Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-16-2012, 02:48 PM   #1
Winnebago Owner
 
navychaps's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bartlett, TN
Posts: 54
Interesting issue with Basement Heatpump

Perhaps someone can enlighten me to what is happening.

When in "electric heat" mode, and the second compressor starts I get an initial amperage of 21/22 amps draw which then slowly creeps up to 31 amps where the power management system shuts down the water heater, second compressoor and slows fan speed. the unit then continues heating on one compressor. This does NOT happen in A/C mode with both compressors running.

2003 Adventurer 33V
__________________
2003 Winne Adventurer, Ford F53 V-10. Toad:1992 S-10, Road Master Falcon 2 Tow bar, Blue Ox Patriot brake system and Protect-a-Tow. Right is right even if no one is doing it; Wrong is wrong even if everyone is doing it--St Augustine of Hippo. Navy AD.
navychaps is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 04:22 PM   #2
Winnebago Master
 
DancinCampers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: On the Road Westward
Posts: 711
I would suggest something is miswired.

This is the way it should act in the cooling mode, not heating mode.
__________________
Dan & Sharon & Kasey (Our Yorkie Puppy (12 Yrs Old) On the Road (2012 Journey 36M, 2006 Jeep Liberty)
USN-Ret ('65-'93) Fulltimers, Class of 2012
DancinCampers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 05:20 PM   #3
Winnie-Wise
 
BFlinn181's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 486
I've never owned a heat pump, but it is my understanding that when the temperature is too cold to efficiently get heat from outside air, the compressor shuts down and all heat is provided by electric heat elements in duct work, only the fan runs, not compressor.
__________________

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
BFlinn181 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 05:30 PM   #4
Winnebago Master
 
Mr_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 560
Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
I've never owned a heat pump, but it is my understanding that when the temperature is too cold to efficiently get heat from outside air, the compressor shuts down and all heat is provided by electric heat elements in duct work, only the fan runs, not compressor.
Not sure about the basement air units but in our MH, if the outside temps get too low it automatically shuts the heat pumps off and switches to the furnace.
Our stiock house heat pump does the same thing.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
Charter Lifetime GS Member, SKP, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '14 CR-V
Mr_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 08:00 PM   #5
Winnebago Master
 
grtharris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Skiatook, OK
Posts: 1,460
Are the outside coils icing up? If they are this will cause the head pressure to increase and increase the amp draw.
__________________
Grant & Pat
2014 Adventurer 35P
2021 Rapid Red 4dr Bronco OBX
grtharris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2012, 10:02 AM   #6
Winnebago Owner
 
navychaps's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bartlett, TN
Posts: 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by DancinCampers View Post
I would suggest something is miswired.

This is the way it should act in the cooling mode, not heating mode.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
I've never owned a heat pump, but it is my understanding that when the temperature is too cold to efficiently get heat from outside air, the compressor shuts down and all heat is provided by electric heat elements in duct work, only the fan runs, not compressor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
Not sure about the basement air units but in our MH, if the outside temps get too low it automatically shuts the heat pumps off and switches to the furnace.
Our stiock house heat pump does the same thing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by grtharris View Post
Are the outside coils icing up? If they are this will cause the head pressure to increase and increase the amp draw.
Dancin--I've never had work done on the unit and it worked fine previously--Thanks

BFlinn181/Mr_D-- No heating elements an my basement unit and outside air temp is well above freezing--Thanks

grtharris-- I will check that and get back with you....
__________________
2003 Winne Adventurer, Ford F53 V-10. Toad:1992 S-10, Road Master Falcon 2 Tow bar, Blue Ox Patriot brake system and Protect-a-Tow. Right is right even if no one is doing it; Wrong is wrong even if everyone is doing it--St Augustine of Hippo. Navy AD.
navychaps is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2012, 10:03 AM   #7
Winnebago Camper
 
