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Old 08-21-2016, 03:29 PM   #1
TAN
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Just checked my roof

I noticed that on the edges of the roof that the caulking is needing to be replaced. What kind of caulking should I use? Should I use tape? I hope I have explained this well enough. Thank You.
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Old 08-21-2016, 03:34 PM   #2
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Depending upon where you mean, tape usually results in a neater looking install and lasts longer too.

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Old 08-21-2016, 04:17 PM   #3
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If it's where the sides meet the roof, then Winnebago will have a page you can download detailing the kind of caulk you should use. I ordered mine off of Amazon. I carefully removed the old caulk and used painters tape on both sides of the caulk line to ensure I had a clean look, then recalled. For mine, it urethane, which is sticky to work with, so I also used rubber gloves to make clean up easier. It took about 1-2 hours per side.

I've also thought about using tape, but the one picture I saw where they used it, it looks like it can separate a little from the sides when the RV flexes when going over uneven surfaces. It looked like it still maintained the seal, but you could tell it wasn't a tight seal in the middle of the tape. You could also easily tell it was taped up, so if that bothers you, then you might want to replace the caulking. I'd love to hear others experiences with the, and also get photos.
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Old 08-21-2016, 04:32 PM   #4
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I used Eternabond tape on my 04 Sightseer that I just sold! Very pleased with how it held up the 4+ years after applying it to the roof/wall seam. Plan to do on my new Sonova if I can match the color!
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Old 08-21-2016, 05:27 PM   #5
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Yes it's where the roof meets the sides.
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:49 AM   #6
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That tiny side seam is critical to the integrity of the Winnebago roof. I think I recall that their guidance indicates the integrity of the seam/caulk should be checked every six months. I check my annually. The sealant call-out list will tell you what type caulk to use. You absolutely do not want a silicone based caulk. I believe the normal one is a solvent-based thermoplastic rubber type.
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Old 08-23-2016, 04:33 PM   #7
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How much of the old caulk do you remove? What is the best way to remove the old caulk? Looks like I need to do the roof caulk on my new to me 09 Tour!

Thanks!

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Old 08-23-2016, 10:19 PM   #8
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Just checked my roof

MutinyGuy, I removed all the old caulk that I could using a plastic paint scraper (and very carefully with a pocket knife), then I cleaned it really good with alcohol, taped the area using painter's tape before caulking, and then after it cured, I took off the painters tape and re-applied wash wax all.

The caulking seemed to work best if I got some underneath the fiberglass sheet so there was something helping it stay in place, and then I used my finger (which I had in disposable rubber gloves because the urethane is a sticky mess) to smooth it out.

It looks good and the caulking has not separated from the fiberglass roof or aluminum side rail after about 5 months now.
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Old 08-23-2016, 10:53 PM   #9
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Go here... Winnebago Industries

and download the 2010-10 Service tip "Roof to Sidewall Joint Sealing"
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Old 08-23-2016, 11:40 PM   #10
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Just checked my roof

emiddleb, that is a good document, and one I used to get started. However, notice the small amount of "sealant" in the diagram? I had to push on the fiberglass a little and put some behind the fiberglass sheet to make it really stick tight and stay connected.

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Old 08-24-2016, 10:55 AM   #11
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I've had to replace the caulking in two places on my coach, a 3' section at the front of the drivers side, and a 5' section at the rear of the passenger side. I had to do the first section when the coach was less than 2 years old,so I figured that what Winnebago was using for caulking wasn't so great. I used exterior weatherproof silicone and after 15 months it still looks good. 3 T's in Lake Havasu City, (the best service location that we've come across), also uses silicone when re-caulking the roofs so I took that into consideration when choosing a caulk material.
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Old 08-24-2016, 08:05 PM   #12
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I had to do a large portion of mine after the screws broke off in one area and had to be replaced. It was necessary to remove the old sealant and pull the fiberglass roof out of the channel to replace the screws. I then put the roof back in and resealed it. I contacted Lichtsinn RV and ordered the proper sealant Winnebago recommends for that application. Any old silicone won't do.

For removal I used a plastic scraper and carpet knife being careful not to damage the roof membrane. I cleaned with alcohol before putting down the new sealant. Many people swear by Eternabond tape and I probably would have used it if I could have found a matching color. I plan to get some for where the front and rear caps meet the roof. That area can't be seen from the ground.
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Old 08-24-2016, 10:37 PM   #13
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I resealed the roof cove seam last year. I used 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 4000 UV. So far it's holding up, good thorough prep is the key to a lasting seal.

Lichtsinn.com has a video on roof cove maintenance. They cover in detail what to look for and what caulk they use.
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Old 08-26-2016, 10:55 AM   #14
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Just did mine this week. I normally inspect at the end of winter, when roof gets cleaned and waxed, but this year, it was in the shop (another story, misjudged guard rail on right side). Last year, seal still looked and felt good, still soft. Got up there last week, yikes, 2/3 of it was missing, other third, dry and brittle.

Went to Winne dealer and got recommended adhesive, a polyurethane base, and did the job. Used a screwdriver to remove the still attached areas, compressed air to clean out track. Cleaned the roof with black remover, then water and finally with rubbing alcohol. Blue painter tape to set line. Don't put it too close to channel. Two tubes of adhesive did front cap and sides of 33V, just enough.

Slowly moved along channel, making sure it was being pressed into channel. Wiped away with finger and looks better than new. Remove tape after it set, which took about six hours.

