Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-19-2020, 10:42 AM   #1
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 18
Urethane sealant (Manus bond) application

Need to reseal the roof to sidewall joint on out 2001 Adventurer. The picture is what I am dealing with. From right to left, fiberglass roof, very thin existing bead of caulk, gap (which I think should be filled), metal track that holds the awning, finally the awning itself.
Pretty certain nothing has ever been redone here, but sure seems like the original bead s/b bigger.
Sealant call out sheet calls for p/n 072889-10-000. The ď10Ē is a different number for different years which is guess is a color code.
Any thoughts or input will be appreciated. Maybe even a picture of how it should look.
Thanks, Phil
Click image for larger version

Name:	0B8CECA8-2969-42BE-B5A7-B784FFA53A08.jpg
Views:	59
Size:	155.9 KB
ID:	173558
Skipperphil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2020, 11:01 AM   #2
Site Team
 
ThomB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Pinellas Park, FL
Posts: 545
It doesn't look like your roof radius is painted, correct? The material to use differes (I beleive) when it is and isn't. I used the Manus bond on my painted radius/joint. I'm not sure I know what to use otherwise.
__________________
Thom Boles
2010 Winnebago Vista 32K with a 2013 Mini Cooper S Roadster toad.
ThomB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2020, 11:03 AM   #3
Site Team
 
ThomB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Pinellas Park, FL
Posts: 545
I found this old thread...


https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...nt-103789.html
__________________
Thom Boles
2010 Winnebago Vista 32K with a 2013 Mini Cooper S Roadster toad.
ThomB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2020, 11:22 AM   #4
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 18
Thanks, ThomB for the reply, a lot of good info. Iím using my phone now and will get on the computer where I can study it better.
The Winnebago part number I used (072889-10-000) is referred to as Manus bond or Manus urethane on the Lichtsinn RV website. A pretty slick deal, get on the website, put in a part number and a little other info and get a price quote quickly.
Skipperphil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2020, 11:34 AM   #5
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 18
BTW, in the picture I sent, as ThomB pointed out, the roof is not painted. Jus a coating of dirt over the original white gel coat.
Phil
Skipperphil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2020, 12:07 PM   #6
Site Team
 
creativepart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Spring Branch, TX
Posts: 2,645
There's a tech on YouTube (AZEXPERT) that does a lot of videos on Winnebago roof resealing and he recommends, ProFlex Clear Urithane rather than Manus Bond.

I used Manus bond on my roof radius and it was kind of difficult to work with. It's not self-leveling and VERY sticky.

Here's a Video on the process:

__________________
2017 Winnebago Adventurer 37F
2016 Lincoln MKX Toad
creativepart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2020, 10:58 PM   #7
Site Team
 
macnut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 970
Great video. Thatís how I re-caulked the rook line in my Sunstar in year three of owning it. Getting the caulking under the fiberglass was really important. Using the tape made the look good.
__________________
2017 Adventurer 35P, towing 2014 Honda CRV
macnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2020, 07:25 PM   #8
Winnebago Owner
 
ftodaro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 53
I used Manus Bond 75 on my fiberglass roof seam. I did not find it difficult to deal with. The hard part was cleaning out the old material and make sure it was dry before i applied it. On a 36 foot DP I used about 3 tubes. Its held up well over the last 3 years.
__________________
Frank
2001 Itasca Horizon
24' Enclosed Car Hauler
ftodaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2020, 10:12 PM   #9
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,289
You do have to clean along with dry down inside the joint and the Manus Bond should not create a large bead since it goes inside the joint between the fiberglass and the aluminum channel, not just on top of the edge of the aluminum channel and fiberglass or else you will not get a good bond.

Note that Manus Bond has a relatively short shelf life of 9 months from date of manufacture so refuse anything that is even close to 9 months old. For the best results you only want Manus Bond that is within a few months from the date of manufacture which is stamped on the tubes.

