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Old 08-21-2007, 10:02 AM   #1
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I need to replace the shade by my breakfast booth. I have the replacement, but in looking at removing the old one I can't see how to do it. Of course the replacment has no instructions. It seems to get it off you have to remove the decorative valance that covers it, which I didn't want to do. Can anyone help me on this ?
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Old 08-21-2007, 10:02 AM   #2
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I need to replace the shade by my breakfast booth. I have the replacement, but in looking at removing the old one I can't see how to do it. Of course the replacment has no instructions. It seems to get it off you have to remove the decorative valance that covers it, which I didn't want to do. Can anyone help me on this ?
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Old 08-21-2007, 10:31 AM   #3
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Most have to be removed by first removing the valance. You will need a long screw driver and a flash light to look up into the valence to see the screws. They are usually attached to a couple of angle brackets.

Once the valence is down you should be able to see the screws that attach the blinds.

Ken
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Old 08-21-2007, 11:37 AM   #4
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Larry ...

I had to remove the day/night shade on the rear window of my '99 Adventurer ... (over the bed)

I was able to remove that shade by laying on my back on the bed and removing 2 (maybe it was 3) screws that were driven through the top of the shade into the (top of) valance ...

I had to let the shade down before I could see the screws ... I remember it was sort of a guggling act ... letting the shade down ... having my wife hold the bottom and the middle rail out of the way so that I could get at the screws ...

But I was able to do it without removing the valance ....
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Old 08-21-2007, 11:58 AM   #5
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Larry, you can remove the shades without removing the valences, (at least I have never had to), by using the aforementioned long screwdriver. The holes may be hard to see, as they can get lost on the material, but they are there, on the GLASS side of the blind. After the screws are removed, you then must unclip the unit to remove it. If you form your hand into a "C", you will see what the clip looks like. Pry one side back, gently, and the blind will drop free. I have replaced every one of mine. Once replaced, no further trouble.. Grommetts installed backwards cut the strings...rgr...
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Old 08-21-2007, 12:28 PM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rgrstndgby:
Larry, you can remove the shades without removing the valences, (at least I have never had to), by using the aforementioned long screwdriver. The holes may be hard to see, as they can get lost on the material, but they are there, on the GLASS side of the blind. After the screws are removed, you then must unclip the unit to remove it. If you form your hand into a "C", you will see what the clip looks like. Pry one side back, gently, and the blind will drop free. I have replaced every one of mine. Once replaced, no further trouble.. Grommetts installed backwards cut the strings...rgr... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Yup - he's got it right! Using a long driver Phillips bit in your cordless drill (or heaven forbid a manual screwdriver), unscrew the two screws in the head of the blind. Now the clip is the only thing holding the blind up. Look directly underneath the blind (I know - a contortionist trick) and you will see the clip holding the blind. Release the long leg of the clip (prying with a flat-bladed screwdriver or even your finger would work) and the blind will be released.
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Old 08-21-2007, 12:45 PM   #7
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[John said......quote]Using a long driver Phillips bit in your cordless drill[/quote]

Yea, they are a great help, but be very careful. The chuck will scuff up your new blind if you aren't very careful.btw, my new blinds came bundled with rubberbands, and I left those attached till I had them installed.
Kept stuff out of the way.....rgr...
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Old 08-22-2007, 05:08 AM   #8
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Larry, are you replacing the blind because it is worn out, or are the cords broken? If it is the cords they can be replaced easily and CHEAP. There are plenty of instructions here on the site to do the repair.

On another note, a good way to see what you are doing up under that valance with a minimal amount of twisting and turning is to have a helper with a hand held mirror and a flashlight. Have the helper hold the mirror to angle up so you can see behind the blind with out bending over. The flashlight serves to make the clips much easier to see. This makes seeing and working up under that tight space WAY easier.

