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Old 01-18-2014, 11:33 PM   #41
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Yes, a lot of us have. It is easy to do.
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:00 AM   #42
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Has anyone changed these HWH springs. Mine need changing, tired of the 2X4 leveraging and kneeling in the dirt.
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use the search function near the top of the forum page. you will find many posts of how to change the hwh springs including mine with pictures.
be safe and support your moho with jackstands before you go under it.
you can add info about your moho in the signature portion of your profile so that it will look something like the bottom of this post.
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:51 AM   #43
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The best way to help the "slow jack" problem is not to extend them so far. I built four 12" x 12" x 5 1/2" jack blocks with eye bolts on the side to install and remove with a dowl/hook. These jack blocks cut the retract time in half. I never use them on sites that are far out of level and they are a pain to get out and put up, but they work!!!
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:41 AM   #44
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Inspector,

If your jacks are so stiff that you have to use a pry to get them up I doubt just upgrading to the newer behive/tapered end springs will be enough of a improvment to get them to retract like they should. Its worth a try but don't be suprised if they don't fix your problem. If you have a hydraulic repair shop in your area talk to them and ask if they are familiar with repairing HWH jacks. They are a little bit tricky to get apart and a shop that doesn't have experience with them would not be a good spot to take them. When we bought our coach used all four were either slow or had to be pryed up. A local shop said they were very familiar with them and repaired a lot of them. They did all four and now they come right up. It cost me about $200.00 each for the repair.

If you are at all mechanically inclined they are pretty easy to remove/install. The plates that hold them in place do not have to be removed. Just loosen the two 3/8" bolts and spread the plates so they come off of the pins. There is a electrical connector for the warning light and a single hose connection on top. The hose end nut takes a 5/8" open end wrench. This description is for straight jacks not the swing up type.

To get the springs off of the pads I bought a package of wooden clothes pins and took them apart. I ran the jack all the way down to stretch the spring out as much as possible. I then pushed the half clothes pins in between the coils on both sides being careful to place them so they would not hit anything when the jack retracted. I put in as many as I had room for. Then I retracted the jack having to use a pry to help get them up. The clothes pins kept the spring from retracting and allowed the hooks to be disconnected from the pad.

I put blocks under the front tires to give me room to work under the coach. You may need to put blocks under the jack pads to get the front tires high enough to place blocking under them.

There may be other ways to do this but this is my way.

Jim
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Old 01-19-2014, 12:17 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by John Hilley View Post
I would wipe it down good with a clean cloth and then spray with silicone. It could be weak springs. It's worth a try to try to clean and lubricate it.
That is the #1 cure for slow retraction of jacks.

NOTE: on some Power Gear jacks, USUALLY on the rear, you may find a ZERK fitting in the collar that is around the bottom of the FIXED portion of the jack. (just above the shiny protion)

A single stroke of a grease gun loaded with White Lithium is recommended.... I use black, not white, but it works great.

Where as the spray needs to be done fairly often, I stroke it about 2x a year.
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:27 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPO_Retired View Post
For problems with HWH jacks read this maintenance bulletin for the factory recommended maintenance and upkeep of the jacks. HWH says to only use WD-40 not silicon or other lubricants. http://www.winnebagoind.com/resource...WH%20Jacks.pdf
Thanks for the link about using WD 40 Anyone replaced the springs?
Tom
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:31 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by jauguston View Post
Inspector,

If your jacks are so stiff that you have to use a pry to get them up I doubt just upgrading to the newer behive/tapered end springs will be enough of a improvment to get them to retract like they should. Its worth a try but don't be suprised if they don't fix your problem. If you have a hydraulic repair shop in your area talk to them and ask if they are familiar with repairing HWH jacks. They are a little bit tricky to get apart and a shop that doesn't have experience with them would not be a good spot to take them. When we bought our coach used all four were either slow or had to be pryed up. A local shop said they were very familiar with them and repaired a lot of them. They did all four and now they come right up. It cost me about $200.00 each for the repair.

If you are at all mechanically inclined they are pretty easy to remove/install. The plates that hold them in place do not have to be removed. Just loosen the two 3/8" bolts and spread the plates so they come off of the pins. There is a electrical connector for the warning light and a single hose connection on top. The hose end nut takes a 5/8" open end wrench. This description is for straight jacks not the swing up type.

To get the springs off of the pads I bought a package of wooden clothes pins and took them apart. I ran the jack all the way down to stretch the spring out as much as possible. I then pushed the half clothes pins in between the coils on both sides being careful to place them so they would not hit anything when the jack retracted. I put in as many as I had room for. Then I retracted the jack having to use a pry to help get them up. The clothes pins kept the spring from retracting and allowed the hooks to be disconnected from the pad.

