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Old 11-13-2004, 04:14 PM   #21
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Yes, one should wipe clean the area that the tape will bond too. I used a parts cleaner because of the fast dry time. Just be sure to have the tape aligned properly when installing. Once it contacts the roof surface it's not moving nor being removed.

This stuff is the best product I've come across, been on approx. two years now and looks the same now as it did when applied. Can't go wrong. The factory should use this tape and we could all forget having roof leaks.
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Old 11-14-2004, 04:29 AM   #22
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Great stuff everybody. Looks like I have a project ahead of me.
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Old 11-14-2004, 05:35 AM   #23
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Joe,
Did you use one lenght for each side or is it easier to cut into shorter sections and overlap..
Thanks,
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Old 11-14-2004, 06:09 AM   #24
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Tom,

I used one continuous length for each side of the motorhome. Before cutting the tape, I measured the length of the raingutter seam that I'd be taping. Measure out that length of tape, plus a foot or two for safty, and reroll it for cutting. Since the tape has a peel-off backing, you can reroll it easily.

I then unroll the 4" wide roll as I feed it through the cutter block, and each of my kids rerolled the now 2" wide tape into rolls. It's pretty easy to work with the continous roll when applying it. If you are working on a ladder, you'll just apply a couple feet of tape, then set the roll on the roof to move the ladder. It will look nice that way rather than trying to piece it.

Incidently, the reason not to cut the whole roll is that if you cut enough to tape a 35-39 foot motorhome, you'll have enough still at 4" wide to tape the front cap to roof joint.

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Old 11-14-2004, 06:48 AM   #25
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Thanks Joe
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Old 11-14-2004, 03:14 PM   #26
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I am thinking of using Eternabond tape along the edges of my roof....can this be applied in 3 to 4 foot strip lenghts to make it easier to handle...or is there something that would make this a no no....other than cosmetic ,,,not having the seams. Thanks
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Old 11-14-2004, 03:36 PM   #27
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Okie:
... can this be applied in 3 to 4 foot strip lenghts to make it easier to handle... <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Okie, I think the follow up posts on this will state that you can lay the EtBnd tape by sticking the leading edge of the tape on the surface to be sealed and then continuing to lay out the tape and pulling the backing off from under the strip as you go.
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Old 11-15-2004, 07:40 AM   #28
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When JOE-K and I did my rig, I wanted to do both the front and rear end caps also. We found out that the eternalbond will not stick to the caulking that Winne puts on those areas. The front cap's caulking wasnt as wide as the rear caulking, so we were able to cover over the caulking with the tape. The rear caulking was in good shape so we didnt mess with it. When it comes time to put the eternalbond on the back cap, I will have to cut some of the excess caulking off so it isnt too wide for the 4" eternalbond.
By the way, I had my rig into the dealer the other week and was talking to the body man about a problem I was having. He looked up at the tape and asked if I had put that on or what. I told him how we have been talking about this on this site and how the roofs were a problem for Winnie. He said he has seen some roofs come loose and the wind gets under it and rips it up. He thought maybe Winnie had finally got smart and put the tape on it. I said Nope, they still havent gotten smart, even though they should!!!!!
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Old 11-16-2004, 06:32 PM   #29
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This is good stuff.

Winnebago, if your listening it's time to fix the roof issues once and for all.
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Old 11-17-2004, 03:27 PM   #30
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Since Eternabond clearly states it won't stick to silicone, did anyone remove any of the caulk already in the roof edge before applying the tape?

