How I fixed a dead 110 outlet on the kitchen wall.
This is for a Winnebago 2013 Journey 36M purchased used.
My wife reported that the outlet on the kitchen wall stopped working.
First was testing the outlet and it had a strange 8 or 9 volts of AC but if I put a load on it (night light) it had zero, so I assumed a loose connection.
First I pulled the outlet. These are a variety of hollow wall outlets that server as their own box. There are two plastic flanges at either end that swing out when tightened and should swing in when loosened if you hold the outlet to the wall when loosening them. One did not so I had to back the screw out all the way, dropping the little plastic flange into the wall, which fortunately is a foam core and I could fish it out.
Next I tested the wire coming to the outlet with a volt meter and they had low voltage too, meaning the problem was upstream.
The wiring diagram provided by Winnebago doesn't make clear it how these outlets are ordered but they are clearly all on the same circuit and this was proved out by using the circuit breaker and testing the voltage. While I was at it I noted and document on the breaker box door other things I found on this circuit.
I decide to start with the outlet in the circuit closes to the slide junction box.
The first thing I discovered is that Winnebago decide it would be better to save two inches of wire instead of making it easy to pull this receptacle.
After pulling it I discovered that this was clearly the source of the problem. You can see a hot and a ground wire floating loose, they were probably barely touching before I tugged the outlet out.
You can also see that this outlet distributes power to two other locations probably, the bad outlet on the wall and the other outlet in the cabinet (facing down).
Finally you can see in the picture that the wires are barely pressed into the contacts. Since I had to press two pairs of wire in and I wanted to make sure it was good and tight I stripped the top two set of wires and pressed them in until they were firmly against the first set which were already stripped and pressed all the way down. The result is wires well below the top of the contact slots.
After this it was just a matter of energizing the system and testing for voltage. Everything worked fine.
My observations are that although probably adequate I would rather have outlets with screwed on terminals and I would rather have a junction box used if the power is distributed from an outlet to two other locations.
It should also be mentioned that there appears to have been two rework in this box given the three cuts in the insulation, one from the original install and two from rework, so this may not have been Winnebago factory work.
I may setup as a future project to pull and check all of my 110 outlets and I may also seek a better type of outlet for high load locations like the kitchen.
I hope this helps someone with a similar issue.
Ed
__________________
2013 Winnebago Journey 36M Diesel Pusher.
1987 FJ60 Land Cruiser Towed, Blue Ox Tow Bar, SMI Air Force One, 2000 Watts Solar.
This is for a Winnebago 2013 Journey 36M purchased used.
My wife reported that the outlet on the kitchen wall stopped working.
First was testing the outlet and it had a strange 8 or 9 volts of AC but if I put a load on it (night light) it had zero, so I assumed a loose connection.
First I pulled the outlet. These are a variety of hollow wall outlets that server as their own box. There are two plastic flanges at either end that swing out when tightened and should swing in when loosened if you hold the outlet to the wall when loosening them. One did not so I had to back the screw out all the way, dropping the little plastic flange into the wall, which fortunately is a foam core and I could fish it out.
Next I tested the wire coming to the outlet with a volt meter and they had low voltage too, meaning the problem was upstream.
The wiring diagram provided by Winnebago doesn't make clear it how these outlets are ordered but they are clearly all on the same circuit and this was proved out by using the circuit breaker and testing the voltage. While I was at it I noted and document on the breaker box door other things I found on this circuit.
I decide to start with the outlet in the circuit closes to the slide junction box.
The first thing I discovered is that Winnebago decide it would be better to save two inches of wire instead of making it easy to pull this receptacle.
After pulling it I discovered that this was clearly the source of the problem. You can see a hot and a ground wire floating loose, they were probably barely touching before I tugged the outlet out.
You can also see that this outlet distributes power to two other locations probably, the bad outlet on the wall and the other outlet in the cabinet (facing down).
Finally you can see in the picture that the wires are barely pressed into the contacts. Since I had to press two pairs of wire in and I wanted to make sure it was good and tight I stripped the top two set of wires and pressed them in until they were firmly against the first set which were already stripped and pressed all the way down. The result is wires well below the top of the contact slots.
After this it was just a matter of energizing the system and testing for voltage. Everything worked fine.
My observations are that although probably adequate I would rather have outlets with screwed on terminals and I would rather have a junction box used if the power is distributed from an outlet to two other locations.
It should also be mentioned that there appears to have been two rework in this box given the three cuts in the insulation, one from the original install and two from rework, so this may not have been Winnebago factory work.
