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Old 09-27-2013, 02:53 PM   #21
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As I recall HWH says NOT to use silicon spray. It builds up and slows the retraction process. I was told to run the jacks down and clean them with WD40 only, using a soft rag to wipe them down. That was what I did on my '05 Vectra and it greatly improved retraction. Also, I had a bad shuttle valve. I did not realize this until it failed completely when having service done at the factory. When that problem was gone the jacks worked much better.

On this coach I am trying something as an experiment. So far VERY good. I am using CRC Power Lube on them. In fact I have gotten the noise out of my patio awning tracks, my bathroom door, my slide track and rollers and yesterday freed up my power mirrors the the CRC. Great stuff and the smell reminds me of Grandpas liniment. If the jacks start to slow down I will go back to WD 40.
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Old 09-28-2013, 01:44 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David K View Post
As a bit of clarification here on this post. Two years ago, HWH finally came out and said to use WD40 as the lubricant on the extended jacks --- they said DO NOT USE Silicone as it will destroy the seals. They said to use the WD40 and DO NOT WIPE IT OFF -- let the seals do the wiping as the jacks are retracting. This was a change as in the past they had said to not use anything. Also, if it is the HWH hydraulic leveling system, the hydraulic system is not running as stated above but, when you start up the system and tell it to "store" the jacks, a valve is opened and the springs retract the jacks forcing the hydraulic fluid back into the storage tank. You should leave the system on until it turns itself off which allows all fluid to be back into the tank. Just my 2 cents worth on the subject.
Called HWH to ask about slow retraction and was told it would be weeks before an engineer could call me back.

When I said I just wanted to know what, if anything, I could use to decrease retraction time and was told to use WD-40 but to wipe it all all before retracting.

Someone else want call HWH home office and see what response they get.
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Old 09-28-2013, 01:51 PM   #23
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I am sure this is old info (2006) but it states up to 26 minutes allowable retraction time at low temperatures.

http://www.winnebagoind.com/resource...Retraction.pdf
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:01 PM   #24
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I found this on the HWH web site. Little bit newer info but not much. Provides the new spring numbers.
Another member had posted pictures of homemade retracting aid he had made , I'll try and track it down. 2X4 with plywood 1/2 moon , pivot points, acted like a teeter totter, so you could stand on one end and push up the jack pad with the other.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf HWH jack & spring info.pdf (8.6 KB, 188 views)
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Old 09-28-2013, 03:01 PM   #25
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I solved the slow jack problem. I pushed the store button, went outside and observed how long it took each jack to fully retract. It turned out that by the time the two font jacks were retracted all the way, the rear jacks were within three inches of being fully retracted.
I now take off after the fronts are fully retracted. The rears are fully retracted within a mile or two . No more waiting any more !!!
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:16 AM   #26
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I have been told that in addition to "weak springs" sometimes "tight seals" coupled with dirt will slow down the slides. I have a 2011 which had retraction issues. Since then, I spray each time with Liquid Wrench L 512 which is a dry lubricant available from Amazon. Since I began this procedure, the jacks promptly retract. Liquid Wrench L512 Dry Lubricant with CERFLON - 11 oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Old 10-03-2013, 02:43 AM   #27
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I have been told that in addition to "weak springs" sometimes "tight seals" coupled with dirt will slow down the slides. I have a 2011 which had retraction issues. Since then, I spray each time with Liquid Wrench L 512 which is a dry lubricant available from Amazon. Since I began this procedure, the jacks promptly retract. Liquid Wrench L512 Dry Lubricant with CERFLON - 11 oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive
wally world has l-w dry lube in their rv dept. in vancouver wa.
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Old 10-09-2013, 02:25 AM   #28
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For problems with HWH jacks read this maintenance bulletin for the factory recommended maintenance and upkeep of the jacks. HWH says to only use WD-40 not silicon or other lubricants. http://www.winnebagoind.com/resource...WH%20Jacks.pdf
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:18 AM   #29
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Two of the jacks on my 2006 Journey 39K were slow also. I took it to HWH in Moscow, IA. They replaced the front driver's side jack that was bent. (Don't know how that happened.) But the passenger side rear was within tolerance which to them is 15 minutes. Really? Before I wholesaled the coach I was forcing that jack up with a scissors jack just to speed up the process. It just didn't want to seat. I had tried WD40 and silicone also but that didn't work all that well. The alarm was always very annoying. They could have provided some way to silence it after five minutes.
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:26 AM   #30
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HWH seems unwilling to admit there is a design flaw with their jacks that is often the cause of the slow retraction.

When I bought our Sportscoach used all the jacks were very slow retracting. Two had to be levered up the last 4-5 inches. I contacted a local hydraulic repair shop and asked if they knew what was the issue with them and could they fix them. They said they did know exactly what was wrong and they had been fixing HWH jacks for years. They said HWH uses two phenolic (plastic) bushings inside and the hydraulic fluid would cause the bushings to swell up and bind the shaft. They dismantled the jacks and put the bushings in their lathe and made a slight cut out of the inside of the bushings returning the bushing to shaft clearance back to factory tolerance. No need to replace the bushings just a quick machining and a new seal O-Ring and reasemble. That was in 2010 and they still work fine.

