Need basement air conditioner help

wagonmaster2 · 08-06-2014, 03:04 PM

We're in a campground with outside temps in the 93-96 degrees and I just realized it's almost 80 here in the coach.
When I checked the Energy Management System I see I'm only drawing 15 amps, so I must just be running on one compressor.
Is it more than likely just the #1 compressor is all that's running, and will the #2 compressor start first if there's a problem with the #1 not starting?

I checked the breaker switch at the foot of the bed for the #2 compressor and nothing happened when I re-set it. Didn't want to mess with the #1 compressor breaker if it's the one running now.

The AC ran a lot during the night and it was 73 inside even by 10, I left the coach about 1 and returned about 3 which was when I noticed it was getting a little warmish inside.

Any suggestions on what else to check, and whether or not there's anything I can do in a campground?

This is in a 2004 Meridian with the basement air conditioner, which I just had it worked on at Forest City in May 2013.

kstrails · 08-06-2014, 03:22 PM

I assume you are connected to 30amp if you can read 15 amp on your EMS. On 50 amp you will not have a display of amps. If this is the case, it maybe the EMS has shut down one of the compressors on your AC. I have had problems in the past with the EMS. I would check to see if you have power to both compressors first, when the t-stat is 3 deg above set point. Sometimes you can dis-connect the power, wait a few sec and this may reset the EMS.

Jbmsr · 08-06-2014, 03:43 PM

Turn all appliances off including the hot water heater and see if the second compressor kicks on after the delay.
Jesse

Sammie · 08-06-2014, 03:47 PM

Have you tried running the air off of generator power and then check to see how many AMPs your pulling? As kstrails said, if your plugged into 30 AMP power, you may not be able to run both compressors because the EMS will shed power in order to keep you from popping breakers. Also on my last trip out, my Air Conditioner seemed like it was not cooling properly. Lucky for me I had a brand new thermostat that I had ordered a while ago and after replacing the old one with the new, everything went back to normal.

Good Luck,
Sammie

kstrails · 08-06-2014, 04:09 PM

Sammie has a good idea about running the generator first to see if this solves the problem. That would answer if the A/C OR compressor has a problem. If running the generator solves this, then either you are shedding load by the EMS or maybe the EMS is bad.
The EMS has led lights on the output however you have to remove the 120v electrical panel to see them.

wagonmaster2 · 08-06-2014, 04:16 PM

I was originally hooked up to 50A when I noticed the problem of not enough cooling. I shut everything down and changed the cord to the 30A so I could read the Energy Management to see whether or not I was drawing enough amps for both compressors to be working, and I wasn't. I had even changed the frig to LP with nothing else drawing power.

Sammie · 08-06-2014, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wagonmaster2

I was originally hooked up to 50A when I noticed the problem of not enough cooling. I shut everything down and changed the cord to the 30A so I could read the Energy Management to see whether or not I was drawing enough amps for both compressors to be working, and I wasn't. I had even changed the frig to LP with nothing else drawing power.

Just for kicks, try running the generator. With the generator running, you will be able to see how many Amps your pulling. I'm currently trying to help my buddy who can only run one air from shore power and I think we may have narrowed down his problem to a bad power cord adapter. He can run both air conditioners off his generator but only one on shore power.

Sammie

wagonmaster2 · 08-06-2014, 04:36 PM

I'll try the gen after supper, the wife will kill me if shut off the power now. I know everything is supposed to be automatic when changing from shore to gen power but I tripped a house fuse several years ago doing that so now I shut everything off then unhook shore power before starting the gen. I suppose it's possible my 50A surge protector could also be giving problems. I'll try connecting my 50A cord direct to the shore post.

wagonmaster2 · 08-06-2014, 06:54 PM

Having read that the slide switch for Cool/Off/Heat is a weak spot I wiggled it back/forth to start with the easy fixes first then I heard a click and could tell very shortly that the air coming out the vent was definitely cooler. In a couple hours the inside temp has dropped from 82 down to 75. Before when I put a thermomater in the ceiling vent it would only come down to 70, but now it reads 50.
Guess I'd better get a new thermostat on order.

kstrails · 08-06-2014, 07:46 PM

Glad you found the problem. It is strange that only one compressor would operate. You would think that when the t-stat makes contact that only one circuit signal is sent to the A/C control board. Maybe it was just a weak signal.
Hope that is the fix.

Sammie · 08-06-2014, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wagonmaster2

Having read that the slide switch for Cool/Off/Heat is a weak spot I wiggled it back/forth to start with the easy fixes first then I heard a click and could tell very shortly that the air coming out the vent was definitely cooler. In a couple hours the inside temp has dropped from 82 down to 75. Before when I put a thermomater in the ceiling vent it would only come down to 70, but now it reads 50.
Guess I'd better get a new thermostat on order.

Glad you were able to find an easy fix. Call Lichtsinn Motors 1-800-343-6255 and ask for Lonnie in the Winnebago Parts Dept. Your year model coach takes a newer thermostat along with an adapter cord to replace your old one. Don't worry cause it will fit in the same place and looks exactly the same as the old one. Be sure to have your Winnebago Coach serial number when you make the call.

