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Old 04-10-2010, 08:15 PM   #21
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Rite Temp Tstat

When my Coleman Mach tstat became unreliable, I followed Duners instructions and replaced with a Rite-Temp 6080 Digitial touch screen unit ( The RiteTemp Support Site - 6080 Technical Support Page ) from Home Depot. This is one of the best investments I have made in our Horizon 39qd.

If you search Duners posts you will find the wiring instructions that work flawlessly!

Note: the remote for the thermostat will not work when wired to 12volts.

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Old 04-11-2010, 01:43 PM   #22
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This is long, but hopefully adds value. In the past I traced the freeze control circuits thru my coleman-mach thermostat and basement air unit and discovered the following. The two gray wires form a series circuit that is opened/closed based on the basement air unit freeze control circuitry. The two gray wires located at P2-1 and P2-3 go a set of contacts in a relay in the basement unit. This relay is controlled by the freeze sensors and the associated freeze control circuitry on the basement air unit.

At the thermostat, the 12Volt DC comes into the thermostat via the red wire on P2-2. When the thermostat is in the "cool" position the 12VDC is then routed back down the basement unit via one of the gray wires. This gray wire goes to a normally open relay controlled by the freeze control sensors and circuitry as described above. When there is NO-Freeze, the relay is closed, and the 12VDC is then routed back to the thermostat via the second gray wire. This 12VDC (freeze controlled) is then routed by the thermostat via time delay relays in the thermostat to compressor one (P2-5 the yellow wire) and compressor two (P2-6 the orange wire) as dictated by the thermostat. I believe there is a one minute delay relay in seriese with C1 and an additional one minute delay relay in series with C2. I added LED's to the yellow and orange wires (C1 and C2) on my thermostat so I know when the thermo is calling for one stage, or both stages of cooling.

I believe you can maintain the freeze control circuitry by connecting the 12vDC (red wire) to one of the gray wires. The second gray wire will then return the 12vdc to the thermostat where it would be connected the "RC" terminal as explained in Bill Dunner's post. THe replacement thermostat then routes the "freeze controlled" 12VDC to the compressor controls (yellow and/or orange wires) as required.

I did not trace the circuitry for the heat pump, but I believe for heat pump operation this same freeze controlled 12VDC source would we routed via the serices freeze circuit (gray wires) to the white/blk wire on P2-8. No additional changes would be required.


The 12VDC on the P1-1 connector is for the gas furnance. The gas furnance supply voltage should not be routed thru the freeze control circuitry as the gas furnance pulls about 8 to 10 amps and most likely has huge voltage spikes on it when the power is removed. THis large current draw may damage the relay contacts in the freeze control relays. Furthermore, if the gas furnance were connect via the freeze control then the freeze control circuitry would disable the supply voltage for the gas furnance when it is really, really, cold out. Bottom line, the gas furnance is operated by 12VDC being applied to P1-3. The source is P1-1.

I don't know how the Ritetemp thermo routes the "RH" circuit, or where the "W2" circuit gets its power from. Perchance Bill can check this. The W2 circuit connected to P1-3 should get it's source from P1-1. To keep it simple I would use a separate thermo for the gas furnace and not worry about the second stage heat.

P.S. The basement unit has appropriate time delay relays to protect the compressors and to properly sequence the start operation of the unit so as to no cause huge current surges. i.e. Compressor two is delayed from compressor one, and the outdoor fan is paused for a few seconds while the compressors start.
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Old 04-11-2010, 02:44 PM   #23
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Rite-Temp

THANKS RoadKing,

I just downloaded the schmatics from Coleman for the Heat Pump/AC and the Coleman Thermostat. I will go through these and make the necessary adjustments to the wiring if needed.

Thanks again for your input-the more eyes on the subject the better!!

PS: the RiteTemp has the ability to "seperate" the HeatPump from the Gas Heater, allowing you to use 1 thermostat for 2 seperate units (not using "second stage heat"). By doing it this way you can use all the automatic/programmable features.

