Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-01-2007, 06:15 PM   #1
Winnie-Wise
 
vicsryd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 383
Send a message via Yahoo to vicsryd
I've noticed for a long time on cold mornings there are cold spots on the floor in front of our galley/living area slideout (the only major slideout we have). I understand how in general any floors in a slideout itself are more directly affected by air temperature but I'm talking about the fixed floors in the middle of the coach. I eventually figured out the reason is due in part to Winnebago's design where the cargo bays are attached to the slide instead of fixed to the frame (a true basement) which insulates the floors.

What surprised me is I wasn't able to find any discussions on this subject in the Winnebago forum. So I set out and did my own analysis and found a fix (i.e. I took a few months to ponder and getting around to doing something about it).

Crawling behind the slideout I found the exposed area under "the cold" floor was a potential candidate for foam board insulation because there is a 1.5 inch space between the bottom of the floor and the bottom of the sub-frame the floor rides on. The cargo bays are well below this area when the slide is retracted.

For the most part the area was still clean after two years which indicated to me it's pretty well protected when driving down the road. I asked an acquaintance who runs a RV customization shop if he thought there were any drawbacks to adding foam insulation board here if it was secured well. He couldn't think of any.

As for durability since the foam board has a mylar sheet covering it should hold up pretty well even though it is technically exposed.

For my rig I found I could perfectly fit two pieces of 1.5in thick foam board roughly 22.5in x 37.25in plus two smaller pieces roughly 17.5inx10.25in in between the floor support frame members. After thoroughly cleaning the area I took exact measurements in 1/16in increments to ensure a snug fit, cut the foam with a large non-serrated and very sharp carving knife (keeps pilling to a minimum) and applied a fair amount of Locktite Power-Grab Exterior Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive (Home Depot) to the surfaces.
After the fact this turned out this appears to be a fairly simple solution to a problem that may not be obvious. I can already say on a 40 degree morning the floor is noticeably warmer. Now to see how well it holds up over time.
__________________
Vicki & Jon Pritchard
05 Journey 34H - CAT C7 - Toyota RAV4
3 doxies, 1 chihuahua - WIT, Escapees, FMCA

vicsryd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2007, 06:15 PM   #2
Winnie-Wise
 
vicsryd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 383
Send a message via Yahoo to vicsryd
I've noticed for a long time on cold mornings there are cold spots on the floor in front of our galley/living area slideout (the only major slideout we have). I understand how in general any floors in a slideout itself are more directly affected by air temperature but I'm talking about the fixed floors in the middle of the coach. I eventually figured out the reason is due in part to Winnebago's design where the cargo bays are attached to the slide instead of fixed to the frame (a true basement) which insulates the floors.

What surprised me is I wasn't able to find any discussions on this subject in the Winnebago forum. So I set out and did my own analysis and found a fix (i.e. I took a few months to ponder and getting around to doing something about it).

Crawling behind the slideout I found the exposed area under "the cold" floor was a potential candidate for foam board insulation because there is a 1.5 inch space between the bottom of the floor and the bottom of the sub-frame the floor rides on. The cargo bays are well below this area when the slide is retracted.

For the most part the area was still clean after two years which indicated to me it's pretty well protected when driving down the road. I asked an acquaintance who runs a RV customization shop if he thought there were any drawbacks to adding foam insulation board here if it was secured well. He couldn't think of any.

As for durability since the foam board has a mylar sheet covering it should hold up pretty well even though it is technically exposed.

For my rig I found I could perfectly fit two pieces of 1.5in thick foam board roughly 22.5in x 37.25in plus two smaller pieces roughly 17.5inx10.25in in between the floor support frame members. After thoroughly cleaning the area I took exact measurements in 1/16in increments to ensure a snug fit, cut the foam with a large non-serrated and very sharp carving knife (keeps pilling to a minimum) and applied a fair amount of Locktite Power-Grab Exterior Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive (Home Depot) to the surfaces.
After the fact this turned out this appears to be a fairly simple solution to a problem that may not be obvious. I can already say on a 40 degree morning the floor is noticeably warmer. Now to see how well it holds up over time.
__________________
Vicki & Jon Pritchard
05 Journey 34H - CAT C7 - Toyota RAV4
3 doxies, 1 chihuahua - WIT, Escapees, FMCA

vicsryd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2007, 06:24 PM   #3
Winnebago Master
 
"007"'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 629
Jon, I have been under that area of some friends if they complain about cold floors they now have a simple fix. Should make a difference for even cooling on hot days for AC.
__________________
98KSCA, 99MACA, 03 KSCA-3740- 8.1 Chev-- ALLISON Trans, now in good hands
VISIT the NEWMAR QUICK TIPS & EASYMODS 1 & 2
QUICK TIPS # 3
RV SYSTEMS & APPLIANCES & RECALLS --- TECH INFORMATION
"007" is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2007, 06:46 PM   #4
Winnebago Master
 
Pusherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 812
Jon,

Any benefit to deadening road noise to boot?

