed to be only during our long trip with us plugged in and using the 110v heater. I have it on my list of items to watch to see if it continues. As Ed mentioned I did open and close it (with water pressure off) and that did seem to help.

<span class="ev_code_PURPLE">That is the only time ours leaks as well and so far we are just using the "snap" method to fix it.</span>

PS: Did you have issues with a leak in your large driver side storage bin?

<span class="ev_code_PURPLE">Not that we have noticed. I have read that it is a common issue with our model. We keep the kids outdoor toys in that bin. It is supposed to rain the next few days so I will check it out and report back.</span> </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Y-Guy · 05-07-2007, 06:01 PM

I'm thinking that the electric water heater might need adjusting (if it can be done) - we're going out this weekend and lucked out and got electrical hook ups so I'll see if the electrical is the cause.

Our dealer got our leak fixed, I have a feeling its one of those common problems that they know how to fix quickly now.

NeilV · 05-07-2007, 06:04 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Lil'Darlin1972:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I had a small leak from mine too. Seemed to be only during our long trip with us plugged in and using the 110v heater. I have it on my list of items to watch to see if it continues. As Ed mentioned I did open and close it (with water pressure off) and that did seem to help.

<span class="ev_code_PURPLE">That is the only time ours leaks as well and so far we are just using the "snap" method to fix it.</span>

PS: Did you have issues with a leak in your large driver side storage bin?

<span class="ev_code_PURPLE">Not that we have noticed. I have read that it is a common issue with our model. We keep the kids outdoor toys in that bin. It is supposed to rain the next few days so I will check it out and report back.</span> </div></BLOCKQUOTE> </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

When I had a new Atwood water heater installed in my last coach the relief valve started to drip and flicking it worked at first however the problem was that the temperature limit switches were not properly installed and not making good contact with the tank. The adhesive insulating tape was all that was holding them tight and as the tape started to pull away the heater ran hotter and hotter and the leak got worse until I had steam comming out of the shower which thankfully happened while cleaning the surround not while anyone was showering. We were able to get the surround bonded back in place and simply pealing back the insulating tape and pressing the mounting tabs down got the limit switches back in place. The damage the steam did above the water heater to the outside access panel for the refridgerator was a bit more difficult to fix as it had melted and deformed quite a bit but it got done with some moderate work with a heat gun.

Have the limit switches checked and make sure that they are not loose. If I had not caught mine in time the side wall above the water heater was at risk and the damage could have been much worse.

Dsouthw524 · 05-08-2007, 03:27 AM

The water heater needs to have an air space inside it to allow for the water expansion when it is heated. If there is no/not enough air space the pressure relief valve must allow for the extra pressure to vent or explode.

The opening of the valve (pressure off) is one way to allow water out and air in to the system.. Coaches that have long periods of use having water in them frequently have this system and the above is one way of solving the problem.

Izzyblueye · 05-08-2007, 04:12 AM

If your reasonably sure the leak is at the relief valve, turn the water off, drain some out by opening the relief valve. This replaces the air pocket that should be inside the tank. However if it is getting damp in the adjoining bin or it is seeping from under the tank as mine just did. I had to have the check valves replaced and some fittings retightened on the rear of the HWH to stop the seep.

FrontRangeRVer · 05-08-2007, 04:12 AM

Shannone...try standing back a bit, and opening the relief valve a couple of times to release the pressure and maybe re-seat it...

That should do it....

FrankO · 05-08-2007, 04:31 AM

The relief valve is common in all hot water heaters. The are designed it let off pressure for expansion as mentioned above If you look at your home H/W Heater the valve is usually attached to a copper pipe to a near by drain. Your MH heater works the same so a little drip now and then when in use is considered normal. The Winnie OM Vol 1 H/W Heater section page 5 mentions it as well. If you see lots of dripping and the reset does not have an affect I would investigate more.
Frank O.

