Roof Repair or new roof

RD Eagle · 09-27-2019, 02:05 PM

I had a portion of the roof lift up and took to a body shop. The just do a repair estimate is 2500 and they recommended a whole roof replacement at about 10700. The problem as I see it is that the maintenance from the previous owner was not done correctly. I did have the roof inspected at the selling dealer and they said the caps needed caulking and I had that done by them. Here are some pictures, was wondering if the old sealant could be removed and redone on the parts that did not lift. All options and comments are welcome, please.

signet63 · 09-27-2019, 02:29 PM

Hello Ray,

Thank you for posting this. I just pulled my RV out of storage and now have it parked out at Lake Mead Nv so I can do some work on it. I just added a dicor vertical lap sealant to the drivers side of the motorhome. What happened to me was I saw that the whole left side of the fiberglass roof came untucked from the left seam. I simply tucked it back in and cleaned the old sealant off with mineral spirits and applied new sealant. I need to do this to the right side this weekend. This is my first time doing the roof maintenance. Unfortunately I suck with a caulking gun, and it looks like a 5 year old did it, but I think it will hold up. Lets see if I can do better on the right side. Two years ago I purchased Eternabond tape to cover these seams as I have read that this works very well. Unfortunately I still have not installed these, and I believe the tape is old and hard and will not work anymore.

Yes you can redo the dicor on the parts that did not lift. I want to here from others on what they have done to their roofs.

Thanks,

Bill

BobC · 09-27-2019, 02:29 PM

From your photos, I see no need for a new roof. I'd remove the old caulking, clean things up and neatly re-caulk with Winnebago's specified sealant, for which Manus 75 AM is a match. After doing so, for extra protection I'd add a layer of Eternabond tape which will minimize the risk of wind getting underneath the edge. You'll need to make sure the piece that's popped loose is properly inserted into the aluminum extrusion, sealed and taped.

There's absolutely no need to goop it on like seagull s*&%.

For what it's worth, I'd avoid going back to the shop that recommended replacement, IMHO they're trying to rip you off.

BobC · 09-27-2019, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by signet63

Hello Ray,

Thank you for posting this. I just pulled my RV out of storage and now have it parked out at Lake Mead Nv so I can do some work on it. I just added a dicor vertical lap sealant to the drivers side of the motorhome. What happened to me was I saw that the whole left side of the fiberglass roof came untucked from the left seam. I simply tucked it back in and cleaned the old sealant off with mineral spirits and applied new sealant. I need to do this to the right side this weekend. This is my first time doing the roof maintenance. Unfortunately I suck with a caulking gun, and it looks like a 5 year old did it, but I think it will hold up. Lets see if I can do better on the right side. Two years ago I purchased Eternabond tape to cover these seams as I have read that this works very well. Unfortunately I still have not installed these, and I believe the tape is old and hard and will not work anymore.

Yes you can redo the dicor on the parts that did not lift. I want to here from others on what they have done to their roofs.

Thanks,

Bill

I know that not everyone is in agreement with me but Dicor isn't my choice. Winnebago provides "sealant call out sheets" specifying what sealant to use for each application. You can usually find the appropriate sealant matching Winnebago's part # by Googling it or searching on Amazon. The call out sheets can be found here:

https://winnebagoind.com/diagram/Sealant.htm

and some helpful information here:

https://winnebagoind.com/resources/s...t%20Sheets.pdf

And more helpful stuff on a number of topics here:

https://winnebagoind.com/service

BobC · 09-27-2019, 08:42 PM

To elaborate a bit further on the Dicor issue, it's formulated for rubber roofs, not fiberglass roofs and, although it will work to seal screw holes and the like, it doesn't have the adhesive qualities necessary for the edges of the fiberglass roof. Winnebago doesn't use Dicor anywhere on its fiberglass roofed motorhomes, just on its rubber roofed towables.

RD Eagle · 09-28-2019, 11:22 AM

I was also thinking the whole roof did not need replacing. I just wanted to hear what others thought. Yes I will use Winnebago sealants from the call out sheet. Thank you for your input.

