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Old 02-10-2020, 03:16 PM   #21
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Tommy,

Thanks for the additional information. I was debating between the 2 and 4 inch eternabond and now I see the advantage of 4".

Randy
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Old 02-10-2020, 03:54 PM   #22
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Additional Issue

I just realized that I have a second issue. As the roof edge separated from the rail the Styrofoam spacers fell out and blew away. I now need about 25 feet of that material. I assume Winnebago parts department? Additional info - ACH 120107-01-000 Roof Cove Foam
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Old 02-10-2020, 09:17 PM   #23
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Belt screws

This happened to me years ago when I got my 2000 Ultimate Advantage used. The roof popped out near the shower skylight. I lost several styrofoam batons. Are your compartments doors lining up properly? In my case the 50 or so belt screws that attach the wall to the compartment framework were all out and the wall was falling. I had to remove the compartment doors and hinge the fender arches up to reveal the belt screws. I had to rack my motorhome with the HWH levelers to get the wall back up on the ledge where it goes. That broke the windshield. The belt screws were #12. I replaced all of them, 51 I think with #14. They are all self drilling tech screws. I got my roof back in the channel and re caulked. I never replaced the lost batons. I didn't lose the whole side like you did. I have a dip in my roof behind the shower skylight that is not too bad. The screws are hex head and can be reached at the top of the compartments with the door up. They can be checked with an open end wrench. 5/16" or 3/8" I think.
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Old 02-11-2020, 03:15 PM   #24
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Found the Roof Cove Foam at Winnebago Parts. They come 4 foot lengths at $ 5.44 each. I ordered 10 pieces just in case. The total including shipping was 81.65. He said that they may arrive as early as Friday. Hefty shipping price but what are you going to do?
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Old 02-11-2020, 03:21 PM   #25
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This post has a lot of good information. It would be nice if you can provide a follow through of your repair with pictures and maybe a short video.
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Old 02-11-2020, 04:57 PM   #26
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What About Using Flex Seal Paint (Clear) on their roof?

The front leading corners of your roof, behind the front cap, are the most critical areas. This is where wind finds it's way under the roof skin and then it rips away front to back, which makes sense since your RV is always traveling forward. However, it's a crosswind that can cause the most damage for reasons I will not go into.

From my personal experience, the best and most permanent method of securing the roof skin to the J-channel is to use Eternabond Tape.

I just don't like using 2" tape when you only need 1".

And the second thing I don't like about the Eternabond tape is that is only come in white and black; and my RV roof "radius" color is green. (Although black did not look that bad after I applied it.)

On the subject of adhesive strength, the polyurethane sealants are the best, but they are the worst when it comes to UV-sun cracking. So these sealants should not be used on your roof.

100% silicon is supposedly great for UV applications, but I have found it can turn yellow over time, and silicon does NOT have enough adhesive strength to be used on your roof. Never mind Winnie says you need to inspect and or re-seal every 6-months; those lying dog pony soldiers!

And for decades the RV industry has gone through several types of "Hybrid" sealants, and from what I hear now... the Geocel products are the most recommended for gluing the roof radius to the J-channel, but nothing is as good as Eternabond tape for both adhesion and UV resistance, and you never have to deal with this type of roof maintenance again.

Geocel: https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-GC2810...98&s=hi&sr=1-8

What I do not know is this: Has anyone tried using Flex Seal Paint Clear on their roof?

...Seems easy enough. Just tape and shoot/paint! ...And I know the other Flex Seal products are suppose to be UV-resistant (proof?) so does this "liquid rubber in a can" have any adhesive strength or is just a sealant okay to use outdoors?

Flex Paint Clear: $26 for 2 cans on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Flex-Seal-Rub...68&s=hi&sr=1-6
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Old 02-11-2020, 05:26 PM   #27
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Eternabond comes in White, Black, Tan, and Grey. No green that I can find.
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Old 02-11-2020, 06:02 PM   #28
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Right... Eternabond has limited colors and 2" tape is "over-kill" and is more noticeable. Now if Eternabond come out with a 1" tape that would be perfect.