Springer45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Boulder CIty NV
Posts: 29
The initial shed is due to being over 30amps. This is why the water pump turns off. Depending on what else is running it sounds like with the Heat pump on with more than a 3 degeree difference between demand and actual temperatures you are exceeding 30 amps. The EMS will shed teh second compressor and reduce fan speed at that time. If you want the heat pump to work with both compressors you will need to reduce the other appliance load. This only happens on shore power since the second compressor is wired outside the ems when running on generator
Springer45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2012, 10:09 AM   #8
Winnebago Owner
 
navychaps's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bartlett, TN
Posts: 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by Springer45 View Post
The initial shed is due to being over 30amps. This is why the water pump turns off. Depending on what else is running it sounds like with the Heat pump on with more than a 3 degeree difference between demand and actual temperatures you are exceeding 30 amps. The EMS will shed teh second compressor and reduce fan speed at that time. If you want the heat pump to work with both compressors you will need to reduce the other appliance load. This only happens on shore power since the second compressor is wired outside the ems when running on generator
Springer, thanks but the issue is that it should only draw 21/22 amps with both compressors running. Even if I turn every other item off in the MH it will still creep up to 31 amps and shed the second compressor. Interesting thing is, when in cooling mode with both compressors running it draws 21/22 amps and stays there...
__________________
2003 Winne Adventurer, Ford F53 V-10. Toad:1992 S-10, Road Master Falcon 2 Tow bar, Blue Ox Patriot brake system and Protect-a-Tow. Right is right even if no one is doing it; Wrong is wrong even if everyone is doing it--St Augustine of Hippo. Navy AD.
navychaps is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2012, 04:32 PM   #9
Winnebago Camper
 
Springer45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Boulder CIty NV
Posts: 29
Intersting. I understnad your explination better now. I assume you have cyceld the A/C compressor 1 switch off with compressor 2 also off and the EMS readout goes down to the normal 1 or 2 amp draw?
Springer45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2012, 05:14 PM   #10
Cat
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 15
Sounds like the freon reversing valve is not allowing the freon to reverse when in heat and blocks off the freon instead,which causes high head pressure which equals more amperage. The valve is electrically controlled but must physically move to change the direction of the freon.
Cat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2012, 05:18 AM   #11
Winnebago Owner
 
navychaps's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bartlett, TN
Posts: 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cat View Post
Sounds like the freon reversing valve is not allowing the freon to reverse when in heat and blocks off the freon instead,which causes high head pressure which equals more amperage. The valve is electrically controlled but must physically move to change the direction of the freon.
Cat, I was thinking that may be the problem....I wonder if there is an "easy" way to access the valve and possibly lubricate/repair the valve.....
__________________
2003 Winne Adventurer, Ford F53 V-10. Toad:1992 S-10, Road Master Falcon 2 Tow bar, Blue Ox Patriot brake system and Protect-a-Tow. Right is right even if no one is doing it; Wrong is wrong even if everyone is doing it--St Augustine of Hippo. Navy AD.
navychaps is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2012, 08:05 AM   #12
Winnebago Camper
 
harv12's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 32
What is the indoor/outdoor temperature when this is happening? With heat pumps if it's too warm either inside or outside there may not be enough air flow to cool the hot refrigerant going through the indoor coil. That maybe why you're seeing the amperage "creep up". Reversing valves are typically in "heating" mode when they're not energized because most manufacturers assume the unit will do more cooling than heating and that keeps the valve moving so it doesn't stay in the same position too long and have sticking issues.
If one were normally in the "cooling" position and not functioning properly and refrigerant was short cycling I wouldn't think you'd see a 10 amp rise. You'd probably notice that your discharge air temperature was much cooler.
Reversing valves use an electronic coil to activate the "slide" mechanism and those do sometimes fail or can have a corrosion issue. They're usually not something that would be "owner" serviceable. I'm not sure how accessible they are on the basement air systems, but if you can, look at the electric coil on the valve for loose or corroded wires {there will only be two wires going to the valve}. If it's possible to safely access the valve while the compressor is running you can feel the copper line that goes to the indoor coil and it would hot {very} while the valve was in the heating mode.
Best of luck and let us know what you find.
__________________
Chris & Marily / Where Ever HaRV Takes Us
'07 Winnebago Vectra 40TD / '09 Tahoe Tailgating
harv12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2012, 10:54 AM   #13
Winnebago Camper
 
RonP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Birmingham,Al
Posts: 14
navychaps, My basement air has been operating with amp readings as you indicated for over a year. It does appear to be more of a problem when I turn on the heat pump when temps are in the 50 degree range.
Perhaps there is not enough cold air to keep the head pressure down.
I do not recall this being a problem prior to a year or so ago so I would
be very interested in any thoughts as to cause.
__________________
RonP