BobC · 09-28-2019, 12:36 PM

Just read up all the posts you can about the edges of the Winnebago roofs and Eternabond. Here's what I found using the Google search box at the top of the forum page:

https://www.google.com/search?q=roof...nnieowners.com

You'll need to sort through some, and often conflicting, opinions to sort out the mainstream advice. Some are anti-Eternabond but IMHO it's the way to go, especially with older coaches like ours and, especially yours since you've already experienced a problem. It does come in some colors that may be more palatable with your paint.

Good luck.

RD Eagle · 09-28-2019, 02:28 PM

Great link thank you will be looking into that. Wish I could do it myself but can't but have someone who can.

BobC · 09-28-2019, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RD Eagle

Great link thank you will be looking into that. Wish I could do it myself but can't but have someone who can.

I'm sidelined from doing stuff like this as well. Hopefully it's temporary, I'm recovering from rotator cuff surgery (RV and ladder related).

akeagle · 09-29-2019, 12:58 AM

[QUOTE=signet63;3847402]Hello Ray,

Thank you for posting this. I just pulled my RV out of storage and now have it parked out at Lake Mead Nv so I can do some work on it. I just added a dicor vertical lap sealant to the drivers side of the motorhome. What happened to me was I saw that the whole left side of the fiberglass roof came untucked from the left seam. I simply tucked it back in and cleaned the old sealant off with mineral spirits and applied new sealant. I need to do this to the right side this weekend. This is my first time doing the roof maintenance. Unfortunately I suck with a caulking gun, and it looks like a 5 year old did it, but I think it will hold up. Lets see if I can do better on the right side. Two years ago I purchased Eternabond tape to cover these seams as I have read that this works very well. Unfortunately I still have not installed these, and I believe the tape is old and hard and will not work anymore.

One thing you can try to make your caulking efforts easier and better looking: Use some blue painter's tape to outline where you need to caulk, plus an eighth to quarter inch. Doing that will allow you to apply the caulk liberally, if that is needed, and still make a fairly neat seal when the tape is removed.

KTM251ss · 09-29-2019, 08:41 AM

I recently recaulked all the radius with Manus Bond 75 clear. Then I got 6 inch black eternabond tape and calked the front cap and all 4 corner radius.

I also use NUCO 311 black self leveling sealant (Winnebago recommended) and re did the side awning seams as well as the edges of the eternabond tape. I cleaned everything with mineral spirits and then rubbing alcohol.

I also realized the Travl'er needed better sealing after a small wmount of water snuck through and bubbled the roof a few inches on one side. So I already had more Nuco White and put 3 tubes around that thing as wells as the rest of the black I had left, it won't cause me any more trouble now.

I am in the process of taking both side seams old sealant out and putting new Manus bond 75 in there too. i did a few patches where it looked bad a few weeks ago but decided that I should just redo the entire seam and then I am safe for 3-4 years rather than continuing to patch the bad spots.

That is a lot work so i need to set aside 2 days but cannot find a 2 day window with no rain, but I will! Here are a few pictures of what I have done so far. I also use an orbital polisher and coate the roof 2X a year with a nice UV protectant wax. This really helps the roof stay clean and avoids the oxidation. Good luck! I cannot imagine having to pay $100 + an hour for this work to be done at a dealer. i have probably 20 hours into it but I take my time and do it right!

KTM251ss · 09-29-2019, 08:43 AM

This is the sat mount redone.

Jim_HiTek · 09-29-2019, 09:24 AM

I'm a big fan of Eternabond as once it's correctly installed, you rarely have to revisit it.

HOWEVER, if you tend to drive on roadways or farmers access roads that cause racking, yes, Ebond tape will develop wrinkles that slowly over time allow dust to creep into the sticky part and slowly cause it to release. But periodic inspections, and avoiding racking the RV fix that issue.

