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Old 10-15-2020, 04:56 PM   #21
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Ground

I know you checked the ground. Mine did something similar out of the blue when getting to camp ground. After screwing around for two hours I was laying on the ground staring at the control box behind the plexiglass.....just before I gave up I gently hit the ground (center of control panel) wire with my screwdriver and noticed it looked lose. Tightened it and boom lights started flashing.

Not sure if this helped
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Old 10-16-2020, 06:49 AM   #22
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Well FYI, my friend that figured this out for me, took a look at a picture of your Kwikee board, and wrote:

"It looks like his model is an automatic version of the same board.
When I look at the back of his board I see the same 4 pin harness.
What we did was cut the blue wire(brake) 2 inches up from the plug on the harness and connected the blue wire of the plug to the black wire(gnd) causing the brakes to look always on, to the board.
He should obviously verify the wires in the plug are tight and not broken first."

His comment about checking for loose connections or broken wires, is related to our next discovery that it was a poor connection on the red power wire coming out of the board that was the final step to functionality on mine.
Remember too, that bypassing the brake on safety test means if you forget, and start to move the unit, you will likely be stuck somewhere with bent rams in the down position, saying many bad words. I wasn't worried about that because my GM based Workhorse chassis sets the break automatically.
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Old 10-16-2020, 07:10 AM   #23
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Thanks! Can't wait to check that connection and jumper if necessary. I'll let you know how it goes. We've always been diligent with written pre-move and pre-tow checklists, and "jacks up" is part of that list.
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Old 10-18-2020, 10:08 PM   #24
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Went camping over the weekend. The jacks and slides work as long as the engine is running. Camping on grass, I thought I would crawl under the front of the rig and check the 5 fuses behind the clear plexiglass. Put the slides out, but not the jacks. I pulled the 4 top 15A fuses and they tested good. Pulled the 3 lower 5A fuses and they were also good. There's about a 6 inch long ground wire behind the plexiglass. I made sure that the screws on the ends were tight. Went to leave today, and the control panel on the dash will not turn on, with the engine running. I ran a separate ground wire to the 6 inch ground, and that didn't do anything either. I backed out the 1/4 inch nuts on all four of the slide solenoid valves, and three of us managed to push the small bedroom slide in. Then I found two 13/16 wrenches and two of us cranked the readybolts in and after a couple of hours we had the big slide in. Glad to be home. After all this, I'll call my RV repair guy and give him some business. If he tells me what the hell happened, I'll post it. Otherwise, I'll just be happy.
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Old 10-28-2020, 10:21 PM   #25
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Bummer!

I think before I called a mechanic, I would look at the back of your HWH Touch Panel and check for any visual problems. You can do a search for this board and get a used one, but first I would find out what HWH charges, because it might be just a few dollars more.

Note: I'm not suggesting this is the source of your problem unless you see visual circuit board damage.
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Old 10-29-2020, 08:00 AM   #26
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For the record, I run my jacks with the engine running anyway, to reduce battery draw down.
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Old 10-29-2020, 10:08 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick 99037 View Post
For the record, I run my jacks with the engine running anyway, to reduce battery draw down.
I've not looked at the manual for this specific RV but I also have never seen one that did not recommend running the engine. Seems like it would be a pretty obvious thing for the accessory functions of the switch to not have the same things attached like the hydraulic pump.
Thinking of the ignition as a simple on/off type thing is really going way back in history.
Bottomline question for me would be to ask if the manual doesn't recommend having the engine running?
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