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Old 11-10-2019, 10:29 PM   #1
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Slideouts

I have one slide out that does not go all the way in, its about 1/2 inch out, the only way it will come back in is when I drive and bounces around and it will pop back into place. any ideas why? and could this be an easy fix?

Thanks

2010 Winnebago Adventurer 35P
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Old 11-20-2019, 03:52 PM   #2
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What type of slide mechanism is this for your slide. Assuming its a Powergear or Digisync maybe?
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Old 11-20-2019, 10:46 PM   #3
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Pretty sure itís power gear
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Old 11-22-2019, 04:35 AM   #4
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I'm sorry I was not clearer with my question and did not catch the age of your rig. Lippert offers, and on more recent models WBGO uses, 2 different types of Lippert Power Gear systems for powering slides. One is a Power Gear Slim Rack design where the movement systems are vertical at the ends of each slide and the mechanism is hidden.

On more recent rigs when they use larger and longer slides they often use the Powergear Digisync System for the rig. The Digisync system powers long rams that are underneath the slide operating horizontally/perpendicular to the frame to power the slide. On 2010 models I'm not sure you have Lippert slides???

I have found that for horizontal ram systems, often there may be adjustments that can be made to retraction stops and other movement operations. But I can't say that for a 2010 model as I'm not sure that WBGO used the Lippert systems for 2010 models. I'd urge you to call the Winnebago Technical Assistance line and ask what type of slide system you have, who the manufacturer was, if they will email you the manufacturer's operating and troubleshooting manual. 800- 537-1885 . Its fair to ask them how one can reset or adjust the slide mechanism and reset the controllers.

I found both stop adjustment issues and broken parts on mine on the more recent failure of my large slide but I managed to make the adjustments and repairs. Other times there were major mechanism failures that were just too difficult for me to deal with, and the rig went to the shop. A word of caution,for other than synchronizing slide controllers, slide work and repair can be much more technically advanced and more difficult to access than may folks want to deal with. It took me a couple of years to develop a comfort level working on mine to making slide adjustments, and some of the aspects of working on them is just to much for me to deal with, mostly because access to the mechanisms is so difficult.

I have not been much help as I was thinking you had a more recent model, but please do call WBGO tech assistance and ask lots of questions, how to synchronize your slide, and to email you the documentation. Its a good start
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Old 11-22-2019, 06:23 AM   #5
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I've got Digi-sync slides in our 2010 Vista 32K and this past summer went to Lippert in Indiana for an issue with one not functioning properly. That one turned out to be a motor going bad so that was replaced and the tech was also able to adjust one that was not closing properly like you are mentioning. I think ours was due to weight over that corner.

There is a way on our system to put the slide into a programming mode where it will run each motor on the in direction only using both the in and out buttons. Not sure if that will fix your issue or not, but may be an option if you have the Digi-Sync system.
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Old 11-27-2019, 05:03 PM   #6
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Same problem with mine

I have the same year and model. We had issues with our full wall slider doing the same thing for years. Sometimes it would close ok and other times it would stay open in the rear an inch or so. Same thing...after a short distance we would hear a loud bang and it would go in, sometimes all the way and other times almost all the way. We had our local Camping World look at it many times. They would either say they fixed it or couldnít find anything wrong. But they always charge us! We finally stopped at Lazy Days in Tampa and they found the controller was faulty and replaced it. It is working ok so far but I will always cross my fingers whenever I close it! I also find that the coach must be up on the jacks and absolutely level when closing it.
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Old 11-27-2019, 05:28 PM   #7
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Kwikee (Lippert) designates the Digi Sync FLS as “faster/longer/stronger”. If you have the FLS System, I have quite a few documents on repair and replacement. Contact me if you may need them.

In repairing my slide mechanism on a 2008 Sightseer 29R, I did a lot of research. I found documents leading me to believe the actuating system was made by Actuant SVS as part no. 901000401 (per the PDF drawing they posted).

