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Old 10-02-2011, 09:29 PM   #1
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new to us 03 Ultimate Freedom

Hello all,

We just bought an 03 Ultimate Freedom and I am trying to learn a lot of stuff...
The previous owners didn't take very good care of it and there are some things we need to address. Thank you all in advance for any insight and willingness to help:

First off we need to fix or put in a new basement AC unit. Somebody put a 25 amp fuse in the thermostat to make the fans run and it burned up the control board and melted the 3 start capacitors back at the AC panel. We are told that instead of replacing the board and melted capacitors to find out that we might have burned compressors and what not, we should just put a new AC unit in. Found the replacement for model 6536A871 at Coleman as the new 50 amp unit AC/Heat Pump and they want $2700+700 installation....Anybody has any suggestions on the repair versus replacement ?

The Hurricane Hydronic system works fine but we are getting close to winter here in Indiana and I have to get the coach winterized- what do I do with the Hydronic system ? Is there a way to test if the anifreeze as at the right concentration and will be OK over the winter or should it be dumped and recharged in the spring. There is nothing in the Hurricane book about winter storage.

I have to re-upholster the Rest-Easy Leather couch and the J-Lounge. They had pets that ruined the leather.
Now, the recline portion of both sides of the couch works OK but the heat and massage on the remotes is in-operable - when I press the power button, nothing comes on - are there fuses somewhere for these functions ? Does anybody know how I can take the Rest-Easy couch and J-lounge apart to get them to the upholstering shop ?

There is a gage on the left side of the driver panel, next to the mirrors control buttons - what does that gage do ? It sits at 0 all the time and has like a fan symbol on its face ....

Keyless entry does not work on the door - the lights flash, the basement compartments lock and unlock but I can not hear anything inside the door activating a solenoid to lock/unlock - what could be going on ?

I have 2 grey antenna wires in the cabinet above the driver , bottom compartment where the Winegard satellite control box sits. I have identified the satellite feed cable and got the DirecTV working with a D11 receiver but these 2 grey RG59 cables (thinner than RG6) do not seem to do anything. I thought they go the the distribution box on the other side of the cabinet and tested them sending signal but no such luck...they seem dead....

Is the door bell wireless ? I can not find a receiver ....anywhere.... where should I look ?

The coach has full body paint and the clear coat is peeling on the top (crest of the front cap) and both sides- pretty much the whole length of the roof line - nothing on the side walls or rear cap . I went up and inspected things closer and I don't like the way that fiberglass looks on the curved portion that meets the side walls - I see many surface cracks everywhere , not through yet to leak inside BUT certainly not looking good - what does the 10 yr roof skin warranty cover ? This is part of the roof.....Should the fiberglass have surface cracks in 8 years ? I am worried. I wanted to get the clear coat repaired but now when I see this fiberglass issue, I think that it has to be addressed first....maybe by Winnebago !!

Anybody know which Ford model the headlights came from ? Need to get clear new lenses and maybe upgrade to Xenons....

That is it for now.... I am sure I will come back with more questions after I look at things more. Thanks for all input !!

Marius
South Bend, IN
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Old 10-03-2011, 06:47 AM   #2
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Welcome to the forum; We have an Ultimate. Vary fine coach. To bad yours was missused. Take your time and get fermiluar with the coach and you will be happy; ; Are your headlights broken or just faded; If faded they can be rubbed out to look like new. I have a Passengers side one; It's like new. It's an extra; Life is good..
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Old 10-03-2011, 07:57 AM   #3
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You need to be somewhat of a slueth to assemble all of the documentation/information you will need and much of the information is freely available on the web. Make Google your friend.

Coach brochure (nice tidbits of systems information): http://www.winnebagoind.com/products...%20Freedom.pdf

Coach Operators manual: http://www.winnebagoind.com/resource.../03Freedom.pdf

Wiring Diagrams (USQ40KD): Table of Contents

Plumbing Diagrams (USQ40KD): http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...40kd_plumb.pdf

Coach Parts book: http://www.winnebagoind.com/service/...3/3usq40kd.pdf

For the Hurricane Hydronic system: Hydronic Heating Systems (System manuals, description, installation, maintenance, etc.) Not sure which system version you have but you should be able to find the information you need from there. Your system is shown on pdf page 147 of the Winnebago parts diagram.