I can live with the black tape over my green roof-radius, but I would prefer a forest green color Eternabond tape. (Which does not exist.)

So I'm wonder if this would be a viable option:

Has anyone tried using Flex Seal Paint Clear over their current adhesive to add more UV protection? It should fill in any cracks that may exhist too! ...Sounds like a possibility. Just clean real good... don't remove your current adhesive... tape and paint... and the big question is: Will it last 5+ years??? ...Maybe 10 years???

...And if you do scrape your old sealant out of the J-channel, maybe then you can use a Geocell or a polyurethane sealant if you seal it with Flex Seal Paint top coat? I for one do NOT want clean and reglue my fiberglass roof every year!

Just don't use 100% Silicon... nothing sticks to it! ...not even new silicon! ...So cleaning out the old stuff is very important if you find it pealing up!
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Old 02-12-2020, 06:59 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
Now if Eternabond come out with a 1" tape that would be perfect.
Since Eternabond's adhesive side is covered with a peel-off strip, it's relatively easy to split 2" Eternabond into 1" strips with a metal straightedge and razor knife. I've done it several times.
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Old 02-13-2020, 04:51 PM   #30
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I had to do my driver's side last year; used the Winnebago recommended Manusbond75. I, too, lost the styrofoam when the roof lifted; the pieces aren't too expensive, but the shipping was nearly as much as the product. I think the total for mine was about $75-80, plus 2 tubes of Manusbond @ about $8 each. Took most of the day to clean and reseal/glue.

I'm not convinced that following up with Eternabond is the right way to go. The Eternabond prevents inspection of the joint, which can then fail and pull even the Eternabond loose; at least I have seen reports of that, although no personal experience with Eternabond, good or bad.
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Old 02-14-2020, 04:34 AM   #31
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The Styrofoam insert is practically worthless. And because your fiberglass has already been shapped over time you can do without (parts of it).

Eternabond works great, but just make sure you have a very, very clean surface first. Then you need a roller to apply enough pressure. This is what "bonds" the materials in the tape.

Do not cover cover the J-channel with eternabond. You need this "rain gutter" to move all the rain water that flows off your roof... to the ends where is will NOT wash-over and onto the slidout awnings.

Honestly, Eternabond 1" (cut a 2" in half) will work great. Just tape it inside your J-channel so water can still flow in the J-Channel.

I just don't like the black strip of Eternabond tape. So that's they I was wondering if I can spray Flex Seal Clear in the same way as using Eternabond tape?

IMO: If you store your coach outside in the sun, any glue you use on the roof radius to the J-Channel will crack in 2-4 years time. Winnebago put a new roof on my 2004 Horizon and I am seeing cracks now, and I store my RV in a Pole Barn!

Eternabond will last for 10+ years. Maybe longer. Who can say for sure? Which means... NO MORE ROOF RADIUS MAINTENANCE!!

My new roof does not yet have Eternabond. That's why I think I will try using Flex Seal Clear over my good roof sealant... just to give UV protection. I also know I can buy Flex Seal in Hunter Green so I may go that route. ...And I'm not expecting it to be too difficult of a job. ...Just tape and spray several coats. (Job complete!)

...It's just that no one has wrote about it on this forum or on IRV2.com. And no one has mentioned using Flex Glue for strong adhesion. (Also good for outdoors and UV conditions.)

Also, 4" Eternabond "white" will work great on top of your white roof, if you need to seal your front and rear caps, but just remember it will be extra work to remove. Use a large lanolium roller for leverage!
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Old 02-16-2020, 08:58 AM   #32
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Great discussion with good info. I went out yesterday and inspected my roof cove joint for the first time. Discovered that the seal at the rear corner on the passenger side, the sun side where I park, had failed. About a foot long section. The front area and the drivers side are still sealed. Unfortunately, the passenger side has a 19 foot long awning and a slide that is nearly as long with a slide topper making it nearly impossible to inspect the roof cove in that area. The good news is that the sun can not get to that section of the roof cove.

Anyway, I ordered a tube of Manus-Bond 75-am clear from amazon, you can truly get anything there, and will be repairing my roof cove this week.

Inspection of roof cove added to my maintenance list.
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