Lichtsinn Motors - Iowa RV Parts - Iowa RV Accessories - Located in Forest City, Iowa

Sammie

wagonmaster2 · 08-06-2014, 09:31 PM

I found a replacement thermostat at Amazon for $143 and at Makarias RV for $105 (it comes with instructions for changing from a 3 pin plug to a 4 pin plug. Just to make sure it's the right one I need to remove my old one and read the model number off the back of the thermostat. but I don't want to fiddle with it any more until I get home. Sure don't want to be without AC for the rest of my week's stay in this temperature.

nsdienes · 08-07-2014, 07:40 AM

Wagonmaster2

A new thermo may not help. From your description, it looks a if the 2 degree differential in your thermo is intermittent or not working. This 2 degree is the kickoff for the second compressor. If your new thermo does not have that feature, your second compressor will not turn on. Since you may have seen that the second compressor turned on after shaking it, check the wires coming out of the thermo for a loose connection. Can talk more if you call me at 719-487-7392.

Nick Dienes

pyoots · 08-08-2014, 10:07 AM

Hello fellow Basement Air Owners,

Yesterday, our local RV tech replaced my basement air with a new one from Coleman. Compressor had gave up the ghost. Super job. Took about 2 hours to pull one and install the new one.

I had purchased the MH in 2010 with 14K miles and had changed a/c filters religiously. And when I washed the MH I made sure to rinse down the outside coils.

HOWEVER! Upon inspection of the old unit, I discovered the internal coils were packed with dust and debris despite the changing of a/c filters. The RV tech said that this contributed to the compressor failure. That I should have lifted the bed, removed the filter, and rinsed the internal condensing coils with a water hose. The water would have drained out the bottom of the pan.

Most RV chronic expenses are self inflicted due to IGNORANCE, OR BEING IN A HURRY. Please learn by my mistake and rinse those coils at least every quarter to keep the a/c running effeciently as possible. DO NOT USE COIL CLEANER AS IT WILL CAUSE THE PAN TO CORRODE!

Most of you basement a/c experts out there probably knew this already, but I'm betting that a few will appreciate the heads up.

Your humble RV driver,

Phil

wagonmaster2 · 08-08-2014, 03:17 PM

Thanks for that offer Nick. I'm currently in a CG for the wife to visit her mother in a nursing home for a week so as soon as I get home and not having to rely on the coach air conditioner I'll pull the thermostat off the wall and see if any of the wires appear to be loose.
Everything is working fine right now so I'm not going to even think about touching anything on the wall in case that causes problems again.

1ciderdog · 08-08-2014, 06:09 PM

I have been working on my basement air for the last couple of days. I pulled it, cleaned it up, put in a new fan bearing. One thing you can do without having to turn off the systems is to pull the cover over the circut board. On mine that cover is about 6 inches high on the side near the top of the unit and easy to see when the compartment door is up. This cover is held on by two phillips screws at the lower edge of the cover (there is a third screw in the bottom middle that looks like it holds the cover but it doesn't). It would be easy to see if incoming wires are loose or disconnected. On mine a green light flashes when power is there and burns steady when the inside air fan is running. There are two red lights next to each other. When only the number one compressor is running the forward red light is on. When both compressors are running the rear light is. These red lights are about in the center of the board and about one half inch apart. I don't know if this will help determine the source of you problem but might help narrow it down (maybe)

Duner · 08-10-2014, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kstrails

Glad you found the problem. It is strange that only one compressor would operate. You would think that when the t-stat makes contact that only one circuit signal is sent to the A/C control board. Maybe it was just a weak signal.
Hope that is the fix.

The problem is the Coleman Mach has a design weakness. They gang two slide switches together with a little plastic handle. The two switches get torqued a little with each use and after time both switches loosen up. Then it puts the control board in to invalid states.

For short term fix you can tighten up the two slide switches with a long nose pliers and then it'll work ok for another year or two or more. But it will fail again. Not sure if the newer design fixed this, but for many,many yrs it was the same old problem.

jhanan · 08-10-2014, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wagonmaster2

Having read that the slide switch for Cool/Off/Heat is a weak spot I wiggled it back/forth to start with the easy fixes first then I heard a click and could tell very shortly that the air coming out the vent was definitely cooler. In a couple hours the inside temp has dropped from 82 down to 75. Before when I put a thermomater in the ceiling vent it would only come down to 70, but now it reads 50.
Guess I'd better get a new thermostat on order.

What amps where you pulling with the fix (before and after)? With the 2nd compressor on, you should be getting into the low to mid 20's on amps if everything is off. I noticed mine pulls about 25 aps with the AC on both compressors and the Frig and the Frig can draw 3 to 4 amps when running.

BobnMelba · 08-14-2014, 07:13 PM

On my control board the red lights are vertical instead of horizontal. Is there any other way to identify which one should be on with both compressors running?

Bob

alecat460 · 08-19-2014, 02:48 PM

I have two questions, first I am connected to 50 amp service, the display
shows 30 amps, also, the ac only runs on one compressor. I installed the
super boost capacitor with no help.
The display has always showed 50 amp service. I shut all systems off except
the fridge and was gone for a week and when I returned the problem showed
up when I turned on the ac, any information on trouble shooting this problem
would be appreciated. The coach is a 2002 Journey DL with Coleman basement
AC.