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Old 08-31-2009, 10:50 AM   #1
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Driving and Camping in Cold Weather

We have a 2009 Winnebago Vectra and are planning on doing some camping up North this winter. We don't expect severe freezing weather but would appreciate any tips concerning special preparations of the rig before we get started. Any ideas and recommendations from those of you who have driven and camped in the winter weather would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 08-31-2009, 04:04 PM   #2
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Check out this thread ... (it is 2 pages long) ... it has some good hints for you ...

Winter travel in an RV


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Old 08-31-2009, 06:34 PM   #3
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We have camped in -18 weather, no problems. when driving we us our motor-aid heat in the rear. Always toasty at the camp site. We keep a couple of 1500-watt electric heaters to help with propane consumption. Note that you have to run your regular furnace at about 32 or so to keep your holding tanks warm. One thing to remember is that if the temps are low don't leave your dump hose or water hose hooked up. Use your own water. As for driving, No mater what the roads look like leave lots of stopping distance. We normally give ourselves double what we would in the summer months. Also drive a bit slower as our gas millage is a bit lower as the temps drop.
Overall have fun, you can go to most places in North America 12 months a year.
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Old 08-31-2009, 07:13 PM   #4
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The Motoraid heaters are great for keeping comfy in minus degree weather we have found those small ceramic heaters (1500 watt) are worth their weight in gold on a below 0 degree night plus they save propane. we carry 2 of them in our 37ft Adventurer
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:13 AM   #5
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Ditto the electric heaters and several well placed 100 watt trouble lights placed in the basement (near water lines) and the utility bay allows the exclusive use of electric heaters on borderline below freezing nights and travel.

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Old 09-01-2009, 06:36 PM   #6
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Camping in the cold

I'm not a real experienced cold camper, but last fall we were caught in some cold weather in Bridgeport, Ca.
For three days we had snow them some melting then hard freezing at 9 degrees.
I brought our hoses in, but I ran the space heaters and did not use the forced air.
Went to use the pump, no sound, frozen, started forced air heat. Every thing thawed out the next moring with a space heater running in the water inlet compartment.
Every thing seem ok, but just had to replace my pump that started to run slowly and not shutting off. During the break down inspection of the pump found a plastic plate inside with cracks that I think happened that cold night.
I'm in the process of running some rope lights into that compartment for future use.
Good luck.

RAB
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:08 PM   #7
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Here are some winter camping tips following threads:
Winter camping

Winter camping by RV Dude

Winter Driving Tips

As you can see many of us do use our Motor Homes in most any weather.
Enjoy and welcome to the forum.
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:18 PM   #8
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One thing not mentioned is MOISTURE control. An RV is a rather confined space an normal day to day routines release a lot of moisture into the air. Cooking, bathing showering and even breathing you release a lot of moisture. The air in the trailer will reach a point that the dewpoint of the air is above the temperature of the window frames and you will start to get condensation.

To control this, you will need to keep a certain amount of vents open and run the vent fan when bathing or cooling. You will probably need to keep a vent open a slight amount in the sleeping area to control the moisture content of the air.

Have fun

Ken
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Old 09-02-2009, 04:58 AM   #9
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Looks like some great information already. I'd add just one more thing. Three little words... HEATED MATTRESS PAD! We bought one at Walmart (about $75 for a queen). Makes all the difference in the world. Just turn that puppy on 15 minutes before you climb in bed and life is good. Note: Just don't accidentally reverse the controls, my wife just about toasted me trying to warm up her side of the bed!
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Old 09-02-2009, 11:58 AM   #10
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Ditto the heated mattress pad. It goes in the MH Sept 1st. My DW would not leave home without it.
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Old 09-02-2009, 12:30 PM   #11
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Rust Control

Not mentioned above, but rust control can be a very very serious problem, depending if the states allow salt on the roads. If they do have salt to thaw snow and/or ice, be sure to keep 100% of your underbody clean, as soon as you can.

I spent over 60 hours using an electric wheel wire brush on all my basement frames to clean off rust then prime and undercoat.