Any good hydraulic repair shop should be able to fix them.

Jim
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:46 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoggieDaddy View Post
Two of the jacks on my 2006 Journey 39K were slow also. I took it to HWH in Moscow, IA. They replaced the front driver's side jack that was bent. (Don't know how that happened.) But the passenger side rear was within tolerance which to them is 15 minutes. Really? Before I wholesaled the coach I was forcing that jack up with a scissors jack just to speed up the process. It just didn't want to seat. I had tried WD40 and silicone also but that didn't work all that well. The alarm was always very annoying. They could have provided some way to silence it after five minutes.

As mentioned above on my 39K retracting the jacks with the ignition key in the auxiliary position the jacks alarm is off.
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Old 10-14-2013, 01:56 PM   #32
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On my Adventurer 37F, the jacks seem a little slow, but they work just fine. I can not even raise or lower my jacks without the motor running. There is a sign on the dash that says the motor must be running to adjust the jacks. If I put my ignition key on "aux" position, all that happens is a loud pumping sound having something to do with the brakes. The dealer said it was normal for that model year. (2012)
Hope he's right.
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:02 PM   #33
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Are your jacks slow in cold weather and faster in warmer weather ? If so, HWH sells a thinner hydraulic oil that might be of help.
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:22 PM   #34
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Any one know how to quiet that annoying beeping while jacks are down with ignition on?

Thanks,

James
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:01 AM   #35
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Any one know how to quiet that annoying beeping while jacks are down with ignition on? Thanks, James
You could disconnect the warning bell although I would be reluctant to do that.
Like I said in an earlier post, my jacks will get about two inches of full retraction and that's when I take off. Within a mile or two they are fully retracted. I like to know when they are all the way up that's why the bell doesn't bother me. I also take a look at them when I do my walk around to make sure they are going up, antenna down, wife in etc.
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:23 AM   #36
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Quote:
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Any one know how to quiet that annoying beeping while jacks are down with ignition on?

Thanks,

James
Jim,
I had to do exactly that because when I retract the jacks the alarm will not go off. For the first few times I would have to travel 80-100 miles down the highway and then they would go off. Sometimes only 5 miles, but most it was much longer. Drove DW up the windshield. So it became a necessity. The necessity was because neither the Winnebago Service Center in IA, nor my dealer can fix the problem. That is another long story that I have posted elsewhere.

As was stated you really have to have a good checklist and one on my list is that DW gets out just before we roll and does a light check. She also does a walk around checking bays and checking all the jacks to see if they are up. Knock on wood we have never had to have her come back in and say that the jacks were down. We have been doing this for the past two years and every time we return home we put it back into the dealers shop to see if they can fix it. They say it is fixed and the next time out it does the same thing.

Now, for what I did. At first, I pulled off the Kwikee controller board and unplugged the 4 pin connector from the back of the board. This removes power and silences the alarm. The continuous removing of the 4 screws to the controller board was rounding out the holes in the luan so I purchased a single pole single throw switch from "shady-ol-rack" and with a long enough thread to go through the thicker board. I drilled a hole to accommodate the switch and mounted it to the hole. The back of the switch has push on blades, and lo and behold, the power (red) from the controller board went to the back of a little module with push-on spades. I only had to configure one wire with spades for the switch to the module. Now when I retract and the alarm stays on I just flip the switch. Crude, but worth the solitude when driving.

As for you, if you are just wanting to kill the alarm because it is annoying, I am wondering why. You could put a switch in-line with the alarm beeper and accomplish the same thing. Others have provided information on this forum on how to put a timer in-line which may be safer. In any case, one has to be extremely careful that the jacks are up when you get ready to depart, even if the alarm is working correctly.
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:45 PM   #37
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I had slow retracting jacks on my motorhome. One day one of the springs broke on the front jacks. I ordered new springs from HWH and replaced springs on both of the front jacks. They now retract completely in about 60/90 seconds. The rears are very slow and take about 3 1/2 minutes. I plan to replace the springs on them this winter.
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:44 AM   #38
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Some years ago HWH changed the design of the retract springs to ones that were stronger. I don't know what year it was but the newer style are easy to identify. The new ones have a tapered bee hive shape on both ends. If you have the older style springs and your jacks are slow retracting replacing them with the new style can help.

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Old 10-19-2013, 04:40 AM   #39
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Several of the folks are right on point. The non petroleum silicon spray should do the trick. Also, don't turn off the unit until it fully cycles. Allow the unit to "do it's thing" is the best approach. I go to HWH each year on the way to GNR just to get a check up. You can camp there on their grounds at no charge.
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Old 01-18-2014, 11:20 PM   #40
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Has anyone changed these HWH springs. Mine need changing, tired of the 2X4 leveraging and kneeling in the dirt.
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