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01-13-2013, 03:53 PM
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#1
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 129
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motor grill loose
One side of the motor/radiator grill is comming loose, this is on a 2011 meridian 40U , the grill is heavy metal and the sides are fiberglass. the epoxy has come un glued. the unit went out of warenty last sept. What does one use to bond it back?
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01-13-2013, 05:39 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NH
Posts: 29
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One thing you can use and it is real strong JB Weld. Sold in hardware stores and some automotive stores. There are several types of JB Weld available ask for help and they should direct you to the right one. I have used the reg. quick dry JB and it worked for years on a rusted oil tank in my dump yard truck and is still holding. They say it's the worlds strongest epoxy. Good luck hope this helps you out.
__________________
Bruce & Nancy
FMCA F280542
2004 Bounder 35E
US Navy Vet.
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01-18-2013, 09:56 AM
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#3
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 354
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Tom, sadly the failed adhesive has been a problem with my coach since 2004. I am amazed how in 2011 the folks at Winnebago still can't figure a solution. Yes, mine was covered under warranty only to fail again a year later. The best result is to use small stainless bolts and secure the frame in-place, I secured mine from the sides and you can't see the small bolt heads. The problem is your rear engine compartment hatch door expoy will also fail and fall out, I secured that hatch the same way. I also recommend using Mighty Putty or fiberglass and apply over every light bracket that has the Winnebago epoxy as they may also fall off. Make it a few day project and fix it yourself because the factory prep is poor and replacement OEM epoxy will probably still fail.
Hopefully your paint job will last more than 5 years, but that is another story.
Check this thread.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/more...tml#post483788
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01-18-2013, 11:49 AM
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#4
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 111
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I used 3M 5200 adhesive to fix my front and rear grills three years ago. Holding like a champ 10,000 miles later.
I removed the grills from the rig, marked the metal frame location on the Fiberglas and cleaned Fiberglas and frame real well. I then applied 5200 liberally and clamped overnight. Better than new.
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01-21-2013, 11:51 PM
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#5
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Clarita, CA.
Posts: 1,222
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It seems the bottom line is that almost any glue will work EXCEPT that which Winnebago uses.
They should be embarrassed, but it seems they could care less.
__________________
_______________________________
Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
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01-22-2013, 06:59 AM
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#6
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Fairfield, CA
Posts: 261
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I have used JB weld successfully on the same type of bonds, i.e., fiberglass to metal. However is is not a "quick setting" expoxy, so it will have to be clamped till it sets.
__________________
Barry & Sue Miller("extended" RVer's, 6 mos + per/year) combined trips.
04 Journey 39K, C-7, 330 hp, towing:19 GMC Canyon 4WD or 2013 Ford Edge AWD, Aero 5050XL, ReadyBrake.
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01-22-2013, 08:43 AM
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#7
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 2,169
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The slower curing JB Weld is best. If you prep the areas well and use the 12 - 24 hour cure JB Weld, that should hold it.
__________________
'07 Country Coach Allure 470 Siskiyou Summit #31578, Cummins ISL 425; 2014 Ford F150 toad; Air Force One Toad Brake.
Glen Allen, VA; Smith Mountain Lake, VA.
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01-22-2013, 08:49 AM
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#8
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 129
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Thanks for the replies, I plan to remove the entire hood so ican clamp on a table.I am going to use marinetex epoxy If I can find a way to through bolt aesthetically I will also do that if not I will fiberglass over it
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01-23-2013, 02:05 AM
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NH
Posts: 29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doorguy
I have used JB weld successfully on the same type of bonds, i.e., fiberglass to metal. However is is not a "quick setting" expoxy, so it will have to be clamped till it sets.
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Barry, JB Weld does have a quick setting now. Thought you'd like to know.
__________________
Bruce & Nancy
FMCA F280542
2004 Bounder 35E
US Navy Vet.
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06-02-2015, 09:02 AM
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#10
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fla tom
One side of the motor/radiator grill is comming loose, this is on a 2011 meridian 40U , the grill is heavy metal and the sides are fiberglass. the epoxy has come un glued. the unit went out of warenty last sept. What does one use to bond it back?
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Having the grill problem on my '07 Meridian. After reviewing all of the posts & replies I believe I'll go with the small stainless screws installed from the side solution. It appears to be the most permanent.
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06-05-2015, 06:31 AM
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#11
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fla tom
One side of the motor/radiator grill is comming loose, this is on a 2011 meridian 40U , the grill is heavy metal and the sides are fiberglass. the epoxy has come un glued. the unit went out of warenty last sept. What does one use to bond it back?
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Resolved the issue on my '07 Meridian with 5 #8-32 1 1/2" stainless screws, nuts and washers after reading about all the long running adhesive issues with grills and front hood covers on many years of Journey and Meridian coaches I decided to go with the stainless steel solution. Installed 4 through the sides, and one on the front. Solves the problem and only creates an almost unnoticeable wart on the bottom of the grille.
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