Eternabond ???

Nutimik63 · 04-02-2007, 10:32 AM

I have just reviewed a number of threads in which there seems to be a 100% support of the use of permabond for the roof edge seam on a Winnebago fiberglass roof (2000 Advent.) but in a recent conversation with a Winnebago service person they say no. Is their response political answer or is there a real reason not to use eternabond?
Brian

Nutimik63 · 04-02-2007, 10:32 AM

I have just reviewed a number of threads in which there seems to be a 100% support of the use of permabond for the roof edge seam on a Winnebago fiberglass roof (2000 Advent.) but in a recent conversation with a Winnebago service person they say no. Is their response political answer or is there a real reason not to use eternabond?
Brian

ISLAPP · 04-02-2007, 10:51 AM

If you call Winnebago and ask them if you should use Eternalbond on the roof, of course they will say no. Because if they said yes, then you would ask them why they didnt put it on for you in the first place!! I would be very curious why that service person said not to use it. I had a bodyman from a dealership who commented on my eternalbond job as something Winnebago should have done at the plant!! He has seen too many roof's that seperated. I see no reason NOT to use it. I have had mine on for a couple of years now and it is holding up just fine and I am not worried about leaking. Can't say the same for a roof that doesnt have the eternal bond on it!!
Mike

smlranger · 04-02-2007, 10:55 AM

I agree with Mike. I put Eternabond on my roof seam when we bought this coach in 2005. I check it whenever I'm cleaning the roof and it is absolutely stuck tight. I can't see any reason why it would not be a better solution than periodic re-caulking of that seam.

FrontRangeRVer · 04-02-2007, 11:25 AM

Well, I am not in that !00% of eternabond users. There is no way I am putting that stuff on my roof.

Use the self leveling sealant that Winnebago uses, and you will be able to re-sell your motorhome when it comes time to.

Jim Bob · 04-02-2007, 12:19 PM

I have posted pictures of the job I did on my 2000 Horizon on this site. It looks just as good today as when I put it on and looks much better than any calk job I have seen. To me it is a one time soltion to a problem instead of a yearly maintenance. To each his own but I like it, for what it's worth.

AFChap · 04-02-2007, 01:32 PM

I have looked at Jim Bob's pics, and have thought about Eternabond, but have not done it. After looking at his pics and looking at my coach, I cannot "see" where he brought the bottom edge of the tape to. It seems the only way to do it would be to come over the gutter, but I can't see how that would work on my rig.

I suspect Winnebago's objection would be that you cannot truly inspect the seam with the Eternabond in place. If the tape is truly secured in the "v" in the gutter it would presumably be ok, but I would guess Winnebago would say you could not truly know "for sure."

ISLAPP · 04-02-2007, 03:51 PM

Paul, the Eternalbond doesn't come "over" the gutter. It goes "in" to the gutter.If you look at how the gutter is on now, you will see the caulking at the top lip of the gutter where it attaches to the side of the roof. That is the area that is prone to leaking or that needs to have the caulking repaired from time to time. So the Eternalbond goes over that caulking and "sticks" the gutter to the side of the roof better. Make sense?
Mike

Shuffster · 04-02-2007, 06:12 PM

I chose to replace the original seam caulk with 3M 5200. It has a tenacious adhesive quality. So far so good. I have had good luck with this product on boats. As easy as it was to strip out the old and re-caulk, I couldn't get exited about any other product. Available at Home Depot for $8.99 tube.

AFChap · 04-02-2007, 06:30 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">the Eternalbond doesn't come "over" the gutter. It goes "in" to the gutter </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I'll look at mine again ...have appointment on Wednesday to have it re-done as I checked it awhile back and could tell it needs to be re-done. What I recall is caulking basically "in" the gutter rather than just at the top lip. If the caulking is "in" the gutter, I don't see much for the Eternabond to stick to unless it comes over the outside of the gutter.

The factory re-did mine the last time it was done, and it looks like they used clear silicone, which I thought was NOT to be used.

FrontRangeRVer · 04-02-2007, 08:31 PM

Whats amazing is that the fiberglas roof edge comes down about an inch over the edge of the sidewall, and the awning railing covers that area up. The caulk line you guys are talking about covers up nothing except about 1/2" ABOVE the actual seam...so what you are caulking is the awning rail...thats it....definately NOT the seam (which is 1/2" below the caulk line) I have no idea what you guys are etenabonding...except the gutter rail...it sure isn't the seam for the roof/sidwall.

There is absolutely no way for water to get under the overlaped roof edge and into the sidewall....Physically impossible...unless water goes UP instead of down.

All the curved fiberglass on the outside edges is not attached except by bending it down and over the sidwalls and screwing on the gutter railing.

I would love to actually hear of a leak that happened due to the caulking the awning rail....

