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08-28-2011, 07:03 PM
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#41
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: on a constant, around the country, trip!
Posts: 404
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Ok, assuming the eternabond tape is the fantastic product that all say it is, it looks like you will have all the room you want on the upper side for a great adhesion patch directly on the fiberglass surface as it curves up to the top of the roof.
But on the lower part, you are putting it into the gutter part of the drip rail, with what, 1/2 - 3/4" of uneven surface for the tape to adhere to? How flexible is this eternabond tape, to bend around that drip rail shape?
Again, just wondering are you really getting any sort of structural strength with the tape, or is it really just a water seal, and the drip rail itself is holding the fiberglass lip in place?
Actually, I can't see where the caulking can really give much structural strength to that joint if it is only a small bead at the top of the drip rail extrusion.
__________________
2010 Journey 39n - 2017 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk - this our 13th year living aboard, travelling and visiting the Pacific NW, summer 2023
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08-28-2011, 08:25 PM
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#42
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zippo
With all the problems I read on the RV forums about the Winnebago roof seams I guess maybe Winnebago doesn't know what sealant to use either or they sure would use something that lasts longer than 6 months.
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Maybe their sealants get specified by the same engineer that specs the anti-rust paint primer.
__________________
2008 Itasca Meridian 37H & 2015 Flagstaff T12RBST
2011 & 2012 Len & Pat's "One lap of America"
27K miles & 41 states in 13 months - Woo Woo
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Yellowstone Lake 6-1-2012
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08-28-2011, 08:46 PM
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#43
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Journey39n
Ok, assuming the eternabond tape is the fantastic product that all say it is, it looks like you will have all the room you want on the upper side for a great adhesion patch directly on the fiberglass surface as it curves up to the top of the roof.
But on the lower part, you are putting it into the gutter part of the drip rail, with what, 1/2 - 3/4" of uneven surface for the tape to adhere to? How flexible is this eternabond tape, to bend around that drip rail shape?
Again, just wondering are you really getting any sort of structural strength with the tape, or is it really just a water seal, and the drip rail itself is holding the fiberglass lip in place?
Actually, I can't see where the caulking can really give much structural strength to that joint if it is only a small bead at the top of the drip rail extrusion.
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Have you looked up enternabond yet?
Roof Leak Repair Products & Sealing Tape | EternaBond®
eternabond - YouTube
In a word: very
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08-29-2011, 02:04 AM
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#44
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: on a constant, around the country, trip!
Posts: 404
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Looks like pretty good stuff!
__________________
2010 Journey 39n - 2017 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk - this our 13th year living aboard, travelling and visiting the Pacific NW, summer 2023
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08-29-2011, 06:24 AM
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#45
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluepill
Maybe their sealants get specified by the same engineer that specs the anti-rust paint primer.
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I agree 100%, been there done that twice with the last two rust bucket Winnies.
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08-31-2011, 11:28 AM
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#46
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Islamorado Fl Keys
Posts: 46
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just did both sides with black eternabond, never need to caulk again. Now
on to the next project.
Phelpo
__________________
2004 WINNEBAGO VECTRA AD
2007 VUE
2008 MINI COOPER
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08-31-2011, 11:26 PM
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#47
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Antioch CA
Posts: 79
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As for myself, I wanted a good base before I did the Eternabond. Paranoid, I guess. Phase I of the job was removing all of the old caulk, cleaning the channels, inserting the screen spline, and recaulking. Phase II is Eternabond on the roof seams.[/QUOTE]
After reading this thread I checked my seams and found them cracked so I am doing exactly what you are doing, except I found that I needed to run two screen splines (one on top of the other) in the channel. The first one just sat below or just at the bottom edge of the fibre glass roofing material and really didn't touch the fibre glass enough to hold the fibre glass in the channel. A second spline made all the difference and I still have a good 1/2" + of caulking above those splines. This should hold the roof fibre glass in the channel even if the caulk cracks. Before I caulked the channel the moisture from the evening due ran in the channel and the splines did not effect the drainage at the weep holes. This gave me some assurance that if the caulk weakens the water will weep away.
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2003 Itasca Suncruiser 33V
8.1 GMC, Workhorse, Allison, Koni's
2004 Honda Element toad
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