Sealants

nownzen · 03-01-2021, 04:00 PM

Hi There!

It's about time to do some sealing on the RV. Above windows, around lights etc. What sealant should I use? The call out sheet for my 2003 Winnebago Brave 34D only lists numbers. What products are those numbers?? Can I use generic or is it best to get from Winnebago?

Thanks!

Nancy

BobC · 03-01-2021, 04:29 PM

Your diagram doesn't show the sealant for the windows, but for pretty much everything else on the sides, it's Sealant C, 072889-20-000, which, after a bit of Googling, cross-references to Manus 75AM, most likely white. It's available from Amazon and other sources:

https://www.amazon.com/Manus-Product...4640860&sr=8-1

Sealant D, 072889-10-000 will also be Manus 75AM but a different color.

nownzen · 03-01-2021, 05:00 PM

Thank you!

BobC · 03-01-2021, 05:32 PM

The Manus 75AM is also specified for your roof edges, which is an important periodic maintenance item. There are lots of threads on this topic.

**macnut** · 03-01-2021, 10:20 PM

Sure wish they made smaller containers for that. I seem to only use a small amount each year and each time I need to open a new tube. Maybe I just need to learn how to keep it from drying out between uses...

**creativepart** · 03-02-2021, 08:10 AM

I know WBGO specifies Manus Bond 75 but it’s difficult to work with and so messy.

Correct me if I’m wrong but hasn’t WBGO changed to Nu Flex 301 or ProFlex, both silicone sealants, for just about all present and past motorhomes?

For the OP’s question, just copy those sealant part numbers (or any WBGO part no.) into Google and “most” of the time you’ll find some link to someone selling the product with a reference to the part number. It doesn’t always work but usually gets close.

BobC · 03-02-2021, 10:02 AM

This may help sort things out. This is about roofs, but the sealants are the same:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...-356601-2.html

**macnut** · 03-02-2021, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creativepart

I know WBGO specifies Manus Bond 75 but it’s difficult to work with and so messy.

Correct me if I’m wrong but hasn’t WBGO changed to Nu Flex 301 or ProFlex, both silicone sealants, for just about all present and past motorhomes?

For the OP’s question, just copy those sealant part numbers (or any WBGO part no.) into Google and “most” of the time you’ll find some link to someone selling the product with a reference to the part number. It doesn’t always work but usually gets close.

I just inspected and repaired the roof seam on my 2017 Adventurer. Lichtsinn sent me Manus Bond 75 clear. I hope they sent the right sealant as I don’t want it peeling later.

nownzen · 03-02-2021, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobC

This may help sort things out. This is about roofs, but the sealants are the same:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...-356601-2.html

That's a great video! Thanks! It's probably where mine is leaking. Seems like everyone has their favorite sealants!

jspringator · 03-07-2021, 04:33 PM

I use Eternabond tape for all seams on the roof. Prep with lacquer thinner. Do it once and forget it. For windows and anything that may later have to come out, I use 3M 4000 UV. To seal or repair something PERMANENTLY I use 3M 5200.

Lemonade · 03-08-2021, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macnut

Sure wish they made smaller containers for that. I seem to only use a small amount each year and each time I need to open a new tube. Maybe I just need to learn how to keep it from drying out between uses...

We use wire nuts on the tips. Is some sealant dries in there, it usually works to poke through the clog with some stiff wire. I hope this is helpful.

NormD · 03-08-2021, 04:41 PM

To extend the life of a product, store it in the refrigerator. I have a tube of 3M 5200 that seals fine after about five years. Cold storage will even slow down mixed epoxy paint for use on the second day.

I am going to try Lemonade's suggestion of wire nuts to seal the tube tips. Sounds like a better method than I have been using.

MadMaxWinny · 03-10-2021, 07:50 PM

I predominately use 3M products, but Sikaflex also makes a wide range of great sealants. The two most useful chemistries are marine silicone and polyurethane. If you KNOW you will have to take something apart (every year or so), silicone is ok. Once you use it, removing the residue and using another sealant is nearly impossible. For something you MIGHT have to take apart, 3M 4000/4200 is the all around best bet for the vast majority of needs. As mentioned above, 5200 is FOREVER. It cannot be disassembled without damage.

Lemonade · 03-10-2021, 11:12 PM

3M 5200 (according to 3M) isn't recommended for exterior use as it lacks UV resistance. It sounds like people have had very good experiences with it and I'm wondering how it's stood up over time when/if used externally. Thanks!

BobC · 03-11-2021, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lemonade

We use wire nuts on the tips. Is some sealant dries in there, it usually works to poke through the clog with some stiff wire. I hope this is helpful.

I've found that a suitably sized screw seals better that a wire nut and can't accidently be dislodged. The screw should be slightly larger in diameter than the opening in the tip to ensure a tight seal.

If a stiff wire doesn't clear the clog, try a Phillips screwdriver or use a drill with a bit that's longer than the tip. If everything fails, you can salvage the remaining sealant by cutting open the cardboard tube and apply the sealant with a putty knife.

MadMaxWinny · 03-11-2021, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lemonade

3M 5200 (according to 3M) isn't recommended for exterior use as it lacks UV resistance. It sounds like people have had very good experiences with it and I'm wondering how it's stood up over time when/if used externally. Thanks!

There are quite a number of factors involved. Most of my experience is in the marine industry (where I've published 2 tech articles on the subject). UV is definitely a concern, which is why they formulated 4000. However, on very close fitting, non-flexing applications (where the exposed caulk is negligible), it isn't really an issue.

Sealants are also spec'd on their amount of elasticity. 5200 has got zero stretch. 4200/4000 can stretch a few percent. Some of the Sikaflex products can go as high as 8-10%. This is critical for applications where the fit isn't so tight, and also for dissimilar materials which may have a vastly different thermal expansion coefficient (like metal/plastic), where they shrink and grow at different temperatures and rates.

One last thought to leave you with: ANY sealing job can be greatly improved with two preparation steps. The removal of ALL organic contamination (and old caulk) with a compatible solvent, and slightly roughing up the joining surfaces (creating "teeth" for the caulk to hold).

Philipclopez · 03-22-2021, 09:10 PM

Dicor Lap Sealant is quite versatile, seeing that I can use it on different crevices and gaps. I used it on my RV’s roof, windows, and other fissures that may need sealing.

**creativepart** · 03-22-2021, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Philipclopez

Dicor Lap Sealant is quite versatile, seeing that I can use it on different crevices and gaps. I used it on my RV’s roof, windows, and other fissures that may need sealing.

We have no idea what RV you have. Winnebago Towables with rubber and EDPM roofs are perfect for Dicor. Motorhomes with Filon Roofs require a totally different sealant and Dicor is completely wrong for any resealing project. If you've installed something new and there hasn't been any factory applied sealant to that specific item previously then Dicor is OK. Just be aware that motorhome roofs require silicone roof sealants and Dicor is not acceptable for resealing.