roofs

hullview · 07-29-2009, 06:02 AM

i own 2003 brave 32 V i would like to know the right way and the right products to use on the roof sealer and caulkings and such my roof seems to have some movement where it comes down into the gutter rail should i recaulk it.
hullview

Petro · 07-29-2009, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hullview

i own 2003 brave 32 V i would like to know the right way and the right products to use on the roof sealer and caulkings and such my roof seems to have some movement where it comes down into the gutter rail should i recaulk it.
hullview

Your question will get different answers. Many of us have applied Eternabond and are very happy with it. Once it is done properly you probably will never have to worry about the edges again. Do a search on this site for Eternabond and you should see lots of posts.

Don

Indy Itasca · 07-29-2009, 10:46 AM

Petro is right, you'll get a lot of opinions on this. At the last GNR I asked one of the Winnebago reps about using Etrnabond on the roof. His reply was that it would void the 10 year roof warranty and was not a product that they reccomend. He also said that it was my coach and I could do anything I wanted. He did say that each coach has a call out sheet that shows the reccomended products and where to apply them. One thing he did stress is that you can NOT aplly sealeant to sealeant. In other words you must remove the old, loose caulk, not just caulk over it.

Clay L · 07-31-2009, 07:41 AM

There are sealant call-out sheets on the Winnebago web site you can download. You can get the sealant from Lichtsinn Motors at http://www.lichtsinn.com
They have given me good service on things I have ordered in the past.

I just had my roof re-caulked in two places at the factory right after the GNR. I thought they woud have to redo the entire roof edge but since it's okay to just do the bad areas so I will do it myself next time.

John Hilley · 07-31-2009, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clay L

There are sealant call-out sheets on the Winnebago web site you can download. You can get the sealant from Lichtsinn Motors at http://www.lichtsinn.com
They have given me good service on things I have ordered in the past.

I just had my roof re-caulked in two places at the factory right after the GNR. I thought they woud have to redo the entire roof edge but since it's okay to just do the bad areas so I will do it myself next time.

What did they charge you? This is something that they hardly ever will give you a definitive answer on. I wish they would do a seminar on just this subject at GNR. They don't give a lot of help on how to do it, but are quick to blame the problems on the way it was done.

Clay L · 07-31-2009, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Hilley

What did they charge you? This is something that they hardly ever will give you a definitive answer on. I wish they would do a seminar on just this subject at GNR. They don't give a lot of help on how to do it, but are quick to blame the problems on the way it was done.

The fee was $150 labor (included checking the entire roof edge) plus $4 and change for the material. They repaired about 18 inches on the edge above the driver and about 12 inches on the rear passenger side edge. Their labor charge is now $100 per hour.

I had found the driver side problem but missed the one on the passenger side - probably because that was the last area I inspected and I was getting a little careless.

rgrstndgby · 07-31-2009, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clay L

The fee was $150 labor (included checking the entire roof edge) plus $4 and change for the material. They repaired about 18 inches on the edge above the driver and about 12 inches on the rear passenger side edge. Their labor charge is now $100 per hour.

I had found the driver side problem but missed the one on the passenger side - probably because that was the last area I inspected and I was getting a little careless.

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I have ben waiting for this subject to come up, as there seems to be little agreement as what to do. Inspecting my 2004 Advent prior to my summer on the road, I discovered a few areas that needed attention. ( first time).. I got 2 tubes of the proper material, (according to the call out sheet), from my dealer. BTW, he at first handed me a silicone product, I said, thats not it. He said, thats what we use. I stepped outside, called Winny tech, and told him what I was told, and he said, " sure, silicone is good ". I quouted Winnebagos own instructions, and he said, OK, that stuff is good too!!! Get the right stuff, not silicone
Back at the coach I gathered up a very sharp 2.5" drop point pocket knife,( I think a good box cutter would be fine) a wire "toothbrush, a regular toothbrush, a bottle of alcohol, the sealant, a GOOD caulking gun, one of those little caulking spreader tools, and a roll of paper towels. If you put all this stuff in a bucket, and attach a line to it, you can pull it up, and not have to negotiate the ladder carrying it. I also pulled an air hose up there with me. (Tip, tie that to something).. I started at the front, removing about 3 feet of sealant at a time, running the knife deep into the original sealant, and " leaning" the knife edge against one side of the aluminum railing, and pulling the blade back toward me. You must do both edges, and you will find that the old sealant will pull right out. After removing all I could, I brushed the joint with the steel brush, following that I washed the joint with the soft toothbrush and alcohol, finally blowing the whole joint dry.. Time to this point, less than an hour!!. Making sure all the old caulk was all gone,and using a small cut angle on the sealant tube, i re caulked both sides, making sure there were no voids.. Time for this, about 1/2 hour.. Total time, less than 1 1/2 hours, and cost, less than $20. The job looks good, and I expect it to last as long as the original, 6 years...Not a bad job, most "do it yourselfers" will be ok.. Don/t skimp on getting rid of all the old calk, and be easy placing the new, so not much clean up...rgr...

GG1 · 07-31-2009, 02:42 PM

Winnebago says check it every 6 months. I have contemplated using eternabond there are numerous posts along with photos of some real professional jobs the members of this site have done. But for my money I check it when I am in warm weather in Florida between Jan and April and caulk. The hardest part is getting on my knees on the roof its just time consuming. I use a very narrow screwdriver a toothbrush and alcohol. Press in along the edge where the seam is with the end of the toothbrush or screwdriver grip, if the roof flexes or seperates from the caulking scrape it out and re caulk. If you use eternabond once it makes contact you cannot remove it so if you get sloppy you have to live with it.