Rv won't start - Page 2

DEWEY · 12-31-2020, 05:01 AM

Hi Scott,

Not sure if you mentioned it, but did you change the solenoid? If the battery is good, and the starter is new, the next logical point of failure other than the previous posts regarding ground and battery connections would be the solenoid. You mentioned testing the starter and it was in fact bad. It's possible the contacts in the solenoid burned to the point of opening, if the starter shorted directly to ground when it failed.

Don G · 12-31-2020, 05:39 AM

If you have access to a volt meter this would tell you what is going on with the starting system. You would connect the black to NEG on the battery and red to POS on the battery while having someone turn the key to crank position you should see that the battery voltage is maintaining around 12v. 2> connect black to NEG on battery and red to cable on starter while having someone turn the key to crank position. You should see the same voltage that you observed at the battery. (you may need a long jumper wire to extend the wire on your meter if the battery is too far away) 3> Leave the black on battery NEG and now move the red test lead to the the side of the starter somewhere that is a good ground. If you have to, scrape the metal to clean the paint. Now have someone turn the key to the crank position. If you have a good ground you will see no voltage here while cranking. The idea is to test the voltage when you are trying to pass a lot of current. If you don't have the correct reading keep moving the test lead toward the battery until you find where the problem goes away. If you have good readings at the starter then you need another starter.

NeilV · 12-31-2020, 05:56 AM

What chassis are we talking about Ford or Chevy?

If the starter is clicking then the relay is likely working. What were the voltage readings at the battery and then at the starter at both the main lug and the solenoid trigger wire? When you brought the starter in to get the core charge applied how did it test out when the hooked it up for the free starter bench test available at most auto parts stores?

If its clicking and stuttering though that would still indicate a problem with the electrical supply and could even be a failed ground strap between the engine block and the chassis or the connection between the negative battery cable and the chassis.

bigb · 12-31-2020, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wyatt

It’s also always possible that the new starter is defective. I’d check all of the connections, as mentioned above, the solenoid and then maybe pull the starter out and bench test it...

It's very possible, especially with all the cheap import units every place sells now. Been there, 3 starters in a row. Took it to a local starter shop and they opened up the 3rd one and showed me what junk it was. Went back to OEM from factory and no problems since.
Another place to check, even though the cables may LOOK good, they can be corroded back inside the jacket and into the crimped connection where you can't see, mainly on the one heading down to the starter, been there too.

Rick 99037 · 12-31-2020, 09:25 AM

Old tech, quick and dirty starting point on the problem; and clearly he is well past this diagnostic point now,
But you hear a click. You turn on your lights. Are they bright? No. Low voltage, so battery needs charging, or is bad, or poor mechanical connection. Bright? now you hit the start key. Do they dim? or maybe even go out? No. Something in the starting circuit. Starter or solenoid are not connecting and creating a load. Yes? A poor connection, corroded connections, or a bad wire; that delivers enough current for the lights, but not enough for heavy starter draw, Or a shorted starter.
I'll throw in a couple more things that can show up, that I don't see applying here.
Your 12 volt battery is actually six 2 volt batteries in series together, with internal connections between cells. Some older batteries develop internal breaks, that will deliver power intermittently, subject to load and/or temperature. They'll even check out as okay at times.
Corroded cables will at times supply heavy draw demand for the starter, but not let the trickle of recharging back into the battery, so cleaning connections, and then charging can fix some vexing problems.
This gets most people heading in the right direction.

Usaswimdad · 12-31-2020, 09:30 AM

Need to do load test on the battery. I have purchased 3 bad batteries, in a row. Take a multi-meter to check your battery voltage. Have some one try starting the RV. See what the voltage drop is. Should not drop below 11V. If it does, could be a bad battery or alternator not chArging. If the RV does start, take a voltage meeting with the multi meter. Should read 14 + volts. If it dies not, then your alternator is bad.

winnieslave · 12-31-2020, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scotteller9

hello . My name is Scott Eller Replaced starter on 1997 winnebago adventure . Rv still won't crank. All it does is click. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Could be the solenoid or the ignition. I had the same problem several times. The first time it was dead battery, second time it was a starter, third time was a solenoid needed replacing Fourth time was ignition needed replacing. Fifth time it was just the key needed replacing. I had a new key made and it started right up.

DEWEY · 12-31-2020, 11:48 AM

A clicking solenoid does not indicate it is functioning correctly. It just indicates the coil is energizing. The armature contacts of the solenoid may not be "making" and completing the path to provide high current battery to the starter.