Does the instrument cluster picture on pdf page 39 of the OPerators manual answer your gauge question?

You will have to contact Spartan if you need a Chassis Operators manual.

Providing access to a large amount of support information is one feature Winnebago offers above other coach mfgs even though sifting through it is a bit of a chore. Good Luck,

Dave
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:13 AM   #4
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Winnebago told me the headlight buckets are '98 Mercury Mystique but that didn't match mine. I am thinking of getting a polish kit to try on mine.

The peeling clearcoat on the roof cove and top of front cap is very common, and not just with Winnebago. Repainting would protect the fiberglass. Much more important than the paint is the sealant in the roof side seams just above the rain gutter. There are service tip sheets at winniebagoind.com that have pics and instructions on the seam and sealant.

The sofas are bolted to a frame that is bolted to the floor. We took our cloth one off the frame last winter and got it out the door to be recovered. I took the "limit strap" loose on the door frame to get it open wide enough. With the RestEasy, you might have to remove the co-pilot side seat first.

For the ac unit, I would talk to manfger RVP in Wichita KS and/or use their website to find a certified service facility. I have learned the hard way to NEVER let other service guys mess with it. There are plenty of certified places ...one of the best I found was a trailer dealer in Andover KS on the east side of Wichita. They just drove over to RVP to get the part needed and had us on the road in just a few hours. Normal labor cost just to pull the unit w/o fixing anything is $300. The Andover place had my unit out, opened up, and diagnosed faster than most places figure out where the screws are holding the access door shut!

The gauge & location sounds like the turbo boost gauge. My UA doesn't have one so I don't know much about them.

The keyless entry fobs do act up. Removong and re-seating the fob battery sometimes works for me. One of mine has failed completely, and the mfg'er is out of business. Separate buttons for the door and the basement storage doors, but both can be problematic. There is a breaker on the panel in the front compartment under the that I have had to reset a time or two.

The UF is a well built coach. With some attention, it should spruce up and serve you well for a long time.

Enjoy the adventure!
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:29 AM   #5
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Thank you all so far.

The headlights appear to be 95-97 Mystique not 98.

The mystery gauge is not on the dash diagram on page 39, wondering now if it was an air gauge for a toad brake system.....

Still no info on how to winterize the Hurricane system, we have the model 45 I believe - is it ok to leave alone for winter ( it can get -20F sometimes here) or do I need to do something about it ?

Door bell still a mystery...

The remote lock-unlock works perfect with the cargo doors but not with the entry door. Cleaned up the balls on the door jamb, still nothing- wondering if I now have to open the door and look at the actuator....

A/C system- the service people said to replace it (over the phone) - of course why not, only $3500 out of my pocket, still need to figure out if repair is a viable option....

The antenna wires upfront appear to be VCR in and out.

Anybody changed the monster TV upfront with a 32 Wide screen LCD modern TV ? What did you do, how did you mount it ? Fabricated any trim ? Any ideas or suggestions welcome.

Thank all for now, please feel free to add any information you might have.


MArius
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Old 10-03-2011, 12:58 PM   #6
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Here's my 2 cents on the AC unit. You will probably get a hundred different opinions. Basement AC is a VERY popular topic on this forum.

Try and get someone to estimate the cost to replace the fried board and melted start caps. This should include the cost to remove the basement unit. Also ask them to include a cleaning while they have the unit out.

This will be the "risk" you will be taking if you have them do this work and it turns out that you need a new compressor (or two!)

I have a 2002 Adventurer that had a freon leak on Comp #2. Cost about $500 to repair. We wern't sure if we should invest the money in the older unit or just go ahead a buy a new one. We went ahead with the repair and it has worked GREAT even in the 100 degree heat here in Florida! The point I am trying to make is that there may be a lot of years left in your unit.
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Old 10-03-2011, 02:53 PM   #7
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According to the Winnebago's Operators Manual, for those dash guages not in the that manual, you will need to look in the Spartan chassis manual.

I noticed in section 12 (Hydronic Heating system Maintenance) of the Hurrican II SCH25 manual (support link on the Hurrican site) you do have to concern yourself with antifreeze. While it refers you to section 3 to fill the system, it is actually section 8. In section 8 they indicate a 50/50 mix of antifreeze. While I suspect that would be a good rule of thumb, you really need the manuals for your system to be sure.

