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03-28-2021, 02:28 PM
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#1
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Central Valley, California
Posts: 218
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Lug Nut Removal Using Torque Multiplier Off Then Back On
So I ordered a Torque Multiplier 1:64 from Amazon. I have received it and watched all kinds of "How To" videos on You Tube and I learned how it works and how to use it. But I see nothing on how to put the Lug Nuts back on and obtain the 475lbs Torque? With out snapping the studs.... Ideas? Suggestions? and or HELP............
Thanks LeeB
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2004 Winnebago Adventurer 33V Workhorse
I need a new avatar picture
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03-28-2021, 03:10 PM
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#2
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 887
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What kind of vehicle wheels are you trying to tighten with 475 ft lbs of torque? Most lug nuts, such as my E350 chassis are in the mid 100s. I have never seen lug nuts exceeding 200 ft lbs.
So get a torque wrench. Torque multipliers are meant for loosening nuts, not tightening them to a torque spec.
But to tighten my E350 chassis lug nuts which spec at 140 ft lbs I just put most of my weight on the end of a 1' long breaker bar. Close enough.
David
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03-28-2021, 04:38 PM
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#3
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Central Valley, California
Posts: 218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidM
What kind of vehicle wheels are you trying to tighten with 475 ft lbs of torque? Most lug nuts, such as my E350 chassis are in the mid 100s. I have never seen lug nuts exceeding 200 ft lbs.
So get a torque wrench. Torque multipliers are meant for loosening nuts, not tightening them to a torque spec.
But to tighten my E350 chassis lug nuts which spec at 140 ft lbs I just put most of my weight on the end of a 1' long breaker bar. Close enough.
David
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I have a Workhorse W-20 and according to a few on here the Torque is between 450 and 500 foot pounds (not inch) and it also says that in the manual..
LeeB
This is mine according to the Manual
The W Series 20,700 lb., 22,000 lb. and 24,000 lb. GVWR chassis have an 8 hole wheel with 22mm wheel studs, 33mm lug nut and requires 475 lb. ft. torque. These wheels have a 5000 lb capacity.
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2004 Winnebago Adventurer 33V Workhorse
I need a new avatar picture
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03-28-2021, 05:00 PM
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#4
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 992
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RV's with 22.5 inch wheels take a lot of torque.
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03-28-2021, 05:15 PM
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#5
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Central Valley, California
Posts: 218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by al1florida
RV's with 22.5 inch wheels take a lot of torque.
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Mine has 19.5 wheels but still require 475ft lbs.......
LeeB
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2004 Winnebago Adventurer 33V Workhorse
I need a new avatar picture
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03-28-2021, 05:52 PM
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#6
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 887
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Wow, looks like you are correct, 475 ft lbs. It takes some heavy equpmente to remove or tighten with that much torque. Looking on Amazon, torque wrenches that can handle that much torque start at $169 and have 3/4" drive.
I think I would let the roadside assistance guy handle it.
David
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03-29-2021, 10:56 AM
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#7
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 1,740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeB
So I ordered a Torque Multiplier 1:64 from Amazon. I have received it and watched all kinds of "How To" videos on You Tube and I learned how it works and how to use it. But I see nothing on how to put the Lug Nuts back on and obtain the 475lbs Torque? With out snapping the studs.... Ideas? Suggestions? and or HELP............
Thanks LeeB
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Lee,
The torque multiplier you purchased is a great tool, FOR BREAKING LOOSE those 450 ft.lb. lug nuts. Once they're broken loose, you can use a battery powered impact or drill to spin them the rest of the way off. But, do not, REPEAT, DO NOT use that torque multiplier to tighten the lugs. Those multipliers can easily stretch and even in some cases, snap off a lug stud. They are not intended to be used for re-torquing the lug nuts.
For that purpose, I'm afraid you're gonna have to pony up for a 3/4" drive, 0-600 ft. lb. torque wrench. DIY type operations, doesn't always mean CHEAP. It means you're willing to do the work yourself. But, in many cases, the PROPER TOOLS are what's needed to do a job correctly.
Yeah, you can do all the fancy math stuff with levers, extensions and all that but, if you're going to do any form of repeticious wheel removal and re-install, then simply buy the correct torque wrench. You'll have it for the rest of your life and you'll always know the job was done CORRECTLY. It's your coach, and your wheels, and YOUR LIFE, if those wheels and tires are not installed using proper procedure.
I use the same style torque multiplier for removal of mine. Then, I got lucky and found a KD 3/4" 100-600 ft.lb. torque wrench on Ebay for $75. I got it and it's been working flawlessly for years. I'd never be without it. It torques my 450 ft. lb. lug nuts to precisely that, each and every time. Oh, I also created a helper for torquing the rear lugs when you have to use an extension. It's a multi-level support for the extension. It works slick.
Scott
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2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '08 GL 1800 Gold Wing
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Sophie character, (mini Schnauzer)
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04-01-2021, 01:02 PM
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#8
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: California
Posts: 470
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I would get the new tire in place with the lug nuts torqued as much as possible and then drive to a tire store and let them take it to 450 lb ft. I found it difficult to get the wheel nuts to 140 lb ft without resorting to using a 24-inch breaker bar. For 450 lb ft of torque I would want an industrial grade impact wrench and an air compressor which is not something I would take on the road.
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04-01-2021, 06:06 PM
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#9
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 48
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My torque multiplier has a 1/2" input and a 3/4" output drive. I use a breaker bar to break the lug nuts free and a 1/2" torque wrench to tighten them to 475 ft-lbs. I don’t understand what the confusion is all about.