Here's a couple articles at my blog that show where I installed the Ebond tape...Roof & Roof Items

RD Eagle · 09-29-2019, 01:23 PM

Thank you for the info. Great job and will be looking into ebond tape as that seems the way to go. Great Blog by the way enjoyed reading it.

BobC · 09-29-2019, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek

I'm a big fan of Eternabond as once it's correctly installed, you rarely have to revisit it.

HOWEVER, if you tend to drive on roadways or farmers access roads that cause racking, yes, Ebond tape will develop wrinkles that slowly over time allow dust to creep into the sticky part and slowly cause it to release. But periodic inspections, and avoiding racking the RV fix that issue.

Here's a couple articles at my blog that show where I installed the Ebond tape...Roof & Roof Items

Jim- I looked and looked for your roof repair link in order to post it with one of my responses on this thread but couldn't find it. It never dawned on me to look under "Chassis Repairs & Fixes", I was thinking it was a "House" repair. I guess I quit too soon. In any case, it's a great resource.

Jim_HiTek · 09-29-2019, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobC

Jim- I looked and looked for your roof repair link in order to post it with one of my responses on this thread but couldn't find it. It never dawned on me to look under "Chassis Repairs & Fixes", I was thinking it was a "House" repair. I guess I quit too soon. In any case, it's a great resource.

Yeah, I've got some stuff in odd categories and that was/is due to, 1st I sometimes made a mistake and put an article in the wrong place, and then 2nd because of the complexity of straightening things like that out on Word Press...especially when I don't have a home base with really fast land based internet connection. And 3rd as a full time RV'er I'm at the mercy of RV park's Wifi most of the time so I try not to mess with the blogs structure too much because bad things can happen.

Quote:

Thank you for the info. Great job and will be looking into ebond tape as that seems the way to go. Great Blog by the way enjoyed reading it.

Thank you, RD Eagle!

Diesel-Lover · 10-02-2019, 09:15 PM

For the Bago flapping roof issues, use Eternabond that stuff is ohsogood. No I have no financial interest in the company. I used it on my flapping roof and it stayed put for years, looked a lot better than the goopy liberal applications that may or may not seal fully.

Please do not walk a foot from the edge of your roof on the sides as its hollow there supported by very strong (sarcasm) multipiece Styrofoam. They should have a no step marking like they do on aircraft wings.

Eternabond comes in a tape format easy to apply and looks very clean and even along cap line etc.

NeilV · 10-02-2019, 11:16 PM

Be mindful that the correct Manus Adhesive only has a shelf life of 9 months from date of manufacture because it is a Urathane Adhesive and not a silicone or water based caulk. You also need to clean off any trace of silicone caulking that was ever put on there as silicone will prevent the Manus from bonding securely. The same thing with Eternabond, it will not bond over any silicone residue. As for EternaBond well the name is not quite accurate as its more like Half Decade to Decade Bond especially in Southern Climates where exposure to the sun will eventually cause the mylar backing to peal off the butyl tape underneath which will then start to dry, crack and fail. I've been using Eternabond and other competing roofers tapes for a very long time and while long lasting its not a permanent fix.

Dicor Lap Sealant is not a Structural Adhesive and not even close to being a good substitute for the Manus Adhesive Caulk.

As for the damaged area, it needs to be flipped back down and the crack in the fiberglass repaired just like you would on a fiberglass boat using mat and epoxy resin to give it strength followed by painting or gel coating the repair to give it some UV protection before re-sealing the roof edge with the Manus Adhesive.

BobC · 10-03-2019, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeilV

Dicor Lap Sealant is not a Structural Adhesive and not even close to being a good substitute for the Manus Adhesive Caulk.

Thanks for your comment, Neil. Too many people default to using Dicor for everything, whether or not it's well suited to the purpose.

KTM251ss · 10-04-2019, 05:00 AM

Dicor is not recommended for Filon roofing, NUCO 311 self leveling Silicone Sealant is, last and stays pliable for a very long time. I watch some of this guys videos and have learned a great deal.
https://www.youtube.com/user/azrvexpert