Jim Bob · 04-03-2007, 02:42 AM

I first read about this topic on this site and after inspecting the seam by pushing in with my thumb just above the gutter I saw how the fiberglass "flexed" in away from the gutter opening a gap. Then I went to the dealer and looked at a cut-away section of the aluminum gutter.I agree with FrontRanger about the construction and that water would have a hard time getting behind the seam to the sidewall. But I have seen delamination on some older Journeys at the rear of the sidewall in line with the rear cap. Water MAY run to the rear of the coach behind the seam and find its way down where the end cap meets the roof if the end cap calk also is bad too. Also the issue of what keeps the roof from coming out from behind the gutter was posted here on this site. That is part of the reason I decided to use eternabond tape. It was reported the "skin" has come out from behind the gutter while driving and wind pulled the skin of the roof loose. Eternabond realy holds the seam together and will flex with the coach. Again the options are out there and I like this one. Happy Camping!!

Izzyblueye · 04-03-2007, 03:39 AM

I wonder why Winnie makes such a point of inspecting the roof seam every 6 months if they are so bullet proof? I have a friend with an 01 adventurer that developed a seam leak and it ruined his ceiling material. I have enterbond on mine and am glad I did it. He wishes he had done it now.

FrontRangeRVer · 04-03-2007, 06:40 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jim Bob:
I first read about this topic on this site and after inspecting the seam by pushing in with my thumb just above the gutter I saw how the fiberglass "flexed" in away from the gutter opening a gap. Then I went to the dealer and looked at a cut-away section of the aluminum gutter.I agree with FrontRanger about the construction and that water would have a hard time getting behind the seam to the sidewall. But I have seen delamination on some older Journeys at the rear of the sidewall in line with the rear cap. Water MAY run to the rear of the coach behind the seam and find its way down where the end cap meets the roof if the end cap calk also is bad too. Also the issue of what keeps the roof from coming out from behind the gutter was posted here on this site. That is part of the reason I decided to use eternabond tape. It was reported the "skin" has come out from behind the gutter while driving and wind pulled the skin of the roof loose. Eternabond realy holds the seam together and will flex with the coach. Again the options are out there and I like this one. Happy Camping!!

</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

This is a good post, and I can see where the water eventually could work its way back to the seam on the rear cap as you drive and air moves the moisture. I also believe that Winnie requires the caulk along the gutter rail to "hold" the roof edge to the gutter and the sidewall....

CWHTRAINS · 04-03-2007, 07:40 AM

Is there somewhere posted some good photos of how to check this seam? Are we supposed to check where the roof meets up with the gutter ? In others words, what and how are we supposed to check? I am confused about what to be looking at.

Trek-Cyclist · 04-03-2007, 07:47 AM

Push in on the side of the roof where it meets the Rain gutter. If the roof edge pushes in leaving a air gap between the roof and the gutter you need to re-caulk. You can do this by using a high ladder or from the roof. I prefer doing it from the roof you can see better looking down on the seam.

smlranger · 04-03-2007, 07:54 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by CWHTRAINS:
Is there somewhere posted some good photos of how to check this seam? Are we supposed to check where the roof meets up with the gutter ? In others words, what and how are we supposed to check? I am confused about what to be looking at. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Might want to do search on 'roof seam.' I seem to remember someone posting a pic showing how you press on the roof radius near the gutter and see if the seam opens up. Joe-K has some great photos and explanation of the tape install.

Regarding the potential for leaks and damage to the wall...we bought a used '97 Adventurer that developed a rather large area of exterior skin delamination. I was a motorhome newby at the time and did not know to check that seam. When I did, the caulk had released for the entire length of the seam. I could find no other sources of water entry so I believe water can work its way into that seam and do damage. Perhaps it is a wicking action.

Thudman · 04-03-2007, 08:14 AM

I'd rather buy a used Winny with Eternabond, than without. I had a MASSIVE water leak above the driver's side, caused by seam separation (at 6 months). I did the Eternabond nearly a year ago and am glad I did. Washed the rig a few days ago & checked the stuff----still in great shape! IMHO, Eternabond is definitely worthwhile. And Winny should do something similar at production. A six month inspection requirement is absurd. Only downside I see is matching full body paint colors.

Thudman

ISLAPP · 04-03-2007, 10:17 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Thudman:
And Winny should do something similar at production. A six month inspection requirement is absurd. Only downside I see is matching full body paint colors.

Thudman </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'm with you there. And color matching it would be great.
Mike

Jim Bob · 04-03-2007, 03:07 PM

someone asked about pictures of the seam inspection. I posted pictures of the job I did on my coach on this site. at the top of the page click on the link that says "photos" when the page opens, in the search box type "eternabond" when that opens you will see one small picture on the left side of the page of the roof inspection. click on that picture and then you can scroll left through all the pictures of the process I followed. I hope this will help.