Engine Battery Drain on F53

[powercat_ras]

The chassis battery drawing .3 amps with the RV door closed and the key out of the ignition sounds about right.

One idea is if you store your unit outside you can buy a small solar panel made to keep car batteries from running down, that is about the size of a sun visor. That should be big enough to make up for the .3 amp drain. You can just lay it on the dash and let the sun shine on it thru the winshield. You do have to connect it right to the chassis battery though because the DC accessory outlet in the center dash console of your Winnebago connected to the chassis battery are all disconnected from the battery with the ignition key in the Off position.

The sources of that chassis battery draw are:

Engine Control Module has a 12 volt source that is always on

The dash radio has a 12 volt source that is always on

The step control board has a 12 volt source that is always on, so step can open even with the coach battery switch shut off.

You could also buy a simple 12 volt battery disconnect switch that mounts on the positive battery post that would cut off all loads from the chassis battery. This would prevent your step from operating , though.

[John Locke]

Originally Posted by powercat_ras

The sources of that chassis battery draw are:

Engine Control Module has a 12 volt source that is always on

The dash radio has a 12 volt source that is always on

The step control board has a 12 volt source that is always on, so step can open even with the coach battery switch shut off.

You could also buy a simple 12 volt battery disconnect switch that mounts on the positive battery post that would cut off all loads from the chassis battery. This would prevent your step from operating , though.

I think the solar cell option will eventually be the best solution for me, if I don't find anything else wrong with my RV. I am thinking of a medium sized solar array on the roof anyway, maybe a year from now, having about 3 panels, about 1000W, and two or three Battle Born Lithium batteries for house batteries.

I don't like the idea of disconnecting the chassis battery, as that would reset the clock in the radio all the time.

I think in the interim I'll get a manual switch for chassis battery to connect the house with the chassis battery when in storage The house charger will keep the chassis battery charged when connected. Since the battery compartment is under the steps, easy to access, flicking a HD switch is a simple solution for now.

Thanks for your help identifying possible power drain culprits. I doubt the radio pulls any significant power, just enough for the clock, but that should be minuscule. I'll confirm.

The ECM I'm not sure of. I wonder why that would need to pull any standby power if the motor is off. Good tip, I'll look into that.

The step sensing shouldn't take standby power, assuming it's designed right. If it was done with magnet switches (like window alarms use) and then use a relay for high power for the motor, that method wouldn't take any standby power at all, but I'm not sure how those steps are designed, so you may be right. I'll investigate that.

[powercat_ras]

I think your plan to put a connection between the positive posts of the chassis and coach batteries in line with an on/off switch is great and most cost effective and easy since you have a way to charge the coach battery.

I suggest you use an auto-reset circuit breaker to protect the wiring and switch from over-current damage. Personally I'd use a 20 amp automotive switch and 12 gauge wire with a stud mount thermal breaker - 20 amp. The auto-reset breakers are common in car and truck applications and cost well under $ 10, and available at most auto parts stores.

The prior advice I gave you about the small 15" x 4" dashboard solar panel for 12 volt charging was bad, I have one and I looked at it and it is only rated 0.1 amps output in full sun. That won't cut it for a 0.3 amp 24 hour load. I think at a minimum you would want to mount a 10 watt solar panel on the roof to maintain charge on the chassis battery . A lot of RV makers including Winnebago used to mount a 10 watt panel on the top of the AC shroud, and just connect it directly to the battery via a fuse sized to protect the wiring. With a 10 watt panel no solar charge controller is needed as it does not generate enough current to over-charge the battery.

[John Locke]

Originally Posted by powercat_ras

I think your plan to put a connection between the positive posts of the chassis and coach batteries in line with an on/off switch is great and most cost effective and easy since you have a way to charge the coach battery.

I suggest you use an auto-reset circuit breaker to protect the wiring and switch from over-current damage.

I agree, a breaker would be prudent, enough for charging. I found a nice 180A battery switch that's a good size and ergonomics for my mounting space in the step well. I found a 150A auto reset breaker for $20, that should work good. That would help if I were to have a dead chassis battery for other reasons (like my grand-daughter turning on a dash accessory when I'm not looking. It's happened). I could simply let the house charger do the charging, instead of pulling out the 10A charger.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

John Locke-

As mentioned in post #2, installing a Trik-L-Start or Amp-L-Start is the usual prescription for keeping the chassis battery charged, in the absence of a factory-installed solution. It's fully-automated; "no muss, no fuss."

[Sue46]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

John Locke-

As mentioned in post #2, installing a Trik-L-Start or Amp-L-Start is the usual prescription for keeping the chassis battery charged, in the absence of a factory-installed solution. It's fully-automated; "no muss, no fuss."

Our 2015 came with this, have you checked to see if you have one. I think it was documented in the Owners Manual, maybe not under these names.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

Neither the 2018 Vista 32YE Chassis Electrical Box Assembly Diagram (link here) nor the Battery Installation Diagram (link here) show a Trik-L-Start or Amp-L-Start. I failed to find mention in the Operator's Manual. That doesn't mean there isn't one, though.

Winnebago sold "LX" Vista models in 2018. Perhaps the "E" models have fewer features.

[John Locke]

Yeah, my 32YE doesn't have it. I understand what it is, as my 1999 Fleetwood had a similar unit. I would like the house battery charger to charge the chassis battery too, so it appears I'll have to add this in. The manual switch seems the more simply solution for that, having no solenoid to go bad over time.

My rig does have the momentary battery connection between house and chassis batteries for engine starting purposes only, using the standard momentary switch with solenoid.