Dave
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Old 10-03-2011, 04:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
headlights appear to be 95-97 Mystique not 98.
That was my conclusion too, thought I never got my hands on 96-97 headlights to confirm that.

Quote:
Still no info on how to winterize the Hurricane system
We don't have the system so can't help on that.

Quote:
Door bell still a mystery...
The doorbell is a wireless system much like you can buy at Lowes, etc. We found (by sound) a receiver on the floor of the galley cabinets under the drawers below the cooktop. A couple of years later I realized I was looking at a receiver on the wall under the dining/computer table. I checked and found it had no batteries in it. The one under the cabinets was the "front" door with full tones, while the one directly across from it under the table was the "rear" door with simply ding/dong tone. DW had oftern complained she could not hear the doorbell when in the bedroom with the a/c running, so I put the "rear" door unit under a drawer beside the bed. Now she complains that it wakes her up ...sometimes you just can't win!! One thing about the door bell ...it sometimes goes off for no visible reason while we are driving, most often we are in town and passing traffic signals when it happens...

Quote:
The remote lock-unlock ... acuator
A few owners have had to replace a solenoid/acuator. That could be your problem, OR since one button activates the entry door and one button activates the basement compartment doors, it could be that button on the key fob. It occurs to me we need clarify ...does the power door lock work from the switch by the driver seat and/or the switch inside the entry door and NOT from the key fob? ...or does it not work from either the fob OR the switches inside the coach?

Quote:
Anybody changed the monster TV upfront with a 32 Wide screen LCD modern TV ? What did you do, how did you mount it ?
Several owners have done that, fabricating all kinds of mounts. I came across one just last week that I think I will use when I get around to doing the conversion. It is from Mor/ryde (yep, the fifth wheel hitch folks). It is made for RVs. It mounts on the floor of the cabinet and locks in place while traveling. When parked will telescope out, swing side to side, and angle up and down. Actually they have several different type mounts, but that was the one that caught my attention as something that would work on both my front and rear TVs.
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Old 10-03-2011, 07:38 PM   #9
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Took the door apart and found the actuator dead. Took it apart hoping that maybe the brushes are not making contact but the electric motor is fried... the actuator says Vachette K3 on it, Google does not turn up anything...can anybody that changed send me the info on one that wold work there ? 2 wire one but mounting and hook-up to the mechanism must fit....Really appreciate it !

Found the fuses blown on the Rest Easy couch, got the massage to work, no heat.....must be the elements.

Found the wireless chime under the cabinet in the kitchen ( thanks) , found the transmitter in the door upper handle but the transmitter is dead, wired to 12v, gets power but the green Led on the board that is supposed to light up when the button is pressed, does not light up- may beed a new transmitter....wonder where I can get one that fits in such a small place and work on 12 v....

I will call the Hurricane people to get a scoop on the winterizing and checking things out not to have surprises during storage.

I want to put 4 golf cart batteries ( much better amperage than the 3 group 27 in parallel) for the house but the tray is not big enough. Did anybody make a conversion there ? How did you do it ? New tray ? modified the current one ? How ?

Thanks to all again, keep your comments and suggestions coming !!

Great community here !!!!


Marius
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Old 10-03-2011, 07:47 PM   #10
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In my previous MH, a 2002 Ult Free. I did replace the three 12s for 4 six volts. I cut the tray in two right down the middle and had my brother weld a 4 inch strip of metal to each side of the tray. Worked out quite well.
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Old 10-04-2011, 06:11 PM   #11
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On the door acuator, I have the following notes from a discussion a couple of years ago ...I cannot vouch for the accuracy as I have not had to use it. If nothing else it may give you some names to google. BTW ...the best place I have found for parts is Lichtsinn Motors in Forest City IA ...I used then again just a week ago. They can normally ship what you need for less total that your local dealer can sell it to you. Call 800-343-6255 and ask for motor home parts. Be prepared to provide your coach s/n so they can be sure they are looking at the right part.
------------
The door lock actuator is a TESOR 2202. THis is a 2 wire 12 volt actuator.