Nice solution.
__________________
Don
'07 Winnebago Journey 34H - CAT C7, Koni's, MCU's, SS Bell Crank, Safe-T-Plus
'07 HHR Toad, SMI AFO, Blue OX
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Pusherman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2007, 10:35 AM   #5
Winnie-Wise
 
vicsryd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 383
Send a message via Yahoo to vicsryd
Didn't consider the road noise factor (yet). Since for the 34H floorplan the sofa and galley are already on top of the area with the slide retracted I'd guess it's not going to make much of a difference. But I'll check it out when I'm on the road again Friday.
__________________
Vicki & Jon Pritchard
05 Journey 34H - CAT C7 - Toyota RAV4
3 doxies, 1 chihuahua - WIT, Escapees, FMCA

vicsryd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2007, 05:54 AM   #6
Winnie-Wise
 
vicsryd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 383
Send a message via Yahoo to vicsryd
I could not detect any change/improvement in road noise when the coach was out this weekend.
__________________
Vicki & Jon Pritchard
05 Journey 34H - CAT C7 - Toyota RAV4
3 doxies, 1 chihuahua - WIT, Escapees, FMCA

vicsryd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2007, 04:20 PM   #7
Winnie-Wise
 
Pubtym's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 359
I completed this insulation today. Super idea!

I used a foamboard product from Home Depot made by DOW. It's called Super TUFF-R...coated on both sides with a reinforced poly/aluminum. It's 1 inch thick yet has an R rating of 6.5...higher R than most other 1.5 inch foamboard..and only about a couple of bucks more. (about $15/4'x8' sheet). Very easy to cut and shape. One sheet is enough and you'll have some scraps leftover.

It'll take two tubes of adhesive to do the referenced underfloor area.

I sealed the all edges of the foamboard joint surfaces with GE Silicon II 100% Silicone Sealant (Clear). That'll keep moisture out and add some flexible strength to the edges of the foamboard joints. Again, you'll need two tubes of sealant.

Now to continue..I see the same type exposed surfaces under the driver and passenger seats.
With most leftovers, ..maybe another sheet of foamboard..I'll piece in foamboard in those areas. I believe it should soften some of the front tire road noise and be added heat and cold insulation barriers from radiated road temps...especially road heat.
__________________
Pubtym, 20th SOS "Green Hornet" , Viet Nam 68-69,
2015 Thor A.C.E 29.3
Pubtym is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2007, 05:30 PM   #8
Winnebago Master
 
Pusherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 812
Sorry to ask, but is this insulation fire proof?

Good project!
__________________
Don
'07 Winnebago Journey 34H - CAT C7, Koni's, MCU's, SS Bell Crank, Safe-T-Plus
'07 HHR Toad, SMI AFO, Blue OX
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Pusherman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2007, 06:54 PM   #9
Winnie-Wise
 
Pubtym's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 359
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Pusherman:
Sorry to ask, but is this insulation fire proof?

Good project! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Not "fireproof" but... numerous statments printed/stamped on Super TUFF-R addressing the product meets specified federal building fire code standards...

Have I missed something and a needed concern for "fireproof" requirements in this area?
__________________
Pubtym, 20th SOS "Green Hornet" , Viet Nam 68-69,
2015 Thor A.C.E 29.3
Pubtym is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2007, 06:55 PM   #10
Winnebago Owner
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 195
Sounds like a great idea, I think I'do it to mine should keep me warmer in the winter. I'd be cautious about putting it up front do to engine heat, it will burn.

Also I assume it's not near the exhaust.
__________________
rvcarpenter

Seattle, WA
rvcarpenter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2007, 07:02 PM   #11
Winnie-Wise
 
Pubtym's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 359
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rvcarpenter:
Sounds like a great idea, I think I'do it to mine should keep me warmer in the winter. I'd be cautious about putting it up front do to engine heat, it will burn.

Also I assume it's not near the exhaust. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Not near the exhaust systems.

Portions up front are 18-24 inches away from/to the side of any engine surfaces. Again, this(Super TUFF-R) is not your typical styrofoam...
hense the firecode building stardards certifications....
__________________
Pubtym, 20th SOS "Green Hornet" , Viet Nam 68-69,
2015 Thor A.C.E 29.3
Pubtym is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2007, 09:57 PM   #12
Winnebago Master
 
SCVJeff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Clarita, CA.
Posts: 1,222
Oh Great.. Another weekend project.. My back already hurts.

If you have nothing but money you could also get engine/ generator compartment liner that IS fireproof. It comes in 2 flavors: With & Without sound deadening (the latter is much heavier).
__________________
_______________________________

Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
SCVJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2007, 10:14 PM   #13
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 729
Dynamat Hoodliner would be a good alternative to use around the engine area....lots of us used this for the doghouse insulation.....
FrontRangeRVer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2007, 04:23 AM   #14
Winnie-Wise
 
Pubtym's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 359
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by SCVJeff:
Oh Great.. Another weekend project.. My back already hurts.

