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Old 07-15-2014, 12:10 AM   #1
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HWH Jacks won't retract

I just went to move my Itasca 2004 Sunrise and the HWH jack system won't come up. My "JACKS DOWN" warning light is off and the HWH control panel won't turn on. If I operate the front slide switch, the warning light comes on and if I press the on switch on the jack control panel while operating the slide switch, it will light up but goes off again when I stop pressing the slide switch. The emergency brake and brake indicator light are both on. Any ideas where to look?
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:03 AM   #2
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My HWH jack system has an inline fuse ; 40 amp ; within a foot of the pump. I had erratic operation and this is what the fuse looked like.
Full manuals available on line from HWH. If you don't have one.
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:33 AM   #3
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Look in your control box for signs of electrical wiring meltdowns. My box fried itself because the right rear jack did not retract and seat completely and the control box did not time itself out so it overheated. Had to send the box back to Iowa, HWH for rebuild, took 3 wks. This happened last month.
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:23 PM   #4
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Holly Cow Barry, what do you think could have been the cause of the control box meltdown and did you notice any weird jack behavior before it went south on ya? Thank you in advance.
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:33 AM   #5
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Ron, I was traveling down a very bumpy section of freeway under construction which was shaking everything and the touch pad lit up and dinged indicating a jack down. This happens occasionally and you press "store" and it will usually pull it back up and shut off. It only has to drop a tad to open the circuit. I tried to retract it but the light kept blinking and the bell kept dinging and it never shut off. I couldn't even shut the system off w/out shutting the ignition down. I had 40 mi. to get home so had to listen to it. We think what happened, is that the rough road caused the jack to unseat and also caused a loose wire condition at the jack. The system kept trying to retract and it did not time itself out and it overhead two large wires in the control box. After having the box rebuilt and the mech. unplugging and replugging the wires at the jack, everything has been working as it should.
Barry & Sue Miller("extended" RVer's, 6 mos + per/year) combined trips.
04 Journey 39K, C-7, 330 hp, towing: 02 Dakota 4X or 2013 Ford Edge AWD, Aero 5050XL, ReadyBrake.
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:38 AM   #6
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Welcome to the forum.
I just replaced that fuse with a 40 amp auto reset relay and rewired wire leads to mount.
Found relay at Auto Zone.
Same picture of corrosion.
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:31 AM   #7
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this is a generalization of the problem, my comments are not directed at any of the posters. apology beforehand.
this is normally what happens.
its kind of a cascade effect. the operator fails to recognize that there is a problem with one jack not retracting. they ignore the alarm, or the light on the touch panel. this failure takes a period of time, it doesnt happen all at once.
first the jack fails to retract fully. this causes the control box to hold all the solenoids open the full retract time. when the jack still does not retract, the control box holds all the solenoid open the full retract time again. repeatedly doing this will eventually short out the corresponding solenoid. this will also eventually cause the control box to overheat, and short out.
being aware of how your system works, and getting repairs done promptly can prevent the impending larger expense.
the best repair for this is first to replace or have the cylinder rebuilt promptly.
second, if one solenoid has shorted, it will have a 000.0 ohm reading. check all four.
as a rule, i replace all four solenoids. overheated solenoids are quick to short out.
this is a preventive measure based on my experience only. it is not hwh policy.
if your control box has burned out, there is a distinctive smell, and there may also be visible burnt traces. it so, it should also be replaced. sometimes, a relay burns out, and the box just quits working. not any better. it still needs replacing.
the jack not retracting can cause more than one solenoid to be marginally operationable. again, my opinion only, based on experience.
i have performed this repair many times, and the root cause is the operator not recognizing that there is a problem, with the jack down light not going off, and shutting the system off.
this does not happen in every case.
when a solenoid quits working. sometimes, it will develop an open wire, it does not short out. there is difference between an open wire, and a direct short. with an open wire, the massive failure doesnt occur.
but in every case, early recognition of the problem, and prompt repair is the key to preventing a more extensive problem, and cost.
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