roof problem 2004 Itasca Suncruiser

[Alan Mayhew]

Hello I have a 2004 Itasca 33.5' Suncrusier. Yesterday I noticed that the roof cap, you know the one piece roof Itasca uses to prevent leaks, lifted up all along the passenger roof line. It came up about 6" from the front of the RV to the rear. Have no ideal why or how but it did. So I carefully pushed it back into the location it came out from and then used the self leveling sealer to seal it back into place. I don't know if that will be strong enough to keep it in place. Just wondering if anyone else ever had this problem and if so how did you fix it.

Thank you in advance
Alan

[Topsail]

This is not uncommon. Go to page 4 of this general maintenance and repair. Take a look at the post labeled "roof out of rail and bubbled up".

I'd add the link but don't know how. It's easy to find. Also, there are many more threads along this subject. People could be more specific if you had added a picture or two of the failure. Maybe some other folks will add some more links. I may come back with more if nobody chimes in.

[Topsail]

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...on-357246.html

Here's another link.

[rgvtexan]

Go buy a Lotto ticket. You dodged a big one.

This is a common problem with Winnie. Dicor is not the best adhesive for the job.

Take a look at these threads for some ideas.

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...on-357246.html
https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...of-355599.html

Topsail beat me!

[BobC]

I respectfully disagree with rgvtexan, Dicor and other self-leveling sealants don't have the adhesive qualities for this job. I used Manus Bond 75 AM.

The first thread cited by rgvtexan has some good recommendations as does the second.

Here's another helpful link that addresses the use of Eternabond tape:

Roof and Roof items… | Chaos Leaves Town

[rgvtexan]

Why do you disagree? I said it is not the best.
Suggested a site that uses Manus Bond

[BobC]

Originally Posted by rgvtexan

Why do you disagree? I said it is not the best.
Suggested a site that uses Manus Bond

Sorry, I misread your post.

[creativepart]

This should be helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPoGxxNEtnk

[Millspring]

Originally Posted by BobC

I respectfully disagree with rgvtexan, Dicor and other self-leveling sealants don't have the adhesive qualities for this job. I used Manus Bond 75 AM.

The first thread cited by rgvtexan has some good recommendations as does the second.

Here's another helpful link that addresses the use of Eternabond tape:

Roof and Roof items… | Chaos Leaves Town

Retread hid rgvtexan’s post! He said Dicor is NOT the best product.

[jerrybb]

On my '06 Suncruiser I put a strip of 4" Eternabond all the way across the top where the cap joins the roof, covering the seam. I'm not worried now about that seam or the wind getting under there and lifting it off. A friend in our WIT club lost his whole roof when that happened.

[Diesel-Lover]

Well, Been there done that.


Under that radius is or at the least used to be a rigid styrofoam 3 or 4 piece sandwich!


So if you roof started a flappin while you were driving you were littering the environment with chunks of styrofoam. They should have a do not step line clearly marked on the roof as that is what causes the roof to come loose at the seam bigly.


Eterna bond tape is the best solution and if you apply it to a clean surface it will stay there for eterna. The width also tends to strengthen the radius to a degree, plus letting the water flow off the roof.


Eternabond is the product name, ( yes as full disclosure of financial interests should be..shouldnt it.) I have no benefits accruing from their business game

[NeilV]

Originally Posted by Alan Mayhew

Hello I have a 2004 Itasca 33.5' Suncrusier. Yesterday I noticed that the roof cap, you know the one piece roof Itasca uses to prevent leaks, lifted up all along the passenger roof line. It came up about 6" from the front of the RV to the rear. Have no ideal why or how but it did. So I carefully pushed it back into the location it came out from and then used the self leveling sealer to seal it back into place. I don't know if that will be strong enough to keep it in place. Just wondering if anyone else ever had this problem and if so how did you fix it.

Thank you in advance
Alan

Alan - You hit upon why so many have problems with the roof edge in your post. Dicor is not the correct product nor is silicon caulking and using either product will eventually lead to a failure of that seam. You need to use a Urathane Adhesive Caulk such as the Manus Bond specified by Winnebago plus you need to clean out the joint of all old incompatible caulking and its residue in order to get a good bond. If there is any trace of Dicor, Silicone of any other sealant especially if its not the same type and grade of adhesive as the Manus Bond specified by Winnebago left behind inside the joint it will more likely fail again. Cleaning out all traces of silicone treated caulking and the silicone residue they leave behind will take a lot of work using rags and solvents.

Be aware that Manus Bond being a solvent based adhesive has a relatively short shelf life and is only usable for 9 months from the date of manufacture so be careful to check the dates and refuse delivery of any that's already more than a few months old since at 9 months it will not flow as smoothly and be as easy to work with as it will be when its less than 2 months from date of manufacture. Too many dealers have old stock that they got a bargain on because its already close to 9 months to more than 9 months past the date stamped on the tube. I feel that dealers that sell expired adhesive that is specified for preventing catastrophic roof edge damage should be held liable for doing this.


Note that in parts of the video posted on the correct way to repair the roof seam it showed old caulking left behind that still needed to be cleaned up from deep inside the roof edge joint. Hopefully the tech went back and finished preparing the seams for the new caulking that went down in-between the rail and the roof cap as that is where the strength of the bond is most critical and not just focused on the superficial beauty bead above the rail where it can be seen. Personally I use Marine Grade 316 Stainless Steel Screws for exterior applications in critical areas.

[71_340]

Originally Posted by Alan Mayhew

Hello I have a 2004 Itasca 33.5' Suncrusier. Yesterday I noticed that the roof cap, you know the one piece roof Itasca uses to prevent leaks, lifted up all along the passenger roof line. It came up about 6" from the front of the RV to the rear. Have no ideal why or how but it did. So I carefully pushed it back into the location it came out from and then used the self leveling sealer to seal it back into place. I don't know if that will be strong enough to keep it in place. Just wondering if anyone else ever had this problem and if so how did you fix it.

Thank you in advance
Alan

And now you have the arduous task of removing all the sealant you applied (plus the original adhesive) the whole length of the RV, clean all the residue and then use the proper adhesive listed in the call out sheet.

Honestly, if it was mine I would pay somebody to do it. Still cheaper then a new roof which you will need if the repair is done incorrectly.

[Fletcher0077]

Originally Posted by jerrybb

On my '06 Suncruiser I put a strip of 4" Eternabond all the way across the top where the cap joins the roof, covering the seam. I'm not worried now about that seam or the wind getting under there and lifting it off. A friend in our WIT club lost his whole roof when that happened.

Did the same with mine. Plus did 2 inch strip down the top edges hooking roof and channel together. No more caulking. Lots of posts on irv2