Travel Safe,
AirMarv
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:14 AM   #24
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I greatly appreciate your time on this. The freeze control wires now make more sense. However, would the fact that they were not used cause the heat pump to not provide heated air? When I had the new thermostat connected, I confirmed +12DC power on the Heat Pump wire (white with black tracer on W terminal) and also on both of the compressor wires (orange and white). However, my system just gave me very cold air.

As I see it, the only terminals with wires to the basement (not allowing for the gray wires) are RC, C, Y and W. I had power on all except C and only get cold air. When I reinstalled the ColemanMach thermostat, it gives me heated air. So, unless I am missing something else, they gray wires are the only variable. Is this possible?
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Old 04-12-2010, 06:52 PM   #25
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Check the wiring as I'm doing this from memory but I believe for the heat pump operation all that is required is 12VDC to the P2-8 connection. THere should not be any voltage applied to P2-5 or P2-6. On my Coleman-Mach I've attached LEDs to P2-5 and P2-6 to monitor the cooling requests and these LED do NOT illuminate when in the heat mode.

OK, I checked the wiring diagram and confirmed applying 12VDC to P2-8 pulls a relay causing the reversing valve to operate, pulls the indoor blower high relay, and pulls the C1 relay. 30 seconds later the C2 relay is pulled. The diagram also shows the outdoor freeze sensor is used during heat pump operation but this is internal to the basement unit and does not use the gray wires. Therefore I don't believe the Gray wires should affect this. You could confirm by disconnecting one gray wire while using the Coleman-Mach in heatpump mode. ,
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Old 04-13-2010, 12:30 AM   #26
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The grey wires from the basement control board feed the Coleman Mach thermostat so that it can invoke a "3 strikes" function. That is, in the heat pump mode, it cannot reach the set temp after three attempts, the Coleman Mach will disable the the heat function for 5 hrs (I think) to allow the unit to defrost and it will show "DIFF" on the display other than the temp. The 3-strikes functionality is lost when you use the RiteTemp or something other than the Coleman. I have had my unit ice up when I was running around 38-40 deg outside temp. I noticed something odd when the mh was not getting warm. Went outside and found about 3/4 of the coil all iced up. So I shut the blower off myself to let it defrost. The Mach 3 would of shut it down automatically for 5 hours. The freeze up protection is built into the basement control logic and will shut down the compressors regardless of what thermostat you use.

The gas furnace control logic current is is very small and there is no problems using the relay contacts in the RiteTemp unit.

I have a separate $25 digital setback thermostat for the gas furnace. When I'm paying for rv site and get "free" electricity, I don't want the gas furnace kicking on to assist the heat pump. So I disconnected the P1-3 White wire from RiteTemp W2 terminal. It's easy to use a 2nd thermostat, just connect the P1-1 Red/White wire and the P1-3 White wire to the contact closure on the gas thermostat (W and RH terminals).

Good Luck guys,
Bill
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Old 04-13-2010, 08:01 AM   #27
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Thank you Duner and also to Roadking. I will pull out the RiteTemp again and check its' operation. It looks clear now that when I was trying to get heat, my thermostat was applying power to both the heat pump (White with black wire) and also to both compressor wires (orange and yellow). According to Roadking it should only be putting power out on the heat pump terminal, or the white with black wire.
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:19 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by netcctvpro View Post
Thank you Duner and also to Roadking. I will pull out the RiteTemp again and check its' operation. It looks clear now that when I was trying to get heat, my thermostat was applying power to both the heat pump (White with black wire) and also to both compressor wires (orange and yellow). According to Roadking it should only be putting power out on the heat pump terminal, or the white with black wire.
Also, make sure you have the jumper options in your new thermostat connected correctly for this application. There should be a selection for A/C and Heat Pump, it needs to be in the Heat Pump mode. And there may be jumpers that need to be in place or removed for 2 stage heat pump mode.

