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Old 05-19-2020, 10:42 AM   #1
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Urethane sealant (Manus bond) application

Need to reseal the roof to sidewall joint on out 2001 Adventurer. The picture is what I am dealing with. From right to left, fiberglass roof, very thin existing bead of caulk, gap (which I think should be filled), metal track that holds the awning, finally the awning itself.
Pretty certain nothing has ever been redone here, but sure seems like the original bead s/b bigger.
Sealant call out sheet calls for p/n 072889-10-000. The “10” is a different number for different years which is guess is a color code.
Any thoughts or input will be appreciated. Maybe even a picture of how it should look.
Thanks, Phil
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Old 05-19-2020, 11:01 AM   #2
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It doesn't look like your roof radius is painted, correct? The material to use differes (I beleive) when it is and isn't. I used the Manus bond on my painted radius/joint. I'm not sure I know what to use otherwise.
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Old 05-19-2020, 11:03 AM   #3
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I found this old thread...


https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...nt-103789.html
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Old 05-19-2020, 11:22 AM   #4
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Thanks, ThomB for the reply, a lot of good info. I’m using my phone now and will get on the computer where I can study it better.
The Winnebago part number I used (072889-10-000) is referred to as Manus bond or Manus urethane on the Lichtsinn RV website. A pretty slick deal, get on the website, put in a part number and a little other info and get a price quote quickly.
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Old 05-19-2020, 11:34 AM   #5
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BTW, in the picture I sent, as ThomB pointed out, the roof is not painted. Jus a coating of dirt over the original white gel coat.
Phil
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Old 05-19-2020, 12:07 PM   #6
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There's a tech on YouTube (AZEXPERT) that does a lot of videos on Winnebago roof resealing and he recommends, ProFlex Clear Urithane rather than Manus Bond.

I used Manus bond on my roof radius and it was kind of difficult to work with. It's not self-leveling and VERY sticky.

Here's a Video on the process:

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Old 05-19-2020, 10:58 PM   #7
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Great video. That’s how I re-caulked the rook line in my Sunstar in year three of owning it. Getting the caulking under the fiberglass was really important. Using the tape made the look good.
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Old 05-20-2020, 07:25 PM   #8
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I used Manus Bond 75 on my fiberglass roof seam. I did not find it difficult to deal with. The hard part was cleaning out the old material and make sure it was dry before i applied it. On a 36 foot DP I used about 3 tubes. Its held up well over the last 3 years.
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Old 05-24-2020, 10:12 PM   #9
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You do have to clean along with dry down inside the joint and the Manus Bond should not create a large bead since it goes inside the joint between the fiberglass and the aluminum channel, not just on top of the edge of the aluminum channel and fiberglass or else you will not get a good bond.

Note that Manus Bond has a relatively short shelf life of 9 months from date of manufacture so refuse anything that is even close to 9 months old. For the best results you only want Manus Bond that is within a few months from the date of manufacture which is stamped on the tubes.

The last time I bought any from LazyDays in Sefner Florida every tube they had in stock was well past 1 year old so basically out of warranty from Manus and unusable for a Winnebago Roof Seam.
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Old 05-25-2020, 07:55 AM   #10
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Roof edge seal

We did a thorough cleaning out the old caulking, etc. and put a 2" Eternabond strip around the whole thing. Looks a lot better and seals very well. Hoping it will be the last time for awhile.
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Old 05-25-2020, 09:43 AM   #11
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The keys to a good Eternabond application are:

1. Clean surface.

2. No voids, make sure the tape is firmly pressed down using a rubber roller or other tools. A wallpaper seam roller is good for tight spots.
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Old 05-25-2020, 10:14 AM   #12
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Fiberglass roof caulking

Just completed my 2012 Sunstar roof line. Years of watching roof tread, found the YouTube video posted by CREATIVEPART, decided to give it a try. Used his referenced (very sticky) adhesive available through Amazon. Qualify: my final product was not near as neat but very functional. First 6 ft at front found myself wondering why I was wasting the effort. Midway I discovered what all the posting was about-very little force required to separate roof membrane from rail tuck. More importantly, upon removing old caulk discovered water under the caulk causing plywood deterioration. I (as usual) went beyond: cleaning/removing old caulk, inserting 3/16-1/4 spacers in seam, applying caulk forcing it deep into seam with putty knife, allow to cure several days, remove spacers, caulk void: then move on to next 6-8 ft section. This quarantine period was salvation preventing expensive roof separation.
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Old 05-25-2020, 10:24 AM   #13
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I took this opportunity to better caulk the Front Cap radius as shown in the video. His video really helped me do a better job.

I had already cleaned out the caulking on the side pieces where I had a small leak and filled those with Manus 75 but I had not done a good job of doing the entire area. So, like in the video I put down painters tape first. Ah ha! that was key. Added the black Manus 75 liberally, sprayed it with Windex. Another Ah Ha! Smoothed it out with a gloved finger.

When I removed the tape about 10-mins later the job finally was done right and even looked good. So, I also did the non-leaking passenger side.

I did look at my side rails. The caulking is ageing but not cracked or peeling. I can't see doing that job without a scaffold. In fact, I can see doing that job at all. I might take it to Phoenix and let AZEXPERT do it.
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Old 05-29-2020, 12:30 AM   #14
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Eternabond

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckmor View Post
We did a thorough cleaning out the old caulking, etc. and put a 2" Eternabond strip around the whole thing. Looks a lot better and seals very well. Hoping it will be the last time for awhile.
I went with Eternabond after re-caulking that little seam for years.Very happy I did. Seals well and holds the roof down in its groove. Surface prep is the key. I used lacquer thinner then acetone. Eternabond is very sticky, once it touches something it is tough to get off. Once down roll it down hard and then it wont come off. It does require washing once in a while just like everything else. I'v had mine on for 3 years with no issues.
I worked from top leaning over the edge on my belly. Scaffolding would be easier if you have it.
Lots of posts on irv2.com
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