2004 Winnebago Adventurer 37B,W22,Bilstein Shocks,Steer Safe Stabilizer,Surge Guard,Remco Tow Bar,Chevy Tracker Toad,BrakePro,FMCA F354676,UltraPower Upgrade,
RonP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 06:34 AM   #14
Winnebago Owner
 
navychaps's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bartlett, TN
Posts: 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by harv12 View Post
What is the indoor/outdoor temperature when this is happening? With heat pumps if it's too warm either inside or outside there may not be enough air flow to cool the hot refrigerant going through the indoor coil. That maybe why you're seeing the amperage "creep up". Reversing valves are typically in "heating" mode when they're not energized because most manufacturers assume the unit will do more cooling than heating and that keeps the valve moving so it doesn't stay in the same position too long and have sticking issues.
If one were normally in the "cooling" position and not functioning properly and refrigerant was short cycling I wouldn't think you'd see a 10 amp rise. You'd probably notice that your discharge air temperature was much cooler.
Reversing valves use an electronic coil to activate the "slide" mechanism and those do sometimes fail or can have a corrosion issue. They're usually not something that would be "owner" serviceable. I'm not sure how accessible they are on the basement air systems, but if you can, look at the electric coil on the valve for loose or corroded wires {there will only be two wires going to the valve}. If it's possible to safely access the valve while the compressor is running you can feel the copper line that goes to the indoor coil and it would hot {very} while the valve was in the heating mode.
Best of luck and let us know what you find.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonP View Post
navychaps, My basement air has been operating with amp readings as you indicated for over a year. It does appear to be more of a problem when I turn on the heat pump when temps are in the 50 degree range.
Perhaps there is not enough cold air to keep the head pressure down.
I do not recall this being a problem prior to a year or so ago so I would
be very interested in any thoughts as to cause.

Harv, This morning it was about 55 degrees outside and 68 inside when I turned it on to bring it to 75. After about 15 minutes the system hit 31 amps.

Ron, You may be correct but the system has never performed this way previously when I used it in similar temps.

I'll let you know more as I research the issue. Not sure if I will have to pull the unit to get access so it may be a few days before I attack the issue.

Thanks for the great info and suggestions.
__________________
2003 Winne Adventurer, Ford F53 V-10. Toad:1992 S-10, Road Master Falcon 2 Tow bar, Blue Ox Patriot brake system and Protect-a-Tow. Right is right even if no one is doing it; Wrong is wrong even if everyone is doing it--St Augustine of Hippo. Navy AD.
navychaps is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 09:33 AM   #15
Winnebago Master
 
DancinCampers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: On the Road Westward
Posts: 711
navychaps

Is your coach wired for 50 amps?

You may want to check your indoor evap coil for obstructions, as low airflow will cause the head pressure to rise in heat mode.
__________________
Dan & Sharon & Kasey (Our Yorkie Puppy (12 Yrs Old) On the Road (2012 Journey 36M, 2006 Jeep Liberty)
USN-Ret ('65-'93) Fulltimers, Class of 2012
DancinCampers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 10:51 AM   #16
Winnebago Owner
 
navychaps's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bartlett, TN
Posts: 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by DancinCampers View Post
navychaps

Is your coach wired for 50 amps?

You may want to check your indoor evap coil for obstructions, as low airflow will cause the head pressure to rise in heat mode.
Dancin' It's a 30 amp coach. I will check the evap coil! Thanks.
__________________
2003 Winne Adventurer, Ford F53 V-10. Toad:1992 S-10, Road Master Falcon 2 Tow bar, Blue Ox Patriot brake system and Protect-a-Tow. Right is right even if no one is doing it; Wrong is wrong even if everyone is doing it--St Augustine of Hippo. Navy AD.
navychaps is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
6535 Basement Heatpump tennsmith General Maintenance and Repair 7 09-27-2016 04:07 PM
Basement Heatpump / AC Ralph A General Maintenance and Repair 22 11-05-2012 03:01 PM
A couple of interesting observations for 2006 Winnies John_Canfield Winnebago General Discussions 31 12-16-2005 06:07 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Winnebago Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:08 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.