I may setup as a future project to pull and check all of my 110 outlets and I may also seek a better type of outlet for high load locations like the kitchen.
I hope this helps someone with a similar issue.
Ed
Those are Hubbell Wirecon receptacles. If installed correctly they work well, in fact in a vibration prone environment like the motor home, may be better than screw type that may vibrate loose. For correct installation, the installation tool should be used. An alternate method is on page 18.
Excellent information. It fills out the post nicely.
The screw type would tend to vibrate out so these probably are best if properly installed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Hilley
Those are Hubbell Wirecon receptacles. If installed correctly they work well, in fact in a vibration prone environment like the motor home, may be better than screw type that may vibrate loose. For correct installation, the installation tool should be used. An alternate method is on page 18.
IDC type connection material, especially when required to handle high current, MUST be rugged and is composed of a higher quality metal mix. BUT...ICD connectors don't take kindly to repeated insertions and extractions of the wire. In fact, 3 is one too many in my book.
IDC = Insulation Displacement Connector
__________________
'02 Winnebago Journey DL, DSDP, 36' of fun.
This is for a Winnebago 2013 Journey 36M purchased used.
My wife reported that the outlet on the kitchen wall stopped working.
First was testing the outlet and it had a strange 8 or 9 volts of AC but if I put a load on it (night light) it had zero, so I assumed a loose connection.
First I pulled the outlet. These are a variety of hollow wall outlets that server as their own box. There are two plastic flanges at either end that swing out when tightened and should swing in when loosened if you hold the outlet to the wall when loosening them. One did not so I had to back the screw out all the way, dropping the little plastic flange into the wall, which fortunately is a foam core and I could fish it out.
Next I tested the wire coming to the outlet with a volt meter and they had low voltage too, meaning the problem was upstream.
The wiring diagram provided by Winnebago doesn't make clear it how these outlets are ordered but they are clearly all on the same circuit and this was proved out by using the circuit breaker and testing the voltage. While I was at it I noted and document on the breaker box door other things I found on this circuit.
I decide to start with the outlet in the circuit closes to the slide junction box.
The first thing I discovered is that Winnebago decide it would be better to save two inches of wire instead of making it easy to pull this receptacle.
After pulling it I discovered that this was clearly the source of the problem. You can see a hot and a ground wire floating loose, they were probably barely touching before I tugged the outlet out.
You can also see that this outlet distributes power to two other locations probably, the bad outlet on the wall and the other outlet in the cabinet (facing down).
Finally you can see in the picture that the wires are barely pressed into the contacts. Since I had to press two pairs of wire in and I wanted to make sure it was good and tight I stripped the top two set of wires and pressed them in until they were firmly against the first set which were already stripped and pressed all the way down. The result is wires well below the top of the contact slots.
After this it was just a matter of energizing the system and testing for voltage. Everything worked fine.
My observations are that although probably adequate I would rather have outlets with screwed on terminals and I would rather have a junction box used if the power is distributed from an outlet to two other locations.
It should also be mentioned that there appears to have been two rework in this box given the three cuts in the insulation, one from the original install and two from rework, so this may not have been Winnebago factory work.
I may setup as a future project to pull and check all of my 110 outlets and I may also seek a better type of outlet for high load locations like the kitchen.
I hope this helps someone with a similar issue.
Ed
I am not an electrician, but that outlet does not look safe. I'm sure it is, but I do not like the way it is designed. I have to agree with a prior post that I like the screw-type terminals better. A little loctite would fix those screws from falling out.
__________________
John Rossi
2013 Itasca Sunstar 26HE
Firestone Airbags, Hellwig front/rear Anti-Sway Bars,
Rear Trac Bar, Safe-T-Plus, and 480 watt solar system.
I am not a fan of the push in style connectors, I have had more than one in a house not work properly causing intermittent opens. I will have to pull a couple in my RV and see what is in there. I can pretty well guess.
I had an old Airstream that had screw terminals and none of those connections were loose even after 40 years.
Aaron
__________________
2014 Itasca Meridian 34B
2016 Coachmen Concord 300DS For Sale
2015 Focus Hybrid following along
I'll buy a new one and rework it. Any advice on slicing in more wire to make it more workable?
Use a short length of wire, at least 8", and crimp junction with the old wiring. I'd use a high quality insulation wrapped over them and bend them so the Neutral and Ground junctions are nowhere near the Hot lead.
Because the ICD connections in the old electrical box have probably been abused with repeated insertions and extractions, I'd agree with the need for buying a new slim line box.
__________________
'02 Winnebago Journey DL, DSDP, 36' of fun.
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