The tesor site is: Taiwan 2-wire Car Door Lock Actuator. Chung Ho Manufacturer, Exporter
(http://tesorplus.manufacturer.globalsources.com/si/6008801350995/pdtl/Car-door/1012139504/2-wire-Car-Door-Lock-Actuator.htm)

TESOR is located in Taiwan and appears to be a wholesale firm only so I searched the web for "high power door lock actuators" and looked at the 2 wire 12volt versions.

On AMAZON.com I found one for $5.49 and the picture looked very similar, or identical to the TESOR and I purchased it. The received part looked identical to the original TESOR 2202 and works great. The AMAZON link is :Amazon.com: HIGH POWER DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR 2 WIRE: Automotive
(http://www.amazon.com/HIGH-POWER-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR/dp/B0002KR9PW)
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Old 10-04-2011, 07:11 PM   #12
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The door actuator I took out does not look anything like the ones in the links.
I found something similar to what mine looks like made by Dakota Digital- Model PDR-1 -here is the link- but I have to talk to them about the mounting holes and overall dimensions to make sure it fits. Summit racing carries them and they are not cheap...

Dakota Digital Power Door Lock Actuator PDR-1 | eBay

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Old 10-04-2011, 07:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magav View Post

The headlights appear to be 95-97 Mystique not 98.
That is correct. Junk yard is probably your best source.

The remote lock-unlock works perfect with the cargo doors but not with the entry door. Cleaned up the balls on the door jamb, still nothing- wondering if I now have to open the door and look at the actuator....
Mine are Tesor..AFChap already mentioned that brand to you.

A/C system- the service people said to replace it (over the phone) - of course why not, only $3500 out of my pocket, still need to figure out if repair is a viable option....
My best guess is that your A/C problems are all within the electronics panel on the unit. My course would be to remove the unit....pretty simple....and replace the capacitors using new hard start kits. Also replace the board and the compressor relays. I would guess you may spend about $400 if you do all the parts change-out your self. All the parts are generic except the board. You can run the unit out of the coach leaving the electric connected when you pull the unit. It's a gamble but I think you'll win.
MArius
Hope the above helps you. You're going to like the UF.
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Old 10-06-2011, 05:42 PM   #14
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I polished my headlights and they are like new
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Old 10-07-2011, 03:57 PM   #15
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Hi Magave -

Welcome to the "Ultimate" club - Great Coaches and well built!

However, as with all coaches, they have their Quirks!

The Front Cornering Lens is from a 1997 Ford Contour / Mercury Mystique

The Headlights are from a 1997 Ford Crown Victoria left and right!

(Both are actually relatively cheap to replace.)

Try these guys for the remote actuator Winnebago Parts - Parts for all Winnebago motorhome makes, models, and years, including Itasca, Rialta, Eurovan - Specializing in the Renault based Winnebago LeSharo, Phasar, and Centauri Motorhomes if it exists, they'll find it - reasonable prices! I cleaned the 2 brass ball bearing contacts on the frame and the door and it cured mine!

Had the same problem with my A/C unit - but was b/c of a faulty neutral when I had it plugged in at a campground (I now have a 'Surge Guard') and it blew my mother board on the compressor and the capacitors. Had it diagnosed and replaced at Lazydays in Seffner Florida for under $600 - not bad compared to $3000 - it has been working fine since then (about 2 years ago)

For a permanent solution to the roof seal, I used "Eternabond" tape to seal my roof - but I don't have a painted roof - mine is white so was not an issue. I'm going to paint the Front cap however to match in a few weeks and paint over the eternabond on the sides above the raingutter (others have done it successfully on this forum) so I could let you know how it works. Eternabond also has Black, Grey and Tan tapes available now in addition to the white - EternaBond RoofSeal

As far as the TV in front goes - the fella who owned the coach before me switched out the Monster for a flat screen and just modified the metal strapping that holds the TV in place and used a bunch of double sided velcro to keep it in place and finished it off top and bottom with matching wood trim. I have since had it modified further with some custom cabinetry work done by Classic Coachworks out of Lakeland, FL - they do really good work!! Now it sits flush with bottom and faces of the cabinets on either side and no longer protrudes into the cabin. Has saved a few headaches from rapping my head on the old TV casing!!

Gary
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