A key part of the system is the use of an ACME Nut (made of plastic) which is known to fail. Cheap part; a bit pricey to replace. The replacement ACME Nut is secured by two, slightly thicker clevis pins. The OE parts have a tendency to bind, then bend, then put too much pressure on the inside threads of the ACME Nut which then either strip out or the ACME Nut itself will crack and fail. The replacement ACME Nuts utilize a slightly larger clevis pin (5/16” X 2-1/4”) to retain the nut; they are a little stronger. Both the nut (Power Gear 1612554) and clevis pin (Power Gear 1213239) are available on Amazon.

Additionally, if the system does operate and you are not seeing an indication of Fault Codes, you can perform a ‘self-test’ to sync the motors on both the front and rear slide rams. Here’s a link to Winnebago’s description on how to sync the two motors: Be sure the coach is level, brake on, engine running. Then briefly extend (only a second or two), then retract immediately. Do this again and when the slide retracts, you’ll hear a sound (“clink”) that indicates the motors are in sync.

Finally a note to the wise. I failed to use slide locks on my forward slide for the first couple of years of having the motorhome, including an 8,000 mile trip over the Alcan Highway in Alaska. Our slide failed about 3,000 miles later on the east coast. This is when I learned about the ACME Nut. Without the locks in place, it’s amazing how much the slide will move while you go happily down the road…and every movement is pressure put on the ACME Nut if you don’t use the lock.

Good luck on resolving your problem.
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Old 11-27-2019, 05:54 PM   #8
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I followed the suggestions in the video posted here, and it worked perfectly on my 2015 Minnie Winnie. Another method is to slide out all the way, then in about 8" and out again, 3 or 4 times. I don't know that this will work on all models and all years, but it worked for me.
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Old 11-27-2019, 11:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cjones212 View Post
I have the same year and model. We had issues with our full wall slider doing the same thing for years....


I also find that the coach must be up on the jacks and absolutely level when closing it.

Yes in general you should always have the coach stabilized on the jacks and leveled before opening or closing the slides or they can bind up as the shift in weight twists the frame when supported by just the suspension and tires.

Here is what the Operators Manual for the 2010 Adventurer has to say on this topic:

"To Extend Slideout Room

Before Extending!
Level the coach and set the Parking Brake.
Release the travel lock or latch (if equipped) inside the coach. See information at beginning of this section (if equipped)."

"To Retract Slideout Room

Before Retracting!
Be sure the coach is level and the Parking Brake is set.
Check inside and outside the vehicle to make sure that there are no people who could be harmed or obstacles that could cause damage due to room retraction.


Note that the above is directly from the section on the rear slides however the requirement to have the coach leveled and the parking brake set when operating the slides is there in all sections.

Travel Locks should always be used regardless of whether the slides are gear/screw or hydraulic.

See the Operators Manual Section 10:
https://winnebagoind.com/resources/m...Adventurer.pdf
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Old 11-28-2019, 08:47 AM   #10
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I have a 2011 Journey 40U - and had the same issue. On a trip home, I had to go through all sorts of contortions to get it closed, like lowering the jack of the opposite side a bit to get it to close, them re-level and close the other side. Once I got home, I found that a welded on bolt that supported the slide on one side had snapped and caused the slide out to drop down about 1/2". I wound up having to weld a angle bracket on and install a new bolt. I figured I should look at the other side and the main hanger bolts were fine, but the a bolt on the end cap was broken and another bolt was loose. I replaced all 4 with larger bolts. So far no other issues. I had planned to take it in to the Forest City factory but there was a 3 to 4 month wait to get in; pretty much a show stopper. I talked with a couple local dealers in the MKE area and did not get a warm fuzzy that they knew what they were doing.

I am not sure what caused the bolts to break. the slides always were locked when moving, but I now make sure I look at them while on the road.

Good luck!
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Old 11-28-2019, 01:11 PM   #11
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FWIW, I have tried both ways to sync the slide motors multiple times and neither worked
for me. Leads me to believe there is something else wrong.
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