Good luck,
Bill
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:36 AM   #29
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Many of us run networks in our coaches and what I would really like to do is install a system similar to one we placed in our sticks/bricks. We installed a Proliphix system and manage all our home HVAC requirements while on the road. Includes remote sensors outside and in the foundation araea. System will also send us a text message and/or email if temps exceed our set limits. I'm not smart enough to tackle for our coach as I know enough about HVAC systems to be dangerous!
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Old 04-13-2010, 06:44 PM   #30
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I finally got the RiteTemp Model 6030 functioning correctly. This took repeatedly referring to Duner postings and input from many others. It also took reading all of the manuals and using a meter on the thermostats to conclude what was actually happening. I came to the following configuration that should be helpful for everyone else.

First, I finally got the information that it takes +12DC power on each of the wires to activate each function. This power comes from the Red with White tracer wire (Red/Wt). This I connected to the RC terminal of the RiteTemp. The black is the fan wire. I connected it to the G terminal. The Yellow wire is to the first cooling compressor. This connected to Terminal Y. The Orange wire is for the second cooling compressor. This connects to terminal Y1. Note that Y1 activates about a minute after Y if the thermostat needs the extra cooling help of the second compressor. I connected one of the gray wires to the W terminal and the other I connected directly to the White with Black tracer wire. This wire goes to the heat pump. This allows the +12DC power to go from terminal W, through the freeze circuitry of the Heat Pump, and back to the White/Black that activates the heat pump. If the freeze circuitry activates, the fan will run but no heat will be produced. This should eliminate any possibility of damage due to the heat pump getting ice. The blue and Blue/White wires connect to terminal C. These are for 12VDC ground (or common). The Red wire is the +12V source for the gas heaater and connects to terminal RC. The White wire activates the gas heater and connects to terminal W2.

The RiteTemp 6030 has jumpers under the top cover. Put shorting jumper pins on jumpers 1,2 and 4. Remove the large jumper from 3A and 3B. Note that jumper 2 shorts terminals RC and RH together. Once the jumpers are in place press the Reset button and everything is ready to function.

I again want to thank everyone who has contributed to this. My Winnebago Ultimate Advantage motorhome has never been more comfortable. Now, if I can just get my new furniture ordered we will be all set.
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Old 04-13-2010, 06:51 PM   #31
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RiteTemp Thermostat

Mr Netcctvpro,

I am so glad you did something with the Gray wires-I have been going through so many drawings from Rite Temp, Winnebago, and Coleman my eyers were crossing!!

I also replaced the thermostat because of the yo-yo-ing temps! As you have experienced, the coach is soooo much more comfortable with stable temps.

Glad all went well for you and thanks to you, Duner, ChiefJohn and RoadKing for pulling together on this-team work always makes for more fun!!

Safe travels
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Old 04-14-2010, 06:12 PM   #32
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netcctvpro: Glad you got it working. It appears you connected the grey wires in series with the wht/blk, or "W" wire which will protect the unit when the heat pump is running.

Here's something more to think about. The Coleman-Mach also had the freeze circuitry in series with the 12VDC that is used to turn compressor one and compressor two on, i.e. the yellow and orange wire. I know this to be true as last summer my unit would shut down in cooling mode after about 5 hours of operation in high temps (95F and higher) when there was moderate humidity. After much trouble shooting I discovered it was the freeze circuit shutting the unit down. THis is how I happened to trace the various circuits thru the Coleman-Mach and the basement unit.

When this happened both compressors were running for the 5+ hours and the in-door (evaporator??) radiator was more than half frozen over. Once the unit shut down the the indoor fan could still be turned on and this would rapidly defrost the evaporator. I collected more than a gallon of water from the drain while it was shut down. Once the ice melted all was fine for another 5 or 6 hours, which was usually past the heat of the day and this cycle would repeat the next day.

Anyway, you may want to revisit how you connected the gray wires. My recommendation would be to put them in series with the wire you connected to "RC", which I believe should be the red wire. This would provide the freeze protection during cooling but it would not allow the in-door fan to operate in the freeze mode.
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Old 04-14-2010, 07:12 PM   #33
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I have been following this thread for some time and looking in to the wire setups for Thermostats.