I had to replace both transmission cooling lines, and just last week, I needed major work on front leaf springs because of rust.

And there is still more there. I'd like to get it sand blasted, primed and undercoated to stop the mess.

Also, both my mufflers are ruined. I have patch stuff on them to see if I can stretch them one more year, but eventually they will also need replacing.

It has been a very expensive lesson in not keeping care of underside of coach!!
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Old 09-02-2009, 06:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Party Barge View Post
I'm not a real experienced cold camper, but last fall we were caught in some cold weather in Bridgeport, Ca.
For three days we had snow them some melting then hard freezing at 9 degrees.
I brought our hoses in, but I ran the space heaters and did not use the forced air.
Went to use the pump, no sound, frozen, started forced air heat. Every thing thawed out the next moring with a space heater running in the water inlet compartment.
Every thing seem ok, but just had to replace my pump that started to run slowly and not shutting off. During the break down inspection of the pump found a plastic plate inside with cracks that I think happened that cold night.
I'm in the process of running some rope lights into that compartment for future use.
Good luck.

RAB
Will the rope lights provide enough heat to be useful?
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Old 09-02-2009, 07:34 PM   #13
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Rope lights

Rope lights do create some heat, they are flexible, do not break and can take some moisture (compartment wash outs).
I have not installed them yet. but have used them when working in attics for light and they due produce heat and are easy to loop and run around
obstructions.
Again, I plan on using them when we are in the near freezing temps and if we are in the sub freezing temps, we plan to use the forced air more.

On the bright side I can fire the lights up to impress my neighbors while dumping just showing off my clean coach bay.

RAB
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Old 09-03-2009, 02:24 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by becks View Post
Ditto the heated mattress pad. It goes in the MH Sept 1st. My DW would not leave home without it.
i got my 12v queen dual control mattress pad from backwoods solar for about $100 2 years ago. it is serving us well.
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Old 09-23-2009, 03:43 AM   #15
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We use an eva-dry Petite Dehumidifier model EDV1100 to help with condensation. Works great, makes a huge difference. We also put about 4 inches of gravel under our coach - we are full timers - to help with condensation. We always run the coach heaters to at least 50 degrees to keep the basement warm. There are a couple heater outlets to the basement but they are not huge so I feel better with the higher temp. I would like to put a couple larger dehumidifiers I used to use in our boat down in the basement but there are no electrical outlets down there. A small heater down in holding tank area and water cabinet would be nice but no outlets their either. Have not give much thought to it yet.
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Old 09-24-2009, 01:52 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcaravelli View Post
We use an eva-dry Petite Dehumidifier model EDV1100 to help with condensation. Works great, makes a huge difference. We also put about 4 inches of gravel under our coach - we are full timers - to help with condensation. We always run the coach heaters to at least 50 degrees to keep the basement warm. There are a couple heater outlets to the basement but they are not huge so I feel better with the higher temp. I would like to put a couple larger dehumidifiers I used to use in our boat down in the basement but there are no electrical outlets down there. A small heater down in holding tank area and water cabinet would be nice but no outlets their either. Have not give much thought to it yet.
we used a combination of 3 cube heaters set on 750w with thermostats for heat while plugged in last winter. we try to keep the inside temp to about 70 deg f. when not plugged in, we used the propane furnace. my dw made insulated covers for the inside of the windshields. the coldest it got where we were in washington was about 15 deg f.

i installed 4 inside-outside temperature gauges in the basement water compartments to monitor the temperatures.

i found that the fwd water tank compartment that also houses the pump and the water heater tank did not require any supplemental heat. we used the ac water heater when plugged in and propane when not plugged in. while under way, the motor aid water heater heat exchanger and propane furnace kept the compartment warm.
in the middle main water tank compartment i used one 100w trouble light when plugged in. the propane furnace kept this compartment above freezing when not plugged in.
in the aft water service compartment where there is access to the gray and black tanks, i used another 100w trouble light when plugged in. the propane furnace kept this compartment above freezing when not plugged in.
i used foam insulation to plug seams and holes in the electrical compartment which also has access to the black and gray tanks.
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