DanS · 05-08-2007, 04:46 AM

I just replaced my valve. They go bad over time. If the "snap" method mentioned earlier doesn't work, just replace it. It is a 1/2 inch threaded valve available at RV stores. Home Depot/Lowe's don't have the 1/2 inch size.

It's very easy to replace. Take pressure/heat off of the heater and unscrew the valve. Clean up the threads, apply pipe tape to the male threads and screw it in. While your at it, flush out the hot water heater to clean out the crud. Costs $15 for the part at a local rv store.

DanS
99 Adventurer DP

Lil'Darlin1972 · 05-08-2007, 05:30 AM

<span class="ev_code_PURPLE">Thanks everyone

</span>

Veckert · 05-08-2007, 01:29 PM

On occasion, water may be seen seeping from the water heater pressure relief valve. This is no cause for repair or replacement of the valve. Normally there is an air gap at the top of the water heater tank which acts as s pressure buffer. In time, however, heated water may expand and fill this air gap, causing a slight increase in water pressure. This may cause the P-T valve to "weep" until the air gap is manually replaced.

OPERATE THIS VALVE ONLY WHEN THE WATER HEATER AND COOLING S\YSTEM ARE COLD!

To replace the Air Gap:

1. Turn off the water heater switch and incoming water supply (city water and/or demand pump).
2. Open a faucet in the motor home to relieve water pressure.
3. Pull the handle of the P-T valve straight out and allow water to flow until it stops.
4. Let the handle of the P-T valve snap shut.
5. Close the faucet and turn on the water supply before switching the water heater on.

Manually operate the pressure temperature relief valve at least once a year.

Y-Guy · 05-08-2007, 01:53 PM

Great info I'll not worry about our heater at this time

DSGEM · 05-08-2007, 05:30 PM

I noticed the same drip out of my water heater as well. It helped to trip the release valve as everyone else has said, but I have it on the list to have it looked at.

Y-Guy, my drivers side store more compartment leaks as well. I believe the seal is where it is leaking. I put some pipe insulation along the edge and that has helped, but I will have them do a permanant fix when it heads to the shop. What did your dealer say?

Y-Guy · 05-08-2007, 06:01 PM

DSGEM here is what was written on the work order by our dealer. "Inspected. Added sealant to point where wires enter storage, tested no leaks." They also said that all three doors were not latched at the back catch. Which I question since I always press my knee against the front and back of each storage door. Either way it doesn't appear to leak as I hosed the slide out down and sprayed up on top of the storage bin and it was still dry.

dirko · 05-09-2007, 12:04 AM

Hi Ho: As far as I know the T-P or OTP valve that is used in MH's is the same one used on residential water heaters. I put it in the same catagory as replacing spark plugs: If I go to the trouble of taking it out, I just replace it. They are about $5 or $6 at any hardware store. The one on our Adventurer leaked shortly after we got it. I replaced it as we made a stop at some store for groceries. Teflon tape is good. It took about 10 minutes in all and cost about $5. It hasn't leaked since. I have probably replaced 8 or 10 in rental appartmnets over the years. Just not a big deal.
Guten Tag from Jena, Germany

NeilV · 05-09-2007, 01:29 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Lil'Darlin1972:
<span class="ev_code_PURPLE">We have a slow drip coming from the outside water heater area. It seems to be coming from the valve. Is this common, or should be try to fix it ??Thanks

</span> </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Shannone,

You have a new coach under warrenty. If your water heater is leaking have it checked out and documented under the warrenty.

I maintained hundreds of apartments and several commercial instalations with water heaters and boilers ranging into the thousands of gallons including a decomissioned steam engine used as a heating plant in an old mill. When any safety device releases, even partially, good practice dictates that you verify that the unsafe condition that it serves to protect you from is not occurring or on the cuspice of becoming an event.

Have the water heater checked for temperature and pressure limits and if the limit switches are defective have them replaced. If it is just a defective P&T Valve then fine have that replaced instead. Why fool around guessing especially on a new coach.