I'm finding I'm adding in a lot of things to my Winnebago Vista that my 1999 Fleetwood Pace Arrow had stock, little things which we miss (I'll make a video on that someday). I've been pimping my ride for about a year now, a little at a time, things are progressing well. I think I'm almost done, however I still have to figure out why my motorized side view mirrors are loose, making side views of rear traffic jiggly and annoying. Does anyone else have that problem? Maybe I'll start a new thread for that issue.

[powercat_ras]

Yes before 2016 there were two equipment levels in the Vista line, the ones with the better equipment like the bi-directional Battery Isolation Manager and both chassis and coach battery disconnect solenoids became the Vista LX line in 2016. Now Vista LX is no more and some Vista LX models survived renamed Adventurer.

The ones with less equipment were in response to dealers pushing Winnebago to have some lower MSRP models that had similar prices to the bottom of the line Thor ACE class As.

I have a 2015 Vista 27N which became the Vista LX 27N with almost no changes in 2016.

[RoadRohrers]

A bit off topic, but battery related. My tow vehicle is a 2010 Honda CRV. I never had a problem with the battery run dow while towing for years. But batteries do wear out. This p replacement battery would die fairly quickly in the acc position needed for towing.
The Battery tested good. And No load could be detected. GRRRRR

Eventually I just got tired of it and bought a new battery. Problem solved.

I also have a 2017 Vista 32YE and do not have this problem (yet). But I too miss having a chassis disconnect switch.

But Winnebago isn’t what it was even 5 years ago. I expect more of this type of cost cutting. Shareholders are now who matter.

More off topic: Read a great article in the Seattle Times I think about how Boeing lost its previous culture and how this has led to 737 Max and other quality problems.

I also think Winnebago as well as USAA have both suffered from changes in culture. Just my sense

[Joepeas]

I had same problem with used 2013 Winnebago 37.5 ft. Adventurer. We live in northern Alberta, so when the batteries lost their charge they would freeze then some time split then had to replace batteries. For the Motorhome I bought a 80 watt. Solar panel with a voltage regulator and approximate 10 ft. Cables with alligator clips and I just open the front hatch and hook it up to a positive stud mounted above the rab support and ground to a steel structure or brake assembly. We get a lot of snow so not sure if it would charge enough in the winter so I just position it leaning slightly facing the sun. Also use it on other vehicle in our yard and no more problems. I also use it for dry camping on the Rv batteries. Seldom have to use our generator. Also replace all light bulbs with Led. Works great.

[Vandave]

Mine does the me thing. 2017, elr hs no clue why

[Upinsmoke]

Interesting thread. Our 2015 Sunstar has two rocker switches by the door, one for chassis and the other for coach. I believe it also has the referenced BIM but not sure.

My assumption, to this point, was that when they were turned off, it stopped the voltage from leaving the respective batteries so that if there were any seeping type of voltage, it wouldn't be an issue. I've never had an issue except of the rare occasion I've forgotten to turn the switches.

So, is this not the case ? Am I missing something with the intent of these switches?
Thanks, great conversation and information!

[RTrider]

I was told when we picked up our 2014 Adventurer that I always have to turn off the disconnect switch by the door when "dry storing" (I realize you don't have one) because the engine computer will put a very small drain on the battery. When I accidently left the switch on and didn't drive the unit for 3 to 4 weeks, the battery was so dead the steps wouldn't even come out. When I turn the switch off, I don't have that issue. I have gone as much as 2 months and the battery would still start the engine. I think you need to add a battery disconnect or if you usually plug the unit to shore power, add one of the isolating chargers to charge the chassis battery from the coach battery circuit. I had to add one of those on my '07 Suncruiser. It worked great.

[jimkamery]

John:

Please let us know what you find when you do your testing. When I bought my Outlook 32 I did not have this problem, but it started doing exactly the same as yours about 6 months ago. I replaced the battery with a new one, and it still goes under 11V in 3 to 4 weeks. I just haven't had time to troubleshoot mine!

[f53Challenge]

John, Not sure if this has been mentioned. With everything off, you might disconnect your negative cable from the coach battery and temporarily connect an amp meter between the battery and cable. Then remove one chassis fuse at a time to see what circuit is causing the draw. Please let us know what you find.

[FishBear]

We have a 2019 32YE... but we also had a 2006 Hurricane with the same issue so we knew what to do... this...

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...2201_200332201

Just route it into battery compartment and hook it up to Chassis batt. Plug it in and done. Monitor water levels in batt and you should have no problems

[rhodesaz]

Last winter we had our Sunstar Sport plugged in to a 30 amp outlet. But every month when I went out to start it up for a little while, It cranked really slow. The engine/chassis battery acted like it was going bad. After a little investigation, I learned the "heated mirror" switch had gotten turn on. Therefore draining the battery. I've now labeled on/off so that never happens again.

[Morich]

Newer have to have lots different power setups as small things are always running. Things we don't even think about are there and slowly draining battery. One is the little clickers to unlock doors. The PCM in the vehicle has to have power for it to pick up the signal. When wiring our toad, I found that there is more than one supply for power to the radio. When we stup to tow, the radio lights are off, the clock and calendar are down and have to be reset but the preset stations are permanent memory.
Just not a simple thing any more!
When stored, I use a simple battery disconnect and still add a very small charger to maintain the battery as I want it to last as long as possible and batteries do last much longer if properly charged while stored.

[zigmono]

Are your retracting steps being used? Many run off the chassis battery, not the house battery.