I think the Gray Freeze wires to the heat pump solenoids is a good idle. the fans running will defrost the coils quicker and get back to normal operation sooner.

My add to this thread is add an external switch to control high and low Fan speed. using an SPDT(3 pole, on-on) switch will do the thick.

As to the coils icing up after 5 hours.
I found that my inside coil was icing up and would shut down by tripping the Freeze switch. What I found is that the inside coil was full of lint and dirt and blocking the air flow.(there was a path around the AC filter that needed some expansion foam to get the air to only flow thru the Air filter) The outside coil had some dirt on it but the air flow was not affected. I removed my unit (which is not that hard to do) and cleaned the inside coil (vacuuming and NU-Calgon 4171-75 Coil self rinse Cleaner). The AC unit is working better then new.

Coil cleaning should be part of normal maintenance.
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Old 04-15-2010, 05:03 PM   #34
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UncleSmirf: Thanks for the reco to clean the coils. My unit is 7+ years old and never been serviced. I need to pull it and lube the blower bearing and will clean the coil at that time. Will also check to ensure the filter is sealed properly.
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Old 09-21-2010, 07:02 AM   #35
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netcctvpro
I followed your wiring of the 6030.
Couple ??
What did you do with the purple wire?

Up until today it has seemed to work fine. Last night dropped down to 40 outside. Turned the heat on to 70 and it just keeps cycling and blowing cool air.
Should the gas heat come on?
Do I need to install one of the auxiliary thermostats I've seen mentioned?
If so, any recommendation for a Wally model?
I have an 04 Chieftain
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:46 AM   #36
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I had the same issue with needing the gas heat. I added a small manual thermostat to directly control the gas heater.
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Old 10-03-2010, 07:52 AM   #37
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I'm a bit confused as to the added thermostat.
I just hook this to the RH, W & C connections on the main thermostat?
How do I get the gas heat to come on? Do I turn the main thermostat to "off" and bring up the gas thermostat?
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Old 06-27-2012, 03:53 PM   #38
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RE: Dunners info about wiring for the Coleman-Mach wall thermostat, the web site below may be useful. Note that the site describes several different wiring diagrams for what appear to be identical wall thermostats. Thus, if may be prudent to determine precisely which model you have before relying on any particular schematic diagram if you are undertaking a replacement.

See http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/pdf_doc...hermostats.pdf

If you need other information about their products/systems, check the following site as a place to start your search:

Airxcel | RV Products
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Old 12-26-2013, 12:41 PM   #39
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Curious as to how this has worked for people over time. I did the rite temp conversion and after 2 months my touch screen went wonky. Now it appears to be dead. Guess I'm headin back to the Coleman
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Old 02-19-2021, 11:40 AM   #40
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Thermostat true air

I have a 38 T Itasca 2007. My thermostat has been driving me crazy. It will sometimes read 95 degrees when the room temperature is 78. The A/C will come on and stay on for hours once it has reached the set temperature.
I am constantly re setting the set temperature to get the room temperature to a comfortable setting. Basically there is no relationship between what the actual room temperature is and what the thermostat reads.
I finally found a reply that mentioned that the actual sensor for the room temperature is on the back of the thermostat housing. My thermostat is mounted on an outside wall of the coach to a metal control panel. When I removed the housing I found a 2" Diam. hole in the wall that the wires go thru. Now things are getting interesting. The temperature sensor is actually measuring the temperature inside the outside wall.
The cure...... Took some duct tape and sealed off most of the hole in the wall allowing just enough room to carefully feed the wires thru. Next, picked up a couple screws 1/4" longer than the two original ones that I removed. Next put two 1'/4" thick 3/8" nuts over the screws on the backside of the panel creating a spacer that held the thermostat away from the wall. It now works so much better. The temperature still reads slightly higher than the actual temperature but I don't get the wild swings in temperature reading every time the sun comes out and heats up the outside wall. I have set
a comfortable temperature in the coach and it has been coming on and off perfectly and maintaining the set temperature within One degree. Hope this works for other people. Total cost 48 cents.
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