Need help with TriMark entry door lock disassembly

[RTegarini]

I've posted previously about the TriMark entry door locks on my motorhome. Both locks act up intermittently in that they will not unlock the door with a key. I'd like to change out the entire assembly but can't find any specific step-by-step help. Since the motorhome is in storage, once I start the replacement process, I'd have to finish or risk having a motorhome that I can't lock up.

Here are a few pictures of my door lock; I'm hoping someone can tell me the proper steps and sequence of disassembly, replacement, and then re-assembly to accomplish my goal. For example, I'm not even sure if the interior door handle needs to be removed to get started, or how to do it. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. -RT

[tderonne]

Just need to take the three screws out from the inside. They go through to the outside and clamp the whole thing together.

There is one adjustment, it's under the black plug on the side of the door. It's not a complex piece, here's an old thread with some pictures. And another with some information.

[RTegarini]

Originally Posted by tderonne

Just need to take the three screws out from the inside. They go through to the outside and clamp the whole thing together.

There is one adjustment, it's under the black plug on the side of the door. It's not a complex piece, here's an old thread with some pictures. And another with some information.

Well, looks like based on your info, I should give it a try. I'm going to call Winnebago first and verify the exact model of entry door lock and dead bolt I need. I'd like to get the complete unit, even if it means that the new keys no longer fit the storage compartments.

Thank you very much! -RT

[CJ7365]

There is a thread floating around here about the locks acting up, there is a plastic piece on the inside that breaks and can be replaced, a lot cheaper that the whole assembly

[kkriepke]

Originally Posted by RTegarini

Well, looks like based on your info, I should give it a try. I'm going to call Winnebago first and verify the exact model of entry door lock and dead bolt I need. I'd like to get the complete unit, even if it means that the new keys no longer fit the storage compartments.

Thank you very much! -RT

Other than being white, your lock is just like my 07 Vectra. I had to replace mine because one of the mechanical cams was slipping over the actuator and the door would not unlock. It took me 2 days because I had to have a locksmith actually saw off the lock stud to open the door. The lock mechanism replacement was not difficult but you do have to diddle with the electric unlocking actuator. PM me if you want my pix of the process.

[Clay L]

I was talking to a local locksmith about having him repair mine when he suggested that I try another key because the key often wears and intermittently will not unlock the lock. My key was the one almost always used so I tried my wife's key and sure enough it worked perfectly. Looking at the two keys it was easy to see how much wear there was. You may not be so lucky but you might want to try another key - if you haven't done so already.

[RTegarini]

Originally Posted by Clay L

I was talking to a local locksmith about having him repair mine when he suggested that I try another key because the key often wears and intermittently will not unlock the lock. My key was the one almost always used so I tried my wife's key and sure enough it worked perfectly. Looking at the two keys it was easy to see how much wear there was. You may not be so lucky but you might want to try another key - if you haven't done so already.

Thank you for your suggestion; anyone that is having the same issue as mine is susceptible to the door actually not unlocking from the inside, thereby being trapped, which has happened to me. I wish replacing the worn keys was the solution, far easier and cheaper! -RT

[imnprsd]

You probably don't need to replace any parts if you learn how to properly adjust your Trimark door lock. (See attached .pdf for instructions.)

Then read this thread for more information:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/tri...le-479375.html

And this thread...

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...re-330834.html

And regarding the Keyless Entry System (KES) picture you posted, that control box you found mounted to the back panel (accessed by opening your fuse box door) is made by SCS-Frigette and it's junk. Plus the company is out of business, but the frequency drift was so bad you really don't want to try to fix it by replacing the fob.

...But you can upgrade to a new KES that is very reliable and comes with 2 fobs for less than $25 on Amazon or Ebay.

You will also need a few relays and fuses so the total cost to get your KES working about is about $50; and you love having your fob operational again!

For more information on how to remove the wire harness from your old SCS control box and re-wire your auto locking system, you just need to go to this thread... and there you will find a wire conversion diagram I created that will make this upgrade easy!