I put blocks under the front tires to give me room to work under the coach. You may need to put blocks under the jack pads to get the front tires high enough to place blocking under them.

There may be other ways to do this but this is my way.

Jim
I love the clothes pin tool sounds like the best idea. Thanks, Tom
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:36 AM   #48
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I replaced all my springs before I had the jacks fixed. They did not cure MY problem.
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:14 PM   #49
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Only one (left rear) is slow to retract and only when it's cold or even just cool. I never waiting over 15 minutes either. Thanks for posting reply. Tom
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:24 PM   #50
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I must be doing something wrong!
Our rig is 12 model years old, ordered in April of 2002, delivered June 26th. Still has the original straight springs and I've never lubricated the rams.
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:43 AM   #51
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I have commented on many similar posts because of the frustration I have experienced with this problem over the years. A few months ago I came across a post for a CRC product. Her is the amazon post for it: CRC Power Lube Industrial High Performance Lubricant with PTFE, 11 oz Aerosol Can, Light Amber/White: Amazon.com: Automotive

First, I noticed proponents of silicon spray. HWH does not recommend this as it leaves a buildup that restricts the jacks.

I washed the jacks with WD40 as HWH recommends. Then I sprayed the CRC product on them.

Before I treated them the jacks were very slow coming up. I can now report, with confidence, that the jacks are fully up in about 1 1/2 minutes. Cold weather or hot, retraction time is about the same.

Others have noted that running the engine brings in that annoying alarm. I stow the jacks in the aux position.

My jacks were down for a few weeks the last time I pulled them up. They came up as fast as the day I treated them. Over the years in my other coaches I had tried the 'recommended' procedures and was as frustrated as all who have struggled with this problem. This coach is new to me as of May of '13. When I used the CRC for the first time I was hesitant. I didn't want to make things worse. Now I am so glad that I did.

Just a side not about this stuff. My patio awning would sound like fighting cats when it opened and closed. I sprayed this stuff on the moving parts and everything quieted down. I originally bought it for the slide tracks and gears. It worked so well on them that I started experimenting and sprayed it on most of the moving parts on the coach. Everything, door hinges and locks, latches and such, seems to work smoother, not rusting and not collecting dirt.

I hope you have the same results as I have had if you go this root.

Happy trails.

Rick
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:26 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimooo View Post
Any one know how to quiet that annoying beeping while jacks are down with ignition on?

Thanks,

James
Well if it is a power gear system leaving the transmission in PARK and the parking brake ON should keep it from beeping.

There is some good and bad info up-thread and one missing item

First: The information to spray em down with Silicon lube.. That is what Power Gear says to do and .. It works. Power gear says to do this every couple of weeks as I recall without looking.

Missing: Take a look at the FIXED part of the jack Just above the part that extends.. There is a ring there, SOME of these have a ZERK fitting on them (Some do not). Hit it with a single stroke of a gun loaded with WHITE LITHIUM. That lasts much longer than the spray.

False: Engine running... For Jack EXTENSION the pump need full system voltage, so the Engine Running provides full ALTERNATOR voltage, where as battery alone may not be enough.

For Retraction however only a little bit of power is needed, the jacks are pulled up by springs. So the engine need not be running, though odds are the key will have to be in the ON position since the controls may be wired to the IGNITION circuit, not the ACCESSORY.. (Depends on where they hooked it in).
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:56 AM   #53
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I use Silicone spray on mine regularly to keep the retract speed up. Am I impatient-Yup (-:
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:44 AM   #54
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This is an on going issue with HWH jacks. I have replaced springs, no visible improvement. I have tried silicone spray and WD40 (which I prefer) but the main factor is to keep the piston clean. The most improvement I see is if I am using the jacks frequently, every 2-3 days. Additionally, I think the weather temp has the most effect on my jacks. Cold weather, forget it! If mine are too slow to meet my schedule I pull out the 6 foot pipe and push them up, usually just one is slow, and off I go.
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:54 AM   #55
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The jack cylinders can be fixed by a good hydraulic repair shop that has experience with HWH cylinders. Find one in your local area and ask them if they have experience working on them. If not find another shop they are kind of tricky to get apart. There are 2 phenolic bushings inside of them and the shop that fixed mine said the bushing swell up. They put the bushings in a lathe and machine the bushings back to the correct dimensions.
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:16 AM   #56
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Power Gear and HWH are in conflict over silicone spray, true. And greasing is another question among manufactures. But I want to assure all of you this truth. Before you spend the big bucks and down time, try the CRC spray I mentioned above. For those who doubt my intentions, NO, I do not have any affiliation or financial interest in CRC. I am a RVer like you.