Whole job took about four hours. Warm dry day.
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Old 08-29-2016, 09:58 PM   #15
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The View has the exact same setup at shown in the drawing Macnut shows in his post. WBO realized that the sealant was not holding up well in that location (at least on the Views, and that larger surface area was needed for adhesion. They recommended using screen door spline (you want the smallest you can get, .050 inch) and work it down in there after removing the old sealant, not too far or it will slip past the bottom of the thin fiberglass sheet. Then mask and fill the gap, now larger, with urethane sealant (WBO recommendation) and this has good adhesion and extreme stretch without shearing.

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Old 08-30-2016, 09:51 AM   #16
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I did mine in June. Removed two layers of old caulk from previous owners. Cleaned with acetone. Applied polurethane caulk. Took a while but it looked good. After it cured, I put some white Gorilla tape over the caulk, hoping some extra uv protection might extend the life of my caulk...probably unnecessary, but it did not take long to apply the tape.
From my reading, one should be careful cleaning with alcohol before applying polyurethane caulks as alcohol can inhibit curing of some caulks. As the above poster did the job carefully on a hot day, the alcohol probably dried/ vaporized quickly before the caulk was applied.
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Old 09-04-2016, 07:03 PM   #17
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At least 4 years ago I used the 2" eternabond tape. After reading different topics on sealing the roof, I felt the tape would be my answer and it was. The black tape blended very well with my color scheme . One of the things that concerned me was the seam coming loose, thus creating a bigger problem . To my thinking I not only eliminated having to caulk or repair caulk every six months. it also made the seam more secure. I still check the tape, and to date it is still looking good !
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Old 10-21-2016, 01:07 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macnut View Post
emiddleb, that is a good document, and one I used to get started. However, notice the small amount of "sealant" in the diagram? I had to push on the fiberglass a little and put some behind the fiberglass sheet to make it really stick tight and stay connected.

The placement of this important sealant in the diagram is correct. The Approved sealant to use there is NuFlex 640.
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Old 10-21-2016, 01:37 PM   #19
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Just removed the old caulk and resealed mine earlier this week. I used a putty knife to remove the old sealant then washed down. I resealed with DAP Clear, an elastomeric adhesive sealant. I used it before to reseal windows on our previous MH. It stays pretty clear and has very good adhesive properties.

I didn't mask it, used my finger, wearing disposable gloves, to smooth it out. Cleaned up the excess with mineral spirits, have to be quick though. Once it starts to skin over it's harder to smooth out. Once cured the mineral spirits won't remove it. Over 60' of roof line and there were only a few spots where had to use the mineral spirits.

Don't know about you guys but many people cut too much off the end of the caulk tube. Too much caulk makes a mess. You can always add more caulk or cut off a little more of the tip but if you start too big you'll have a mess. With the small opening I was able to push it down, flexing the roof panel so the sealant went down between the rail and the roof.

We'll see how well it holds up but as I said I've used it before. Roofers also used it to seal the flashing against the chimneys when we had our roof replaced.
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Old 10-21-2016, 05:15 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RvWarner View Post
I've had to replace the caulking in two places on my coach, a 3' section at the front of the drivers side, and a 5' section at the rear of the passenger side. I had to do the first section when the coach was less than 2 years old,so I figured that what Winnebago was using for caulking wasn't so great. I used exterior weatherproof silicone and after 15 months it still looks good. 3 T's in Lake Havasu City, (the best service location that we've come across), also uses silicone when re-caulking the roofs so I took that into consideration when choosing a caulk material.
Brent
RvWarner,
Living here in Lake Havasu City, I too cruised over to 3Ts and asked what they use on the roof-to-gutter sealant. Tina, the owners daughter, said "Silicone" is what we use extensively. I replied "Silicone" ??? She said, "Yep," it works just fine and we've NEVER HAD ANY COME BACK! So, I figured she must know what she's talking about since her dad has had extensive relationships with Winne and Itasca for decades.

So, I purchased some UV resistant Silicone and, replaced about 4-5' of gutter seam sealant on each side of the front. That was right at a year ago. I was flamed beyond belief for using it. Well, I sure as heck wasn't going to dig it all out of there right after doing such a bangup job of prepping and installing it.

So, after a year and about, 10,000 miles of sun, wind, rain, and general weather and elements, that Silicone is in as flawless shape today (just inspected it day before yesterday) as it was when I installed it. There's not one micro-inch of signs of deterioration, separation, cracking, or failing in any way, on either side. It's as pliable as today as it was when I installed it.
Scott

Quote:
Originally Posted by JaminSamin View Post
I resealed the roof cove seam last year. I used 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 4000 UV. So far it's holding up, good thorough prep is the key to a lasting seal.

Lichtsinn.com has a video on roof cove maintenance. They cover in detail what to look for and what caulk they use.
I'm glad you mentioned "Lichtsinn.com". And yes, they do have maintenance videos for all parts of RVs. And one of them is roof sealant and caulking. They specifically state that, if you have "full body paint", to use SILICONE for the roof-to-gutter sealant. If you have other than full body paint, they do recommend other types of sealant. So, my thoughts are, if 3Ts (again, worked very close with Winne and Itasca for decades) and, Lichtsinn (about two blocks from the Winne/Itasca factory) both recommend its use, apparently it must work. I kind-a proved that since it's not leaving that gap anytime soon.

I absolutely REFUSE to put some ugly-a$$ tape on the side of my nice looking, full body painted RV. That roofs been on there for going on 12 years and it's not going anywhere, based on the factory sealant that's still good and, the maintenance/re-seal I've done. I also just completely removed every miniscule bit of sealant from the front and rear caps to the roof and, two vents and, the roof ladder mountings, antenna mountings, and air horn mounting system, and thoroughly scoured those tow joints with alcohol several times. Then I applied Dicor self leveling sealant. Looks outstanding and is ready for another 12 years, with no tape.

Scott
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