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...re-330834.html

Note: The good news is that your front door and cargo door plungers are all in good shape, because chance are your SCS-Frigette system probably has not worked for over 10 years. So don't take your door apart if you don't have too!

As for calling Trimark... don't bother. They will give you bad information and their customer support is run by a few sour grapes. However, their technical support is nice and knowledgeable if you ever need to talk to them.

Trimark customer service will try to up-sell you on their wire harness conversion and new Trimark control box for ~$400 in parts only; and then you will pay $200- $250 in labor; or you can learn how to do it yourself for $50.

All you need to do is buy the Avital 300xl locking system on Amazon and pickup some extra relays and fuses. Then follow the detailed instructions I provide in the above threads to use your existing wire harness.

Note: I also elected to install a siren that Winnebago conveniently left out and now if I push the "panic" button on the fob the siren will go off. Note: This is not the same as the chirping sounds you are familiar with a car. (That's another horn, but you don't need this since you can hear the door plunger lock.)

The siren is also useful to scare away skunks that happen by your campsite, and it will also will give you peace of mind if you ever spend the night in a Wallmart parking lot and you think you hear something outside your coach and need to sound the alarm.

ANOTHER TIP: I found LED lights place under your coach are a good deterrent for mice and unwanted guests too! Just run a 40' strand of LED Rope Lights under your coach and zip tie as necessary... and then cut a hole in the back wall of your inverter bay... where you can then access the switch power outlet your engine uses for the block heater.

You can also use a mechanical, 24 hour timer that flashes the LED light every 30 minutes all night long for added effect if you want; and since the engine block heater switch is conveniently mounted inside the RV, you can easily switch the LED lights on-and-off when you want to scare off those unwanted critters too.

In summary: If you have a little handyman experience and the desire to get your KES working again; the Trimark door adjustments are almost sure to fix your intermittent door locking problems. And with some determination to learn about KES systems, because their manuals are so poorly written, you too can follow the wire conversion chart and in 4 hours you should be able to fix your KES yourself for $50... and $75 if you want to add a siren to make the panic button functional.

...And as always, I highly recommend you hide a spare set of keys outside your RV for those times when you lock yourself out by mistake.

[Padnah]

I had a similar situation recently. I found that if I backed off 1/16" after fully inserting the key, it worked fine.

[imnprsd]

Padnah: Messing with the key was the very first indication of a problem. However, it wasn't the key.

When this occurred it was a cold morning and I got locked outside. I ASSUMED it was a key lock problem; and if sprayed WD in the key hole; banged on the door; and then repeated the sequence while I was trying to figure out what to do about this situation?

Finally I got the door to open; for several weeks the door unlocked and locked fine.

Then I put my RV in storage and over the next few months I started getting very familiar with the Trimark 030-900 lock.

It's actually a very good lock, but you will never know what to do (how to adjust it) unless you read about it in a forum.

SEE LINKS I POSTED ABOVE ON THESE STEPS EVERYON NEEDS TO KNOW ABOUT!

Anyway, I am replying to suggest you follow these steps, to adjust your Trimark Lock, because it's not the key or the cam lock. What happened in your case, just like with my first experiences, is that I associated my efforts outside the door with the key, but that wasn't the problem.

The problem was that little tab got bent up over time and it was mostly working right, but not all the time, and when you find your handle flopping then you know this is the problem.

The solution was to bend the tab back in place, which I did 4 years ago and I have not had a problem since.

As for the "key trick" I think, and I'm not sure about this, but I think the cam-lock will not properly release if the lock is really out of adjustment.

So before you get locked out, or locked in, I hope you bend your tab in the lock back to a 90-degree angle; and that you adjust your lock soon.

Note: When the handle travels a lot to open the door, then this is another sign you need to adjust your lock, which is easy and something everyone can do with a 1/4" drive and deep socket set.