If your torque multiplier does not have a 1/2" square input, you bought the wrong one. Send it back. Get a different one.
Take a look at this one >>> https://www.otctools.com/products/to...ier-1100-lb-ft
Divide the desired output torque by the tools torque ratio to get the input torque. In this case 475/3.3 = 144 ft-lbs. I wouldn’t worry about the frictional losses.
BTW, you should bring the lug nuts up in steps and not straight to 475 ft-lbs.
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'06 Winnebago Voyage 33', W20, 8.1L
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04-04-2021, 12:46 PM
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#10
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 1,740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elkman
I would get the new tire in place with the lug nuts torqued as much as possible and then drive to a tire store and let them take it to 450 lb ft. I found it difficult to get the wheel nuts to 140 lb ft without resorting to using a 24-inch breaker bar. For 450 lb ft of torque I would want an industrial grade impact wrench and an air compressor which is not something I would take on the road.
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No, you don't need an "industrial grade impact". You simply need what I described above, a 3/4" drive 0 or, 150-600 ft lb, click torque wrench, DONE! And, as for carrying ANYTHING on the road, nope, ain't happening. That's what ERS is for. If I had to bet, I'd bet that waaaaaaay less than 1/2 of 1 percent of diesel RV drivers carry any kind of tools like that and or, wouldn't even think about messing with repairing or changing their own DP RV tires out on the road. And, to those that do, more power to ya.
Scott
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeSR
My torque multiplier has a 1/2" input and a 3/4" output drive. I use a breaker bar to break the lug nuts free and a 1/2" torque wrench to tighten them to 475 ft-lbs. I don’t understand what the confusion is all about.
If your torque multiplier does not have a 1/2" square input, you bought the wrong one. Send it back. Get a different one.
Take a look at this one >>> https://www.otctools.com/products/to...ier-1100-lb-ft
Divide the desired output torque by the tools torque ratio to get the input torque. In this case 475/3.3 = 144 ft-lbs. I wouldn’t worry about the frictional losses.
BTW, you should bring the lug nuts up in steps and not straight to 475 ft-lbs.
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That torque multiplier you purchased is but one of many types out there. "The wrong one" is not the wrong one at all, it's simply A DIFFERENT MODEL. The one I show in the picture is very easy to use. In fact, my wife sat on a stool and used it to break loose my 450 ft lb. lug nuts. But, also as stated, that torque multiplier is NOT TO BE USED FOR TIGHTENING the lug nuts. A 3/4" torque wrench is used for that purpose and yes, it's a proper procedure to "step" torque those lug nuts. I do 250, then 350 and finally 450. I don't have to calculate ANYTHING. I just set the wrench to the desired torque and apply it, DONE.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '08 GL 1800 Gold Wing
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Sophie character, (mini Schnauzer)
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04-04-2021, 05:46 PM
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#11
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CZBB RV6A 2008 29R Sight
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 206
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I gotta build me one of those.
Great idea Fireup.
I know exactly the problem you've created that to fix and wish I'd thought of it. Well done. I also noticed you have offset each side to give you more options.
As for carrying tools. I have a 19.5 spare so i carry the tools to do the fix. A 24" breaker bar, extension and socket. I only need 150ftlb of torque and if i have to do this on the road I'm going to tighten the hell out of them. I'll be going straight to a tire shop and get the flat fixed and torqued down right.
Otherwise there is no way. I'd call ERS. That's why we have it right?
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2008 Sightseer 29R with a 2017 Yamaha SMax hanging on the back or a 2018 Jeep JL trailing behind.
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04-04-2021, 07:11 PM
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#12
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Skiatook, OK
Posts: 1,460
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I'm with JoeSR I use a proto torque multiplier J6212 to remove and install the lug nuts on our coach. It is a precision tool with a 1 to 6.0 ratio. 79 ft lbs in and 475 ft lbs out.
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Grant & Pat
2014 Adventurer 35P
2021 Rapid Red 4dr Bronco OBX
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04-06-2021, 09:49 AM
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#13
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP
That torque multiplier you purchased is but one of many types out there. "The wrong one" is not the wrong one at all, it's simply A DIFFERENT MODEL. The one I show in the picture is very easy to use. In fact, my wife sat on a stool and used it to break loose my 450 ft lb. lug nuts. But, also as stated, that torque multiplier is NOT TO BE USED FOR TIGHTENING the lug nuts. A 3/4" torque wrench is used for that purpose and yes, it's a proper procedure to "step" torque those lug nuts. I do 250, then 350 and finally 450. I don't have to calculate ANYTHING. I just set the wrench to the desired torque and apply it, DONE.
Scott
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Would you explain WHY you should NOT use the torque multiplier and a 50 to 150 Ft Lb torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts?
It seems like just plain math to multiply the torque wrench setting by the multiplier number of the torque multiplier to equal the torque needed for the lug nuts.
As far a stepping up, just use lower settings on the small torque wrench to step up the proper torque.
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04-20-2021, 02:25 PM
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#14
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 203
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I too, bought a torque multiplier to facilitate the removal of my 475 ft/lb lugs. It is a 54:1 ratio, and I tried it on 1 lug to be sure it worked. Wow...I think my 5 yr old grandson could easily remove the lugs. As for re-installing...I will use a small 1/4" drive torque wrench on the torque multiplier and tighten to 8.5 lbs. I see no problem with that. 54:1 ratio off is no different than 54:1 ratio on.
Keep in mind that this will not be used for routine maintenance. It is simply to be confident that I CAN change a flat IF I need to, and I will likely get the lugs re-torqued at a tire shop later.
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You don't stop playing because you grow old...You grow old because you stop playing!
2004 Itasca M30W
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