If you have nothing but money you could also get engine/ generator compartment liner that IS fireproof. It comes in 2 flavors: With & Without sound deadening (the latter is much heavier). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Better yet....buy a few more stuffed animal toys for your dash...

I too have a bad back. So,I used a mechanic's creeper and adjustable mechanic's wheeled stool.

Total cost of this comfort related project so far...about $30.
__________________
Pubtym, 20th SOS "Green Hornet" , Viet Nam 68-69,
2015 Thor A.C.E 29.3
Pubtym is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2007, 04:38 AM   #15
Winnie-Wise
 
Pubtym's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 359
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FrontRangeRVer:
Dynamat Hoodliner would be a good alternative to use around the engine area....lots of us used this for the doghouse insulation..... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I've already used the Dynamat Hoodliner for the doghouse. Great stuff for the curved surfaces in the doghouse.

I'm looking at using the Super TUFF-R in the overhead/floorboard areas of the driver/pax wheel wells....about 18-24 inches from engine/ doghouse surfaces.
__________________
Pubtym, 20th SOS "Green Hornet" , Viet Nam 68-69,
2015 Thor A.C.E 29.3
Pubtym is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2007, 07:57 AM   #16
Winnie-Wise
 
vicsryd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 383
Send a message via Yahoo to vicsryd
Didn't see the Super TUFF-R product at my Home Depot. Too bad I mised out as it sounds like it is vastly superior and easier to work with too.
__________________
Vicki & Jon Pritchard
05 Journey 34H - CAT C7 - Toyota RAV4
3 doxies, 1 chihuahua - WIT, Escapees, FMCA

vicsryd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2007, 11:06 AM   #17
Winnie-Wise
 
Pubtym's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 359
I continue to pursue added driver-passenger comfort modifications to to my 2006 Itasca 35U. I've read many threads in this forum about
the very poor performance/mechanical reliability of the Dash /AC system....and I have experienced several hot summer trips in my rig with the Dash air blowing acceptable cool air but,....the comfort level of driver and passenger comfort was almost miserable.

After a visual inspection of the under surface/wheel well areas..I begin to see some of the contributing discomfort factors.
Most obvious is the almost total lack of installed heat/cold insulation in front of and beneath the driver/passenger foot and seat areas. My initial conclusion is: there is one heck of a lot of radiated road surface and front tire temperature(hot & cold) affecting the driver and passenger seat areas.

Today, I drove my rig around town and on the Interstate for 30 minutes. Then, I ran a temperature test in the driver and passenger areas. I measured all surface areas mentioned here with a hand held Raytek AutoPro laser gun.

Here's the data...and you draw your own conclusions about why Dash air works so poorly for the driver and passenger.
1.The outside-free air temperature was 71F.
2.The asphalt road temperature was 109F
3.The inner wheel well outer metal surface temperature(12" above front tire) was 105F
4.Inner wheel well outer metal surface temperatures closer to the engine..just before the doghouse..ranged from 130-140F. This is area under your legs and feet.
5.The inside driver side initial carpet surface temperature.. just under the driver legs..was 102F.
6.The inside driver side initial carpet surface temperature.. just under the driver's accelerator pedal..was 97F.
7.The inside passenger side carpet mat/protector surface temperature.. just under the passenger's legs was 95-90F. Just slightly forward of the passenger's foot area...carpet surface temp was 95-100?
8.With the doghouse's inside already insulated with Dynamat, the carpet surface temerature at center of doghouse was 86F.
9.The inside initial carpet surface temperature.. 2" just behind the rear edge of the doghouse was 95F.

OK...Here are the thinker questions:
A. You are cruising along and it's 90F outside. You decide to turn on the Dash A/C to "Max" cool. Why does your Dash air have reduced efficiency even though the fan speed is at maximum?

B. What are some creative low cost-low labor solutions to enhance the cooling effect of the Dash A/C?
__________________
Pubtym, 20th SOS "Green Hornet" , Viet Nam 68-69,
2015 Thor A.C.E 29.3
Pubtym is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2007, 10:25 PM   #18
Winnebago Master
 
SCVJeff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Clarita, CA.
Posts: 1,222
I wonder how robust Dynamat (or equiv.) would be as a carpet pad replacement?

Somewhere in my office, is a sample box of sound & heat insulation, both rigid and blanket pads. I'll see if I can find it and look at what might be useful.
__________________
_______________________________

Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
SCVJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2007, 05:54 AM   #19
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Socorro, NM (until ?)
Posts: 58
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by vicsryd:
Didn't see the Super TUFF-R product at my Home Depot... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

You should be able to get them to order in some for you. Even just a few
Lorna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2007, 05:54 AM   #20
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Socorro, NM (until ?)
Posts: 58
Sorry... for some reason my previous post double posted. Had that same problem a few days ago... only hit button once.
Lorna is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Heated Floors rtv Plumbing | Systems and Fixtures 7 01-07-2014 07:51 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Winnebago Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:18 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×