My jacks were very slow when I bought this rig. Cold worse than warm or hot weather. After cleaning the jacks with WD40 and spraying them with CRC power lube they retract quickly every time and in any temp at about the same rate.

HWH is notorious for dirt building up at the piston entrance ring. I made certain this area was clean and I also extended the jack as far as I could without lifting the back wheels. (Not good for a DP.) After cleaning and spraying the CRC I used my hand (clean) to spread the stuff all over the shaft.

As I previously stated, I first did this CRC thing reluctantly. I didn't expect any great results. NEVER did I expect the results to be as good as they are. I may start another post on the CRC results and get a real world feel for what is going on. Please look for it and post your results. Thanks.

Rick
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:00 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post
Power Gear and HWH are in conflict over silicone spray, true. And greasing is another question among manufactures. But I want to assure all of you this truth. Before you spend the big bucks and down time, try the CRC spray I mentioned above. For those who doubt my intentions, NO, I do not have any affiliation or financial interest in CRC. I am a RVer like you. My jacks were very slow when I bought this rig. Cold worse than warm or hot weather. After cleaning the jacks with WD40 and spraying them with CRC power lube they retract quickly every time and in any temp at about the same rate. HWH is notorious for dirt building up at the piston entrance ring. I made certain this area was clean and I also extended the jack as far as I could without lifting the back wheels. (Not good for a DP.) After cleaning and spraying the CRC I used my hand (clean) to spread the stuff all over the shaft. As I previously stated, I first did this CRC thing reluctantly. I didn't expect any great results. NEVER did I expect the results to be as good as they are. I may start another post on the CRC results and get a real world feel for what is going on. Please look for it and post your results. Thanks. Rick
I totally agree as it was my cure as well. I think any high quality silicone will work equally as well. Mine happened to be WD-40 Silicone. Still worked awesome. Only thing I didn't do was clean it with WD-40 first. I will definitely do that next time. Silicone is like magic in a can.

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Old 01-23-2014, 05:10 AM   #58
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I totally agree as it was my cure as well. I think any high quality silicone will work equally as well. Mine happened to be WD-40 Silicone. Still worked awesome. Only thing I didn't do was clean it with WD-40 first. I will definitely do that next time. Silicone is like magic in a can.

Alan
Thanks for the feedback Alan. I do wonder about silicone though. HWH warns that it will attract dust and dirt. That builds up on the piston, ever so slightly, and does the opposite of its purpose according to them. I know I had much trouble with my jacks on the previous two rigs. This CRC stuff has a Teflon compound that really seems to work and work well over time and 'dusting' conditions.

One of the problems I noticed was rain. The splattering of the raindrops catapulted dirt onto the jacks. Often they would not come up, or were really slow in doing so until I wiped them down. I have not had this problem since I have been using CRC.

I have a power lube thread started. I hope folks join in and talk about their results.

Happy trails and speedy jacks,
Rick
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:22 AM   #59
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Thanks for the feedback Alan. I do wonder about silicone though. HWH warns that it will attract dust and dirt. That builds up on the piston, ever so slightly, and does the opposite of its purpose according to them. I know I had much trouble with my jacks on the previous two rigs. This CRC stuff has a Teflon compound that really seems to work and work well over time and 'dusting' conditions. One of the problems I noticed was rain. The splattering of the raindrops catapulted dirt onto the jacks. Often they would not come up, or were really slow in doing so until I wiped them down. I have not had this problem since I have been using CRC. I have a power lube thread started. I hope folks join in and talk about their results. Happy trails and speedy jacks, Rick
Rick,

I think you right if a person does NOT use a DRY silicone or one that is dry in a short time. That is what Jon Brazel from Brazels Performance RV told me. If it is not one the is a dry lubricant it will attract dust and dirt. In my mind the cylinder shaft will always get exposed to the elements hence creating a collection of dirt which is why I liked your comment on cleaning it with WD-40 first. Duh! I should have thought of that myself. I actually use the same silicone spray on my tow bar which is where I was amazed at how it took a bar that almost could not make slide in and out and within seconds worked like a dream!

Alan
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Old 01-24-2014, 11:55 PM   #60
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We have a 2005 Winnebago Journey 39F. Our jacks are painfully slow. The rears will go up at a good pace but the front ones are terrible. Sometimes the front passenger can take 30-45 minutes. Sometimes it stops altogether and you have to put it all the way back down and start all over. It became so annoying we dreaded having to level the coach at all. When we returned from our last trip we took it in to our local shop and told them to please check it out. They said that they were replacing a switch to see if that helps. If not, then we will try some of your suggestions. We never thought of lubricating them.
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