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Old 08-22-2007, 06:14 AM   #9
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I have had to restring three of mine. Like the others I had three screws holding them up but I had no clips on mine.
I did have to buy a longer screw driver to be able to get enough traction (yup, I was using a dreaded manual screw driver )
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Old 08-22-2007, 06:30 AM   #10
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Just say "NO" to the manual screw driver. Particularly the metric flat blade type.
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Old 08-22-2007, 06:22 PM   #11
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Thanks ! everyone for the very helpful information. I should be able to remove and replace the shade. For SARGEW - I'm replacing the shades because the cord holes ripped out in a couple places. Think the grandkids might have helped on that, but grandma says, not those little angels.
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Old 08-27-2007, 07:31 AM   #12
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Just removed the fwd shade in living room slide out (just aft of driver seat). Only held up by two wood screws, one at each end. No clips, as some of my other shades have. Don't ask why. Anyway, it took about two minutes. The cords broke. Again.

Now the challenge is to restring. This will be my first attempt. Hold your ears.

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Old 08-27-2007, 10:26 AM   #13
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I have re-strung several, some of them twice because I didn't debur ALL the holes.

I found it easiest to take them completely apart and re-assemble them.
It really doesn't take too long if you do that.

I found trying to fish strings is not the best way to do it.
You have two screws, so this won't apply to you but in case someone with three screws reads this - mine have three screws holding them up and no clips. I found that it was easiest to put the middle screw in first and then the other two.

The good news is that it has been about two years since my last re-stringings and there is no signs of wear.

Good luck!!
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Old 08-27-2007, 01:18 PM   #14
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">...(snip)..I didn't debur ALL the holes. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Clay:

Looks like I have white plastic grommets in the string holes. I've not yet checked to see if they are installed properly, or if any are missing. Are there more string holes without grommets? Or were your grommets missing?

BTW, this is Winny's site for restringing instructions, with specs for the cord. Does not say however, how much cord is needed for a 60" shade.

Winny Shade Restring (see 2006-09)

I'm off to WalMart or Ace tomorrow in search of cord.

Thudman
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:24 PM   #15
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Thudman,

I've switched to 30# monofilament fishing line instead of cord. When holes are deburred the shade works smooth as silk.

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Old 08-28-2007, 04:12 AM   #16
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Like other folks have said, it is not difficult to restring the shades. Lay them out on a large flat surface, like your dining room table. Make sure to debur the holes where the nylon guides are. That is what usually takes out the cords in the first place. After restringing, make sure to keep gentle tension on the strings before installing, to keep the nylon guides in place.
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Old 08-28-2007, 06:37 AM   #17
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Thudman:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">...(snip)..I didn't debur ALL the holes. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Clay:

Looks like I have white plastic grommets in the string holes. I've not yet checked to see if they are installed properly, or if any are missing. Are there more string holes without grommets? Or were your grommets missing?

BTW, this is Winny's site for restringing instructions, with specs for the cord. Does not say however, how much cord is needed for a 60" shade.

Winny Shade Restring (see 2006-09)

I'm off to WalMart or Ace tomorrow in search of cord.

Thudman </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The grommets were there but there was enough drill bur around some of the holes to touch the cord. Also some of the holes in the plastic strips needed to be debured.

I found the cord at a JoAnns fabric store. I think it's a national chain.
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Old 08-28-2007, 02:04 PM   #18
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Did the restring today & used 30 lb monofilament line. Now I understand the need to debur; and I did. Biggest hassle was reinstalling by myself: Holding the top rod up & using a screwdriver (elec!!!) was---interesting. Hope no one heard my comments.

It's making a strange sound, going up & down. I hope none of the grommets came loose. If the monofilament breaks, I'll try using regular cord, from some craft shop. The mono is hard to work with. Took half a day; but next shade, I'll do it for better time; and hopefully not as many "comments". I did not use my chainsaw.

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Old 08-29-2007, 12:57 PM   #19
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We bought replacement string from www.fixmyblinds.com. We bought string that was one size larger than the original string. As others have said deburring the holes should be done. Fixmyblinds also has comprehensive stringing instructions. We had a rash of broken strings when the coach was just over a year old. None of the larger replacement strings have broken in the two years since.
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Old 08-29-2007, 01:51 PM   #20
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">We bought string that was one size larger than the original string. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

What was the new (or old) size? How long was the cord you ordered? Thx for the website.

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