Also, Eternabond says use non-chlorine brake cleaner as surface prep. I used that before applying a small patch on my roof, and it does stick well.
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Old 11-17-2004, 04:49 PM   #31
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When I did the roof on our Horizon it was beginning to need re-caulking. I found no problem taking a painter's tool (5in1??) and cutting the caulk off the joint between the roof and the gutter. I then cleaned the area with Windex and a terry cloth towel. I went so far as to use a thin blade covered with the towel and clean between the fiberglass and the j-channel edge. Just slide it between them and and scrub it back and forth several times.
I then re-caulked with the stuff I bought at the factory in Forest City, pushing the fiberglass in and laying the caulk in the crack. When the fiberglass was released, it left a nice neat clean caulked joint. I then used a wet finger and smoothed the caulk that pushed out the top. Just like you would do if you were caulking a window in your house for paint.
When the caulk dried, I cleaned the area again with Windex and applied the EB. I cut it into 2 inch strips and let it sit in the rain gutter and lap up over the joint onto the edge of the roof. Pressed it down and rubbed it out. With the new caulk and the EB I figure I am set for the life of the coach.
HOWEVER... I did not do the front and rear cap roof joints. There is some sore of rubber or silicon joint a couple of inches wide. This stuff looks like it was poured on. (Is this the "self leveling" caulk I hear about?) This stuff is in as good a shape as the day the coach was bought and frankly I did not want to spend a couple of days taking it off down to the fiberglass just to apply the EB. I think the 4' wide EB would span it in most places, but the actual stuck area would only be an inch or less on either side of the joint.
I have no idea how this SL caulk stuff could be removed easily but it looks like a major undertaking to me.
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Old 11-18-2004, 05:54 AM   #32
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by doc:
I have no idea how this SL caulk stuff could be removed easily but it looks like a major undertaking to me. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The SL caulk came off really easy when I used a product called Acrysol made by Kent Industries. I is an automotive solvant to clean painted surfaces prior to painting. Got it at my local Winn Dealer. It did not disolve the caulk but seem to get it to release from the fiberglass.
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Old 11-18-2004, 06:18 AM   #33
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Hello All : Looking at a 1999 winnebago adventurer 37G. Drove it Tue. When we got back went up on the roof and looked it over,roof is white. Are the roofs white from factory? Roof looked good but will need some re calking before to long. If we get this one will go the Eternabond way on the side roof joints. Other wise roof looked good and clean. Has one new ac cover,other covers look good. No leaks found from inside.Owner had a leak at drivers door year ago and dealer fix with no damage to inside.

TKS Jim Dillard
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Old 11-18-2004, 08:06 AM   #34
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Doc:

You and others refer to a 'rain-gutter.' Are you referring to the gutter-like strip on the curb side that the awning fabric slides into? I have a '97 Adventurer and the roof edge disappears into that little J channel that is about 1/2" tall..there is no other gutter, at least not on the left side.
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Old 11-18-2004, 09:19 AM   #35
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smlranger,

I think we're referring to the same thing. The gutter is an aluminum extrusion, that the roof is contained behind, and it does have the slot in it that the awning slides into. The water runs off the roof, into the gutter and will come out each of the open ends.

In this picture I posted earlier, the eternabond goes down inside the gutter, then up over the caulked joint where the roof tucks behind the top of the gutter extrusion.

Catch a rest,

To answer your question: Yes, the factory fiberglass roof's are white.

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Old 11-18-2004, 01:52 PM   #36
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I'm not sure how your coach is set up, but we have an actual gutter about a half inch or a little wider at the bottom that runs the length of the coach on both sides of our Horizon. Actually I guess from front cap joint to the rear cap joint. This gutter is made of aluminum and the roof panel sits inside another channelon the coach side of the gutter. What you actually see is a gutter with the roof panes stopping about 3/4 of inch up from the bottom of the rain gutter. This is where the caulk joint is, with about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of panel turned down behind the rain gutter into a channel you can only see the front edge of. Imagine a "W" with flat bottom. The left side carries water and the right side has the fiberglass roof panel turned down into it and the caulk joint is between the peak in the middle of the W and the roof panel.
I just set the EB edge on the bottom of the left (rain channel and let it go up 2 inches over the center peak of the W and lat onto the roof panel about an inch or so, covering the caulk joint, with is less than an eighth of an inch wide.
Sounds complicated trying to describe W/O photo, but I don't know how to do a photo here.
Hope this helps.
doc

on edit: dang, JoeK has an excellent photo and I just missed it scrolling down
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Old 05-29-2006, 11:48 AM   #37
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I just used the Eternabond roof tape to repair my seam. I didn't use the onestep because it doesn't come in the same color as my RV. I used the webseal tape with the UV protectant paint. I took the paint to be tinted the color of my RV. I had the side of the RV scanned to get the same color. The teck scanned it then went in and mixed the paint. He had to add additional tint (yellow) to get the exact color. It looks great. You would think it was made that way. I will not have to worry about annual seam maintenance for quite sometime.
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Old 05-29-2006, 12:11 PM   #38
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Welcome to the forum and GOOD JOB on your roof repair!!
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Old 05-29-2006, 02:33 PM   #39
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A company called new materials has 2" rolls of Eternabond for about $23.00 web site is www.bestmaterials.com
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Old 05-29-2006, 08:21 PM   #40
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Fellows, thanks for the best information ever received on this topic. I just went to www.bestmaterials.com and ordered two 2" 50' rolls. You made my day!
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