In the old days when things were much simpler, we'd take a screwdriver and short the two larger conductors/terminals of the solenoid together which would simulate the same and start the vehicle. A better and safer way to eliminate the solenoid is to get a cheap 12v test probe and clip it to ground. Most solenoids have 2 small leads and 2 larger cables. Probe the 2 larger cable connections. One should light the probe and the other will not. Keeping your probe on the terminal that does not light, have someone turn the key to the start position. You should hear the solenoid click, but If the the light does not come on, your solenoid is bad.

AndersG · 12-31-2020, 08:44 PM

As odd as it sounds - its true. I have MANY years of education specializing in telecom and computer science but when diagnosing vehicle systems with sufficient power - a multi meter can deceiving..

You HAVE to be careful when working in more sensitive circuits as the light may overload computer circuits.

I recently found myself chasing a ground gremlin that killed all the light bulbs on the rear of my RV!

I found that the wires inside of the insulation of the ground wire that connected the vehicle "hand-off" connector for rear vehicle lights had broken.

Visually - the cable looked fine but when I ran my fingers along the cable - i could feel a bump. When I connected the test lamp to ground and the tip of the light to the other end of the ground wire, both IT and the tail lights came on - confirming the break!

Bo Walker · 01-01-2021, 02:52 AM

Don G, check one sentence in your last post.

" Leave the black on battery NEG and now move the red test lead to the the side of the starter somewhere that is a good ground."
It seems that would give a big popping spark with a good battery.

Wyatt · 01-01-2021, 03:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bo Walker

Scotteller9 Try the boost button and see if if will pick up power from the two house batteries.

Please let us know what you find.

Love your signature “CR”. Handle. Most of us fall right into that category....

NeilV · 01-01-2021, 05:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Usaswimdad

Need to do load test on the battery. I have purchased 3 bad batteries, in a row. Take a multi-meter to check your battery voltage. Have some one try starting the RV. See what the voltage drop is. Should not drop below 11V. If it does, could be a bad battery or alternator not chArging. If the RV does start, take a voltage meeting with the multi meter. Should read 14 + volts. If it dies not, then your alternator is bad.

You may only see around 13.4 to 13.8 on a mid 90's gas chassis. The load test should be done at both ends of the circuit. You may see good voltage at the battery and below 11 at the starter during the load test if there is a bad positive connection or chassis ground either at the battery leads or the engines ground strap. You will see low or no voltage at the output between the solenoid and the starters field lug if the contactor in the solenoid on the side of the starter is in bad shape which should not be the situation on a new starter. One could also pull the starter and bench test it or bring it back to the parts store so they could bench test it under a load which is even better since it verifies more that just the starter being able to spin freely.

bigb · 01-01-2021, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bo Walker

Don G, check one sentence in your last post.

" Leave the black on battery NEG and now move the red test lead to the the side of the starter somewhere that is a good ground."
It seems that would give a big popping spark with a good battery.

He's describing how to check for an open ground in which case current will flow thru the test leads, there will be no short/spark because it is all ground. Regardless there wouldn't be a short/spark no matter which leads you use and no matter where you touch them as long as they are plugged into the meter, the meter provides the load. When the meter is set to voltage it does not even supply current to the test leads like it does for resistance, even though this wouldn't matter either. Don G is spot on with his test procedure.

Elkman · 01-01-2021, 01:30 PM

The starter switch provides power to the starter motor AND it provides power to the engine. A bad switch can feed power to the starter but fail to provide it to the motor. This is not at all unusual and starter switches have been the subject of many recalls.

NeilV · 01-01-2021, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elkman

The starter switch provides power to the starter motor AND it provides power to the engine. A bad switch can feed power to the starter but fail to provide it to the motor. This is not at all unusual and starter switches have been the subject of many recalls.

And the operation and voltage reading of the relays, solenoids, switches along with both ends of the battery cable and starter cables is very easy to check under load with a simple volt meter that you can get for cheap at Harbor Freight (sometime even for free with a coupon), Walmart, etc. Starters can be load tested on a test machine at no charge before purchasing a replacement at many auto parts stores like OReillies, Advance, etc.

No real need for guessing and just throwing parts at it.

Bo Walker · 01-02-2021, 04:00 AM

Thank you Bigb, for correcting me. Don G, I retract my reply to your post.

I completely miss-read and missed the message. I was on my first cup of coffee. Maybe, I should have waited for my brain to wake.
I have had similar problems with a Winnebago I once had. It sure can be frustrating.
Hopefully, the OP's problem is solved and he's on his way.