The last time I bought any from LazyDays in Sefner Florida every tube they had in stock was well past 1 year old so basically out of warranty from Manus and unusable for a Winnebago Roof Seam.
__________________
Neil V
2001 Winnebago Adventurer WFG35U
NeilV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2020, 07:55 AM   #10
Winnebago Owner
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 16
Roof edge seal

We did a thorough cleaning out the old caulking, etc. and put a 2" Eternabond strip around the whole thing. Looks a lot better and seals very well. Hoping it will be the last time for awhile.
__________________
Chuckmor
2000 Winnebago Adventurer, 32
Houston, Texas
Chuckmor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2020, 09:43 AM   #11
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 1,842
The keys to a good Eternabond application are:

1. Clean surface.

2. No voids, make sure the tape is firmly pressed down using a rubber roller or other tools. A wallpaper seam roller is good for tight spots.
__________________
Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
W20 Chassis
BobC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2020, 10:14 AM   #12
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 22
Fiberglass roof caulking

Just completed my 2012 Sunstar roof line. Years of watching roof tread, found the YouTube video posted by CREATIVEPART, decided to give it a try. Used his referenced (very sticky) adhesive available through Amazon. Qualify: my final product was not near as neat but very functional. First 6 ft at front found myself wondering why I was wasting the effort. Midway I discovered what all the posting was about-very little force required to separate roof membrane from rail tuck. More importantly, upon removing old caulk discovered water under the caulk causing plywood deterioration. I (as usual) went beyond: cleaning/removing old caulk, inserting 3/16-1/4 spacers in seam, applying caulk forcing it deep into seam with putty knife, allow to cure several days, remove spacers, caulk void: then move on to next 6-8 ft section. This quarantine period was salvation preventing expensive roof separation.
Retired FF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2020, 10:24 AM   #13
Site Team
 
creativepart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Spring Branch, TX
Posts: 2,645
I took this opportunity to better caulk the Front Cap radius as shown in the video. His video really helped me do a better job.

I had already cleaned out the caulking on the side pieces where I had a small leak and filled those with Manus 75 but I had not done a good job of doing the entire area. So, like in the video I put down painters tape first. Ah ha! that was key. Added the black Manus 75 liberally, sprayed it with Windex. Another Ah Ha! Smoothed it out with a gloved finger.

When I removed the tape about 10-mins later the job finally was done right and even looked good. So, I also did the non-leaking passenger side.

I did look at my side rails. The caulking is ageing but not cracked or peeling. I can't see doing that job without a scaffold. In fact, I can see doing that job at all. I might take it to Phoenix and let AZEXPERT do it.
__________________
2017 Winnebago Adventurer 37F
2016 Lincoln MKX Toad
creativepart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2020, 12:30 AM   #14
Winnebago Owner
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 54
Eternabond

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckmor View Post
We did a thorough cleaning out the old caulking, etc. and put a 2" Eternabond strip around the whole thing. Looks a lot better and seals very well. Hoping it will be the last time for awhile.
I went with Eternabond after re-caulking that little seam for years.Very happy I did. Seals well and holds the roof down in its groove. Surface prep is the key. I used lacquer thinner then acetone. Eternabond is very sticky, once it touches something it is tough to get off. Once down roll it down hard and then it wont come off. It does require washing once in a while just like everything else. I'v had mine on for 3 years with no issues.
I worked from top leaning over the edge on my belly. Scaffolding would be easier if you have it.
Lots of posts on irv2.com
__________________
03 Workhorse 22K Winnebago Adventurer 35U
2012 Honda CRV and 2001 Nissan Frontier
Fletcher0077 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
cat, seal


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Help please, roof sealant Manus-75, Nuflex 311, ProflexRV or Lexel chrisking Winnebago Class A Motorhomes 3 08-08-2018 04:38 PM
Where to buy Manus 75 AM malk415 Winnebago General Discussions 7 05-09-2012 07:54 PM
Eternabond Application Photos? LK23 General Maintenance and Repair 10 02-03-2010 09:27 AM
Roof Seams | Manus Bond 75-AM ? Mike in Florida General Maintenance and Repair 28 11-13-2007 01:37 AM
Roof to Sidewall sealant, annual maintenance Florida Guy General Maintenance and Repair 8 02-23-2006 07:28 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Winnebago Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:38 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×